delta table saw blade guard

[Arthur]

Hi all
I am running a Delta Platinum contractor table saw (10inch) and want to upgrade the Blade guard that is standard to a "Suva type" guard and riving knife.

Has anybody got any suggestions about what is available for these machines and where they are available (I don't want to spend a weeks pay on one)

Regards
Arthur A

[Wayne Davy]

Arthur,

I made my own Overhead Guard after seeing how much the Suva ones were.
You can see it on my web site (http://members.optusnet.com.au/waynedavy/index.html) - go to Workshop then click on Tablesaw and scroll down. I also made a replacement splitter. You can get a different Splitter for the delta saws in the USA but they are quite expensive (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/sim-explorer/explore-items/-/B00002234A/0/101/1/none/purchase/ref%3Dpd%5Fsxp%5Fr0/103-8988556-8316634).

There is a thread (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=6700&highlight=Tablesaw+Overhead+Guard)on my guard on the forum - might answer most questions you have.

Heres a couple of links I used for inspiration:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml
http://garageshop.org/newsite_008.htm
http://www.craftsman-furniture.com/Guard.html
http://www.geocities.com/hmcnicholl/bladeguard

btw: If you want to buy one, try Carbatec (http://svc010.bne011i.server-web.com/catalogue/carbatec2/cache/header-1139public__0-0.html?cache=no) (bit expensive at $275 though).

Cheers,

[Sturdee]

Thanks Wayne for the info.

I too am currently looking at making an overhead guard for the TS. I had already checked some of the websites but the extra ones are good.

I was thinking of putting the height adjustment arm at the front rather than at the back for ease of use. Any comments on this please.

BTW l like your splitter as well.


Peter.

[Harry72]

I was thinking of making the guard like Wayne has but instead of using a arms to hold it supported off the saw, actually hanging/solid mount it off the shed roof(my saw is in a perminate spot)and have it adjust simply straight up and down, the only problem Im thinking is the adjustment height needs to be of about 1m of movement to allow for things like cutting corner splines in boxes. At 1m of adjustment it'll be hard to reach the height clamp/screw, measure up 1m from the top of a table saw its pretty high spot to reach!
Any ideas?

[Wayne Davy]

Sturdee,

The arm on the back is a counter balance and I dont touch it to adjust the height. I just undo the knob a touch and move the actual guard up/down as required then retighten the knob. (takes longer to type it than do it).

re Splitter - thanks, it works very well too.

[Wayne Davy]

Harry,

Check the first link I posted above (http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml), his is mounted from the ceiling. You still want to go for the cantilever design I feel - makes adjustment way easier. That was the easiest part to make btw.

I see your point about needing to remove the guard for some operations and mine is removable from the overhead arm easily (another nut/Knob). I guess you could try and mount the support arm to a large hinge on the ceiling with some kind of locking arrangement (thinking about how folding box lids supports work). Hmmm.. Not too sure.

[Harry72]

What if I used 4" thick wall PVC as the upright member, thus killing two birds with one stone?

[Wayne Davy]

Nice idea Harry, just not too sure how rigid it will be and also how you are going to connect the Hood to the PVC securely.

[Harry72]

To join the pipe to the hood I'll flare the end with the heat gun into a flange like I did for my DC blastgates the bolt it on with some silicon for a good measure.
In your opinion what position would it be better to join the "drop tube"(we'll call it) towards the front of the guard/hood middle or rear for better extraction?
What sort of increments/indexing for height adjustment would we need for safe use every 5-10mm or should I make it constantly varible height.
Because Im thinking a indexed locking rail and outer sliding casing using some of the spring loaded push buttons from an old set of crutches or something like.

[Wayne Davy]

Harry,

I think you have all the answers in your head - just need to talk about them ;)

re: Indexed or fully variable. I guess indexed for the way you are going with the pipe would be good. So long as you have a lot of close 'indexes' down low is my only thought. The extraction only works well if the hood is quite close to the timber being cut.

I take it you are going to have a hinge of some type at the top with a bit of Flex connecting the Down/Support pipe to an overhead 4"/6" pipe so that you can move it up out of the way for certain cuts.

I'm thinking this is going to work quite well for you. I went with mine attached to the saw only because I move the saw around due to lack of space. For you this is probably ideal. Also, the suction is going to be great as not much Flex will be involved.

Go for it and post up some pics.

[Wayne Davy]

Harry,

I forgot to answer your question about the position of the pipe to the hood.

My feeling is in the centre for best pickup but a bit toward the back is probably not a bad thing as it will improve your vision of the blade/cut. Mine it a bit forward but this is only because it was the only place to put it with the Hood connection support at the rear. I would have like it back further but it was not possible.

[Harry72]

Yes was thinking of a hinge at the top to move it out the way when needed, I have a pair oven door spring loaded hinges hopefully they'll hold the weight when in the raised position. The oven hinges have a stop on them and only go so far and they'll hold the weight of a child standing on them(own expirances).
Just on the flexi hose, I've never had any so i dont know what its like... can it take being twisted being fixed at each end, as in when I swing the hood out of the way the flex will need to twist/rotate about 90°?

"I think you have all the answers in your head - just need to talk about them"
Aussie ingenuity at work... watch this space!