Woodcut hollowing tool

[Oldgreybeard]

A couple of years ago, I was given some turning tools from a deceased estate - including one of the first model of the Woodcut hollowing tools which used the shepid loop cutter. The set includes the handle,bent and goose neck shafts but not the straight shaft.
To say that I have a love / hate relationship with these tools is probably an understatement. My efforts with the bent shaft have been mildly successful, but with the goose neck tool I am running at about a 100% failure rate.
Is there anyone in Melbourne who has mastered these tools and who would be prepared to give me a lesson. I have just bought 2 new cutters (cost $50 from Woodcut), but while this improved the results with the bent shaft, I still find I spend more time clearing the chips jammed in the cutter than actually turning. I will happily come to your place if that is your preference.

Any advice would also be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Bob (Oldgreybeard)

[Roger C]

Bob I have just looked on the web and if your cutter also has an adjustable cover over the business end try putting a washer made from the material a soda can is made from between the two pieces and set the opening a little smaller, hope this makes sense

[RETIRED]

Bob. You can bring them and a blank down here and we can have a play if you like.

[Oldgreybeard]

Bob. You can bring them and a blank down here and we can have a play if you like.

Thank you for the offer which I gladly accept. Please pm me with a contact number and I will call you to arrange a suitable time.

Regards
Bob

[Oldgreybeard]

Bob I have just looked on the web and if your cutter also has an adjustable cover over the business end try putting a washer made from the material a soda can is made from between the two pieces and set the opening a little smaller, hope this makes sense
Thanks Roger, a guy at carbatec suggested something similar (a fibre washer from memory) when I first got the tool. Probably my technique, but it had no positive effect.
Bob

[brendan stemp]

One tip that may be of some help with the goose neck is to make sure you dont support the tool on the tool rest with any of the bent section of the goose neck. Therefore, you need to have the tool rest a little further away from your work than is normal. In other words, the part of the tool that is being supported on the tool rest is in line with the cutter head. If you are supporting the tool on the goose neck curve then the cutter head is out of line with the cutter head and you will get uncontrollable torque forces. Maybe this is your problem given you are not having problems with the other parts of the tool. Its a great tool and you have scored well acquiring it.

[Oldgreybeard]

One tip that may be of some help with the goose neck is to make sure you dont support the tool on the tool rest with any of the bent section of the goose neck. Therefore, you need to have the tool rest a little further away from your work than is normal. In other words, the part of the tool that is being supported on the tool rest is in line with the cutter head. If you are supporting the tool on the goose neck curve then the cutter head is out of line with the cutter head and you will get uncontrollable torque forces. Maybe this is your problem given you are not having problems with the other parts of the tool. Its a great tool and you have scored well acquiring it.

Thanks Brendan,
in part you are correct, I was trying to support the tool with the goose neck on the support. Changing that this morning has improved things, but i still go between producing fine saw dust or giouges!! nothing in between. However i am confident that will find the faults in my technique very quickly and get me on the right track.

All the practice in the world will not improve you if your technique is wrong to start with, so I do appreciate the help that is being offered.
Bob

[Jim Carroll]

One of the failings with the shepid cutter is the gap between the cutter edge and the brass cover.

It made for it to be hard to control. The main way to use is to rub on the brass cover and roll the tool into the cut.

The main tool to use is the slight bend as the full bend is only really needed for the undercut on your form.

As indicated make sure the tool is on the toolrest with full support on the straight part of the tool.

Dont try to hold like a traditional tool use your arm to support the tool, this will absorb a lot of the jarring that occurs and gives you better feedback.

Dont worry about the cutter filling just push a bit harder and they will self feed.

If you are turning short fibrous material this can also create problems.

Make sure you keep the cutter edge sharp with your diamond lap.

[Oldgreybeard]

Many thanks to and Neil for thier tuition this morning. As we all suspected there were a few problems with my technique / setup. Reflecting on the advice given, I can summarise my faults as follows:
1. Lathe speed too high
2. Tool support too low
3. Tool support too close to work piece
4. Gap between blade and cover too small
5. Tool approach angle incorrect
6. Probably some others which will surface with more practice
:C:o
On the positive side, I was holding the tool in the right hand :U:U

Essentially, I was attempting to use the tool in the same manner as I would use a bowl gouge - wrong! I am now looking forward to coming to grips with this tool.
Thanks to all who contibuted to the thread.
Bob

[rsser]

Good learning there.

IME that type of rig has a sweet spot. Maybe 2-3 mm of cutter edge all other things equal.