Thread for Workshop Jacks

[electrosteam]

I need to move some machine tools (mills, lathes etc) on a flat concrete floor using timber beams and pipe rollers.
This system works well but the confined space means steering is difficult.
My solution is to use temporary jacks to support the machine while the beams and rollers are re-positioned.

For a weight of 250 kg, what thread should I use for low-height manual screw jacks ?
Prefer metric and intend the jacks to have a long life, both for machine moving and general purposes.
I was thinking M16.

John.

[welder]

I think M16 would work thats what I used for the adjustable feet on my lathe.

[scottyd]

Metric V threads would probably wear pretty quick, I would go for something a bit more suited to high load applications, like a trapezoidal / acme / butress sort of affair. A grub screw in the side to prevent it from falling down at inopportune times and Rob is your mum's sister's nephew. Id probably go bigger too to make it more useful for other jobs, at least 20mm major diameter, even bigger if youre picturing using it for a bit of height.

[Oldneweng]

I have moved a number of lathes with the pipe roller system up to 1.5 tonnes. I even helped move one up a ramp in to the very old timber floored house, along the passage, across the large living room out the double sliding doors and up another ramp into a truck. This was the lathe owned by Wilf Manning. All I have ever done was to use a crowbar and block to lift the lathe for positioning.

Do you know to position the pipe on an angle to get the machine to turn corners? With experience you just put the pipe in front at the right angle and make adjustments with a big hammer on the ends if required.

Dean

[tinkera]

Hi electrostream, what Dean said, with a bit of practice banging the rollers around it is possible to turn machines almost in their own length. Hi scottyd, not sure about the relationships, Rob would be your mothers brother or sisters husband, a nephew would make Bob you cousin. Let me know if I've screwed up. All have a Merry Xmas.
tinkera

[electrosteam]

The levelling screws on my machine tools are all about 19 mm with a V thread, weights in the 400 - 700 kg range, and these are designed to withstand continuous operation with the usual vibration etc.
The proposed jacks will only ever be used for a temporary application, about 50/75 mm high with a jacking height rise of about 25 mm, so fancy thread shape may not be warranted.
The technique for slight steering adjustment of the beams and rollers is well practiced as described, but I now need 90 degrees on the spot requiring a complete re-arrangement of the beams and rollers, hence the idea of introducing jacks.
I think M16 jacks are worth pursuing, I can always make some bigger ones later if needed.
John.

[Ropetangler]

Metric V threads would probably wear pretty quick, I would go for something a bit more suited to high load applications, like a trapezoidal / acme / butress sort of affair. A grub screw in the side to prevent it from falling down at inopportune times and Rob is your mum's sister's nephew. Id probably go bigger too to make it more useful for other jobs, at least 20mm major diameter, even bigger if youre picturing using it for a bit of height.

No doubt about it a buttress /acme thread would be stronger, and 20mm better suited to higher lifts and stronger than a 16 mm thread too, but as the OP said tat he wanted to only raise a small amount, and bearing in mind the much easier to find a metric 60 degree v form thread than getting the alternative thread and nuts to suit, I would go with the M16 as he first mentioned. I assume that these jacks are only getting occasional use, so for weights of less than 1000Kg I think it would be fine. For the bolts you could use high tensile or mild steel all thread bar, cut to length and weld a nut on one end for adjustment. The nuts could be made with some mild steel round bar, drilled and tapped m16. If you make them about 30 or 40 mm long, there will be very little load on the thread IMO, and they will last a long time. If you just want to use plain hex nuts, rather than making longer nuts, I would use high tensile nuts and mild steel threaded stock if you are welding the nuts to a framework, so that any wear will most likely occur in the threaded bar which could be replaced easily as necessary.
As Dean mentioned, you may not need to use a jack if you have a helper to place the pipe rollers as you lift the machine with a bar and block for a fulcrum.
Just my opinion, which is worth just what you paid for it:U Good luck,
Rob.

[.RC.]

Can you explain what you mean by a "low profile jack"?

You want toe jacks for this sort of work... Lifting from the bottom with jacks I would not lift up the machine any more than necessary to fit the rollers under...

[PDW]

Can you explain what you mean by a "low profile jack"?

You want toe jacks for this sort of work... Lifting from the bottom with jacks I would not lift up the machine any more than necessary to fit the rollers under...

Agree completely. I have moved machines up to 2.5 tonnes using rollers and a big bar all by myself. Trick is to take things slowly and always think about what you're about to do.

That, and have your plan to get out of the way of a falling machine worked out in advance.

FWIW I've got a couple of low profile low lift hydraulic rams for a portapower that work well but you still need to get the initial lift off of the floor. I also made a toe jack but - ahem - lifting a 6 tonne steel boat on a welded cradle somewhat exceeded its capacity. It did work though - once.

PDW

[Dave J]

I made those lathe/mill leveling feet out of 16mm high tensile therad and they have workrd great.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[bwal74]

Hi John,

I'll add my two bob's worth as just this morning I managed to crush my middle finger. Take your time and get a mate to help you. And if you drop it don't try and catch it. On a more serious note would it be worth making a overhead gantry type crane? That's something I've always thought about making up (I've moved house 4 times in the last 4 years).

Ben

[Oldneweng]

I understand you need to pivot on the spot. Using 2 pipes set at angles you can get a very sharp turn. One pipe is angled the opposite way to the other. Prior to helping move Wilf Mannings lathe into the removalists van I also helped him to move the same lathe from a back bedroom down the same passage out the back door into his newly set up workshop area in the carport outside. It was a 4ft bed lathe and it just fitted across the angle of the passage/bedroom. He was the one who taught me to move machinery this way.

I have been making an attachment for a hydraulic jack that will lift a lathe. The idea came from Joe Hovels thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/finally-stopped-bleeding-177777/index3.html

Page 3, post number #40 if you want to avoid even more gory pictures involving fingers.

Dean

[electrosteam]

Dean,
Love the hydraulic jack idea - another item on the 'to do' list.

I made 6 jacks with M16 machine screws as the lift element.
I chucked each screw in the lathe and reduced the contact area surface to something that looked correct.

Photo shows the jacks under my Kent grinder with the timber beams and pipe rollers still in place.

I learned that even with reduced contact area, a rotating jack head can walk its way sideways.
The next jacks will have a non-rotating cap.
Also, very small increments are safest as operating each jack unloads its neighbours.

299364
John.

[Oldneweng]

Dean,
Love the hydraulic jack idea - another item on the 'to do' list.

I made 6 jacks with M16 machine screws as the lift element.
I chucked each screw in the lathe and reduced the contact area surface to something that looked correct.

Photo shows the jacks under my Kent grinder with the timber beams and pipe rollers still in place.

I learned that even with reduced contact area, a rotating jack head can walk its way sideways.
The next jacks will have a non-rotating cap.
Also, very small increments are safest as operating each jack unloads its neighbours.

299364
John.

John.

I probably took me 2 days all up to make both mark 1 and 2 jack adaptations. I have been using it to move concrete slabs yesterday and today. It has worked brilliantly. I then used pipe rollers with timber under the concrete as the bottom is very rough. Once the weight of the concrete was on the rollers I could push it along with my foot.

Dean