Where to buy a faceplate?

[corbs]

I'm in the market for a bigger faceplate but seem to be short on options. There's plenty of M30 versions available at reasonable prices but I need a 1 1/4 thread which reduces my options significantly.

I can get this (http://www.cws.au.com/shop/item/steel-faceplates) one from Carrolls but at $75 for the 150mm version before postage I'd like to investigate my options. I can get this (http://www.carbatec.com.au/carba-tec-steel-faceplates_c21715) one from Carbatec in a 150mm version with the correct thread at $37 which is a better price but given recent feedback I haven't looked any further there yet.

Has anyone else got other sources for faceplates (or rings) which will are available in a 1 1/4 thread?


Corbs

[NeilS]

VERMEC Faceplates (http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/faceplates.pdf)

[dai sensei]

Have you considered Faceplate Rings for your chuck? Much cheaper than faceplates, see http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/faceplate_rings.pdf or Teknatool® Faceplate Rings : CARBA-TEC (http://www.carbatec.com.au/teknatool-faceplate-rings_c19362)

[corbs]

Thanks Neil, still going to be over $80 for a 150mm ring and insert plus postage though. After seeing the M30 versions at around $30 I was thinking they'd all be in a similar price range. Guess I'm going to be paying more than I thought to safely spin up big chunks of wood :-

DS, I was aware of the rings but wasn't sure how big they would hold. I want to have the ability to turn 400mm+ safely. I know I was specifically asking about 150mm plates but I'm probably going to be buying bigger. 150mm seemed to be a standard size so used that for comparison.

On a side note, is there a rule for faceplate size to wood size?

Edit:
Two replies, both from Neils :)

[Osbojo]

Pop's Shed would send one up I should think.
Face Plates - Woodturning Tools and Timber, Woodturner Accessories, Woodcarver Supplies, Woodturning Equipment (http://www.popsshed.com.au/Product_List.aspx?cid=8&scid=146)

[corbs]

Pop's Shed would send one up I should think.
Face Plates - Woodturning Tools and Timber, Woodturner Accessories, Woodcarver Supplies, Woodturning Equipment (http://www.popsshed.com.au/Product_List.aspx?cid=8&scid=146)

Unless I'm missing something they don't come in a 1 1/4 thread.

Thanks for the suggestions so far team :2tsup:

[Mobyturns]

VERMEC Faceplates (http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/faceplates.pdf)



I have a range of them. They are well made take the Vicmarc chuck inserts from memory so no additional cost for inserts if you already have VM120 chuck inserts.

[corbs]

Thanks for that Moby, I have a VM120 and a Gary Pye generic chuck which I use as my general purpose chucks and a VM90 set up with bowl jaws on it. The rings are an option but I don't want to be restricted to the size of wood I can mount.

[NeilS]

I was aware of the rings but wasn't sure how big they would hold. I want to have the ability to turn 400mm+ safely. I know I was specifically asking about 150mm plates but I'm probably going to be buying bigger. 150mm seemed to be a standard size so used that for comparison.



Yes, a good suggestion from DS as it gets you around your thread size issue*, but it depends a bit on what chucks and jaws you have already. The Nova rings aren't cheap, while Vicmarc are bit better. However, you will need the right size jaws and chucks.

You will need a Nova Titan or SN Deluxe with 130mm dovetail jaws for their 130mm ring. I feel comfortable hanging a 400mm wet lumps of wood on that.

For larger/heavier lumps of wood the Vicmarc 150mm ring will take you above 400mm. If you don't have the 150mm dovetail jaws that would add to your cost. I would turn no more than 500mm on that. I go to a 200mm faceplate for 600mm, etc. Again, I'm thinking heavy wet or very dense woods. More tolerance with dry and lighter woods.

*edit: also noted Mobey's post about the Vicmarc insert for the Vermec option which would help on their cost.

[chuck1]

hi corbs, I got a face plate from trend timbers and they have inserts like the chucks the 150 diameter one cost me about 40, not sure if they still carry them?

[corbs]

Thanks for the info on sizing Neil. I like the 1:3 ratio for sizing and it gives me a much better idea of what size(s) I'm after :2tsup:

[torchwood]

Have you considered Faceplate Rings for your chuck? Much cheaper than faceplates, see http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/faceplate_rings.pdf or Teknatool® Faceplate Rings : CARBA-TEC (http://www.carbatec.com.au/teknatool-faceplate-rings_c19362)


Hi all, a slight correction to the Vermec Catalogue, as I just rang and ordered one.
Vermec Faceplate ring 100 mm for Vicmarc Chuck VM120 CHU563. Cost $27.00 plus $10.00 postage to Melbourne.
Merry Christmas one and all!!!

[Paul39]

Corbs,

If you have a mate in the RAN with access to a machine shop and welding, five 1 1/4 X your lathe thread nuts and some scrap 3/8 or 1/2 inch plate will make 5 face plates. If all the materials are provided, I don't think a little "government job" would hurt anyone.

I buy grade eight 1 X 8 tpi nuts here for about $1.00 each and got five 33mm nuts for my Hegner for $27.00 - special ordered.

[corbs]

Thanks Paul, I've got a few contacts who might be able to put something together for me and have the machinery capable of doing it but not in my local area.

[Oldgreybeard]

Corbs,

If you have a mate in the RAN with access to a machine shop and welding, five 1 1/4 X your lathe thread nuts and some scrap 3/8 or 1/2 inch plate will make 5 face plates. If all the materials are provided, I don't think a little "government job" would hurt anyone.

I buy grade eight 1 X 8 tpi nuts here for about $1.00 each and got five 33mm nuts for my Hegner for $27.00 - special ordered.

I just made up a couple of 75mm diameter faceplates - cost $5.50 each - 30 x 3.5mm nuts $3.00 each (Melbourne Bolt Co) and 75mm x 5 mm plates $2.50 each (Springvale Steel Supplies) I didn't charge for my 10 minutes time to weld up.

Bob

[nalmo]

1-1/4 x 8 TPI nuts are definitely hard to find - I've tried.
I bought a 1-1/4x8 spindle thread tap for under $30 and make my own wooden faceplates.
Available here (http://www.amazon.com/Beall-1-1-TPI-Spindle-Tap/dp/B0037M6M5U) as well as other suppliers.

[Willy Nelson]

Gents
I turn some reasonably large items, but I have NOT used (or done) my faceplates since I bought my first scroll chuck, a VM120.

So, why are we using faceplates?

Willy
Confused

But still in Jarrahland

[corbs]

Willy, how are you mounting your blanks for the initial turning on the VM120?

[Paul39]

Gents
I turn some reasonably large items, but I have NOT used (or done) my faceplates since I bought my first scroll chuck, a VM120.

So, why are we using faceplates?

Willy
Confused

But still in Jarrahland

Willy has a good point. Below is my method.

I have a big aluminum face plate that came with the Hegner. I have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood mounted on it which makes the face about 325mm in diameter.

I make a lot of bowls from logs I have picked up.. The bowl blank is usually a log split in half or cut in half with a chain saw and the corners cut off.

This is centered flat side to the face plate and the tail center brought up and made nice and tight. I rotate the blank by hand and continue to snug up the tail center.

I put the lathe on the slowest speed 800 rpm, stand to the side and turn on the lathe with my finger on the off button. If there is a reasonable amount of shaking and vibrating I face the part against the tail center flat and if that is going to be the bottom of the bowl start shaping the outside. If the figure is not right or a defect shows, I loosen the center and move the blank on the face plate and again bring up the tail center and check for vibration.

I rough out the side of the bowl and have a look. If it is what I want, I make a spigot or recess for the chuck to grab, leaving a nub under the tail center to keep the blank in place. I then finish cut, scrape, sand and put on a coat of finish. I use Tung Oil Finish rubbed on with a cloth, a 30 second dry with a hair dryer, a burnish with an old athletic sock, and remove from the lathe.

I cut off the nub with a bench chisel, replace the face plate with the chuck, and grab the blank by the recess or spigot. I have my chuck jaws numbered and I make a pencil mark on the blank at the middle of #1 jaw so that if I remove the blank I can replace it in the same place.

I turn the rim, hollow, scrape, sand and finish the inside. About half the time the outside is not tracking true after mounting in the chuck so I will recut the outside and finish.

I remove the bowl and put the big face plate back on. I cut a groove into which the rim will fit snugly and bring up a cup tail center so as not to make a hole with the pointed one. The bottom and spigot or recess are exposed. I usually cut down the recess a bit and make a shallow concave bottom leaving a nub as before. I scrape, sand, and finish; take the bowl off, then take the face plate off which by pure dumb luck sits nicely on the lathe bed.

With a spigot, I sometimes refine it into a foot, then make the hollow as above.

I put the bowl back on the faceplate held in the groove and chisel off the nub, and sand and finish that last bit on the bottom.

After a day or more I sign, number, and put type of wood on the bottom with fine point magic marker, let dry a couple of hours and put a coat of finish on the bottom.

Some people tape the bowl onto the grooved faceplate, some use extension jaw and soft plastic nubs.

Edit: I also have a piece of 2 X 8 inch timber that I turned a spigot on the back to grab in the chuck, and faced off the front and turned round. I glued a piece of sandpaper to that and use it instead of the faceplate and plywood for smaller things.

I have also made several 6 inch pieces with various grades of sandpaper that I use for finishing the bottoms of small things or cleaning up the ends of tool handles.

[NeilS]

So, why are we using faceplates?




A screw chuck works OK below 400mm diam.

Above that I find another method is needed.

Of the various methods that I have used, faceplates are the quickest for me.

On seasoned wood I only mount twice, from start to finish.

[Christos]

Willy, how are you mounting your blanks for the initial turning on the VM120?

I do not turn anything big as my lathe would not handle it. So I am going to guess as the method I used is between centers using drive and live centers.

But I also wait for Willy reply.

[Willy Nelson]

Willy, how are you mounting your blanks for the initial turning on the VM120?


Hello Corbs
Bear with me, bit a tome, and I KNOW I must address Safety as well. As you know, I turn a lot of stuff that is incess of 40cm and generally 10cm or more thick

Determine which side is to be the top of the blank.

Find centre of the blank that will be the top.

I fully open the jaws of the VM120, and place the blank against the open jaws. Bring up the tailstock to the centre mark. The blank is held by friction between the open jaws and the tail stock. (Disclaimer: If this does not suit you, or you are not comfortable with this method, don't do it). I use my ARbortec turboplaner to trim the blank until true.

Lastly, don all PPE, start the lathe on a slow speed (I only use 900 RPM) and stand out of the line of fire. I true the face and may true the round, just depends.

I then cut a rough spigot that suits the jaws of the Vicmarc. I then reverse the blank and cut a good spigot on the base. I still use the tail stock. Lastly, with a good spigot cut on the base, I commence shaping etc.

This a very quick method which maximises timber and is very quick. I may have had only 1 or 2 blanks come off the lather over very many years of turning. This method certainly helps speed the process, no chuck or faceplate changes, just reversal of the blank. Works brilliantly for me.

Years ago, used a similar method, but a disc, held in the jaws and a the disc was rubber coated. Pressed the blank against the disc with the tail stock and turned a spigot. probably safer than my other method, but one more step.
Hope this helps
Sincerely
Willy
Jarrahland


Edit: This post was edited as I didn't do a spell check (grrrr) or grammar check. Plus I added a bit, then I realised, I am now a GOLDEN Member. Sounds like something out of Austin Powers. Therefore, all junior members on these forums must now refer to me as Sir Willy, Golden Member of Jarrahland

[corbs]

Thanks for that, I have a Nova 1624-44 which has a 400mm swing. Your method should cover most of what I'd like to do but I prefer to turn bowls with the head turned outboard. I have a nice big lump of Oak waiting to be made round so will check the dimensions of it and if it's under 400mm I will have a crack. I'm pretty sure it's going to be bigger than 400mm though.


Corbs

[Evanism]

Corbs, if you're still interested in buying nuts with specialy thread sizes and lengths, Specialty Fasteners in Fyshwick is the way to go.

They have a room from a machinists wet dream with every imaginable thing all in little draws and boxes.

Specialty Fasteners (http://www.specfast.com.au/)

They will have what you want in 20 different sizes, metals, finishes and strengths.

Ev

[Paul39]

Sir Willy,


I fully open the jaws of the VM120, and place the blank against the open jaws. Bring up the tailstock to the centre mark. The blank is held by friction between the open jaws and the tail stock. (Disclaimer: If this does not suit you, or you are not comfortable with this method, don't do it).

I also use the above and have a tire tread glued to a chunk of oak to put in the chuck for the same purpose.

I don't recall having one come out of the lathe with the above method, but early in my turning experience I had a big chunk of locust come out during an interrupted cut. MASSIVE catch! It was screwed to a steel face plate on the 20 inch swing Woodfast and broke two #10 screws, tore out two others, and went sailing 7 meters into the yard.

I'm honored that my mind runs in the same ditch as yours.

[Osbojo]

Unless I'm missing something they don't come in a 1 1/4 thread.

Thanks for the suggestions so far team :2tsup:


Sorry, I didn't check the page. I bought a faceplate from them that takes a vicmarc adapter. I now have a Nova and my VM chucks and faceplate are fitted with 1 1/4" 8 adapters. Couldn't find them on their site, give them a bell and speak to Brian, He mayl be able to help.