Need help with spade bit

[hoodlums562]

I am having trouble with the entry point and chipping the wood with my bosch dare devil spade bits. Im trying to create a vape storage piece that holds my accessories and such. The hole sizes are 1in - 1 1/4in and 1 1/2in. I don't have a budget for a drill press or the forstner bits. I do use a support board underneath the piece I am working on but I just cant get the holes to come out clean. I have read that I can also use an additional piece of wood on top to try to create a smoother entry point. Any ideas or suggestions on how to get clean holes like a forstner bit but using a spade bit? This is what I created but the holes aren't nice to look at upclose.308780

[shedbound]

are they the spade bits with a thread on the point that pull themselves through the timber like an auger, cos if it is I found them to be a PITA and dangerous in a drill press that is why i ground the thread off, very unimpressed with the bits and should in my opinion be discontinued. it would be near impossible to get a smooth entry with these bits. May have a place for electricians running cables through studs but not fine woodworking.:no:

[rustynail]

A piece of timber clamped top and bottom will help clean the faces up. A spurred bit would be better but if you dont have such an animal, the first suggestion should get you out of trouble.

[BobL]

I can vouch for the piece of wood on the top method but when you can get some Forstner bits.
My son and I made several of these paint pot stands for the paints he uses on his miniatures. They were so quick to make.
I even use mine to cut holes in aluminium plate as well as wood.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=308807&stc=1

[China]

Spade bits are and always will be a device for rough cuts, as said above a piece of scrap cramped to the exit and entry points will help

[AlexS]

Spade bits are meant to drill into end grain, and they do a good job of that. They are not meant for drilling into side grain. For that, you are best off using either a Forstner bit, or an auger in a hand brace. They should not be used in an electric drill or drill press. The bits Shedbound is referring to sound like a glorified spade bit, also meant for end grain, but I haven't seen or used them.

Just a matter of using the correct bit for the job.

[chambezio]

My experience with spade bits has shown me that they are an excellent bit to use. When they first came out over 30 years ago there was only one brand initially and they that was Irwin and they were called "Speed Bores". I think that the name is the key here. To get them to work well the drill speed needs to be high! I have always used a corded drill to bore largish holes. The reason is that a corded drill will have a bit more grunt and they also have a higher speed. Entry holes, for me, are usually clean but the exit hole will need a backer to make it clean as well

[hoodlums562]

I want to thank everyone for their responses on my question, I got a lot of feedback and that I am thankful for. I ended up biting the bullet and went out and bought some forstner bits from home depot. I purchased the Ryobi set and at first impression wasn't to pleased! I don't have a drill press so I am using a Rigid Drill. First few hole came out o.k..but it wasn't going through the wood like it should. I raised the speed of the drill to its maxed setting and BAM!! The holes came out so clean and nice. I still had the wood split between wholes a few times but I think that had to do with the amount of space between them wasn't enough.

[FenceFurniture]

I agree with all the comments about backing boards top & bottom (if you are indeed exiting through the bottom, but you may not be) but it may also help if you give them a touch up with a diamond paddle. Higher revs on entry (then back the speed off) will also give cleaner rim.

[hoodlums562]

I agree with all the comments about backing boards top & bottom (if you are indeed exiting through the bottom, but you may not be) but it may also help if you give them a touch up with a diamond paddle. Higher revs on entry (then back the speed off) will also give cleaner rim.
From the little expierence I do have, when I start the entry off slow it doesn't tear the wood up as easily as when I start it off full speed. But I may be wrong I will attempt to do this again I have but maybe a few weeks of expierence trying to work with wood. So everything is still brand new to me

[Robson Valley]

I use spade bits for "punching holes" in stud framed house wiring.
True, high speed makes a cleaner entry and a backing board will help with a cleaner exit.
But for a "presentation hole," they really are second rate, even if you had a drill press.

Over the years, I have bought one Forstner at a time. All sorts of brands, can't remember
the names but even some of those are crud = they don't clean themselves, even 18 & 25mm.

[hoodlums562]

I use spade bits for "punching holes" in stud framed house wiring.
True, high speed makes a cleaner entry and a backing board will help with a cleaner exit.
But for a "presentation hole," they really are second rate, even if you had a drill press.

Over the years, I have bought one Forstner at a time. All sorts of brands, can't remember
the names but even some of those are crud = they don't clean themselves, even 18 & 25mm.
what brands would you recommend? The Ryobi ones I got did a pretty decent job! Ill post pictures when I can get a hold of a camera

[Robson Valley]

Except for wiring, I have abandoned spade bits.
Crappy holes, hidden in a wall, = who cares?

Maybe a kit of hole saws would be the best way to go? Despite the rich people who throw rocks,
the bimetal ones can do the job.
Diamond hole saws can do holes in 2" granite counter tops like nobody's business.

Key thing is to save up enough coin for a 10-12" drill press.
My Ryobi 8" is not quite big enough for the once in a while things I need to do.
But, there are all sorts of things you can get done, properly, with a DP.

[AlexS]

What RV said. If you're using Forstners, it's wise to use them in a press, especially with the larger sizes. In a press, the wood is less likely to get caught and spun around.

[Sawdust Maker]

I like my Colt forstners

[FenceFurniture]

But guys, you are missing his point - he can't afford forstners right now, and where can he get a Colt Forstner? So a spade bit solution is required. I too would recommend a forstner, for the additional reason that there'll be a much shallower brad point wound in the bottom of the hole (assuming a blind hole is being drilled).


From the little expierence I do have, when I start the entry off slow it doesn't tear the wood up as easily as when I start it off full speed. But I may be wrong I will attempt to do this again I have but maybe a few weeks of expierence trying to work with wood. So everything is still brand new to meAs you enter, do it very gently, as with other things in life. Sounds like a sharpening is required, or use the covering sacrificial piece on top (makes it impossible to see your mark then, but you can figure a way around that - or ask for help). Is it a new spade bit, or an inheritance?

[Robson Valley]

Drill a 1/8" pilot hole in the work piece.
Drill a 1/8" pilot hole through the sacrificial top piece.
Use the drill bit to index the two together while clamping up tight.
Blast away with the spade surface tearout should be a lot less.

[FenceFurniture]

Something to be aware of:

When the spade bit is just about to exit through the bottom of the top sacrificial piece, it will have cut a disc at the bottom - this is because the spade is shaped so that it cuts the rim of the hole fist. This disc will then be spinning, and some additional pressure will be required to break it, so you can get through to the job proper. At first it feels like something has gone wrong, but it's just the way it is.