Upgrading my 1hp DC system

[dai sensei]

My old system consisted of a 1hp DC unit with a 2 stage bin and ducts connected via dust jamming gates to my various tools (Figure 1).

This system reduced the efficiency of the DC unit by around 50%, and as the bag clogged with the smaller particles, its efficiency reduced even further.

I then discovered this Woodworking Forum and the many posts on DC systems and cyclone units (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=16776 (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=16776) then go to Dust Collection). I decided PVC piping combined with a cyclone/blower mounted on the outside of my shed was the way to go. I read up on cyclones, primarily from Bill Pentz's web site (http://billpentz.com//woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm)) which was a wealth of information. My hat goes off to Bill for the extent of work and investigations he has done to enable the home handyman like myself to draw upon his experience. I also read up on the numerous other posts regarding Bill's designs and tried to draw upon their learnings.

I am in Queensland and my shed has an overhead circulation fan running most of the time. This tends to spread the dust around and therefore I wear a proper dust mask. Removal of all the fines was therefore not as important to me and I decided to try and make my existing 1hp unit work. I knew it was not big enough, but I figure a lot of home handymen may also have this unit and if I could come up with a system using the old 1hp unit, it might benefit them as well.

The following posts will outline what I did and how it worked.

[dai sensei]

2 of 6

I used Bill Pentz's cyclone spreadsheet (http://billpentz.com//woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm) then go to Latest Cyclone Design Spreadsheet in Metric) using the 100mm piping as a basis for my design and adopted a 300mm upper cylinder dia. This gave an outlet cylinder of 150mm dia. I knew the 1hp unit was not big enough, but anything I did had to be better than what I had, whilst giving me the experience of building cyclones and DC ducting systems.
I used a 1:1.64 cone ratio, because I wanted to minimise the overall height, but then modified the cone to ensure I had the chute to suit the outside dia of my PVC piping. I am not good at soldering and opted for pop-rivets with silicon to make and seal my cyclone. This also gave me the opportunity to try out my new pop-riveter attachment for my drill (from the WWW Show). I also decided on a timber joiner between the cone and upper cylinder to help keep the shapes round.

I took the metal intake off my 1hp DC unit and using 3 timber ply panels (Figure 2 A,B & C), formed a taper from the 150mm dia cyclone outlet to a 125mm dia intake to the blower (Figure 3). The ply panels varied in shape to suit the actual blower – "A" being 300mm OD, "B" 300mm square, and "C" 400mm square. I considered the 125mm dia intake as a maximum, as any larger impacted on the actual blower impeller blades.

The timber ply panel "E" was used in the top of the cyclone upper cylinder, and "F" was joined to it with screws. This was to allow me to bolt the blower to the cyclone and enable future separation for blower maintenance etc.

[dai sensei]

3 of 6

I followed Bill's instructions (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/BuildCyclone.cfm (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/BuildCyclone.cfm)) , marked out and cut all the metal components from 0.55mm galvanised steel sheet using my nibbler (from the WWW show) and tin snips. I made my intake with a taper to 100mm PVC joiner (Figure 4). I also made the basic upper cylinder (Figure 5) using timber ply panels "D" and "E" (note that "E" is from the center of "D") fixing with screws.

I then joined the upper cylinder with the intake and installed the outlet cylinder and ramp (Figure 6). I pop-rivetted it all together, then used silicon to smooth it all off. I made the cone by joining the bottom to the PVC dust shute, but joining the top temporarily with a single pop-rivet. The timber panel "A" was from a round piece of left over MDF I had. I had to trim it to shape and was left with a 40mm ring (not shown) with an inside dia of 300mm. This ring proved useful as I used it to form a true round top to the cone, and attach it to the bottom ply panel of the upper cyclone cylinder with screws (Figure 7). I then finished pop-riveting the rest of the cone.

[dai sensei]

4 of 6

I got a 395mm dia steel drum with removable lid from a drum recycler to fit in the small 600mm wide clearance I have on the outside of my shed. It actually had a stainless steel top and bottom with painted steel sides. I made a hole in my collection drum lid and attached a 100mm PVC flange joint (Figure 8). This way the lid can slide up the cyclone dust chute, then the drum slid out from underneath when I need to empty it.

To test the whole thing worked, before mounting it, I hung the blower/cyclone from my workshop roof and attached some PVC piping and flexible pipe. There was heaps more suction than the old system, so I was getting confident the system would work (or at least be a lot better than before). I noticed some very small fines still came out the outlet to the blower, but that was fine as this would be outside my shed.

The next stage was to mount the blower and cyclone. I have a fair bit of steel stuff so constructed 2 frames and a cross member from SHS to suspend the unit from 3 chains. I also used some top-hat section and roof sheeting to stabilise it and form a small shelter (Figure 10). I know I have the support quite high, but that is to allow a bigger blower/cyclone in the future if I decide to upgrade. To give it that little more protection from the weather (although it is on the sheltered side) I used a plastic bin with ventilation over the blower and electrics (not shown).

[dai sensei]

5 of 6

I decided on 4 ports – lathe, table saw/SCMS, bandsaw and drill/router table. I used PVC piping on the outside and flexible hose on the inside (Figure 11). The shortest being 0.9m/1.0m rigid/flexible to the lathe, and the longest being 7.4m/2.0m to drill/router.

Looking down the back (Figure 12) you can see how the PVC all fitted together – all joined with duct tape. You can also see the blower outlet facing down, finishing below the fence line, so I don’t annoy the neighbours too much. All our backyards join each other, so the noise etc shouldn’t worry any of them, but I did check first. The pipe closest in the photo goes around the side of the shed (between my workshop and the garden shed).

Inside the shed I connected gates directly to the 90<SUP>o</SUP> bends coming through the shed wall. I made up 4 gates from coated MDF and some plastic sheeting I got from the tip. I used a plan similar to those available from Phil Bumbalough’s web site (http://www.benchmark.20m.com/articles/BlastGate/blastgatebuilding.html (http://www.benchmark.20m.com/articles/BlastGate/blastgatebuilding.html)), but for the 100mm piping and I screwed the MDF together (Figures 13 & 14). I just used some screws for stops, later I’ll turn up some handles.

Whenever I jointed pipe, or pipe to flexible, I used the flanges off a T (cut off with the bandsaw). Note a standard joiner only has 2 flanges and cost more than a T which has 3 flanges – why they cost more I don't know.

[dai sensei]

6 of 6

There appears to be a 100% improvement on what I had previously at my lathe, then slowly reducing to the drill/router where it's about the same as previously (mind you I have changed from 3m of flexible from the blower to 7.4m/2.0m rigid/flexible = 9.4m!). I connected an additional 2m of flexible hose to the 3m for the tablesaw and vacuumed the entire shed and it worked really well.

It actually worked a bit too well and sucked up 2 plastic bags and a spray can lid that got a bit too close to the hose. Luckily for me, the bags went straight through and out the blower outlet (it could have been a real pain if they caught on the impeller), and the lid made its way to the bin.

The whole system seems to work well and very little dust is expelled into the air from the outlet (from the floor and benches I actually half filled the bin!). At the end of the day however, I will probably need to upgrade the blower to a 2hp unit. As Bill Pentz's has stated many times, a 1hp unit is just not enough. The upgrade can wait however until a suitable low cost opportunity presents itself or my old unit burns out.

I'd like to thank all those members that helped me along the way. I know I am better off than before and have only spent around $200 ($120 on PVC piping & fittings; $50 on steel sheet, silicon and rivets; $20 on a new bin; and $10 at the tip shop for timber and plastics).

Sorry to be so wordy, hope it all helps someone.

Cheers

[silentC]

Thanks for posting Neil, just another argument for pulling the finger out. My brother in law is a sheetmetal worker, so I have access to all the machinery and materials to make a full blown cyclone but I just never seem to find the time. Good to see it went well for you. It's the only time you really want something you made to suck big time... :o

[dai sensei]

Thanks for posting Neil, just another argument for pulling the finger out. My brother in law is a sheetmetal worker, so I have access to all the machinery and materials to make a full blown cyclone but I just never seem to find the time. Good to see it went well for you. It's the only time you really want something you made to suck big time... :o
Not sure how big a set up you have, but if you have to buy a blower, go for at least the 2hp unit (preferably larger) and consider 150mm pipes as this is what is recommended by Bill's site.

Cheers

[TrevorOwen]

Thanks for the detailed post Neil. I'm sure your lungs will benefit by your efforts.

I have been wondering about the construction of a smaller cyclone about the size you have constructed, for some time. The size would better suit those of us who have very limited shed space.

Like you and others I have read Bill Pentz's articles and understand that the ultimate would be the best ie 2HP and 150mm ducting, but sometimes we have to make compromises. I get the feeling that for a small shed ( 1 car garage) building a dust collector of the physical size as yours and installing 100mm ducting with a 2HP blower would still be pretty effective. Afterall, your 1HP unit seemed to suck up unintentional loose items.

I'm interested in your thoughts.

Regards from Adelaide
Trevor

[silentC]

Not sure how big a set up you have, but if you have to buy a blower, go for at least the 2hp unit (preferably larger) and consider 150mm pipes as this is what is recommended by Bill's site.

Cheers
I've got a 3hp twin bag job. I bought it with the intention of making it into a cyclone one day. It's the "one day" part I'm having trouble with ;)

I'll probably make the ducting from gal sheet. I used to make flue pipes years ago and it'll probably work out cheaper for me than the PVC.

[dai sensei]

...installing 100mm ducting with a 2HP blower would still be pretty effective...I'm interested in your thoughts
I tend to agree. Even when I upgrade in the future to 2hp, I'll probably stick to my 100mm piping for my small workshop.


I've got a 3hp twin bag job.....I'll probably make the ducting from gal sheet. I used to make flue pipes years ago and it'll probably work out cheaper for me than the PVC.
If you already have a 3hp/2 bag unit you'd probably just use the cyclone as an in-line filter between the machines and your unit. I paid $40/6m length for my piping and around $3 each for the joints, the 150mm would be more. If you can make you own pipes, the cyclone should be a piece of cake.

You will no doubt build a bigger cyclone than mine and Wayne Davey of this forum has details of the one he built on his web site (http://members.optusnet.com.au/waynedavy/) that is probably closer to the size you want.

Cheers

[Gumby]

Thanks for the post neil. I've just ordered a Carbatec 2HP after selling my 1HP. I hope I can get it set up like yours. ($269 delivered to Melbourne is a good deal i think)

[Gaza]

I paid $40/6m length for my piping and around $3 each for the joints,
Did you use 100mm PVC Stormwater pipe if so, i think you had better find a new supplier the going rate in Syd is around $18-25.00 per 6mt length.

P.S. Great job, i have been planing (thinking about) getting around to building a mini cyclone for a while and have plans to build a new system for my factory one day. You did it

[dai sensei]

Did you use 100mm PVC Stormwater pipe if so, i think you had better find a new supplier the going rate in Syd is around $18-25.00 per 6mt length.
Good point Gaza http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon10.gif. I did buy 2 lengths, so perhaps that should be $40/2x6mhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon11.gif

Cheers

[Harry72]

Come down here and see the prices... $60 per full lenght!(SDW)