Where to find veneer tape??

[Bespoken]

I know this question has come up before, but I've read the old threads and the links suggested all no longer seem to stock paper veneer tape.

Can anyone suggest somewhere I can get some, or a suitable alternative?

Thanks.

[Uncle Al]

Contact Nitto Tapes http://www.nitto.com/jp/en/products/group/double/#
Ask for technical sales, they should be very helpful.
I doubt if they would sell direct to you, but will be able to steer you to one of their distributors.

Alan...

[Bespoken]

Contact Nitto Tapes http://www.nitto.com/jp/en/products/group/double/#
Ask for technical sales, they should be very helpful.
I doubt if they would sell direct to you, but will be able to steer you to one of their distributors.

Alan...


Thanks Alan. I'll give them a call tomorrow and report back the answer.
Any suggestions of a product to ask after? They sell A LOT of tapes and none are called "veneer tape".

[Uncle Al]

Any suggestions of a product to ask after? They sell A LOT of tapes and none are called "veneer tape".
Sorry, you will have to 'wing it'. Usually, the sales guys are very helpful, just describe your application and see where they go from there.
Good luck,

Alan...

[chrisb691]

Have you tried Peter Scott Young?

(03) 9870 8733

[Bespoken]

Have you tried Peter Scott Young?

(03) 9870 8733


...I will now.

[Arron]

I don't use it. Two main things I don't like about it. Firstly it needs wetting, so it makes your workpiece damp and makes the veneer curl. Secondly, its fibrous, so it doesn't cut particularly cleanly - you tend to get annoying little thread hanging on after you've cut a piece out. I use masking tape - the plasticy kind, not the fibrous kind. Specifically Magpie tape - which I get from VG Auto Paints. It cuts cleanly with a snap, plus it has the right amount of drag against your scalpel.

If I had to buy it, I'd buy it here http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Joint-Tape.html .

cheers
Arron

[Bespoken]

I don't use it. Two main things I don't like about it. Firstly it needs wetting, so it makes your workpiece damp and makes the veneer curl. Secondly, its fibrous, so it doesn't cut particularly cleanly - you tend to get annoying little thread hanging on after you've cut a piece out. I use masking tape - the plasticy kind, not the fibrous kind. Specifically Magpie tape - which I get from VG Auto Paints. It cuts cleanly with a snap, plus it has the right amount of drag against your scalpel.

cheers
Arron


You make interesting points Arron. I will consider my options it seems.
Your "perhaps you don't need it" approach intrigues me. I am running out of places to store the bits & bobs I "needed" but never ended up using. :;

...Dave

[Arron]

I forgot to mention. I also use clear contact film a lot. Not so much for preventing splitting, but for example to assemble an image on - and right through to pressing to keep the iron dust and other nasties off the face while its in the press. Not the book covering stuff - the stickier stuff which I think is sold as drawer liners among other things.

One thing about marquetry is that because it has such a long tradition people are naturally biased towards the very traditional methods and materials. You have to remember though that what people used one or two hundred years ago was the best they had at the time - nothing else.

Also worth remembering, is that most Australian timbers are really splitty, compared to what those people demonstrating marquetry overseas are familiar with. This affects choice of technique and materials. For example, I often use standard commercial thickness jarrah veneer (0.6mm) for backgrounds. Whilst most o/s marquetry demonstrators will use veneer tape only on areas most prone to split, I find I need to cover the entire background with tape, and reinforce the edges as well. You cannot predict where it will split, only that it will do so many times before the job is done.

cheers
Arron

[Bespoken]

I forgot to mention. I also use clear contact film a lot. Not so much for preventing splitting, but for example to assemble an image on - and right through to pressing to keep the iron dust and other nasties off the face while its in the press. Not the book covering stuff - the stickier stuff which I think is sold as drawer liners among other things.


I'm intrigued by this. Seems like a really good idea to me. But I'm curious about how you then get the contact off without tearing off fine slivers from the marquetry image.

...Dave

[Arron]

I'm intrigued by this. Seems like a really good idea to me. But I'm curious about how you then get the contact off without tearing off fine slivers from the marquetry image.

...Dave

An example of where I might use it is when cutting out a pattern on a scroll saw. After cut-out, the bits are assembled face down on the contact. The contact is just making them sit still and behave. Then they go into the press with a plywood substrate. When the item is retrieved from the press, the contact peels off easily.
Once things have spent a night in my press, they never come apart.
cheers
Arron