Another Tudor Dollhouse

[OtakiriLad]

Some time ago I built a dollhouse which ended up going to my grandson and his wife. When it went out the door SWMBO just about tripped over her bottom lip so in a rash moment I said I would build her another one. After a bit of searching I came across this . . .
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. . . along with all the instructions at the British Collector’s Club website
http://www.collectors-club-of-great-britain.co.uk/Features/Tudor-Market-Hall--Part-1/_ft1190
Not wanting a large house I downloaded all the pages into a Word document and converted all measurements to ‘half-scale’ ie 1:24. In the last couple of months I have commenced building and then realised I had not taken photos nor posted progress – my most humble apologies, especially to ‘Crowie’ who demands full disclosure on all such projects. So I will start now.
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I have constructed the first room (the tavern) and the walls to the ‘Market Place’ and am at the stage of putting in the ceiling beams.

The walls are 3mm or 6mm ply with 2mm x 6mm strips of walnut stained pine. The floors are 2mm x 9mm merbau (I think) recovered from a builders skip. These strips I made myself from boards put through a thicknesser to the largest dimension and then cut into 2mm strips on the tablesaw.

The brickwork is made as individual bricks cut from painted egg cartons . . .
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Top to bottom: raw carton, painted, cut into 3mm strips, cut into 3mm x 10mm bricks.
The chimney will be plastered and the few bricks on it will be left exposed to represent crumbling, distressed plasterwork.

A removable front panel has been built and finished on the outside. The original instructions call for the use of purchased windows but at half-scale I had to make my own using 1mm x 2mm strips for framing. The inside is yet to be done.
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Lighting is via 3mm warm white LEDs and the fireplaces have flashing 5mm red, orange and amber LEDs embedded in the logs. I found an outfit in Tasmania who are web based and supply the 3mm LEDs at 15c each as opposed to the $2.45 I was quoted by the local branch of a National electronics supply place! Anyway, wiring on the side and rear will be hidden by false panels rather than taped over as per the original instructions.

More when I get organised and active.

[Repliconics]

I really like this mate!
I can't wait to see it all come together.
The individual bricks from egg cartons are fantastic!
I'm really going to enjoy watching you build this.
Great stuff!

Trevor.

[PLD]

Well, I am already stunned. This is going to be well worth watching! Egg cartons to make bricks, I would never have thought of that, but it will have the perfect texture. I'm watching this one, for sure!

[Ruddy]

Simply brilliant!

[Keith_1]

Looks really good - well done. Look forward to watching the progress.

Keith

[crowie]

Some time ago I built a dollhouse which ended up going to my grandson and his wife. When it went out the door SWMBO just about tripped over her bottom lip so in a rash moment I said I would build her another one. After a bit of searching I came across this . . .
312124
. . . along with all the instructions at the British Collector’s Club website
http://www.collectors-club-of-great-britain.co.uk/Features/Tudor-Market-Hall--Part-1/_ft1190
Not wanting a large house I downloaded all the pages into a Word document and converted all measurements to ‘half-scale’ ie 1:24. In the last couple of months I have commenced building and then realised I had not taken photos nor posted progress – my most humble apologies, especially to ‘Crowie’ who demands full disclosure on all such projects. So I will start now.
312119 312120
I have constructed the first room (the tavern) and the walls to the ‘Market Place’ and am at the stage of putting in the ceiling beams.

The walls are 3mm or 6mm ply with 2mm x 6mm strips of walnut stained pine. The floors are 2mm x 9mm merbau (I think) recovered from a builders skip. These strips I made myself from boards put through a thicknesser to the largest dimension and then cut into 2mm strips on the tablesaw.

The brickwork is made as individual bricks cut from painted egg cartons . . .
312122
Top to bottom: raw carton, painted, cut into 3mm strips, cut into 3mm x 10mm bricks.
The chimney will be plastered and the few bricks on it will be left exposed to represent crumbling, distressed plasterwork.

A removable front panel has been built and finished on the outside. The original instructions call for the use of purchased windows but at half-scale I had to make my own using 1mm x 2mm strips for framing. The inside is yet to be done.
312121
Lighting is via 3mm warm white LEDs and the fireplaces have flashing 5mm red, orange and amber LEDs embedded in the logs. I found an outfit in Tasmania who are web based and supply the 3mm LEDs at 15c each as opposed to the $2.45 I was quoted by the local branch of a National electronics supply place! Anyway, wiring on the side and rear will be hidden by false panels rather than taped over as per the original instructions.

More when I get organised and active.Wel

Well "OtakiriLad", Firstly sir there is absolutely no need to apologize to someone like me.
I just really appreciate see blokes [& ladies] show off there craftsmanship and photos with notes are the bees knees.
This project of yours certainly looks first class, so THANK YOU for taking the time to share it with the rest of us.
Cheers, crowie

[Sawdust Maker]

wow

what did the previous one look like

[artme]

:o

Seat drawn up, lamingtons to hand, smile on face!!!

[OtakiriLad]

Today has been one of connecting up the lights in the ‘Market Square’ – a sod of a job when working on a small scale with big stubby fingers like mine. The lights are made slightly differently to the method described in the instructions.
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Take a length of moulding (9 x 6mm insert mould from the green shed in this case) and a bit of 3mm ply. Glue the moulding along the edge of the ply and when dry cut the ply to 15mm. Then slice into 4mm slices to achieve the light bracket. Next, clean up with a bit of sandpaper and stain. Then drill two 0.5mm holes diagonally through so as to hold the LED wires. Bend the wires to give about a 10mm standup section at the bulb end and the other end to be horizontal. Cut a drinking straw and slit it lengthwise so it can be rolled tighter and slipped over the light to represent the candle.

This business of using LEDs is complicated by needing resistors in the circuit. Much searching on the web lead to much confusion – you are assumed to have a doctorate in electrical engineering with astro-physics on the side – until I came across the following site . . .
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
Very useful. All lights are being fed off a 240v - 12v 2.5a AC/DC converter. Anyway they seem to work. In addition I have framed up the interior of the front access panel – just waiting to get a couple of miniature hinges for the door to complete that.
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Next task is the ground floor ceiling / 1st floor flooring.

Cheers

[OtakiriLad]

Nick - The previous dolls house is documented elsewhere in this forum as 'Building Crowie's Dolls House - A Slow WIP'. As yet I haven't worked out how to post a link to another thread but you should be able to find it using the forum search.
Cheers

[Sawdust Maker]

thanks

Found it here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=157302&highlight=Building+Crowie%27s+Dolls+House)

PS: Bloomin amazing, I'm gobsmacked

[Dalboy]

Looking good I will be watching the build on this one as I did the first one you made.


And thank you for the link to the dolls house build you found and some very good information on the LED set up.

[Christos]

Another one to follow, :2tsup:.

Once this one is completed we all need to come up with a way of getting you to give this away, thus your shocked wife will be asking for another doll house to be made. :U

[OtakiriLad]

The ceiling/floor was cut from 3mm ply, painted on the ceiling side and glued to the ground floor walls. When dry the house was upended and a 6mm x 6mm beam framework added in line with the wall beams. Infill 4mm x 4mm beams in line with the tavern ceiling beams also inserted.

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Next step is the addition of the uprights and minor fiddly bits. All good fun. SWMBO was not impressed with the suggestion this one be disposed of. :oo:

Cheers

[OtakiriLad]

The uprights from 6mm x 6mm were inserted at strategic places followed by brackets and half-rounds.

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The brackets were made from strips cut off a bit of scrap pine that had a 6mm cove cut along the edge using a router. These strips at 10mm x 10mm were then sliced to a 6mm section and glued round the top of each upright. The half rounds were made by planing down chicken kebab skewers and staining them. They were cut to length and fitted to the 6mm x 6mm beam framework in place of the suggested twisted rope moulding (just too small to find to purchase or make). The decorative mouldings were sliced from the moulding used to make the light brackets and placet in line with each of the ceiling beams.

The exposed wiring at the back and chimney side of the house has also been cleaned up and taped down with masking tape. As mentioned before this will be covered up by false panelling later.

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Now for the first floor walls.

Cheers

[PLD]

This is going to be a spectacular house! Did you build that boat pictured as your avatar? That looks like a real beauty.

[OtakiriLad]

Right then. The walls are up with the fireplace wall made as a cavity wall to better hide the wiring which is not as per instructions but as they say instructions are only there if all else fails!

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The current task is flooring. I ran out of the timber I used for the tavern floor so in this case I have used another piece of recycled scrap which looks like Tassie oak. In the cutting down and planing I have ended up with 6mm x 2mm cut to 150mm lengths (scale 12ft boards of 6” x 2”) Hopefully I have enough from the one piece.

I'm starting to enjoy this.

Cheers

[OtakiriLad]

Well, the flooring went well and there was enough for the job. A coat of spray gloss really lifted it.

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In addition I have constructed the steps for the external staircase. Basically this was cut from a length of 12mm pine with a rebate along each edge to leave a 2 x 2mm ‘nose’. Each shaped edge was then cut off at 45 degrees and this was then cut into 35mm lengths. These pieces were sanded and glued to a scrap piece of 3mm ply to form the stairs, then the whole glued to a wider backing piece of ply, stained and mounted.

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As you can see the internal wall beams have been added together with the outline of the window. SWMBO wants to know when she can move in!
Cheers

[Christos]

I love these work in progress. There is a lot of details in this and I thank you for putting up the posts.

[PLD]

Really looking nice, You need to open a business, called "Extreme Dollhouse Productions" or something like that. There as to be a market for such beautiful dollhouses.

[OtakiriLad]

I am stymied on the window until I can find a pen that will draw on acetate sheet to represent the diamond leadlight style of window panes.

In the meantime I have moved on to this floor’s lighting which involves drilling a lot of small holes and threading wire through them and the cavity walls. There is only a 6mm gap which makes things a little tricky.

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The red wires are the positive end of the circuit and the black the negative. The white wires connect positive to negative between LEDs. The red wire is where I solder in the appropriate rating of resistor.
Circled in red on the back of the house are the two legs of each LED that come through separate holes and will be soldered to the wiring on this side of the wall. The lights on the cavity walls are soldered out from the ‘good’ side of the wall and the wiring gently pulled through to draw the light fitting flush for gluing.
Cheers
PS. I typed this up in Word and the spell checker kept suggesting that ‘red wire’ should be ‘red wine’ – love it:2tsup:

[Keith_1]

Love the house. Were you an electrician in an earlier life ? Look forward to the ongoing work.

Keith

[Dalboy]

Coming along nicely. I know what it is like to wire a dolls house, have you tried copper tape (http://youtu.be/EuXcDC--SPI) for the wiring

[OtakiriLad]

Progress has been very slow recently for some reason. Maybe it’s because I am in the throes of learning QCad while drawing up the lines of the Endeavour in readiness for building a cross section as the next project.

However I finally tracked down a decent pen to mark the acetate for the diamond look windows which meant being able to cut and fix the front beams above where the access panels will go. Then I inserted the main ceiling beams and have started on the ceiling joists. Work has stopped while I cut and stain some more!

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In answer to your question, Keith – definitely not! I am a farmer’s son who spent 40 years in IT which means I will have a go at anything! And no Dalboy I haven’t looked at copper tape. I have seen references to it but not in conjunction with LED lights. Nor have I seriously searched for it here in Oz. Maybe for some future moment of weakness!

Yes PLD the avatar is of my strip built cosine wherry which unfortunately is strung up in the ceiling of my workshop waiting for me to clean up sufficiently for me to get access to get it out on the water.

Cheers

[Keith_1]

Progress has been very slow recently for some reason. Maybe it’s because I am in the throes of learning QCad while drawing up the lines of the Endeavour in readiness for building a cross section as the next project.

However I finally tracked down a decent pen to mark the acetate for the diamond look windows which meant being able to cut and fix the front beams above where the access panels will go. Then I inserted the main ceiling beams and have started on the ceiling joists. Work has stopped while I cut and stain some more!

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In answer to your question, Keith – definitely not! I am a farmer’s son who spent 40 years in IT which means I will have a go at anything! And no Dalboy I haven’t looked at copper tape. I have seen references to it but not in conjunction with LED lights. Nor have I seriously searched for it here in Oz. Maybe for some future moment of weakness!

Yes PLD the avatar is of my strip built cosine wherry which unfortunately is strung up in the ceiling of my workshop waiting for me to clean up sufficiently for me to get access to get it out on the water.

Cheers

You are definitely doing a great job.

Well Done

Keith

[wheelinround]

:brava

:brava

[Repliconics]

Really fine work this.
I'm enjoying every minute of it.

The Endeavour cross section sounds wonderful.
I'm looking forward to that!

[Keith_1]

Lots of intricate work, you must have a steady hand and good eyesight.

It' looking great.


Keith

[OtakiriLad]

It seems a while since I updated this but I have been a bit side-tracked by building a plinth to hide the electrics including the transformer and also to provide a switch array so as to turn on the lights in each room on an individual basis.

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Looking at that Keith you can definitely tell I was not a sparkie in a past life. The switches themselves have been extracted from normal light switches (and there are two slightly different forms) Also note the colour change from my red is positive and black negative to the industry standard of brown for phase and blue for neutral!

Also work on the actual house has progressed to the installation of the bedroom and great hall floors and walls. The back wall of the great hall gives an indication as to the final roof height – this room is effectively double height with ‘cathedral’ ceilings. The ceiling of the bedroom (on the right) forms the floor of the ‘servant’s quarters’ in the roof cavity.

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One thing I have found is that the photos on the website where I found this project have all disappeared. Fortunately I downloaded them at the time and have them all saved in a Word document. It’s a painful lesson learned from the past – the web is constantly changing so if you want something, save it.

Cheers

[crowie]

It seems a while since I updated this but I have been a bit side-tracked by building a plinth to hide the electrics including the transformer and also to provide a switch array so as to turn on the lights in each room on an individual basis.

317355 317356

Looking at that Keith you can definitely tell I was not a sparkie in a past life. The switches themselves have been extracted from normal light switches (and there are two slightly different forms) Also note the colour change from my red is positive and black negative to the industry standard of brown for phase and blue for neutral!

Also work on the actual house has progressed to the installation of the bedroom and great hall floors and walls. The back wall of the great hall gives an indication as to the final roof height – this room is effectively double height with ‘cathedral’ ceilings. The ceiling of the bedroom (on the right) forms the floor of the ‘servant’s quarters’ in the roof cavity.

317357

One thing I have found is that the photos on the website where I found this project have all disappeared. Fortunately I downloaded them at the time and have them all saved in a Word document. It’s a painful lesson learned from the past – the web is constantly changing so if you want something, save it.

Cheers

G'day "OtakiriLad", You've done quite a reasonable job on the electrics sir....
You must have had some difficulty doing the housing for the 7 mech's all in a round...I've only ever seen a bank of 4 in the electrical catalogue...
It's also good that you reminded us all to save what we see on the internet when we see it....top advice, thank you....
It's starting to look like a real house now...well done and keep the photos & notes coming.
cheers, crowie

[Repliconics]

That is really wonderful work mate!
I'm enjoying every minute of it :2tsup:

Cheers
Trev.

[PLD]

Wonderful job. :2tsup:

[OtakiriLad]

Thanks to all for the encouragement.

Progress is slow but at least it is progress. More time is spent waiting for glue and paint to dry than actually building things but one of the lessons it has taken me 50 years to learn is that when something is glued up – LEAVE THE B****Y THING ALONE!

The great hall has progressed to having the front access panel retainer installed, half the roof on and the ceiling beams installed.

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The servant’s quarters (under the roof above the main bedroom) has also had the ends fitted and the roof panels cut out. A dormer window has been installed in the roof and is currently held in place with a spring clamp to make sure it is reasonably square and to assist in drying.

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The finished access panels have now all been glazed – only waiting for one door to be made and fitted. The last one somehow got mismeasured and assigned to the scrapheap. Now that some of the roof is on I can get a better appreciation of the whole thing. Still enjoying it.

Cheers
Dave

[Keith_1]

Dave,

It looks great. You are a good house builder.

Regards

Keith

[crowie]

Thanks to all for the encouragement.

Progress is slow but at least it is progress. More time is spent waiting for glue and paint to dry than actually building things but one of the lessons it has taken me 50 years to learn is that when something is glued up – LEAVE THE B****Y THING ALONE!

The great hall has progressed to having the front access panel retainer installed, half the roof on and the ceiling beams installed.

318569

The servant’s quarters (under the roof above the main bedroom) has also had the ends fitted and the roof panels cut out. A dormer window has been installed in the roof and is currently held in place with a spring clamp to make sure it is reasonably square and to assist in drying.

318570

The finished access panels have now all been glazed – only waiting for one door to be made and fitted. The last one somehow got mismeasured and assigned to the scrapheap. Now that some of the roof is on I can get a better appreciation of the whole thing. Still enjoying it.

Cheers
Dave

G'Day Dave,
You are doing a first class job on this dolls house and it's starting to look magnificent rather than just good....keep it coming sir...
Thank you for the reminder about leaving glue up's in place until they are dry....we'll have to work up a funny sign for that one to go up in the shed....
Cheers, crowie

[Repliconics]

I must admit before seeing your build, I would have said I'm not a doll house kinda guy!
But I've very quickly come to see that there's a hole lot more going on here.
This is architectural model making at it's best!!!!
The detail your achieving is fantastic to say the least.

I can only say your work is Brilliant and I'm a complete convert :2tsup:
Please keep it coming "Fantastic Stuff"

Cheers
Trev.

[OtakiriLad]

Construction is like the old-time dance routine – “Slow, slow, quick, quick, slow”. I have been going mainly slow with lots of repetitive stuff with beams, paint, lights, glue drying, etc until now where I am about ready to do some major plastering for roof tiles and exterior pavers. So firstly the front on view, then the end view and the back and sides (which show the false panelling covering up the wiring).

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The great hall has a more formal fireplace on a brick background, ‘cathedral’ ceilings and a couple of chandeliers!

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Some experimentation will be necessary with plaster to judge drying and working time before letting loose on the house itself.

Cheers
Dave

[Repliconics]

Mate that is just brilliant work.
Fantastic detail everywhere and every time you post there's even more!
Honestly your work is wonderful :2tsup:

Cheers mate
Trev.

[crowie]

G'Day Dave, Magnificent is a good word to describe this masterpiece...Patience and attention to detail are all very evident. Cheers, crowie

[OtakiriLad]

It's "Experimentation Day".

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I went to the green shed and got a 20kg bag of render and having used only a couple of hundred mls for this I am going to have a lot left over. Anyway, I added water, mixed up to a fairly stiff mix and trowelled it onto an offcut piece of ply pre-treated with diluted PVA (as has been done to the roof of the house. This amount covered about 150mm square which is tons for trialling the method. Depth of about 5mm screeded flat. Then with a putty knife I made rows of plaster about 10mm apart each sloping enough to give a 3D effect. Then using the tip of the knife cut lines to represent the tiles.

It looks OK from my point of view and an hour later is still quite wet enough to work which was the point of the exercise - how much do I need to make up and how long have I got before it goes off.

I'll also use this trial piece to test out paint/stain when dry.

Next, the real thing.

Cheers

[crowie]

It's "Experimentation Day".

321401

I went to the green shed and got a 20kg bag of render and having used only a couple of hundred mls for this I am going to have a lot left over. Anyway, I added water, mixed up to a fairly stiff mix and trowelled it onto an offcut piece of ply pre-treated with diluted PVA (as has been done to the roof of the house. This amount covered about 150mm square which is tons for trialling the method. Depth of about 5mm screeded flat. Then with a putty knife I made rows of plaster about 10mm apart each sloping enough to give a 3D effect. Then using the tip of the knife cut lines to represent the tiles.

It looks OK from my point of view and an hour later is still quite wet enough to work which was the point of the exercise - how much do I need to make up and how long have I got before it goes off.

I'll also use this trial piece to test out paint/stain when dry.

Next, the real thing.

Cheers

Dave, How good does that look...superbly done sir....crowie

[Repliconics]

Mate I can only hope as soon as you finish this build you start another!
I am right into this :2tsup:
Fantastic work on the trial tiles they certainly look the part.

Cheers
Trev.

[OtakiriLad]

The work force is now on strike! The roof is on and the owner has not yet shouted!

In total disregard for usual tradition I got everything in place before setting out on the exercise – render, water, mixer, screeds, knives, wet cloths, plastic on the bench! I allowed two and a half hours and it took two.

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It was a matter of slopping it on . . .

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. . . then screeding and roughly marking strips, bevelling the plaster based on those markings . . .

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. . . and finally making impressions representing the tiles.

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Each row was bevelled and ‘impressed’ before proceeding with the next as the act of bevelling squeezed plaster slightly on top of the row below and hid any inaccurate markings.

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Now to wait for it to dry before doing the chimney and then the ground pavers (if the boss shouts).
Cheers

[crowie]

Dave, That looks amazing sir...VERY WELL DONE!!! cheers, crowie

[Repliconics]

Dave, That looks amazing sir...VERY WELL DONE!!! cheers, crowie

I couldn't agree more if I wonted to :2tsup:

Trev.

[TKO]

Hi that roof really looks the part,a very nice bit of Tudor building, I'm keeping my eye on the build well done.

Eddie

[OtakiriLad]

This morning I decided to take the test piece and brush it down to get rid of the bits of debris when it fell off the ply backing and smashed into small pieces!

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So now, what do I do with the actual house? I am loathe to just leave it as it is especially as I was about to plaster the chimney. So do I carefully remove the stuff already there and glue the (hopefully large) pieces back on? Do I remove the existing lot and re-do it and if so, what do I do this time to prevent a recurrence?

Any and all suggestions gratefully received.

Cheers

[Repliconics]

Just looking at the way the plaster is sitting on the roof, it looks pretty secure with the ridge capping!
If it was me I'd first run a sharp knife under one of the leading edges to see if it wants to lift.
If it does you may get away with just gluing it all the way around at the bottom.

Good luck :2tsup:

Cheers
Trev.

[OtakiriLad]

Thanks Trev. I have done as you suggested and it looks as solid as so I am going to leave well alone. The test piece backing is unsupported so pretty flexible which maybe is the problem. The house is rigid and doesn't move.

For the chimney I am going to nail in a few brads and leave them proud of the surface as a key.

Cheers

[crowie]

Dave, You could also try to stabilize the roof with some "cornice cement" around the edges; it sticks like "dodo to a blanket".... crowie

[OtakiriLad]

Thanks for the assistance. One of my next tasks is to attach barge boards so I will use them to anchor some adhesive as well as tidy up the edges.

In the meantime I have plastered the chimney and the exterior ground in the market area. Both, I think, have come up well.

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I am a little concerned about the top part of the chimney both from an aesthetic and a technical point of view. With three fireplaces I believe technically there should be three pots but with the small size there is no room for this number. Purely from a ‘looking good’ position I feel the top part needs to be wider so I will re-do it.

Only bargeboards, great hall access panels, bannisters, balustrades, painting, signage and general tidy-up to go. And I’m not going to mention the furnishings!

Cheers

[Repliconics]

Looking brilliant mate.
I think your right about the chimney.
With three fireplaces the chimney stack would be much wider.

Please let's do mention the furnishings.
I haven't watched you do this before.
Do you make all your own?

Cheers
Trev.

[Keith_1]

Looking great,

Something like this would be a great build for my G Scale model railway

Regards


Keith

[TKO]

Hi your house is looking good ,Don't forget to put the flashing around the chimney or it will let the rain in

I agree the chimney could be a little wider ,but a Tudor chimney usually has wider brick work at the top

and you would have enough room for the three pots,to set the chimney off,looking forward to some

Furnishings.

Eddie

[OtakiriLad]

Right then. I have added the barge boards and filled in the bits that had crumbled away from the edges. Then the paint job. I used tubes of acrylic hobby paints I picked up for a dollar or so at the cheapie shops with the main colour being Burnt Sienna then over-brushing with Black and Raw Sienna.
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It certainly looks much improved on the unpainted version. Not sure what colour to do the paving stones.

In addition I have added the glazing for the great hall access panel together with the beam work. A trial run with all lights on is encouraging me to get on a finish it (maybe by Christmas!)

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Cheers

[crowie]

Right then. I have added the barge boards and filled in the bits that had crumbled away from the edges. Then the paint job. I used tubes of acrylic hobby paints I picked up for a dollar or so at the cheapie shops with the main colour being Burnt Sienna then over-brushing with Black and Raw Sienna.
323236323237

It certainly looks much improved on the unpainted version. Not sure what colour to do the paving stones.

In addition I have added the glazing for the great hall access panel together with the beam work. A trial run with all lights on is encouraging me to get on a finish it (maybe by Christmas!)

323238

Cheers

G'Day Dave, That roof has come up a treat sir.... love the look with the lights on..... what's happening with the chimney??? Cheers, crowie

[Keith_1]

It is beautiful - great work

Keith

[TKO]

I agree with Keith, but as Peter say's what about the chimney, you can't light a fire with out a chimney.

Eddie.

[Dalboy]

Great job on the house. It has been good to see the progress from start to finish. The picture with the lights on really shows it at its best:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[Repliconics]

Just a wonderful piece of work mate.
I'm really enjoying watching it all come together.
It looks fantastic with the lights on.
Can't wait to see more progress.

Cheers
Trev.

[OtakiriLad]

At long last I have got rid of visitors and other assorted distractions.
The chimney had a couple of cheeks added,

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then plastered, attached to the house,
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filled in with more plaster then finally painted and pots added.
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It looks much better at this size I feel.

I have also painted the paving and started adding the balustrades. A couple of minor items to go now! I will put up a couple of final photos when that is done. If (or when according to SWMBO) I get round to furnishing it that will be another set of posts.
Cheers

[crowie]

At long last I have got rid of visitors and other assorted distractions.
The chimney had a couple of cheeks added,

325441
then plastered, attached to the house,
325442
filled in with more plaster then finally painted and pots added.
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It looks much better at this size I feel.

I have also painted the paving and started adding the balustrades. A couple of minor items to go now! I will put up a couple of final photos when that is done. If (or when according to SWMBO) I get round to furnishing it that will be another set of posts.
Cheers

Very nicely done indeed Dave, You've certain done a first class just on this doll's house sir..... WELL DONE, love the chimney..cheers, Peter

[Repliconics]

I've got to agree with Crowie your doing some fine work here.
You've given me a hole new respect for what a doll's house can be.
Looking forward to seeing it as a finished project.
I've really enjoyed watching its progress.

Cheers mate
Trev.

[Keith_1]

Your house is coming up a treat.

Well done !!

Keith