Genty 15th May 2014, 04:26 PM Hello all,
I made a end grain cutting board from jarrah. I used titebond lll glue and waited approximately a week before sanding and applying the finish. I used organoil hard burnising oil (hbo) using the wet on wet procedure with a ROS. I went sanded all the way up to 4000 grit micromesh and got a good sheen. But much to my dismay when I went to check it the next day I found that the surface was no longer smooth and the glue joints had risen slightly.
I have two questions - Why did the glue joints rise? (I previously finished a end grain cutting board by hand with organoil hbo and the glue did not rise, however the time between final sanding and finishing was approximately 2 weeks).
- What would be the best way to get it back to a smooth finish?
Below is a picture of the finished product.
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rod1949 16th May 2014, 03:17 PM Did you use the same glue on the first board?
Genty 16th May 2014, 03:18 PM Yes the same glue.
Sir Stinkalot 16th May 2014, 04:07 PM It might just be a case of pva creep. Was the other board the same timber? If so perhaps the temperature may have been different between gluing the two different boards and the Titebond may have acted slightly differently.
It would be frustrating particularly when you spent so much time sanding it down. I guess the only place to go from here is to sand again and just accept what happens. Whilst Titebond III is a common glue for your application perhaps an epoxy may be better.
Genty 16th May 2014, 04:56 PM The other board was a jarrah as well. Only difference the other board was 20+ year old jarrah and this one was jarrah bought from bunnings. I went and sanded it again with the last grit I used and the glue is no longer raised. Will check it again in a couple of days to see if it is still smooth.
Sir Stinkalot 16th May 2014, 07:35 PM was jarrah bought from bunnings
The prosecution rests your Honour :U
anthonyz 16th May 2014, 11:51 PM Hi Genty interesting to hear your story of raised glue joints. I had the same thing happen to me recently but with edge grain.
I used also a very old Jarrah or some Ironbark and Merbau (from Masters) not Bunnings :). Same sanding even went to a Proffesional woodworker and got him run the laminated board through his drum sander. A couple of coats of Danish oil. Then the steps at the joins appear!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/ty7uju6e.jpg the only difference is this. Working from the outsides. 1st 2nd 5th & 6th joints are straight edge to edge glue. The 3rd and 4th joins I got keen and decided a few biscuits would be the go. No not choc chips. I thought these May have been the reason for the glue creep. All the joins have a little creep but the 3rd and 4th with biscuits are worse. As you can see this is a quilting table and a smooth flush surface is a must. Back to the sander!!!
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Evanism 17th May 2014, 01:37 AM The humidity in Canberra in the mornings is unreal. 1 degree and 82 percent this morning. 18 degrees and 60 by midday.
In the summer its hideous.
I've made a habit of storing timber on the garage floor for a few weeks before using it. Gets it all the same.
Perhaps the big shed timber hasn't settled down to local conditions? Too dry? Adding the glues, pressure and oils makes it misbehave?
Christos 17th May 2014, 11:09 AM ............
I've made a habit of storing timber on the garage floor for a few weeks before using it. Gets it all the same.
....
You have a garage floor. :o
:U
Genty 17th May 2014, 01:11 PM After sanding it back smooth yesterday I went and checked it this morning and the glue joints have risen again, I will just leave it for a couple of weeks and then sand it again if needed. Thanks everyone for your help.
Lee roy 19th May 2014, 11:16 PM Leaving it is best and really your only option in this case.I've made a few of these from jarrah mixed with another species usually hard maple or beech. Whenever I've left them sit between time/work/getrountoit's they been ok, however the cut/glue/sand/oil/out the door ones have always looked awful a few months later and had that problem you describe. Having said that, a light sand and oil and they've settled down for good.
Have you considered scraping the top? I made this one for my wife 3 or 4 years ago and regularly scrape the top after washing to keep it clean (Not a cabinet scraper, just a dedicated steel paint scraper) and it works wonders at keeping the top smooth and flat. Also takes the 'edge' that can form between the different wood species through the seasons.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h268/lharwood_2006/woodwork/3E7A82D5-EAC0-45E6-97F8-68779B933CCD-384-000000393EE5A605.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/user/lharwood_2006/media/woodwork/3E7A82D5-EAC0-45E6-97F8-68779B933CCD-384-000000393EE5A605.jpg.html)
This one needed a couple of gum veins epoxied and it gave some terrible raised areas after summer. Again, a couple of scrapes down fixed it for good. Even made a matching handle and gave the scraper to the new owner so they could keep it clean and smooth if it ever reoccurred seeing it was going to live in the tropics.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h268/lharwood_2006/woodwork/BB0EF1C1-B744-4966-8496-01162BE297CF_zpsw4ron5jh.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/user/lharwood_2006/media/woodwork/BB0EF1C1-B744-4966-8496-01162BE297CF_zpsw4ron5jh.jpg.html)
Dez Built 26th May 2014, 08:38 PM I don't have an answer that will help, but I was amazed that Bunnings sold Jarrah!!! Where in the store do they keep it?
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