Burl Backsaw build.

[planemaker]

Hi. Some of you will remember seeing this photo I posted on the toothing plane build.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0257_zpsba6c8160.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0257_zpsba6c8160.jpg.html)

There was a good reason for selecting this wood to flatten its top face surface. Its being used for my next backsaw build. Now I am reasonably confident that this wood will be stable enough to use as a closed handle. But not enough to risk adding a traditional lambs tongue to the base of the cheek. Instead I have chosen to make this union much more solid in form. The following shows the template shape I came up with. Also shown beside it is the burl handle in its early stages if shaping.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0260_zpse9b0977f.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0260_zpse9b0977f.jpg.html)

You can see how I applied an inward curve to the bottom of the rail to cheek connection to maximise its potential strength.

I plan to fit a 16" x 3.5" (below the spine) x 0.025 blade, sharpened 13tpi rip tooth.

Will the handle look alright when finished. Too early to tell. New design.

Stewie;

[Richie Rich]

Hi. Some of you will remember seeing this photo I posted on the toothing plane build.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0257_zpsba6c8160.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0257_zpsba6c8160.jpg.html)

There was a good reason for selecting this wood to flatten its top face surface. Its being used for my next backsaw build. Now I am reasonably confident that this wood will be stable enough to use as a closed handle. But not enough to risk adding a traditional lambs tongue to the base of the cheek. Instead I have chosen to make this union much more solid in form. The following shows the template shape I came up with. Also shown beside it is the burl handle in its early stages if shaping.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0260_zpse9b0977f.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0260_zpse9b0977f.jpg.html)

You can see how I applied an inward curve to the bottom of the rail to cheek connection to maximise its potential strength.

I plan to fit a 16" x 3.5" (below the spine) x 0.025 blade, sharpened 13tpi rip tooth.

Will the handle look alright when finished. Too early to tell. New design.

Stewie;

Stewie, Do you ever sleep?,:U first you tease us with your plane and now another awesome saw in progress, I would just like enough time to read and get an understanding of all the facets of saw making
I reckon the handle will look amazing when complete, Cheers, Richie:2tsup::2tsup:

[FenceFurniture]

Looking good so far Stewie. How did the plane perform on that burl?

Just as a bit of an afterthought (and without wishing to rain on you plane parade) - would there be much difference in effort/time on a small piece like that if you used a couple of flat rasps (say a #6 followed by a #10)?

[planemaker]

Looking good so far Stewie. How did the plane perform on that burl?

Just as a bit of an afterthought (and without wishing to rain on you plane parade) - would there be much difference in effort/time on a small piece like that if you used a couple of flat rasps (say a #6 followed by a #10)?

The toothing plane performed exceptionally well. Couldn't be happier. I cant see why you wouldn't be able to do a similar job using a flat rasp, but it will be a slightly more difficult task compounded the narrower width of the rasp. But its doable. As long as you complete the flattening process on a sheet of glass with a coarse sandpaper adhered to it you should be fine. Just periodically highlight the face surface of the wood with a pencil to highlight your progress. Before flattening the opposite face of the blank, scribe your final target thickness on all 4 sides with a marking gauge.

Stewie;

[planemaker]

Thanks for the feedback Richie. With luck the handle should turn out just fine. Got ta think positive.

Stewie;

[Simplicity]

Looks to be another great saw
Stewie,
But what do you do with so many great saws ????

[planemaker]

Looks to be another great saw
Stewie,
But what do you do with so many great saws ????

Too early to tell Matt but I am sure it will turn out okay.

The Burdekin Plum Backsaw and any after that I will be offering for sale.

Here is a reminder of that Burdekin Plum Saw.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Frankenhandle/DSC_0211_zps0e51b4db.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/Frankenhandle/DSC_0211_zps0e51b4db.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Frankenhandle/DSC_0213_zps283482a3.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/Frankenhandle/DSC_0213_zps283482a3.jpg.html)

Stewie;

[planemaker]

I should have mentioned at the start of this post that its always a good idea to check the moisture level on the handle blank you are looking to use for your saw handle. The range I prefer to work with is 6 - 8%. The following is an offcut that I checked with the meter. If its too high I seal the edges with a wax and leave it to dry out further.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0264_zpsc12ea928.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0264_zpsc12ea928.jpg.html)

I have made some reasonable progress on the burl handle. As you can see the handle grip and finger hole are now rounded off, and the blade slot has been completed.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0265_zps390c4e00.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0265_zps390c4e00.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0266_zps206c35ca.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0266_zps206c35ca.jpg.html)

Before I round off the cheek line, the spine mortise needs to be formed.


Stewie;

[IanW]

Full marks for giving it a go, Stewie. I've thought about using burl wood for a handle, it would look spectacular, but have always hesitated because the grain just goes every which way, & I am fearful they'd be just too fragile for everyday use. But as I've said elsewhere, the grain of the 'lamb tongue' is always hopelessly 'wrong', even on straight-grained stock, no matter how you lay out your handle, and yet they seem to survive the ravages of time remarkably well. So chances are, your burl handle will be no more susceptible to failure than any other. Time will tell.... :U

Cheers,

[planemaker]

Thanks for the feedback Ian. As you would have noticed I have taken a different direction from using a traditional lambs tongue, opting for something that I believe will be a much stronger union to suit the burl timber being used for the handle. My personal view, the traditional lambs tongue has served an important role in the past by providing addition strength to the backsaw handle. It or a similar union such as seen on this handle should be seen as a worthy addition within the handles design. Especially suited for larger sized blade assemblies.

regards Stewie.

[planemaker]

Completed the spine mortise, the cheek rounding, as well as cut and assembled the blade & spine. The tooth length for this backsaw is 16", with a 3 1/2" depth below the spine. Progressing nicely.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0268_zps097db571.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0268_zps097db571.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0269_zps0c90d7ca.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0269_zps0c90d7ca.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0270_zpsac37569e.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0270_zpsac37569e.jpg.html)

[FenceFurniture]

That looks like it'll come up a treat with some finish Stewie. Shellac?

[planemaker]

That looks like it'll come up a treat with some finish Stewie. Shellac?

Yes that's right. Garnet shellac.

Stewie;

[IanW]

Stewie, what size brass flat are you using for the spine on this saw? A couple of people want to make longer saws than I've made before, and I think 3/4 x 1/4 is a bit light for saws over 300mm, what size do you think is most appropriate?

Cheers,

[planemaker]

Stewie, what size brass flat are you using for the spine on this saw? A couple of people want to make longer saws than I've made before, and I think 3/4 x 1/4 is a bit light for saws over 300mm, what size do you think is most appropriate?

Cheers,

Hi Ian. IMO there is enough weight in 3/4 x 1/4 brass to suit a spine for backsaws with lengths of 12" and above. Because we are dealing with a saw that is primarily designed to be used for deeper cuts I would also suggest that compared to that of a smaller saw, a slightly heavier set would be a requirement to greater assist the saw blade from binding within the kerf. The correct ppi and tooth shape is another important factor to this backsaws peformance, and I will need to make a serious judgement on that when I get nearer to that stage.

Stewie;

[RayG]

Hi Stewie,

No doubt about it, you saws just get better and better... I want a workshop calendar with that burl handled saw :D

On the question of spine weight, I've done 14" with 3/4 x 1/4 spine and it feels ok. On the other hand, if you want to try out a heavier spine, just let me know and I'll slit some for you.

The 14" one was with 20 thou plate as well, it cut like a laser. :)

There's still 30 meters of 3/4 x 3/8 brass sitting in my workshop that George White delivered by mistake... I'm hoping they can pick it up next week.

Ray

PS.. I'm hoping to be back making saws soon.

[planemaker]

Hi Stewie,

No doubt about it, you saws just get better and better... I want a workshop calendar with that burl handled saw :D

On the question of spine weight, I've done 14" with 3/4 x 1/4 spine and it feels ok. On the other hand, if you want to try out a heavier spine, just let me know and I'll slit some for you.

The 14" one was with 20 thou plate as well, it cut like a laser. :)

There's still 30 meters of 3/4 x 3/8 brass sitting in my workshop that George White delivered by mistake... I'm hoping they can pick it up next week.

Ray

PS.. I'm hoping to be back making saws soon.

Hi Ray. Look forward to when you get back into some backsaw builds.

regards; Stewie.

[planemaker]

The shellac finish has been completed to the handle.

Each of the surface defects seen in the photo's have been treated with Cyanoacrylate adhesive to maximise their integrity.


Next is to shape the brass back .

Stewie;


http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0273_zps626b6dd9.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0273_zps626b6dd9.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0274_zps2de28d24.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0274_zps2de28d24.jpg.html)

[Simplicity]

Stewie
There not surface defects
There character part off the one that makes a whole.
It's looking great
Makes me want to start making another saw

[FenceFurniture]

Yeah, very nice indeed Stewie. As Matt says, it's all character.

[planemaker]

Completed the shaping of the brass back. A brass darkening solution was also applied to enrich the patina.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0275_zps67b4c0ad.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0275_zps67b4c0ad.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0276_zps2e2b0c28.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0276_zps2e2b0c28.jpg.html)

[RayG]

Hi Stewie,

Looks good!

What was the brass darkening solution? I read somewhere that garlic will darken brass. ( plus keeps the vampires away from your saws :) )

Ray

[planemaker]

Hi Stewie,

Looks good!

What was the brass darkening solution? I read somewhere that garlic will darken brass. ( plus keeps the vampires away from your saws :) )

Ray

Birchwood Casey Brass Black.

[planemaker]

The brass back has been bonded in place with a full length bead of Loctite on both sides of the saw plate. That will prevent the possibility of corrosion ever taking hold within the section of saw plate inside the slot.

As I am wanting a slight aged appearance to the backsaw, I have treated the saw plate with Cold Metal Blue, that's then been rubbed back to a lighter hue 30 min after application. The saw plate is then well soaked in WD-40 to stop further blueing. When fully complete the saw plate assembly will be thoroughly rubbed down with a buffed soft paste wax.

I will leave the assembled backsaw hanging to fully dry off, until I am ready to apply masking tape to each side of the saw plate and start hand filing the saw teeth. Yep. The old traditional way.

The masking tape will protect the saw plate from being scratched while positioned in the saw sharpening vise.

With a 16 inch tooth line this is the longest and deepest of any of my previous backsaw builds.


Stewie;


http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0281_zps13167920.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0281_zps13167920.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0283_zps1e385e67.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0283_zps1e385e67.jpg.html)

[planemaker]

Time to shape the saw teeth.

1st job is to adhere the 13 ppi template to the top edge of the saw plate followed by masking to tape to each side to protect the plate from being scratched while installed in the saw sharpening vise.

After that its time to notch the ppi spacing with the V point of the file facing directly down. I repeat this step twice to make sure I have formed a good seat for each tooth.

The paper template is then removed and the notched spacing are coated with blue marking dykem. The 1st 2 teeth at the heel end of the plate are being left untouched as this corner edge will cut off at an angle later on.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0284_zps893a1e97.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0284_zps893a1e97.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0285_zps4f06052b.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0285_zps4f06052b.jpg.html)

The file holder is then adjusted to a 10 degree Rake Angle ready to shape the saw teeth.

I add a full stroke of the file to each tooth; reapply the Dykem marker and repeat the same step. This continues up until I start to see the odd tooth getting close to losing its flat spot. From that point these and other teeth that progress to the same stage are missed during the full runs of filing.

In the following photo I have started my final run of shaping the teeth.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0286_zps9cc3fd2f.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0286_zps9cc3fd2f.jpg.html)

When complete I will then reapply the Dykem marker and give the teeth a light jointing with a flat file to insure all the points of teeth are at the same height.


Stewie;

[code4pay]

When complete I will then reapply the Dykem marker and give the teeth a light jointing with a flat file to insure all the points of teeth are at the same height.


Stewie;

Then sharpen again?

[planemaker]

Then sharpen again?

I am still to complete the last run of the shaping stage. I will then do a light jointing. Then I will sharpen each tooth to point. Last to do will be to apply the set.


Stewie;

[planemaker]

Saw teeth sharpened and set.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0292_zps508f0575.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0292_zps508f0575.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0291_zps8ca37140.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0291_zps8ca37140.jpg.html)

Now to test the saw and see how it performs.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0294_zps1de482dd.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/myrtle%20burl%20backsaw/DSC_0294_zps1de482dd.jpg.html)

The kerf is nice and tight, and it follows a straight line well. A properly sharpened saw delivers a much higher pitch with each stoke compared to that which is poorly done. This backsaw delivers the right pitch so its a sharpening job that's been well done.


Stewie; http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowyes.gif

[FenceFurniture]

That looks tremendous Stewie - a grand job indeed!

The brass and steel treatment works very, very well with the burl. It essentially looks as old as anything, but kept in really fine condition.

[planemaker]

That looks tremendous Stewie - a grand job indeed!

The brass and steel treatment works very, very well with the burl. It essentially looks as old as anything, but kept in really fine condition.

Thanks Brett. I am extremely pleased with the look and performance of this saw build. Lots of time and energy spent. Took a gamble using the burl wood. But with the unique saw handle design I came up with it worked out just fine.

Stewie; :2tsup:

[RayG]

Nice work Stewie, it looks like all the things you were trying out, worked out just perfectly.. the burl, the patina, the longer spine.. all adds up to another success. :2tsup:

Ray

[planemaker]

Nice work Stewie, it looks like all the things you were trying out, worked out just perfectly.. the burl, the patina, the longer spine.. all adds up to another success. :2tsup:

Ray

Thanks Ray.

[Richie Rich]

That is beautiful Stewie, You must have quite a collection of awesome saws now,:U, Cheers, Richie:2tsup::2tsup:

[Ron Bontz]

Nice job on the saw Stewie. The patina goes well with the burl. A different look indeed.

[chambezio]

Stewy your expertise with a saw file is very evident. Its not easy to sharpen a saw and have the teeth as even as yours. Very, very good. I don't know whether I will be game enough to put up photos of my efforts with a few back saws that I want to do. Your saw needs to have its own little screed telling how and when it was made for your grand kids muse over. I think its got "Heirloom Status"

[FenceFurniture]

I don't know whether I will be game enough to put up photos of my efforts with a few back saws that I want to do.Well, the pressure is going to be on soon - Ken just picked up your kit......:;

[chambezio]

Oh....I can feel the strain. I hope you gave him a guided tour of your heated shed,Brett,

[planemaker]

Stewy your expertise with a saw file is very evident. Its not easy to sharpen a saw and have the teeth as even as yours. Very, very good. I don't know whether I will be game enough to put up photos of my efforts with a few back saws that I want to do. Your saw needs to have its own little screed telling how and when it was made for your grand kids muse over. I think its got "Heirloom Status"

Thanks for the comments Rod. No plans to keep hold of this backsaw. It will be offered for sale.

Stewie;

[Bushmiller]

Stewie

That saw is just superb!

Regards
Paul

[planemaker]

The Burl Handled Backsaw has been sold to a N.S.W. member of this forum.

Thank you for all your kind feedback.

regards, Stewie.

[Sawdust Maker]

Hey

Just saw this thread - not sure how I missed it before :doh:

But that is one exceptionally well crafted saw - well done :2tsup:





drool

[FenceFurniture]

I had the pleasure of seeing this saw in my flesh today. It looks fabulous, and the finish on the handle feels superb. As was the original intention, it looks like a really old saw kept in superb condition.

It would be interesting to put it in front of an expert in 5-10 years time (when it has a bit of "real" patina) and see what analysis they came up with as to it's age.....

[planemaker]

I had the pleasure of seeing this saw in my flesh today. It looks fabulous, and the finish on the handle feels superb. As was the original intention, it looks like a really old saw kept in superb condition.

It would be interesting to put it in front of an expert in 5-10 years time (when it has a bit of "real" patina) and see what analysis they came up with as to it's age.....

Thanks for the feedback Brett. Good to hear the patina achieved its objective. I would be interested in also hearing some feedback on how the saw performed when put to work.

regards; Stewie.

[ozhunter]

I'm the fortunate recipient of this saw.

I haven't had a chance to use it in battle yet, but I've been making some test cuts today and it saws a lot better than I can.

It feels good in the hand and balances nicely. The finish is exceptional. The ageing processes used work very well. It looks a lot older than it is.

It'll probably get a good solid run when I start my bench, but for now the test cuts leave this mug very happy.:2tsup:

[Bushmiller]

I'm the fortunate recipient of this saw.

I haven't had a chance to use it in battle yet, but I've been making some test cuts today and it saws a lot better than I can.

It feels good in the hand and balances nicely. The finish is exceptional. The ageing processes used work very well. It looks a lot older than it is.

It'll probably get a good solid run when I start my bench, but for now the test cuts leave this mug very happy.:2tsup:

OzH

Half your luck. You've scored a beauty there. Glad to hear it won't just be hung up on the wall with all the others, but used. If I make it to the next GTG I'll remind you to bring it along so I can have a look in the flesh (at the saw..at the saw!)

Regards
Paul

[ozhunter]

OzH

Half your luck. You've scored a beauty there. Glad to hear it won't just be hung up on the wall with all the others, but used. If I make it to the next GTG I'll remind you to bring it along so I can have a look in the flesh (at the saw..at the saw!)

Regards
Paul

Glad you clarified that Paul, I know what FF has got in the barn if things start appearing that shouldn't, and it's French.

It will definitley be used.

[Bushmiller]

Glad you clarified that Paul, I know what FF has got in the barn if things start appearing that shouldn't, and it's French.

It will definitley be used.

Oh no, not the French reamer! (Makes mental note: Must impress upon FF to forward potentially invasive WW tools as matter of urgency.) :D

Regards
Paul

[FenceFurniture]

:spyme:

[Bushmiller]

:spyme:

"Awl in Awl,
It's just a,
nuvver brick in der wawl."

Regards
Paul