prefered finish

[Osage]

G'day all hope alls well out there , I've been trying a few different finishes on some bowls and spindle work such as glow,shellawax and beeswax etc.. I found myself pondering the thought ,what is everyone's ideal or favourite finish and why they like it so much , looking forward to hear from u all and hopefully learn a thing or two along the way
cheers all osage. ..

[chuck1]

I'm a fan of glow I also use shellac ( French polish) and a few oils like Scandinavian and Danish oil.
on food items I. Use food safe plus and butchers block conditioner

[dougturner]

Osage, I use EEE and then Shellawax, but have only been using it for a short time, and have had some nice results. My favourite finish is actually Penetrol Wood Oil which comes in various size tins, and the preferred size I buy is 500mls. I then decant it into as small bottles as I can so as not to have a 250ml tin go to jelly on me half way through. I store the small bottles away from light in a cupboard, and use each small bottle completely before starting on the next. Small amounts do still go to jelly, but I just wash the bottle out with turps, and reuse it when I buy another 250ml tin. It can be bought off the shelf at our local Masters store and other places, but Bunnings will order it in for you. The method I use is described on the following page of the Sydney Woodturners web site, which is

http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/finishing/oil%20finishing.html

It is not the finish for everyone, but I am slowly gaining a few converts. Doug. :U

[Paul39]

I and my buyers prefer a soft baby skin surface which I get by sanding to 220, applying tung oil or tung oil finish with a rag, rub that in while turning on the lathe, let dry and wet sand with more tung oil and 320 grit, rub in more tung oil on a rag dampened with mineral spirits, let dry and buff with an old athletic sock.

The let dry part can be hastened by applying hot air from a hair dryer. Using the dryer I can get on three coats and be finished in 30 minutes.

More coats can be applied and will make a glossy finish. Not as shiny as spray lacquer.

See below for the soft finish.

[Christos]

For smaller items I use Shellawax glow and Shellawax cream. For larger items I like to use wipe on poly.

[mat_au]

I use Shellawax glow and Shellawax cream, danish oil. But my fav is eddies shine juice, its easy to make and gives a nice finish. 1/3 clear shellac 1/3 boiled lindseed oil and 1/3 metho. i mix the shellac and the lindseed oil in a bottle at 50/50 then when i need some add it to a smaller bottle and add the metho , cheap easy and great finish

here is a link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taJbBmcaAZQ

[dr4g0nfly]

Small items for me is a carnauba wax for a high gloss finish from a buffing system, larger items one of the various oils depending upon the end use.

[Mobyturns]

Its horses for courses for me, I use - raw timber for some toys esp young children / infants; orange shellac for general toys; blonde shellac for higher end big kids toys (lin lam spinning tops) and "difficult" woods; Minwax Wipe on Poly satin or gloss for some utility items (jewelry stands etc); Danish Oil for furniture, bowls, furniture items; Organ Oil - High Speed Burnishing Oil for furniture, bowls & utility items; CA for pens (though not my favourite); Shellawax Glow for demo items etc; EEE alone for very dense "oily" timbers - gidgee etc; Nitro Cellulose lacquer for furniture, show or competition items and pens, spin tops etc. Finishes like Flood's Penetrol can produce astounding very long lasting results.

Some of the custom BLO (boiled linseed oil) mixes produce excellent results for translucent items, though not one I have had success with in FNQ. Kelly Dunn in Hawaii produces excellent finishes, second to none, with his mix.

I believe it pays to learn to use all finishing techniques and perhaps master a few. Each has advantages in particular applications & a devotee in the market place or a market niche so get to know about as many as you can to not limit your potential markets. Many turners underestimate the value of old world finishes and particularly the value of shellac as a sealer and undercoat as most "film" finishes will stick to shellac over "difficult" timbers like beefwood. Also consider the "repairability" of finishes in particular applications and don't get to hung up about "food safe" finishes.

[jefferson]

I turn mostly platters and lidded boxes and spray the lot with 30% gloss nitrocellulose. I've tried and tried my best to get glow to work. I've seen it done very well and have no idea what my problem is - maybe the size of the platters, which are typically large. I just can't get rid of the rings out the outside edges of the platters. And I know it can be done, so that frustrates me even more. Every time I see Neil demo it, I get in line but to no avail.

I also had some fruit go off on one of my platters coated with glow and the yucky stuff ruined the finish. I used to spray my redgum platters at 30% but now I ask, at least on commissioned pieces, how much gloss they actually want. Quite a few are saying 50% or even 70%. Product is called um... Stylewood.

But Mobyturn's (Geoff''s) advice about learning all methods rings true. Some people, for example, like oil and I don't use it or know how to. Food safe oil excepted.

[powderpost]

Mobyturns; Also consider the "repairability" of finishes in particular applications and don't get to hung up about "food safe" finishes.[/QUOTE]

For small items, Ubeaut Glow, for a finish in the lathe. For most other stuff sprayed 60% lacquer. Lacquer can be cut back with OOOO steel wool for a matt or low sheen and then buffed up with EEE. Walnut oil for cooking utensils.

Jim

[TTIT]

Repairability is a BIG factor in my choice of finish and I've tried pretty much the whole lot. I don't have the time or energy to list all the reasons why but there is only one finish in my kit these days - Kunos Oil. :cool: Nuff said!

[ogato]

I use Kunos Natural Oil Sealer #244 for the bowls I make - easy to use; beautiful finish while retaining the tactile/textural feel of wood; excellent consistent results.

Jeff

[Drillit]

I turn mostly platters and lidded boxes and spray the lot with 30% gloss nitrocellulose. I've tried and tried my best to get glow to work. I've seen it done very well and have no idea what my problem is - maybe the size of the platters, which are typically large. I just can't get rid of the rings out the outside edges of the platters. And I know it can be done, so that frustrates me even more. Every time I see Neil demo it, I get in line but to no avail.

I also had some fruit go off on one of my platters coated with glow and the yucky stuff ruined the finish. I used to spray my redgum platters at 30% but now I ask, at least on commissioned pieces, how much gloss they actually want. Quite a few are saying 50% or even 70%. Product is called um... Stylewood.

But Mobyturn's (Geoff''s) advice about learning all methods rings true. Some people, for example, like oil and I don't use it or know how to. Food safe oil excepted.

Hello Jeff,
Is stylewood still available. I had heard that you couldnt get it anymore. Can you help with any details, please. I havent been able to get it for some time. Thanks, John M.

[Osage]

Cheers for all the info and feedback everyone it's all very good for building up the knowledge bank

[jefferson]

Hello Jeff,
Is stylewood still available. I had heard that you couldnt get it anymore. Can you help with any details, please. I havent been able to get it for some time. Thanks, John M.

Drillit, I haven't bought Stylewood since Xmas. If it's not on the market anymore, I'm in trouble and will have to source another supplier of NC. Damn!

[corbs]

+1 for Kunos Oil. Very very easy to apply, gives a beautiful silky smooth finish, smells purdy and is foodsafe :2tsup:

[Mulgabill]

Wattyl Stylwood still appears in the Wattyl Industrial dogalogue!