Afro Boy 3rd July 2014, 06:34 PM Hi Metalworkers,
I'm currently building a large timber desk and thinking legs similar to this might suit. Does anyone know where I could get something like this made up? Also, would you recommend 10mm thick aluminium or steel would be better suited?
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I'm based in Melbourne (on the Mornington Peninsula but happy to travel a bit for this).
Any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Af.
RayG 3rd July 2014, 07:50 PM Hi Af,
Seeing you are down that way you could call into Action Aluminium and see if any of their stock extrusions would meet your needs.
They are in Greens Road Dandenong, see Action Aluminium (http://actionaluminium.com.au)
As far as your design goes, it might need some bracing or something lengthwise to stop it from racking.
Ray
Afro Boy 3rd July 2014, 08:03 PM Thanks Ray. I'll give them a call tomorrow.
Thinking that the legs will run a full square/rectangle so they will also brace the top itself.
Cheers,
Af.
Acco 4th July 2014, 12:16 AM You state 10mm for thickness but what width?
If you can't find anyone else closer, I can do what you require in steel or alumimuin.
GSRocket 5th July 2014, 01:07 PM !0mm steel with a suitable width, would do it and you can bend it without it fracturing or loosing strength.
With aluminum, I just don't think 10mm would do it. I work a little bit with 6mm aluminium and 6mm steel and it doesn't come anywhere close to steel for rigidity or strength.
It also fractures very easily when making bends, even with carefully applied heat so it might be better to cut and weld
the bends at the base. With steel those bends would be considerably easier. Steel of course will be much heavier and make it
more difficult to move around, if there was a need.
As someone mentioned, you might have trouble with flexing or wobble but the could depend on the use of the desk. How much weight will be placed on it. If it was placed against a wall or fixed to a wall it might not be a problem at all.
clear out 5th July 2014, 09:52 PM If you are using solid timber remember to allow for movement with slotted holes etc.
H.
Afro Boy 5th July 2014, 11:21 PM If you can't find anyone else closer, I can do what you require in steel or alumimuin.
Thanks for the offer Acco. Will see how I go and might call on you if I can't find any other options nearby.
!0mm steel with a suitable width, would do it and you can bend it without it fracturing or loosing strength.
As someone mentioned, you might have trouble with flexing or wobble but the could depend on the use of the desk. How much weight will be placed on it. If it was placed against a wall or fixed to a wall it might not be a problem at all.
Thanks Rocket. The top is three pieces of large slabbed timber, 40mm thick and around 2m long too so quite heavy. I can easily brace it against the wall so reduce any wobble, but will wait to see how it turns out before doing something like that.
If you are using solid timber remember to allow for movement with slotted holes etc.
Yep, will absolutely be doing this. I've used self-made buttons before to affix tabletops to their bases and they've worked very well. Am thinking something similar with this setup or making slotted holes like you suggest in the legs to allow for that movement.
Didn't get a chance to shop around last week but will try this week. Will post my results for anyone else you might be interested (and of course some pics as I progress the project).
Cheers,
Af.
GSRocket 6th July 2014, 05:23 PM =Afro Boy;1788307
Thanks Rocket. The top is three pieces of large slabbed timber, 40mm thick and around 2m long too so quite heavy. I can easily brace it against the wall so reduce any wobble, but will wait to see how it turns out before doing something like that.
Af.
That's a nice solid bench :)
I'm wondering if the legs made from flat steel would really be adequate. I guess it will depend on how wide the bench will be.
I guess you want the legs like that for the 'look', But I fear that they will flex. Even it was say, 120mm x 10mm I think flexing
would still be a problem.
Michael G 6th July 2014, 05:27 PM I'm more worried about the weight - a metre of 10x100mm steel bar is 7.8kg...
Michael
RayG 6th July 2014, 05:58 PM What about aluminium scaffold/painters extrusion? Supposed to handle 245kg load on 2.6m length
Weld up two squares and run a length on edge down the middle to join the two squares.
I have a feeling I've seen right angle joining pieces for that sort of extrusion, but can't remember where I saw them.. If you could find those, then you'd just about avoid welding.
Ray
neksmerj 6th July 2014, 07:04 PM Many years ago when I could afford an oxy set, I made a coffee table of exactly this design. My table is only 1500 mm long x 500 mm wide and stands 500 mm high.
The legs are made of 50 x 6 ms heated and bent at the floor in a tight radius. Plates were welded to the tops of the legs for attachment to the 25 mm veneered top edge thickened to 30 mm.
It is extremely stable with no flex any where. The legs after fabrication were chrome plated for the look and to prevent rust.
I reckon 100 mm x 10 mm would be more than adequate, perhaps a bit over kill, still, it's the look you are after.
I don't have enough light right now to take a snap but could tomorrow if you like.
Ken
Afro Boy 6th July 2014, 07:55 PM Thanks again for all the advice folks. I'm finding it really useful. Much appreciated.
It is extremely stable with no flex any where. The legs after fabrication were chrome plated for the look and to prevent rust.
I reckon 100 mm x 10 mm would be more than adequate, perhaps a bit over kill, still, it's the look you are after.
I don't have enough light right now to take a snap but could tomorrow if you like.
That's great to hear Ken, re. lack of flex. I haven't settled on the specific dimensions of the legs yet but will get a better idea once the top is glued up. Would love to see a pic of your table.
Cheers,
Af.
Oldneweng 6th July 2014, 10:53 PM I'm more worried about the weight - a metre of 10x100mm steel bar is 7.8kg...
Michael
I am more concerned with what I could do with all that steel. A couple of bits of bed frame angle would cover the legs issue, then get on to fabricating some real stuff. :D
Dean
Afro Boy 4th August 2014, 09:19 PM Hi folks,
Thanks everyone for the advice and thoughts. Finally got around to cutting the top to size and ordering the steel legs.
Will post some pics next week once they're arrived and I've had a chance to fit them.
Cheers,
Af.
Afro Boy 12th August 2014, 05:22 PM Picking up the legs tomorrow and they'll be raw steel, not coated or anything.
The guys told me they'll have a bit of a black muck on them which I can easily wipe off with some mineral spirits. I'm wondering what I should coat the legs in to keep them from rusting? I prefer a natural grey/silver colour and a matt finish. Is there a varnish or simple treatment I can give it myself?
Cheers,
Af.
neksmerj 12th August 2014, 08:47 PM I reckon a satin chrome finish would look smicko, also solves the rust problem
Ken
Afro Boy 12th August 2014, 09:37 PM Thanks Ken. Would that be something I can buy in a can and paint on?
Oh, and here's the top, just waiting for the legs.
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Ben Dono 15th August 2014, 05:56 AM Nice one mate! It looks like your little shed buddy approves as well.
Their are going to be a lot of opinions on the finish....at the end of the day it needs to suit you.
The two fall back finishes I always go for with timber furniture is the 'brushed stainless steel' look if you want to make it a feature or black if you want the woodwork to be the feature.
The stainless steel look will hide the dust down the line!
The black finish will hide the rust if you live close to the sea.
Hot dipped gal could be a good look. The legs are a bit industrial looking... You could dull the colour slightly with some coloured furniture wax.
I was surprised on how cheap hot gal coating is.
Does marine spar varnish stick to raw metal? It's probably the easiest of the tougher coatings to apply from a tin can.
Afro Boy 15th August 2014, 06:47 PM Thanks everyone for the advice. I went with a black finish with some silver speckles in it. Not sure what it's called but seeing it all in situ now, I think I like it.
Here's a crappy pic of the finish:
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Here's how I attached the leg to the underside of the bench. This way, the timber has plenty of room to move but remains firmly attached to the legs. I have four of these "buttons" for each leg. The shadows make them look like they're on a jaunty angle, but they sit (almost) flush and hold the top to the leg quite solidly.
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The final result, with the Inspector General for reference. LOML is most impressed that I am now off the kitchen table for work. :roll:
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Cheers,
Af.
Ben Dono 16th August 2014, 07:34 AM Mate, the finish on the legs looks bang on! It suits the timber top and fits in the room very well.
Not that I'm knocking it but are the fasteners for the legs strong enough? I'm only asking this because I suffer from over building everything...and I really mean 'suffer'!
One of the questions I always asked myself when I was making something for a customer was how will they miss use it, and can I make this strong enough so they (and myself) don't need to worry about that. This table is going to last a very long time and I doubt you will be the only one to use it.
It looks like a heavy top and legs as well as it being in a corner but the length of the legs looks like a pry bar on small screws. It's the racking loads with this design of table you need to be concerned about.
Mind you, I'm far from being an engineer! That's why I always make things much stronger than they need to be.
You could make up some metal plates that fit over the legs and over size the holes for lag bolts and stacked washers. That way your fixing through metal and the over size holes and washers will allow for timber movement.
Welding the plates to the top bar is better but you will probably get away with the clamping force of the plate. It won't take away from the look of the table either as it's still hidden enough on the underside.
On the flip side, the fixings could be completely adequate.
All in all, it's a pretty awesome job you have done. This fits nicely in the modern designer furniture category!
andrew7 16th August 2014, 09:51 AM That looks pretty sweet!
george mavridis 16th August 2014, 09:54 AM Very stylish
Afro Boy 18th August 2014, 06:50 PM Thanks everyone. I've been using it for the past few days and it's working out great so far. :)
You could make up some metal plates that fit over the legs and over size the holes for lag bolts and stacked washers. That way your fixing through metal and the over size holes and washers will allow for timber movement.
Thanks for that. There is a tiny bit of wracking, but nothing I'm overly concerned about (yet). If I find I need to tighten the buttons over time, I might go with your idea of making something more solid, perhaps even a metal bracket with slotted holes to allow for expansion. Nice thinking. :)
Cheers,
Af.
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