waldown NH3 parts required

[eskimo]

In the Herbert hi-speed resto thread Joe asked for pics of my NH3 parts requirement, so rather than hijack mgtoolmakers thread here they are

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pic 1 is looking down onto spindle drive pulley
pic 2 is is left side of spindle housing
pic 3 is looking up from table into spindle housing
pic 4 you will need to laydown on your left side...its the ride side of the spindle housing where the pinion, handle, spokes etc etc would be

I want..err need all the bits that fit in there except the drive stuff...bearings I can buy of the shelf.
Brobo threw all the parts out a few years ago.....apparently, or so they said when I enquired

an option...stick it on fleabay as is....lol

[jhovel]

So would you go to the effort of making the missing parts if you had the details?
Let me know as I'd be prepared to dismember mine and either draw them up or send them to you to copy.

[eskimo]

So would you go to the effort of making the missing parts if you had the details?
Let me know as I'd be prepared to dismember mine and either draw them up or send them to you to copy.


mmm I think I have found my parts......."Let me know as I'd be prepared to dismember mine and send them to you"......WOW what a offer
can anyone else can see any other words..?

I have thought about it often, and it keeps sitting in the corner,..mainly due to the fact there is so much else I want and need to do..like making cannons.:D

I am thinking that I will do it but when I retire...in about another 2 years...need to get my son thru his apprenticeship, so I have to keep working to do that.

Thanks for offer Joe, but not yet...wait till I retire..it aint going anywhere unless I get offered a good price for it

[jhovel]

Ok, it will still be here in two years' time...

[KBs PensNmore]

So would you go to the effort of making the missing parts if you had the details?
Let me know as I'd be prepared to dismember mine and either draw them up or send them to you to copy.

WOW Joe that's a fantastic offer, that's what I like about this forum, people helping one an other.:2tsup:
Kryn

[Ropetangler]

WOW Joe that's a fantastic offer, that's what I like about this forum, people helping one an other.:2tsup:
Kryn

+1 from me too Joe and Kryn. A very generous offer and the spirit in which it is made is what makes this forum really great, WELL DONE!:2tsup:
Rob.
PS. If you do end up doing the drawings of the parts Joe, hopefully they might end up in some sort of archive or a sticky posting, for future rebuilders. RG.

[jhovel]

Thanks guys. Others here have gone out of their way for me. That's how it works....

With all this talk about NHs, I had a closer look at mine since I wanted to put it back to 3-phase - given the recent purchase of a very cheap caseless VFD...
So I pulled the original motor out from under the bench and removed the single phase motor (which looked all wrong anyway - too tall).
This is what it looked like before the change to single phase:
319489
...definitely just a 3-wire star connection....
Here is the 4-speed belt and pulley arrangement:
319490
Just to refresh, this is the only NH I have ever seen with a separate table and low base:
319495
Here is the 3-phase motor back on, after a very uneventful finding of the star point and bringing the three wires out into the terminal box. Meggered at 80MOhms at 1000V...
I screwed the VFD to the side of the cast iron terminal/switch box and wired it all up (control wires to an emergency switch and relocated potentiometer to go). I'll make up a slim sheetmetal enclosure of just the electronics and leave the entire aluminium heatsink out in the open. I'll then fit the latching mushroom switch and pot into the front face of that. I'll take a photo when completed. Should sort of blend in with a lick of matching paint.
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Anyway, it works like a charm. The motor starts at 1.5Hz even in top 'gear' and runs smoothly up to 100Hz. That's the limit I set because the motor has a sheetmetal fan with bent-up fins. I don't want to tempt that into deforming....
Theoretically, that puts the spindle at 24000rpm :o

:U

[jhovel]

This is a little hijack of the thread, sorry Eskimo.....
While I had all the tools and 'stuff' on the bench for extracting star points, I finished off a couple more motors that had been half disassembled for a while....
First is the little 1/2Hp 1425rpm. I mentioned the other day that it had wasp nests right through all the cooling channels. It needed finishing off.
Since this one was going to be tricky, to help find the star point, I took some photos at the time (which you can blow up on the computer for a closer look). Might help someone else along the way.
All the connections between coils were in braided sleeves and all tucked into a very narrow space between the coils and the stator housing. I had to cut a lot of the ties and gently lift out several of the sleeves to find the star point tucked underneath a bundle of these sleeves.
This motor had some kind of grease film over everything inside and out - it came from the local woolen mill. Might be lanolin.... wipes off with white spirits easily though.
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It's got to be in here somewhere.... The wasps had fun in the cooling channels - poked most of their nests out already.
319501
Ah, here it is... the sleeve across the centre was pushed in over the top of the 3-wire junction....
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3 new wires attached and being double shrink sleeved...
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brought out in the terminal box and connected in Delta mode to the existing 3 wires.
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All finished, tested and given a lick of paint after internal and external cleaning...
That's a little Siemens 1/2Hp VFD. The flash obsured the cover.
319507

This afternoon I continued on a big old 2.9Hp motor.
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That one was totally easy. Plenty of room to work and see and the 3-wire junction in plain view with long sleeved leads to join to. Tied everything up again (blue tape) and drenched it all in epoxy. The heatgun on low heat made the epoxy run into the fabric and into the coils properly and ensures nothing vibrates loose. I discovered that trick with the 1/2 Hp one - it's very cold here at the moment and the epoxy is quite stiff.
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Back to the original thread.....

[eskimo]

This is a little hijack of the thread, sorry Eskimo.....



No problems Joe

Your NH hasnt had the head put on another base has it?...your base definitely looks different to the drawings that Brobo sent me...could that explain why you also have a table?
319527

[eskimo]

5 page parts diags for earlier waldowns

[jhovel]

My guess is that the Bendigo Ordinance Factory in its day asked Waldown to assemble it this way - rather than mixing and matching parts of machines themselves. However, the table is a fixed one - no rotation. Maybe that was used on a different model again?
The machine was built on a strudy wooden cupboard painted the same colour as the drill press.

[eskimo]

My guess is that the Bendigo Ordinance Factory in its day asked Waldown to assemble it this way - rather than mixing and matching parts of machines themselves. However, the table is a fixed one - no rotation. Maybe that was used on a different model again?
The machine was built on a strudy wooden cupboard painted the same colour as the drill press.

it looks like it has the base of the 8SN?

[jhovel]

Yes, it does, but it's smaller. Remember I recently restored one for my SIL. I compared them side by side. But both the table and the base look much bigger than they need to be - the drill centre is nowhere near the middle of the table.

[Ropetangler]

5 page parts diags for earlier waldowns

Thanks Eskimo for the parts diagrams, these will be very helpful for re-builders of these drills.:2tsup: I hope that they can be given a space on the forum where they can be easily accessed, even years later - perhaps in some kind of machinery manuals area. My apologies in advance moderators and site owner if such a facility already exists, but if it doesn't, may I respectfully suggest that it might be an idea to have a section for manuals, drawings and layout diagrams for machines and components so that the info can be readily accessed.
Rob

[rogerbaker]

:U[/QUOTE]


Theoretically, that puts the spindle at 24000rpm :o


Hey Joe
That speed should be good for those .001mm drill bits.

Roger

[jhovel]

I had a go at drilling tiny holes on my Waldown - given the cahllenge :)
It didn't work well at all :C
THe first one I tried was 0.1mm.
I got it out of the packet and inserted into the chuck - and found the drill part on the end of the shank missing :o I obviously broke it off between packet and chuck. Couldn;t see it anywhere. About 20minutes later a rag caught on the side of my index finger. Closer examination found the missing drill bit almost entirely embedded in my finger. Never felt a thing. I pulled it out - still no sensation.....:B

Next try was a 0.25mm one. It shattered as soon as I touched the aluminium I tried to drill into.... bugger.....

OK so I gave up drilling aluminium with those drills - I wanted to keep the bigger ones in the set for printed circuits and so on.

So I tried a 0.9mm long series drill I have a few of - ordinary GOOD P&N drills.
No problems starting the hole and then going all the way through. THe drill bit flexed a bit and vibrated, but I could steady it by hand to stop that vibration.
Nice clean tiny hole.... and yes, drilled at 24000rpm.
320439 320438 320437

[eskimo]

drilled at 24000rpm.

do I really need a drill press that goes to 24000 rpm?:no:...maybe not...I can see me breaking lots of drills

[rogerbaker]

"Closer examination found the missing drill bit almost entirely embedded in my finger. Never felt a thing. I pulled it out - still no sensation.....http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/blush-anim-cl.gif"


See Joe, acupuncture is painless.

I suspect that your drilling setup is not rigid enough for those small drill bits. The material will deflect slightly and "ping" its gone.


Roger

[Techo1]

How much runout is in that chuck Joe? I think you will need a good keyless chuck if you want to drill small holes. By the way, why do you want to drill 0.1mm holes anyway, I have been "In the trade" for over 40 years and have never needed to drill anything that small.

Lex.

[jhovel]

Back from the other side of the globe....
To answer a couple of questions - even though late . No, I don't need to drill holes THAT small, but I intend to drill or resize carby jets with very small holes and ream them. Mostly the other small holes will be in printed circuit boards and 24000rpm is certainly not excessive for very small holes, though I will probably rarely turn up the wick that much as a rule.
The drill chuck in this drill has no runout I can measure at the 1/8" shank size that these little drills have. The 0.9mm long drill I used has no runout either that I could feel or see (not measured). The drill itself is designed for very small holes and exceedingly rigid. However, a look under the microscope showed some of the drills in this (cheap) kit astonishingly poorly sharpened, some with no clearance angle some not symetrical. You get what you pay for....
In any case, I'm very happy with the performance of this drill press.

[jhovel]

Just to keep the related information together in one thread.
Today I had a circlip break on the Waldown NH fr unknown reasons.
That required me to pull the spindle out.
So here is a photo of my spindle and downfeed as an exploded view in large scale for detail.
My spindle has two AC bearings back to back and a strong spring providing the preload. Interesting.
The replacement circlip is the little one just near the chuck. The parts are laid out in the order they go together.
It's all back together now and working nicely.
To get it out all that was required was loosening the grub screw which holds the lift spring housing in position, unwinding that carefully until the spindle dropped and then a little more to ensure no tension on the spring. The pulling the sping and housing off the the downfeed spindle.
Next pull the downfeed spindle out of the head casting. The spindle may then fall down - careful. That's it. Chuck off, pull actual spindle for inspection and photo. regrease, reassemble, fit new circlip, refit chuck, reistall. Done.
328717

[eskimo]

Just to keep the related information together in one thread.
Today I had a circlip break on the Waldown NH fr unknown reasons.
That required me to pull the spindle out.
So here is a photo of my spindle and downfeed as an exploded view in large scale for detail.
My spindle has two AC bearings back to back and a strong spring providing the preload. Interesting.
The replacement circlip is the little one just near the chuck. The parts are laid out in the order they go together.
It's all back together now and working nicely.
To get it out all that was required was loosening the grub screw which holds the lift spring housing in position, unwinding that carefully until the spindle dropped and then a little more to ensure no tension on the spring. The pulling the sping and housing off the the downfeed spindle.
Next pull the downfeed spindle out of the head casting. The spindle may then fall down - careful. That's it. Chuck off, pull actual spindle for inspection and photo. regrease, reassemble, fit new circlip, refit chuck, reistall. Done.
328717

where on earth did you find all my parts...lol...or did you have them and wasnt going to tell me

pic saved for future