preparing turning blanks

[soundman]

I'm in the middle of processing some logs, I'll be getting some boards out of it But I'm also thinking of preparing some turning blanks.

Whats the current go.
I do realise end/ total sealing is "probably wise"

whats usefull
full round bits of log
cross grain sections
long grain sticks

how far is it worthwhile to trim them.
I see a lot of commercial blancs that are round.

cheers

[rsser]

Just seal the endgrain.

Full logs will likely split from the pith even with the ends sealed.

For bowl blanks, cut the log to a length slightly greater that its diameter.

http://www.enter.net/~ultradad/logcutting.html

[gatiep]

Cut the length about 25% longer than the diameter of the log. Cut down the middle, slightly off the middle, then cut the "bigger" half again so that an approx 25 mm slice of the pith centre is removed. Cut an offcentre slice out if you can follow the pith, because leaving the pith will cause grief. Seal the ends immediately you have finished cutting it. Dont waste time as the first few hours is when the greatest moisture loss per time unit takes place. Cutting it about 25% longer than the diameter ensures that when you come to use it, you can remove the split ends and end up with an almost square block to turn round. If you are in a hurry, there is no harm in having the endcheck in a shallow container where you can just dunk the ends, instead of wasting time with a brush. Endcheck can be diluted with a bit of water, but don't go overboard. Before sealing write the date on the end with a texter....black on light wood and white paint pen on dark wood. Once the endcheck has dried you can read the date the logs were cut and sealed for future reference. Store the blanks in a cool, dry, place out of direct sunlight and wind. Stack them horizontally with a few sticks inbetween them so that they get ventilation all round, but you don't want them in a draught.

Enjoy turning your harvest!

[rsser]

Another option for sealing is to melt parrafin wax in an old electric frypan and dip the end grain in this. For smallish pieces of course.

[soundman]

Cheers
I have no problem with end seal I've got a bucket of liquid styro resin & I'm working on a second.
I gota get stuck into some processing soon.

[rsser]

What's that when it's at home?

[soundman]

Liquid styro is how I dispose of styrofoam packaging & seem to recieve in large amounts at times. 20 liter drum with snap seal lid, some thinner & add the styro. Melts down to a lovley clear syrup.
Seals ends realy well.

[martrix]

Liquid styro is how I dispose of styrofoam packaging & seem to recieve in large amounts at times. 20 liter drum with snap seal lid, some thinner & add the styro. Melts down to a lovley clear syrup.
Seals ends realy well.
strewth! don't get any naked flames near it!http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon9.gif

[Ian007]

Liquid styro is how I dispose of styrofoam packaging & seem to recieve in large amounts at times. 20 liter drum with snap seal lid, some thinner & add the styro. Melts down to a lovley clear syrup.
Seals ends realy well.

in my miss spent youth this is a lot like how we made our home made napalm :eek:

Ian :o

[soundman]

Blokes did all sorts of things in their mis-spent youth. :D http://www.ubeaut.biz/flamer.gif

I supose it would have a similar effect http://www.ubeaut.biz/traashcan.gif but it isn't realy like proper bathtub napalm. Anyway if you want that effect quick just pour out some spray glue.

Curiously the formular for "proper" naplam is very similar to that for cheap hand cleaner.

Disolving styro in solvent is a slow & http://www.ubeaut.biz/zzzsleep.gifboring way to get the effect anyway.

The things we could get away with when we were lads. :o
cheers