PDA

View Full Version : 2-stage duct collection kit



Wongo
24th June 2005, 11:52 AM
Here is what you need:
•A garage bin
•4 wheels
•3 old mouse pads
•A DC connector and elbow
•2 pieces of plywood


It is fairly easy to make and you can probably figure it out by looking at the pictures. As you can see in pic 4 and 5, I tested it on 10 litres wood chip and the result is better then I expected. There might have been some fine duct in the DC but visually 100% of the woods were in the bin.

And it will fit almost any round garage bin. The bin just sits nicely between 2 pieces of ply.

Do you like it? :)

bitingmidge
24th June 2005, 12:16 PM
Like it???? Yep it's triffic!!

And this on top of last night's big clean up of the shed 'cause I've been too lazy to wheel the DC from the thicknesser to the Bandsaw to the sander, then when I did, I pulled the thing by the flexi connection, and didn't notice till the air went foggy, that I was actually spraying dust into the air. :eek: :eek: :eek:

I REALLY am going to do something to finish it... Starting tonight!!

Thanks for the inspiration Wongo!!

Cheers,

P :D

Stylesy
24th June 2005, 03:20 PM
That looks great Wongo - love the simplicity of it. :D Question though, does the cut up mouse pad sit on top of the bin edge, or seal it on the inside?

Wongo
24th June 2005, 03:22 PM
That looks great Wongo - love the simplicity of it. :D Question though, does the cut up mouse pad sit on top of the bin edge, or seal it on the inside?

on the inside :)

ryanarcher
24th June 2005, 04:13 PM
that's some sweet looking machinery in the background! thanks for the great idea Scott!

Gumby
24th June 2005, 06:28 PM
This site has some good info which is similar to Wongo's.............

http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=408

Or if you have a spare wheely bin............

http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/machinery/extractor2/cyclone.html

outback
24th June 2005, 07:44 PM
That's a weely good link Gumby. :D

I'm sorry, it's Friday night, and its all I've got left.

knucklehead
24th June 2005, 08:22 PM
Wongo, I've just finished reading a book on dust collection (you can find them right next to books on paint drying).
This book quite definantly told me that a platic garbage bin used as yours is, will collapse under the pressure of the suction.
So whats the story is that a supper reinforced garbage bin? Or should I stop reading the manuals?

la Huerta
25th June 2005, 09:45 AM
ok thats great , a real improvement on the stand alone machine...but what about combining the 2, have the blower and engine from the DC mounted directly on top of the collection/ carbage bin, saw one like this in a book and they said that it was a real improvement on the single stage DC, and it was a lot more compact , i'll try and find some pics...

la Huerta
25th June 2005, 10:00 AM
here is the link...it's the barrel style 2 stage DC shown that i am refering to...any tips on building it ??? http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=281&page=2

Gumby
26th June 2005, 12:32 PM
Thanks for the tip on this Wongo,

I went to Bunnings yesterday and bought some gear to make my pre-separator. I thought the 80L bin was solid enough to attempt putting the two pipe adaptors straight in, rather than on a piece of ply. It worked fine when sealed with some self adhesive sealing tape (also pictured). This tape is also on top of the bin under the lid. It's $9.95 for 3M and saves destroying the mouse pads :)

No probs with it looking like imploding - seems solid as a rock. My first few runs have resulted in virtually all the shavings in the bin. I sucked up some very fine dust which was in my smaller Triton cyclone bucket and virtually all that ended up in the bin as well. I love it :D

Wongo
27th June 2005, 10:34 AM
This book quite definantly told me that a platic garbage bin used as yours is, will collapse under the pressure of the suction.


Throw the book away and run. Don’t look back.

Rubbish!! First the bin is very strong. I can sit on it and it will still stand. Second we are only talking about a humble little 2hp sucker which is strong enough to suck small pieces of wood. How on earth can it make a bin collapse? I am not saying it is impossible but it is very unlikely when plastic bins are fairly strong these days. I don’t think it is something you should worry about. :)



Gumby, you don’t waste time, do you? :eek: Well done mate. So cutting holes on a semi- spherical lid must be pretty hard right?

Cheers :)

Gumby
27th June 2005, 11:03 AM
Throw the book away and run. Don’t look back.

Rubbish!! First the bin is very strong. I can sit on it and it will still stand. Second we are only talking about a humble little 2hp sucker which is strong enough to suck small pieces of wood. How on earth can it make a bin collapse? I am not saying it is impossible but it is very unlikely when plastic bins are fairly strong these days. I don’t think it is something you should worry about. :)



Gumby, you don’t waste time, do you? :eek: Well done mate. So cutting holes on a semi- spherical lid must be pretty hard right?

Cheers :)

I have to agree with Wongo, we are only using 2HP suckers so the bin is fine.

The hole cutting was pretty easy and the tape has sealed it just fine. I can't feel any leaks around the lid or in the top when it's running, although there may be some slight escape but not enough to worry me. I had a bit of trouble getting the 90 degree elbow to stay in one place but then I bolted it to the middle pipe on the inside. That has firmed it up completely. I gave it another good run after my previous post and the 2HP definitely cleans the shavings off the thicknesser a whole heap better than my previous 1HP. Even allowing for the fact that it now runs through 3M of 100mm pipe in the roof before coming back down to the rubbish bin and then into the DC. The bin was about $20 at Bunnings :)

knucklehead
27th June 2005, 11:19 AM
The books been thrown out!

I'm off to get a plastic bin right away.

Gumby
27th June 2005, 11:27 AM
The books been thrown out!

I'm off to get a plastic bin right away.


At least you'll have a bin to throw it into :D

Wongo
27th June 2005, 11:42 AM
Hi viewers,

Sorry I forgot to mention that the connector and elbow are locked in place by some L-shape brackets. I also use silicon to seal the gaps so it is 100% efficient. :)

mkb
27th June 2005, 05:03 PM
knucklehead,

Reading on the Lee Valley website; about their cyclone lids, they indicate that a relief hole needs to be drilled if a shop vac is being used, to ensure that "the inflow of air must never be blocked" otherwise you can get stuff collapsing... maybe that is what the book is refering to.
If; however, like Wongo & Gumby you are using a 2hp DC, and not a shop vac, I don't think it will matter as much.

MajorPanic
27th June 2005, 07:48 PM
Wongo's use of a 2 stage separator is what I'm going to use with my new setup.
I'll be going one step further by using a second collection bin for my setup.
I got hold of 2 200ltr drums with airtight camlock lids for a grand total of $60.00. I'll be using 150mm plastic pipe to connect the 2 drums to the 3100CFM DC. This should make emptying the DC bags at least a tri-monthly occasion. :D :D

Cagey
2nd July 2005, 09:34 PM
G'day wongo very innovative. A few questions 1. does the fact that you dont have the pipe to dc extend into the bin effect perfomance, in that the inlet/outlet points may be close enuff to effect cyclonic flow, and 2. does baffled sides of bin effect that cyclonic motion.

Auld Bassoon
2nd July 2005, 10:18 PM
Thanks for the tip on this Wongo,

I went to Bunnings yesterday and bought some gear to make my pre-separator. I thought the 80L bin was solid enough to attempt putting the two pipe adaptors straight in, rather than on a piece of ply. It worked fine when sealed with some self adhesive sealing tape (also pictured). This tape is also on top of the bin under the lid. It's $9.95 for 3M and saves destroying the mouse pads :)

No probs with it looking like imploding - seems solid as a rock. My first few runs have resulted in virtually all the shavings in the bin. I sucked up some very fine dust which was in my smaller Triton cyclone bucket and virtually all that ended up in the bin as well. I love it :D
Hi Gumby,

I have a superfine Bunnieshttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon10.gif garbo bin as the 2nd stage for a while now; it's hooked up to a 2HP DC, and although the machinery inlet looks a bit like an oil refinery "Christmas Tree", with the various blast gates in place, it works fine. I just recently figured out that I was loosing a goodish amount of 'suction' because the lid on the bin wasn't sealing properly with the bin itself. Now fixed with some foam and three screws holding the lid downhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon12.gif

See attached pic (sorry for the dust 'n poo!http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon11.gif)

Cheers!
Steve B

Gumby
2nd July 2005, 11:14 PM
Thanks Steve, mine seems OK with the tape but I might light a match near it and see if the smoke gets sucked in. Then I will re-seal if necessary. ;)

Stuart
2nd July 2005, 11:26 PM
Hi guys,

Been doing quite a bit on my dust collection system as well (having had my vacuum cleaner do its own impromptu smoke testing) I now have a 4" collector, and it seems to do a great job, but only when the tubing is full size. It seems to have pretty much no suction if I drop the hose diameter (something about low pressure, high volume air flow).

How do you deal with this? Sometimes you want to use a small diameter hose (such as from a router), and I am not intending on buying another vacuum.

I spent some time this afternoon trying to get the 4" to do below-table suction from the router table. The problem is, I still want easy access to the router itself...... I was getting some collection happening, but no where near what I want, and no where near 100% collection.

Gumby
2nd July 2005, 11:31 PM
Hi guys,

How do you deal with this? Sometimes you want to use a small diameter hose (such as from a router), and I am not intending on buying another vacuum.

.

I don't. I have the 4" connected to a 2HP DC for the tablesaw and jointer. The vac is connected to the modified Triton bucket for hand held tools. I think it's best to have 2 separate systems requiring different types of airflow and air speed. Thes second unit is handy for portability as well. i've had it inside sanding bench tops and taken it to a mates place for his. Can't do that with a 4" 2 HP DC :)

Stuart
2nd July 2005, 11:33 PM
Not happy Jan.

BTW - what do you do regarding static electricity buildup?

Gumby
2nd July 2005, 11:36 PM
Not happy Jan.

BTW - what do you do regarding static electricity buildup?

Nuthin' .... :D :D

remember this ???

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=7274&highlight=zapped

Auld Bassoon
2nd July 2005, 11:44 PM
Agree with Gumby, I personally think that the whole myth about static build-up and attendant explosion hazard is just that - a myth, at least in amateur shops.

Cheers!
Steve B

Pat
3rd July 2005, 01:18 AM
Mythbusters did a section on Static and PVC - BUSTED! Gumby, you may have got a little belt, not the ampherage required to cause major probs, just a gentle reminder to earth the blessed thing and yourself. :)

Stuart
4th July 2005, 02:09 AM
Dunno about the risk of explosion, but I've had enough static electricity belts from the cyclone unit not to want to repeat the experience voluntarily! (ok, so it took a few times for me to remember to keep clear of the unit, that is until I got around to earthing it!)

Redback
5th July 2005, 02:31 PM
Hi Guys,
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the purpose of this modification? is it to only stop bits going through the impeller?

Does it improve the suction achieved?. I have only a 1 hp dust extractor, is there any point of this mod for a 1 hp?.

I have seen a bit about the cyclone mod. How come no one makes these commerically?

cheers

RB

Wongo
5th July 2005, 02:58 PM
what is the purpose of this modification? is it to only stop bits going through the impeller?


It is easier to empty the bin and I can do more often. My 2hp DC does lose a little bit of suction but not enough to worry me. :)

Gumby
5th July 2005, 04:44 PM
I agree with Wongo. It's easier to empty the rubbish bin, gives more total storage space for chips ( my bag on the DC has about 6" of them and the bucket was about 2/3 full after the weekend.) I doubt the 1HP would work with this as well. I have lost a minimal amount of suction but still way more than with the old 1HP I had. The 2HP allows you to run ducts and pipe in the roof or around the walls whereas the 1HP needed to be a short, straight run from the machine to the unit to be effective.

knucklehead
14th July 2005, 10:09 PM
Well I've joined the club.
Still leaks a bit but the suction is fair and improving as I fix each joint.

Thanks guyshttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif

Gumby
14th July 2005, 10:13 PM
Nice, colour coordinated too. :)

dai sensei
14th July 2005, 10:52 PM
Well I've joined the club.
Still leaks a bit but the suction is fair and improving as I fix each joint.

Thanks guyshttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif
Next is the cyclone?

Just noticed - Happy birthday by the way.

Mulgabill
16th July 2005, 06:03 PM
OK guys, Interesting thread, however can someone tell me what would be the optimum size for a separator bin on a 1HP single use (lathe) CT dust extractor. I notice that many use plastic rubbish bins but they come in all sizes.

I was thinking that as mine is a single use DC would a 20 litres metal can be too small?????

Gumby
16th July 2005, 06:28 PM
OK guys, Interesting thread, however can someone tell me what would be the optimum size for a separator bin on a 1HP single use (lathe) CT dust extractor. I notice that many use plastic rubbish bins but they come in all sizes.

I was thinking that as mine is a single use DC would a 20 litres metal can be too small?????

knucklehead's photo shows a 1HP unit. I would think you wouldn't want any smaller bin than those others in here. 20L is way too small in my opinion. Mine is 80L but you could go to the 60L. I don't think any smaller is worthwhile because it isn't going to hold enough. You are also going to lose suction and I'm, not sure that a 1HP unit can afford to do this.

Mulgabill
16th July 2005, 06:42 PM
knucklehead's photo shows a 1HP unit. I would think you wouldn't want any smaller bin than those others in here. 20L is way too small in my opinion. Mine is 80L but you could go to the 60L. I don't think any smaller is worthwhile because it isn't going to hold enough. You are also going to lose suction and I'm, not sure that a 1HP unit can afford to do this.
Cheers Gumby! your good opinion has been taken on board and I understand the logic. I was trying to limit any loss of suction with the 1HP unit.

Gumby
16th July 2005, 06:46 PM
Cheers Gumby! your good opinion has been taken on board .

Well, there's a first time for everthing :eek:

Mulgabill
16th July 2005, 06:51 PM
Well, there's a first time for everthing :eek:
That's true, but the odds have to roll in your favour sooner or later!http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon10.gif

knucklehead
16th July 2005, 07:52 PM
Mulgabill you have the exact opposite of my problem. The drum I am using is 200L (about) and I think it is too big for the 1HP unit driving it.
When time permits I am going to add some foam blocks to the bottom of the drum to see if the pressure improves.

Gumby, I'm sure that dust collector book I had showed calculations on this. Pitty you made me throw it out!

Gumby
17th July 2005, 12:05 AM
Gumby, I'm sure that dust collector book I had showed calculations on this. Pitty you made me throw it out!

If you took my advice when you threw it, then it's in the bin. :D

Wongo
18th July 2005, 04:39 PM
Did a big job on the weekend and used the jointer and thicknesser a lot. Normally it would fill up the plastic bag. Changing the plastic bag is not a 5-seconds job and the bag is not cheap. Instead, I just open the bin and empty it. I love it. :)

outback
18th July 2005, 05:37 PM
The drum is only a recepticle for the waste, and should be completely sealed. So, apart from a little lag time when you first switch on, whilst the vacuum accumulates in the drum, I can't see what difference the drum size makes.

la Huerta
19th July 2005, 01:31 AM
just wondering how much dust comes out the other end, and is there some way of eliminating the bags completely, maybe the outlet could go into a second drum and then the dust left would be so little that the final outlet could be outside or whatever...would this work???

la Huerta
27th July 2005, 08:33 AM
does anyone know where to get used plastic drums with locking lids in sydney ?

Zed
27th July 2005, 09:00 AM
Hey Knucklehead,

where did you get the bin you used ? what did it cost ? - I feel this is the best variation of bins mentioned as the constrution is light but the plastic is quite firm as opposed to wongo's garbo bin variant and also has a fair amount of capacity. I reckon with a 2000cfm 2hp dusty this will be just fine. Definatley the way im gunna go... although I dont have to worry too much about this as my system has 2 collection bags built in so oodles of capacity - the big win is the ease of emptying as far as im concerned.

in some of the pics you guys are posting I see miles of flexi duct pipe . is this where you lose your suction ? - it flexes and acts as a brake on the ribbing - you need a smooth inside for a smooth air ride - solid plastic pvc ??? and nice large corners ...

all my ducting is approx 1m max length. when I set up the permanent pvc pipe (like midge and major keep threatening) I will only use flexi duct for the last half metre of any feed hopefully this will help.

I assume everyone has seen the lid that carba tec sells to make a 2 stager ?

cheers all and thanks for the ideas.

zenwood
27th July 2005, 11:14 AM
Mulgabill you have the exact opposite of my problem. The drum I am using is 200L (about) and I think it is too big for the 1HP unit driving it.
Hmmm... Can the drum be 'too big'? Taken to the extreme case, you have an inlet and and outlet connected to the outside world (infinitely large bin). I don't see any problem with this. Certainly don't think you'd lose any suction, though you might not generate a good cyclone, but in this case it doesn't really matter.

On the other hand, I think Gumby's right, it is possible for the drum to be too small.

To me the design considerations are:




as big as will fit in a convenient space in the shed
round, to aid in the generation of a cyclone, with concomittant centrifugal separation of heavy shavings from light dust
tall enough (or shaped like a cone, or equipped with a separator of some description) so that the cyclone generated by the swirling air at the top doesn't stir up the dust at the bottom of the drum
central outlet pipe descending far enough into the drum so as not to short-circuit the generation of a cyclone, but not so far as to suck up dust from the bottom.
all transitions between elements (hose/pipe/drum/) to be gradual so as to minimise generation of turbulence (or resonances), with associated increase in drag and loss of suction. This means Y-junctions (not T-junctions), smooth walled pipe (not long lengths of ribbed flexi, as mentioned by Zed), central outlet of drum cut at an angle (not 90 degrees).
The actual fluid flow going on here is viciously complicated. You've got a multi-phase fluid (air/dust/shavings) going through ribbed-walled ducts, transitions, impellers, filters. A Navier-Stokes nightmare. Probably the best system design process is what's going here in the forum. A bunch of people trying out different ideas, seeing what works, and relaying back the results to the community for further iteration/evolution. An extremely powerful design process (but somewhat costly for some, if they try out a radical idea and it doesn't work).

knucklehead
27th July 2005, 12:44 PM
Zed the drum is from a livestock and feed supply mob. It was supposed to contain suppliments. They normally cut the empties down to use as feeding troughs. The lid pushes on (rubber seal) then a band clamp secures it. It cost me $30. One thing to keep in mind is the drum is bloody big. Emptying it will be a hassle.

Re the flex hose.
I do have too much flex hose but cannot see another alternative at the moment.
All of my equipment is on wheels and get moved regularly. This makes fixed dust extruction a hassle.

Waldo
13th January 2006, 12:07 PM
Zed the drum is from a livestock and feed supply mob.

I've been thinking along the same lines for my 2nd stage thingy, but one of those metal drums. I could make the inlets to create the cyclone for the drum, but was thinking of buying the C/T dust separator lid and cutting it down and fitting to the metal lid of the drum - I like the idea of totally having no air escaping and that the cyclone would work as opposed to making it and it maybe working.

Any opinions on this?

From memory when my Dad bred ducks and we had those metal feedstock drums, it was a 20lt?, do they come in a bigger size?

Skew ChiDAMN!!
13th January 2006, 11:22 PM
I've been thinking along the same lines for my 2nd stage thingy, but one of those metal drums. I could make the inlets to create the cyclone for the drum, but was thinking of buying the C/T dust separator lid and cutting it down and fitting to the metal lid of the drum - I like the idea of totally having no air escaping and that the cyclone would work as opposed to making it and it maybe working.

Any opinions on this?

From memory when my Dad bred ducks and we had those metal feedstock drums, it was a 20lt?, do they come in a bigger size?

A 40gallon drum is 200 litres. That's what I use, anyway. Cost me $15 at a salvage yard, complete with lid and band-clamp.

I prefer the ol drum 'cos it's metal. Easily modified, takes a good knock and in case of ignition will contain the fire for a while. Until my ductwork ignites, but that's gonna be replaced with metal soon. Soon, soon... [rubs hands in glee]

I didn't bother with the CT seperator lid, I just converted the existing lid to take a few fittings I had lying around. I'm not sure whether I was running it when you dropped in?

Waldo
14th January 2006, 09:09 AM
G'day Skew ChiDAMN!!,

No it wasn't up and running when I came around that ime.

My thoughts exactly on the metal drum as for being easily converted. Since I don't have any left over PVC fittings I thought the cost for the CT lid would equal out.

dazzler
2nd April 2006, 10:52 PM
Hey

if using a 2 stage dust collector do you think it possible to do away with the big bags on the dusty and replace with one of the filters like on the end of the cyclone style.

Seeing as most is going into the bin would it work?

So take the hose from the motor/fan directly to the round cartridge filter?


Pics should explain better!:rolleyes: Change from Pic 1 to Pic 2

Trying to save some space!
:D

Skew ChiDAMN!!
2nd April 2006, 11:09 PM
if using a 2 stage dust collector do you think it possible to do away with the big bags on the dusty and replace with one of the filters like on the end of the cyclone style.

Seeing as most is going into the bin would it work?

So take the hose from the motor/fan directly to the round cartridge filter?

I thought about doing that, but as my seperator's just a 44g drum with a couple of PVC fittings in the lid it's not the most efficient; besides, I tend not to empty it until the dusty bag starts to fill all of a sudden. :o

Assuming you have a DC like pic 1 and have put a seperator inline, then if you're more conscientious than I (not hard :rolleyes: ) and you already know that little gets through to the dusty bag, then why not? Eventually I plan to replace my lower bag with another filter and move the whole beast to an outside lean-to, leaving only the seperator drum indoors for easy access... but I want to make it more efficient first. (Basically just building a funnel into the top third... but easier said than done.)

dazzler
2nd April 2006, 11:31 PM
Hi Skew

I have the 2hp deluxe or super duper carbatec dusty and what I was thinking is to build a trolley (or use the one it came with) and put two bins down below and mount the dust extractor up top with a large cartridge.

See pic!:D

So the air/dust comes from the machine/s, into the bins and then up to the extractor and over to the cartridge:o .

Could this/would this/might this work.

cheers

dazzler

P.S. My graphic design business is going A OK thank you very much:p

Skew ChiDAMN!!
2nd April 2006, 11:53 PM
Offhand, I'd say no. Do-able, but a lot of work and modifications.

I'm not up-to-date on all the Carbatech DC's, but I'm pretty sure all the twin-bag jobs have the impeller & seperator bodies built as part of the same assembly? To do what you want you'd have to reverse the direction of air-flow and the impeller's not designed to run backwards. It's designed to blow into the bags, not suck out of 'em. The seperators don't work too well running backwards either. :rolleyes:

If there's flexible duct between the impeller and each seperator body, so you can reverse the flow by turning the whole impeller assembly around, then I can't see why it couldn't be made to work. I'm not sure whether you'd have enough vacuum to run both sides at the same time though. :confused: (I'm ignoring getting the cyclone effect in the bins working... that's possible.)

dazzler
3rd April 2006, 12:08 AM
Thanks Skew,

I didnt describe it good enough, its one of these that has the two 4" outlets and blows into the bags. So I thought if I get rid of the bags and frame etc and just kept the motor/sucker and attached a cartridge to the end of the hose that goes up to the bags instead.

cheers

dazzler

http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/images/product/CT-2042.jpg (http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=ct_popup_img&img=images%2Fhires%2FCT-2042.jpg)

woodbe
3rd April 2006, 12:25 AM
The cartridge is for filtering the air as it escapes back to the room.

It replaces the upper bag.

The lower bag collects chips and dust.

If you replace both of them with a single cartridge, it will clog up in no time, and the whole shooting match will probably have a hernia because the airflow will stall...

woodbe.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
3rd April 2006, 12:27 AM
Ah. Yes, that's the same as mine. :)

I'm assuming that your planning on putting the bin(s) before the impeller then? The same as I have with the 44g drum? I doubt it'll run two bins though...

I'd try building the bins seperately and hooking it up as is for a while, just to find out exactly how much dust gets through to the dusty bag. If it ain't much, then go ahead and replace the bags with suitably rated filters and move it all onto your trolley. If a lot does get through, then you'll have to look at improving your bins. :D

Much simpler than what I was going through mental contortions with. :rolleyes:

Waldo
3rd April 2006, 12:51 AM
G'day,

CT have filters for the fm300F and 2300F, see the link

http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=../index&cPath=180_350_1570_19214

johnc
10th April 2006, 12:07 AM
Our local Aussie disposals sometimes have them, don't know if they are generally stocked in their other stores or if this is just a one off. Must be any number of factory's with a squillion of these things kicking around.

And Gumby's right about size, I've got a 20l baby cyclone connected to the shop Vac for the sander, and other power tools, takes about 10l of dust before it reaches capacity. That makes it OK for sanding but useless for anything producing real chips.

John.

Graha
7th May 2006, 06:59 PM
Guys,

Today I purchased my air-tight "bucket" to create my cyclone seperator - for those in Sydney I got mine from Reverse Garbage in Marrickville - they have a lot of good quality, second hand "stuff" (could not think of a better word), material, foam, old electrical equipment and a massive amount of drums. I purchase mine for $9 (I will post some shots once I have started construction). It is not as large as some in this thread, but for my single garage I think it will work well. They did have some whopping huge ones which are more expensive, but I didn't ask how much. A few 100mm elbows and pipe from Bunnies and I am ready to join the cyclone club.

Quick question - any tried using silicon to air-tight the hoses in the plastic drums? I have a few tubes of bathroom and kitchen silicon and was thinking of using this, but if anyone has had bad experiences with it I will easily change my mind.

Graha.

zenwood
7th May 2006, 07:17 PM
Graha: I used silicone extensively throughout my cyclone, and has been fine so far. See here:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=27501

Graha
7th May 2006, 07:22 PM
Graha: I used silicone extensively throughout my cyclone, and has been fine so far. See here:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=27501

Zen,

Thanks for that - I have seen you link before are quite admire the clear cone - not only keeping dust away from our lungs, but looks cool as well :)

dazzler
7th May 2006, 08:21 PM
Hi Graha

If u r using the 4"dusty hose from carbatec I just wrap some duct tape around the hose until it is a press fit into the female end of the pipe and wrap some more tape around the join.

make sure you light some candles and play some soft music to set the mood.;)

See pic of mine. Works no probs:D http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=21768&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1144396852 (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=21768&d=1144396852)

Large pics at http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=30402&highlight=dusty

dazzler

edit ----in case you meant pipe fittings instead of hoses then I have used liquid nails for mine with no probs.

Graha
7th May 2006, 09:24 PM
Hi Graha

If u r using the 4"dusty hose from carbatec I just wrap some duct tape around the hose until it is a press fit into the female end of the pipe and wrap some more tape around the join.

make sure you light some candles and play some soft music to set the mood.;)

.....




Dazzler,

I was thinking of doing this, but I didn't cut a nice-enough hole in the top (it is a bit ragged). So with the little gaps I used silicon to close them up.

I will be using a form of what you describe to fit the hoses to the PVC elbows. My current dusty has a 4inch-2inch reducer on it, and to get the 2inch pipe into the hole I have wrapped some gaff tape around the pipe and it is just the right diameter to fit into the hole nice and snug. If I need to move the hose elsewhere, it will just "unplug" and move. I will do this with the 4inch pipe I will be purchasing in the near future (visit to Carabatec to get some bits).

I will also make sure the hose buys the pipes dinner before any joining commences ;)

Thanks for the info though.

Graha.

Graha
11th May 2006, 09:56 PM
I have finished my yesterday and gave it a test this afternoon to a complete success. Thanks to all that posted in this thread (and many other threads in this forum) as I am quite impressed with the simplicity of this design.

To test, I removed the bag from my dusty (which is pictured below) to see how much dust came through - none that I could see. I am not going to run it this way when working, but was a good test.

Pic 1 - the complete bin. The metal ring around the top clips the lid onto the bin airtight (from what I can see).

Pic 2 - with the lid off showing "plumbing"

Pic 3 - size comparison to my dusty (1hp). The drum is 45Lt capacity so should hold a few months worth of sawdust without a problem (as I don't get to do as much work as I would like)


Bin - $9
PVC Elbows - $20
Silicon - $0

Inexpensive is always good :)

Graha