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Big A
9th August 2014, 09:18 PM
I could, perhaps, be preaching to the choir by doing this, but it is conceivable that there is someone of even less capabilities than I, who can learn from reading this. Also there is a dearth of postings of works in progress on the forum, so it behoves me to have a go.

All my gear is second hand and well used or well abused, except for the live centre which is brand new. I mostly used scrapers for this job – one is made from an old file, some I have made out of 60Si2Mn (9260) and one out of a spring lever.

This block of wood is Murray River Red Gum, from the bank of the mighty Murray at Carlyle, not far from Corowa, but in Mexitoria. It was saved from a pile of blocks that I was giving a friend a hand to split into firewood with a hydraulic log splitter. On our recent trip to Victoria, I was surprised at the amount of timber that was going up in smoke, just so the residents could suffer the abysmal weather. (Or the paddle steamers could ply their trade. At Eucha, there was a pile of Red Gum that would have kept a pen turner in blanks for many years!)

But I digress. I brought the wood home so that I could make a bowl as a gift to the people who hosted us for a few days and gave us a good look around that part of Victoria. I have another piece that I will use to make a replica Mercy Cross for the lady of the house, as she did her nursing training under the Mercy Nuns at the same time as my wife.

In its raw state, the block is 201mm high, 270mm wide, 330 long and weighs 19.4 kg. After a bit of a trim up with the chainsaw, it still weighed 14.3 kg. Because of its irregular shape, I found it a bit hard to “read” the best way to mount it, and got it a lot wrong, as the blank was unbalanced and caused the lathe to go on walkabout. After a bit more surgery with the saw, the balance was good enough to make a start, as long as I had a hip against the lathe to stop the walk. (Just kidding!)

Image 0828 is the raw block, 0831 is after the trim.

Images 0832 and 0833 the block in the lathe and ready to go. I had this sucker harnessed up as well as I could using my biggest face plate with decent screws and the tailstock. I don’t know why the colour of the wood changed, but it was in a different light. The natural colour is pink.

I will post this much now and see how it turns out. (Pun not intended!)

Alister.

artme
10th August 2014, 11:05 AM
'Twill indeed be an interesting task!!

Some contentious looking splits to be wary of.

Good turning and good luck!!

Drillit
10th August 2014, 11:41 AM
Alister,
I hope that you will not be offended about what I am to say.
To turn a bowl of that magnitude with a scraper made of a file is dangerous.
Files are brittle and unless they have been re-tempered they can break and cause
serious injury. Given the wood shape, this is a real likelihood. I assume you will use
a faceplate and tailstock up for balance and safety. You need a 1/2" or 5/8" bowl
gouge to remove the bulk of stock and you can finish with a scraper. I
know there are all sorts of books, videos and u-tube references for bowl turning and
they will be helpful. But I suggest that you get some
local hands on advice (mens shed/woodturning group/local turner), and perhaps start on a smaller piece as a practical exercise.
A investment in a gouge will not go astray in any event. Others may also wish to express a view and help.
All the best, Drillit.:no:

artme
10th August 2014, 01:10 PM
Absolutely agree with Drillit!!!

I really just skimmed the post first time round and something has been bothering me. I opened up again to find Drillit's post and then read the thread properly.

Drillit is absolutely correct. Your files will be bloody dangerous. Pleas get yourself a decent bowl gouge!!

Ticky
10th August 2014, 04:21 PM
Absolutely agree with Drillit!!!


Drillit is absolutely correct. Your files will be bloody dangerous. Pleas get yourself a decent bowl gouge!!


I think you will also need a sharpening jig as River Red Gum will take the edge off your gouge fairly quick I recon.

Having said that, I think RRG polishes up real nice & I am looking forward to seeing your bowl progress.

Steve

Big A
10th August 2014, 08:58 PM
Drillit and Artme –no offence taken and thank you for your concerns re safety. I have read postings on using old files as woodturning tools and am aware of the dangers of such. The file that I am using has been in use some time and has had a pretty good workout without problems, as it was used by the previous owner of the outfit.

Although I do not have any trade qualifications, I have used all sorts of tools for most of my life so I am not new to using my hands to create things. As well, this is not the first bowl that I have produced, although it is probably the biggest and the River Red Gum is actually easier to work than the dry old Ironbark that I have done most of my work in.

I did say “Images 0832 and 0833 the block in the lathe and ready to go. I had this sucker harnessed up as well as I could using my biggest face plate with decent screws and the tailstock.”

I think I had my derriere fairly well covered in this instance. This is not to say that I will not be an idiot sometime in the future – faeces happens, but for the most part I try to minimise risk. I nearly always use the 3 point plan:
What am I about to do?
What can go wrong?
What can I do to avoid this?

The job is done and the bowl is in the hands of the recipient. The documentation is actually what is in progress.

Steve, I have a sharpening jig and it did get a workout with this job.

Alister.

Big A
10th August 2014, 09:19 PM
My method of making a bowl is to remove all the wood that does not look like a bowl – not an original idea I know, but the point is that there was a lot of sap, some cracks and some rotten wood that I had to remove before I had the basic shape. I do not set out to make any particular shape in bowls, but the shape usually comes out in trimming the rubbish off and if the shape looks good to me, it is good enough.
Images 0834 and 0835 are roughing it down – showing the cracks, sap and off colour wood, but there is some nice colour and pattern coming out.

Sometimes the wood cuts off, sometimes it wears off and sometimes it rubs off! This Red Gum is a dense wood, more so than I thought it would be, but it works fairly easily in its present condition. Considering that I have made bowls from Ironbark stumps that have been under this house for 50 years or so, anything else works easily. The timber still has some moisture in it, so I will have to dry it somehow.

Images 0837 and 0838 Pretty much got the shape I like and cut the bottom and tenon and remounted between centres. If you look at the chuck, you will see that it is a 3 jaw machinist’s chuck modified with contraction jaws. (I also have expansion jaws for this chuck.) I use the tailstock most of the time so that I can be a bit aggressive and the dig-ins don’t launch objects as much

Image 0839 - The bit in the middle makes it harder to work in there, but worth it for the peace of mind. For some reason, I took the blank out of the chuck, maybe for the photo, but I mark the chuck and the tenon, so I can get it back in the same slot.

Image 0841 - The jaws will grab a 60mm tenon, but that one is more like 70 which means I have 6 point contact. I know it is ideal to have full contact, but if you take a bee’s too much off, there is no contact, right?

That's enough for now.
Alister.

artme
10th August 2014, 09:37 PM
Gotta hand it to you Big A!!

Getting thus far, and very successfully, is a credit to your skill!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

That will polish up beautifully but I'm wondering about the moisture content.

Big A
10th August 2014, 09:46 PM
Artme,

Thanks.

Yes it did have moisture - that gets a mention in the next episode. Hold ya horses!

Alister.

Ticky
11th August 2014, 01:43 AM
Save the bit in the middle, you might be able to make a Top out of it.

Steve

Christos
11th August 2014, 07:51 PM
I will pull up a chair as well. :U

smiife
11th August 2014, 08:52 PM
Hi big a,
Hurry up and finish this bowl, something about
that blank just doesn, t seem right, hope it doesn, t
crack up or worse!, finish it and seal it and it might be ok!
Can, t wait to see the results:U

jefferson
11th August 2014, 09:33 PM
My method of making a bowl is to remove all the wood that does not look like a bowl – not an original idea I know, but the point is that there was a lot of sap, some cracks and some rotten wood that I had to remove before I had the basic shape. I do not set out to make any particular shape in bowls, but the shape usually comes out in trimming the rubbish off and if the shape looks good to me, it is good enough.
Images 0834 and 0835 are roughing it down – showing the cracks, sap and off colour wood, but there is some nice colour and pattern coming out.

Sometimes the wood cuts off, sometimes it wears off and sometimes it rubs off! This Red Gum is a dense wood, more so than I thought it would be, but it works fairly easily in its present condition. Considering that I have made bowls from Ironbark stumps that have been under this house for 50 years or so, anything else works easily. The timber still has some moisture in it, so I will have to dry it somehow.

Images 0837 and 0838 Pretty much got the shape I like and cut the bottom and tenon and remounted between centres. If you look at the chuck, you will see that it is a 3 jaw machinist’s chuck modified with contraction jaws. (I also have expansion jaws for this chuck.) I use the tailstock most of the time so that I can be a bit aggressive and the dig-ins don’t launch objects as much

Image 0839 - The bit in the middle makes it harder to work in there, but worth it for the peace of mind. For some reason, I took the blank out of the chuck, maybe for the photo, but I mark the chuck and the tenon, so I can get it back in the same slot.

Image 0841 - The jaws will grab a 60mm tenon, but that one is more like 70 which means I have 6 point contact. I know it is ideal to have full contact, but if you take a bee’s too much off, there is no contact, right?

That's enough for now.
Alister.

Alister, I not only don't like your shape (brake drum Joe) but the size of your holding tenon.

You have been lucky thus far with Euc. Cam. RRG, as it is so short in the grain. I know it well and turn it all the time.

I hope not to be offensive, but you seriously need some safety instruction.

Do you honestly have no "departures" from the lathe?

If not, you have been lucky thus far. Talk with the pros, there's plenty out there.

Big A
11th August 2014, 09:50 PM
Images 0842 and 0843 show it is roughed out and ready for the dryer, which just happens to be the caravan microwave. Dimensions are now 260mm X 90mm and it weighs about 2.6 kg. I did not count the number of times I “cooked” it, but I did not heat it up too much each and kept going until the weight stabilised. (Unlike a piece of Sally Wattle that I charred more recently!)

Images 0844 and 0846. During the drying process, it got so out of shape that towards the end that I put it back on the lathe to see if I had enough to work on. Image 0853 shows that there is a fair cut of about 10mm on the outside and much the same on the inside, but there was enough meat to carry on.

After drying it went back on the lathe for the final trim. As I indicated, it was a bit wobbly for a start but it came into shape fairly easily. This is when I started to get nervous, because I was worried about how thin to go, and about a dig in at this critical stage. I opted to go thick, rather than thin, but no so thick that it was chunky. Got that? End grain tear out gets me a bit at this stage, but I am learning to deal with it by using a sealer and a sharpener oftener! (And of course 120 grit and elbow grease.)

Nearly there!
Alister.

Big A
11th August 2014, 10:00 PM
Jefferson,

Thank you for your concerns, but did you read my Post #6?

Actually, my shape is pretty good for a bloke my age! With regard to the shape of the bowl, it does resemble a brake drum, but looks OK in the wood and you are the first person to make a comment. The recipients are extremely happy with it and that is what counts with me.

Alister.

jefferson
11th August 2014, 10:06 PM
Alister,

Again, not a great shape and way, way too chunky. And again, that tenon is way too small. Do you intend to part it off? Please don't get offended, but you can do much better with a redgum plank that size. Buy a decent bowl gouge (the unhandled Vicmarcs are great steel) for around $65.

Google bowls and you will get some great ideas.

smiife
12th August 2014, 09:15 PM
Jefferson,

Thank youfor your concerns, but did you read my Post #6?

Actually, my shape is pretty good for a bloke my age! With regard to the shape of the bowl, it does resemble a brake drum, but looks OK in the wood and you are the first person to make a comment. The recipients are extremely happy with it and that is what counts with me.

Alister.

Hi alister,
If you are happy with the bowl then thats ok
If you put a post up you should expect comments
good or bad , I was told the same thing once ......brake
drum/dog bowl etc....and that person was right, I was
devistated by the comments myself but I took It on
board and checked out form and shapes etc and then
you will realise what jeff is trying to tell you,
There Is a lot of experianced turners on the forum
and the comments they make are normaly only
to help and to try and Improve your turning!!!
I am sure he was only trying to help you Improve
your turning.
I am not too sure what age has to with anything?
most of us are old geezers!!,
Hope you can take the advice given and not take offence!

jefferson
13th August 2014, 12:01 AM
I meant no offence with my brake-drum comment. We all did that at some time. The question is really about accepting feedback and improving. If someone posts a pic and says, hey look at me! and it's not quite right, then I think I and others should say so honestly. Otherwise, you go on in your own little world and not get any better. I try to be diplomatic, a skill I probably need to improve on.

One of my best mates is an out and out Brake Drum Joe. Col will never get any better, he's just happy doing what he does. So be it.

It's a big, wide world out there in woodturning and at some point you need to put your hand up and ask for help. As I did on the forum so many years ago. I am better turner for it. And yes, I still have the first box I ever turned.

But don't put pics up and expect nothing but adulation. As I said, we all turned the same way at the start of the journey.

Mobyturns
13th August 2014, 07:33 AM
Alister,

One thing I enjoy about forums is the willingness to share a range of skills & knowledge from turners and also the range of tolerance & diplomacy some have or don't have. It is a pleasure to see someone like your self obviously very pleased with the fruits of their labours post and share their joy of making. Sometimes our written words or our economy in using them just don't convey our true meaning, feelings or intent in sharing commentary or our knowledge to assist another turner to find a "better" or "safer" method of making. I'm sure most are well meaning and only wish to assist you to achieve PB’s & most importantly to keep you safe so you can continue your joy of making. Having another turner willing to share their knowledge is a bonus to me.

On the safety issues,

Firstly I very much like your 3 point attitude to safety,

Files reworked into turning tools aren't such a good idea :( as very few makers of such tools have the knowledge or skills to make them well or suitable for long (or short) term safe use. The fact they have been in use a long time can be both an indication that they were made well OR that they have received enough use/abuse to create micro cracks etc & that they are likely to fail at any time.

Work holding methods for turners is serious business. Unfortunately turners receive serious injuries :oo: when tenons, wood worm screws, face plate wood screws, or unsound blanks fail. These hazards must never be taken lightly. Wood turners no matter their experience should heed or at least consider warnings or cautions from more cautious, experienced or knowledgable turners about the potential hazards & risks of performing tasks in a particular manner. We often overlook hazards from things like the inherent properties of some woods and their suitability or compatibility with some work holding systems. “Short grained” woods fail/shear easily on tenons, so we either use a larger diameter tenon with “bowl jaws” or a face plate & screws to overcome that hazard.

I also get more than a little nervous seeing fabricated jaw sets on 3 jaw machinists chucks. Like all tools they can be used safely by a knowledgable & skilled turner who understands the hazards and risks. However in inexperienced hands they are risky. 3 jaw chucks went out in the 1980's for a very good reason - the 4 jaw wood turners scroll chuck was far superior & efficient.

As for using scrapers vs bowl gouges, well that is a whole argument in itself but both have applications & their devotees. I use both and select the method on its merits in each application on safety, efficiency, impact upon my body & health, and outcome/result. Horses for courses & what works for you on the day.:cool:

I appreciate that many turners are on limited budgets and that many very well made items come off some very modest setups, but we should always strive to work as safely as we possibly can. Hope you continue to share your enthusiasm of making and strive to achieve personal bests with each piece that makes it onto the lathe.
:D

bowl-basher
13th August 2014, 01:56 PM
Alister,
I hope that you will not be offended about what I am to say.
To turn a bowl of that magnitude with a scraper made of a file is dangerous.
Files are brittle and unless they have been re-tempered they can break and cause
serious injury. Given the wood shape, this is a real likelihood. I assume you will use
a faceplate and tailstock up for balance and safety. You need a 1/2" or 5/8" bowl
gouge to remove the bulk of stock and you can finish with a scraper. I
know there are all sorts of books, videos and u-tube references for bowl turning and
they will be helpful. But I suggest that you get some
local hands on advice (mens shed/woodturning group/local turner), and perhaps start on a smaller piece as a practical exercise.
A investment in a gouge will not go astray in any event. Others may also wish to express a view and help.
All the best, Drillit.:no:

:please::please::please:
Read Drillit's post and throw the files in the bin...
just last week one of the blokes at mens shed had brought one in that I had not seen and was scraping a SMALL bowl blank when he had a catch.... the working end of the file hit the ceiling just lucky that its trajectory was clear of all human flesh
These things are dangerous

Regards
Bowl Basher

jefferson
13th August 2014, 06:50 PM
I'm sorry that we appeared to have frightened Alistair off.

Maybe pride has something to do with it, but he may be unwell, tired etc. so we should give him some space.

I can honestly say that I haven't had a piece depart from the lathe in many, many years. I refuse point-blank to turn wood with cracks, faults etc. I also use dovetailed tenons of the appropriate size. That's why I have so many chucks. And faceplates for jam chucks. Over 30 at last count.

And I do listen for the wood "ticking". No earmuffs here.

But I do get very concerned when I hear/read of turners scraping bowls out. One person in particular here on the board from the US that continues to use spindle roughing gouges on bowl work and advocates their use. Not sound advice. Not on hard Oz wood.

I've had two "incidents" in my turning workshop. One, caused by a wood fault that was ignored. Wrong The second when Col spun a platter in VM120 dovetail jaws at 3000 rpms. Needless to say, I (and the roof) were not impressed.

Turning is not a cheap past-time. Lathes, chisels, sharpening systems etc. And knowing all that, some "turn" with modified files. Lunacy.

Someone please Google Ken Wraight, Vic Wood, or Stephen Hughes and you will see where the bar is set. That's what I aim for but probably definitely will never get there.

After my mum died a few years back, Ken W re-turned a redgum platter that my dad had turned 25 years ago. At the time I was impressed. But not after Ken worked his magic. I've watched a few good/great turners turn. Jim McC and so many others. Now that is what I aim for - tool control. No sulking, just aspirations.

Sorry for the long post but it needed to be said.

Big A
13th August 2014, 09:07 PM
Nah, you have not frightened me off. I was late getting to the computer last night and then I got a few "server busy" messages. I did not want to risk blowing a post after a bit of work, even though it is already written in Word.

I will post this last part and then turn (ha ha) my attention to the advice that I have received with this thread and the lessons that I have to note. (There are a few posts to read through and analyse so that may be tomorrow's job.)

When the inside of the bowl was done and sanded, I reversed chucked it on a jam chuck with the live centre holding it and cut away most of the tenon. The last bit of the tenon went on the belt sander.

It is now down to 245mm X 88mm and 1.02 kg, so there is 13 kg on the floor of the shed and up in water vapour.

0855 shows what to me is now a bowl, rather than a lump of wood. Sanded to 240 and ready for some WOP gloss.

There are probably better finishes than WOP, but for ease of use it is my choice for now. (I don’t really want to spend the time and money to learn to spray things, and other finishes and oils are yet to be tried.)

0858, 0859, 0860 are the finished article, with enough coats of WOP to do the job. It looks a bit shiny in the photos, but in real life less so. The recipients are absolutely thrilled with it – timber from their property, with the name, the timber and my discreet little touch mark on it.

Not turning, but image 0861 is the Mercy Cross. I have added image 0864 to show a couple of paper towel spikes, one from the same wood as the bowl I have posted about and a few other bits and s**ts bowls as well. I did a big run of WOPing. Looking at that collection, I really do need to see about some tuition. In a few years I might be competent.

Metadata from the photographs show that the block was started on 02/06 and the bowl finished about 09/07, so it took a while.

Thanks for looking.
Alister.

jefferson
13th August 2014, 09:59 PM
Alister, good to see we didn't scare you off.

A nice bowl that will be appreciated. Next time we will talk about the size of your tenons, proper diameters etc and how you got thus far without a bowl gouge. Again, send CWS an order for some Vcmarc bowl gouges and you will find the whole process more pleasant/pleasurable. Just got t make some decent handles.

Going by the finish (unless you sanded and sanded) you've done very well with the file tools that no-one here will condone. Buy some decent tools. Most of us have near or more than a hundred.

Christos
13th August 2014, 10:36 PM
....... Most of us have near or more than a hundred.


I hope I do not get as bad as that. :U

Ticky
13th August 2014, 11:27 PM
As a new turner myself, & working on my first bowl, I found this thread very interesting.

I think there are valid points made about safety, Gouges v files & tenons, & I not only enjoyed reading the posts, but I learnt things along the way. I have a very nice set of chisels, but I just found out I am about 94 short of a set. I'm just learning how to sharpen & use 6:oo:

How will I know if I need different skills or different Chisels?.... At the moment, I feel I need to improve my skill level with the 6 I have, so I'll worry about the others at a later date.

I didn't know using Sharpend Files was dangerous, I mean, I can see how it would be with out a handle on it, but it seems they are. Glad I never stated down that road, now I never will.

I think the end result of Big A's bowl looks pretty good, but more importantly, Big A is happy with it.

I'm sure, no, absolutely positive that that all comments were well intended, & I think SAFETY issues should be pointed out quickly & clearly but comments on style .... Hmmm.

A few schools of thought there I suppose. On the one hand, If we blow sunshine up someone ass & say yeah mate, looks great, Are we doing them a favor if it looks like crap. I personally agree that that is not the best way for someone to improve. But I'm also thinking maybe constructive criticism, a few style suggestions, might be better than coming straight out & bagging someones work.

I am new to turning, but have been a member of these woodworking forums for many years. Mainly, I build furniture, & I would say that my work, on a score of 100, would prolly rate at about 25 to 40, compared to the better crafts people on these forums, & that could be over rated. But I am very proud of every thing I make, because when I complete a project, I know that I have done the very best I can do. It's prolly not as good as you can do, but it is as good as I can do.

Suggest and encourage I think.

JMO


Steve

Old-Biker-UK
14th August 2014, 07:35 AM
Reading all the above I feel I should put a case for the ' old files' school of woodturning.
Old files (as apposed to some modern ones) are good quality carbon steel and, if tempered and hardened appropriately (as mentioned above) and provided with a proper handle, make excellent turning tools for those of us who find it difficult to justify spending anything from £30 to £70 for a 'quality' 'named' chisel & anything up to £300 for a fancy sharpening jig.
I have skews, scrapers, flute-less gouges, bedans & parting tools all made from old files and have been turning for quite a while, I still have all my fingers and no holes in my head except those nature intended.
Other items made from old files include a variety of small chisels, leatherworking & woodworking awls, marking knives, Scribers etc.
My point being that old files are an excellent source of carbon steel and if a tool made from a 10p car boot sale file is made correctly it is no more dangerous than a tool costing £35.53p + PP (Henry Taylor 1" round scraper).




Mark

Mobyturns
14th August 2014, 08:42 AM
.... My point being that old files are an excellent source of carbon steel and if a tool made from a 10p car boot sale file is made correctly it is no more dangerous than a tool costing £35.53p + PP (Henry Taylor 1" round scraper). Mark

You have valid points about files, but two things jump out for me "old files are an excellent source of carbon steel" & "(If it) is made correctly".

My issue is that no matter how much effort is put into education or disseminating information on tool use, safety or technique there will always be turners who ignore, misunderstand or incorrectly identify items or will fail to faithfully follow techniques/advice in making or repurposing a tool. That will never change. I believe very few turners have the equipment, knowledge or skill to re-purpose old files safely.

As a generalization – files are unsafe to use as turning tools. Many (all?) clubs are being forced to ban “home made” tools to comply with hazard & risk management requirements by their insurers. I for one will not turn near or be in the presence of a turner using old files to turn with.

Christos
14th August 2014, 11:56 AM
We have gone a little bit off the original topic in regards to using files.

I will consider leaving the last two post in this thread and suggest that another thread be started in regards to the use of files.

I quite enjoyed the work in progress that the member had created. Wood turning is not an easy topic to create a work in progress as quite often the case the piece would be finished within a short period of time.

smiife
14th August 2014, 08:54 PM
Nah,you have not frightened me off. I was late getting to the computer last night and then I got a few "server busy" messages. I did not want to risk blowing a post after a bit of work, even though it is already written in Word.

I will post this last part and then turn (ha ha) my attention to the advice that I have received with this thread and the lessons that I have to note. (There are a few posts to read through and analyse so that may be tomorrow's job.)

When the inside of the bowl was done and sanded, I reversed chucked it on a jam chuck with the live centre holding it and cut away most of the tenon. The last bit of the tenon went on the belt sander.

It is now down to 245mm X 88mm and 1.02 kg, so there is 13 kg on the floor of the shed and up in water vapour.

0855 shows what to me is now a bowl, rather than a lump of wood. Sanded to 240 and ready for some WOP gloss.

There are probably better finishes than WOP, but for ease of use it is my choice for now. (I don’t really want to spend the time and money to learn to spray things, and other finishes and oils are yet to be tried.)

0858, 0859, 0860 are the finished article, with enough coats of WOP to do the job. It looks a bit shiny in the photos, but in real life less so. The recipients are absolutely thrilled with it – timber from their property, with the name, the timber and my discreet little touch mark on it.

Not turning, but image 0861 is the Mercy Cross. I have added image 0864 to show a couple of paper towel spikes, one from the same wood as the bowl I have posted about and a few other bits and s**ts bowls as well. I did a big run of WOPing. Looking at that collection, I really do need to see about some tuition. In a few years I might be competent.

Metadata from the photographs show that the block was started on 02/06 and the bowl finished about 09/07, so it took a while.

Thanks for looking.
Alister.

Hi alister,
You have a nice collection there well done!
The cross looks good too, :2tsup:
Doesn, t matter how long It takes, as long as
you are happy with the end result

Big A
14th August 2014, 09:02 PM
Well, I have had a bit of a sulk, had a dose of HTFU and will now get on with life.

At the very worst, I had thoughts that this forum was an old boy’s club and there was a conspiracy to slap a newcomer down – I had lots of time to ponder while I was removing French polish from a desk. But that passed, as I realised that it was just tough love. However, I have an observation to make, and that is that some of you perhaps need to work on your presentation skills. Some of the replies got the message through in a much nicer way.

I don’t really know why I decided to put the WIP up, other than sharing. It seemed like a good idea at the time and I suppose I was after platitudes, (rather than adulation as one poster put it) more for the effort of doing the posting than for the bowl. After all, the beauty of any article is in the eye of the beholder, so naturally there would be comments that I would not like. The thread has been a great opportunity for learning. Note that I did not say it was a learning experience – being given advice and not taking notice of it is not learning. So I may or may not learn!

What have I picked up so far? An experienced turner can be prescient and tell that the final shape will be just from photos of the rough cut! Using old files is not on. Fabricated jaw sets can be risky. There is at least one big dick out there – mine is quite small by comparison and likely to remain so unless I win Lotto. A tenon needs to be as big as it needs to be and that depends. Tuition from a good or master turner is a good idea.

Mobyturns, I will not quote your post No 19, but refer to it and thank you very much. You have said what needed to be said in a nice way. There is a pat on the back and encouragement, but also a kick in the behind for using practices that are less safe. You said most of what I was going to say, but from your side of the equation and put some reasonableness into the debate.

Most of you would know about the saying that if you represent yourself in a court of law, you have fool for a client. So, if you are a self taught turner, did you have a fool for a pupil?

Thanks for all your comments. After all that, it was mostly a pleasure to present this WIP. My next WIP will be on making your own turning tools and will be posted on the first day of April next year.

Alister.

Ticky
15th August 2014, 12:06 AM
My next WIP will be on making your own turning tools and will be posted on the first day of April next year.

Alister.

Hey Big A,

I don't blame you at all if this is the position you choose to take, but I SINCERELY hope you don't.

From a fellow new turners point of view, we need all the help we can get. I joined a club to try & learn, & I had about 3 clubs to choose from within about 40mins from home, but not everybody lives in the city & not everybody has this option.

I learnt heaps from this thread, & I'm prolly not the only one.

You copt a few Harsh comments I thought, well meaning but a bit short on the delivery. You had a lot of good ones as well.

This forum is just like any other large group, you will find the same types of people here as in a fishing club or a front bar.

Most will be pretty easy going, some, not so much & there will always be some who don't share your point of view.

I been here for years mate, generally speaking, they are a friendly & helpful lot, but heres the thing. One day, you might be the only person that knows the solution to my problem.


Steve

Big A
15th August 2014, 10:11 AM
Steve,

The last sentence in my post was definately tongue-in-cheek, but I forgot to put a smiley at the end.

Thanks for the rest of your comments - I think you have neatly summed up the state of play.

I will post again when I see the need. (Or want to lose some skin:U)

Alister.

Mobyturns
16th August 2014, 12:01 AM
You have said what needed to be said in a nice way. Alister.

Alister,

I appreciate your words, thank you. Hope you didn't sulk for too long. I learned a lot from my Dad a firm hand, plenty of encouragement but a friendly kick up the bum if you deserved one.

One thing I would recommend to any turner is to get a much wider exposure to turning techniques and work holding methods. I'm a firm believer that no matter how good you think you are or no matter how inexperienced another turner is there is always something new to learn or something share.

Good luck with your turning odyssey and please stay safe.