Rod Gilbert 17th August 2014, 01:56 PM I have 2 problem's with my router, I cannot get maximum depth to activate the collet lock and get the collet above the table and my switch is stuck with the safety slide open and cannot be pushed to close and the switch does not engage with the router. I removed from the table pluged in and turned on the neon in the switch is on but the switch only turns the router on when wiggled I imagine a faulty switch or has come away from it's mounting,I have removed the screw's from the switch cover and cannot remove the cover it is very firm in place and I can't see anything else to release to remove it any clue's out there.
Regards Rod.
wolften 17th August 2014, 02:53 PM Gidday Rod,
Can't help with the switch but have you removed the plunge springs from theTriton.
Mine is mounted under the table and I have no probs undoing the collet above the table with the springs removed.
A Duke 17th August 2014, 03:50 PM Hi,
If the switch cover is not covering the switch the collet lock will not work, this is to protect ageist locking it while running or switching on while locked.
The works are probably clogged up with dust and shavings. The switch cover is difficult to remove and harder to get back on because of the spring for the depth gage, so I would recommend a visit to a pro. If you insist on having a go you have to loosen the screws that hold the body together so the tong and grove can come apart. The earlier modles were prone to getting dust in the switch and stopping.
Hope that helps
Evanism 17th August 2014, 05:14 PM ADuke is right. The little box to the side sucks in dust and it becomes packed.
Inconveniently, the five screws that hold it on are only part of the story. You need to seperate the aluminium body a tad from the upper orange plastic.
It isnt too hard and observation and love will get you through it.
Here is a explosion diagram of the guts: http://www.richelieu.com/documents/docsGr/106/117/6/1061176/1248986.pdf and a procedure for doing most of it: http://www.raygirling.com/dismtra1.htm
Ive done this twice. Once on a 2 year old to fit new bearings top and bottom, and recently on my new one (under table) to remove the plastic lockout. I turn it on and off with an external lit switch now. Much better for undertable work and I don't need to open the dust cabinet for bit changes.
About 10 mins work all up.
Before assembly, cut a bit of electrical tape and make a little dust sleeve against the safety-slider. This will stop the dust. I will make sense when you have it apart and in your hands.
Rod Gilbert 18th August 2014, 08:38 PM Hi All,
Firstly the plunge spring has been removed from the start purchased from carba-tec end of last year the router has been in a table since then, the depth through table winder won't raise the router enough to change the bit the stop doesn't engage as it does jams up before it should it has been working fine but getting harder to wind up the last bit to lock the shaft( it has been working fine until recently). As for the switch I have seen both of those link's and they both give no detail to remove the switch cover. The slide is jammed and the switch doesn't seem to be working correctly can be wiggled and only starts when this is done and doesn't stay on. I have now set up an external switch and power point inside the cabinet that the router is plugged into. The router has only run a set raised panel draw fronts and door for the router bench and maybe another hour in total use until now. When in use it has performed very well until now.
Evanism 19th August 2014, 06:12 PM Rod, it's all pretty straight forward and very low on the mystery.
Take out the four big screws holding the metal base to the top orange plastic. They are really hard to turn as they have been tightened by The Incredible Hulk, but a number 2 Phillips on a ratchet and extension will do the trick.
Undo the five screws on the power side box. The little one near the power cord is one of these five and needs undo-ing.
Using a soft faced mallet, TAP the lower metal bit while holding the orange bit an inch or so above the table. As you gently tap it, it will come apart. No need to be Thor. You only need it to come apart 1cm, MAX. You don't need, or want, to disassemble it.
Once it's opened a cm, stuff in a chunk of scrap to keep it open. The power box will pull off easily. There is a spring in there, so watch that it doesn't fly directly into your eye or accross the shed :)
Dismantle the power bit and clear out the crammed in fug. Do the tape suggestion, remove the clear plastic doohickey completely then un-dismantle it.
When mantleing the top and bottom, be observant it is fully set back together before putting in the screws. It's a tight fit. Ensure the screws are Hulk tight again.
I like your cabinet, but it looks like there isn't a big dust hose going in. Your poor router is going to cook itself alive!
Rod Gilbert 20th August 2014, 08:21 PM Hi Evanism,
Thank you I will get to it in the next couple of day's our wood work club is building a Cubby house to raffle so I have been busy elsewhere. You're description will be a great help thank you. The cabinet has a 4"hose in the back a 21/2" top hose in the fence and the bottom of the door panel has a slot across the bottom to allow for draft through the cabinet that houses the router.
Regards Rod.
Rod Gilbert 25th August 2014, 08:57 AM Hi Guy's,
Thanks for the input I was holding back on pulling this apart and started a few times but as said the big screws that hold the main body together were very tight and I couldn't find my socket to hold a screwdriver bit to use with ratchet handle, so I removed the base so I could get access with a #2phillips screwdriver and you were right Evanism they were tight but I managed to get them to come. The rest of the job was over in a few minuets there was little dust in the switch box but the slide cover was stuck and I pulled it out a couple of times and put it back and no difference then after putting the spring back in on the third occasion there was a click from some part of the slide don't know where but it now works fine. The other problem was the height adjustment this I also thought would be caused by build up of dust also but no very little dust in the work's and again for no reason that I am aware of the thing now work's as it should again and is remounted in the table and work's fine obviously I did something right but I don't know what but is all good and at least now I have no hesitation at pulling it down for any future problems. Thanks again for the input it gave me the confidence to tackle the pull down and it was simple and there were no spare part's which is always good.
Regards Rod.
chambezio 25th August 2014, 10:10 AM I have had my Triton router in my cast iron topped table (Durden branded but out of China) for about 14 years. It works very well in itself and I have added a kit from PWS to be able to do the height adjustment through the table. I wasn't very pleased with the "kit" as it needed some modification from me to get it to work. (Very flimsy parts/procedure) Anyway the other day when I used it for a 10 minute job the speed of the router started to go faster and slower on its own. I am suspecting the variable speed control to be on its way out. I never really change the speed for different router bits so if I take the controller out altogether then wire it direct to the motor, will this be detrimental to the motor?
The clogging up of the switch is a routine cleaning job. I have added dust extraction above and below the table and have built a box around the router to pick up any dust and to aid in cooling the router when in use.
Evanism 25th August 2014, 08:44 PM I am suspecting the variable speed control to be on its way out. I never really change the speed for different router bits so if I take the controller out altogether then wire it direct to the motor, will this be detrimental to the motor?
I'd imagine this would be disastrous! Unregulated full power, it will spin itself into a hand grenade!
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