Blade setting mallet

[derekcohen]

There have been a few blade setting mallets posted in recent weeks and so I thought I'd add mine to the list.

This is a little different, incorporating a few ideas of my own.

The head is turned from Jarrah and the handle from a few scraps of American Oak (in fact, I had to laminate three pieces together to have enough).

What is different?

Firstly, I wanted a round head since there are no corners to chip (my previous few were testimony to the vulnerability of square faces). It also need to be wide enough to spread the load. The head diameter is 32mm (1-1/4"). See picture 1.

Secondly, the rear of the mallet is squared to tap in wedges (since a round head lacks sufficient area at the edge). The rear rectangle is 12mm (1/2" high). See pictures 2 and 3.

Thirdly, the handle is offset by 3 degrees, which makes it easier to tap flush (as your arm/hand arcs). Length of handle to head is 240mm (9-1/2"). This can just be seen in picture 4.

Overall, the mallet has a nice balance, but a road test over the next few weeks with the HNT Gordons will say whether it is functional or not.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[routermaniac]

Some good thinking there Derek, overcoming some of the things I dont like about round head plane setting mallets... namely the reduced area available to strike the wedge with, hence leading to premature damage of both the wedge and the mallet. Your version should work very well.

Let us know how you find it compared to the square version.

[Driver]

Another thoughtful, well-executed piece of work, Mister C. Well done!

[bitingmidge]

I like it too....BUT :D ........

I love the fact that we can spend so much time thinking about what is really a stick to dong things with!

In my latest case, I went square (ever so slightly tapered actually) because:
a) I figured it was my best chance of actually hitting anything
b) see a)

Although I also thought hard about a similar rectangular taper to the wedge-hitting end (mine was to be on the outside edge rather than centred).

Then I thought I'd eight-side the square end so the whole thing looked like a flattened claw hammer really.

Then I thought all that was too much trouble, and justified not doing it because it would take 25% or more weight off the business end.

I'm glad you've done it though Derek... and I'm glad we'll eventually get a full report on how it works before we madly go off and copy it!!

Maybe I'll just build my other version and send it over for a comparison??

Cheers,

P (who knows dick about hammers of any kind!)
:D :D :D

[Wood Borer]

The theory sounds fine, the hammer looks good, I'm sure the road test will reveal the design and workmanship are fine too.

[LineLefty]

Hmm, I'm using a pine kiddies mallet that came with a toy toolkit that someone gave littlelefty. I know I should make something a bit nice but hey, it works!

Very nice work derek, is that turned on the drilllathe?

[AlexS]

Very nice, Derek. I might modify mine to include the taper on the back - it's a great idea.

[derekcohen]

Hi Adam

It was turned on the $69 GMC lathe. Great tool IF you restrict its use to turning handles on the short bed.

Hi Alex

There are two mods I might make (i.e. need to keep an eye on while using this one), making the mallet a little heavier (it only weighs 6 oz), and making the "wedge" face more defined (scolloping it out rather than just a mitre cut).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[IanW]

All this hammer-making prompted me to finish the little brass hammer I started about a hundred moons ago, so here's another version of a stick with a lump on the end, to dong things with...
The head is cut from a chunk of 19 x 25 (squared and the bevel chopped off). I drilled a 7/16 hole fot the handle, and tapered both sides with a coarse round file. Handle is red Lancewood. Had to guess at an appropriate length by hefting a couple of other smallish hammers, but it seems to have turned out about right. Time will tell....
Cheers,

[TassieKiwi]

I bought the square brass LV plane hammer with the wooden insert. Wonderful:p . I like your examples though - nice.

[derekcohen]

Ian

That is a great mallet ... hammer? I think I will now have to have a go at a brass one as well. :)

The rear end looks good - what is your opinion of this for tapping wedges (I assume that is why you did it so)?

The square front is a concern for me, but I plan on my next one to create a (gently) domed face. This will, hopefully, keep the edges out of contact with anything softer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[IanW]

The rear end looks good - what is your opinion of this for tapping wedges (I assume that is why you did it so)?

The square front is a concern for me, but I plan on my next one to create a (gently) domed face. This will, hopefully, keep the edges out of contact with anything softer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
I tossed-up about the shape for a long time. I first decided to make one after seeing a friend's effort. She made a round head, (which she turned on her wood lathe). It looked really spiffy, with the brass all polished up, but I finally decided the square shape would be better for tapping wedges and blades. That's also the reason for not 'doming' the face. I have a square-faced cabinet-makers' hammer I use quite a bit, and I know what you mean about sharp corners! If you slew it sideways just a teeny bit on the last hit, you have a nasty little triangular ding to deal with. :mad: But it is convenient when nailing up against vertical edge, etc.

Yes, I did make this for adjusting plane blades, but expect it to get used for bashing other stuff as well. At the moment I have only one regularly-used plane which doesn't have a screw adjustor, but hope to have several more soon!!! The cut-off end is for blade tapping, actually, (for sideways alignments, or any other situation where a smaller face would seem to be appropriate). It seemed ok on the trial-run. If the corners on the main face become a problem, I'll take a file to them quick-smart. One thing about home-made tools is no hesitations in modifying the prototype! ;)

Cheers, and avagoodweekend,

[Jack E]

I use the Lee Valley Plane Hammer
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/planes/50k5601s1.jpg

It works a treat.
I don't know if the wooden insert is replaceable, I guess I will find out one day.

Jack