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Landseka
27th June 2005, 09:09 PM
I have just rotated the blades in my Ryobi 318mm Thicknesser.

Using the supplied depth setting gauge I replaced them & tried a cut.

Yerk!

I got a very wavy surface and there was no real drive by the drive roller. I actually had to push the piece throught the machine. It is as though the blade is set too high I feel but I did use the gauge.

Anyone had this problem?

Regards

Neil.

Gumby
27th June 2005, 09:25 PM
A wave pattern would indicate that a blade is set at a different height from the others , or perhaps all are different. I think it's back to the start and try again. :o It's the one job I'm dreading on my combo machine and keep putting it off. All the blades must bne exactly the same and that doesn't sound an easy task. I think one of those magnetic setting gauges is on the cards for me.

Landseka
28th June 2005, 02:44 PM
Hah.....I guess that will teach me to read the manual CAREFULLY.

After the third attempt at setting the depth correctly, I looked at the picture describing how to use the supplied depth gauge........oops...:o....the blade is meant to rest ON the ramp, not in the trough as I had been doing.

It is a very simple operation, when done as per the book Gumby don't be intimidated by it. Does your maching come with a depth setting gauge?

The machine cuts like a dream again now.

Regards

Neil

Gumby
28th June 2005, 02:47 PM
It is a very simple operation, when done as per the book Gumby don't be intimidated by it. Does your maching come with a depth setting gauge?

The machine cuts like a dream again now.

Regards

Neil

That's great Neil.

The ML 392 doesn't come with anything so it's off to Carbatec when the time comes, for one of those magnetic gauges. At least your post gives me a bit more confidence. :D

BobR
28th June 2005, 05:56 PM
Gumby, I use the magnetic gauges and they work a treat. The first time took a little while. Not because they are difficult to use, just being careful. Next tiem it was all over in no time.

Gumby
28th June 2005, 07:33 PM
Gumby, I use the magnetic gauges and they work a treat. The first time took a little while. Not because they are difficult to use, just being careful. Next tiem it was all over in no time.

The one from Carba-tec Bob ? (I think it's around $80 if I'm not mistaken.)

And since I haven't changed blades yet, i thought maybe a honing guide would help. I'm not really sure how you tell when the blades need changing either :confused: Any clues ?

Sprog
28th June 2005, 09:59 PM
Gumby,

This may be a more cost effective solution and they work, which is a bonus

Scroll down to BSJ-01

Blade Setting Jig (http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/planer-machine-accessories-441_0.aspx)

Gumby
28th June 2005, 10:21 PM
Gumby,

This may be a more cost effective solution and they work, which is a bonus

Scroll down to BSJ-01

Blade Setting Jig (http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/planer-machine-accessories-441_0.aspx)

That looks pretty nifty Sprog - I wonder if anybody here has given them a try.

hawkinob
28th June 2005, 10:34 PM
Neil,
Another apprehensive user (rather maintenance doer) - I have a Ryobi AP13 which I think is the same as yours? If so is Fig 6 on page 6 of the Instructions the picture that you are referring to?

Hopefully I won't have to lug mine the 200ks to Bunbury !!!!

Regards,
Bob H.

Landseka
28th June 2005, 11:11 PM
Neil,
Another apprehensive user (rather maintenance doer) - I have a Ryobi AP13 which I think is the same as yours? If so is Fig 6 on page 6 of the Instructions the picture that you are referring to?

Hopefully I won't have to lug mine the 200ks to Bunbury !!!!

Regards,
Bob H.
Yes Bob, that IS the one that I have, and that IS the picture. If you look closely at it and at the adjusting jig that came with the unit, you will see that the blade needs to rest ON the ramp on the jig. I had set mine in the trough thinking that this would give the the correct setting.

It really is easier to actually change the blades than read / talk about it.

Thankfully the blades are double sided as they cost $40 odd a set. I also hope they can be sharpenned, can't see why not.

I have to do the trip to Perth on Friday for the weekend.....good opportunity to see what bandsaws are about. :D

Regards

Neil.

Dean
28th June 2005, 11:25 PM
That looks pretty nifty Sprog - I wonder if anybody here has given them a try.

Havent tried that particular device but I have a Jointer-Pal blade setting jig which is basically the same principle. Works well on setting my jointer knives.

BobR
28th June 2005, 11:26 PM
Gumby, the first time I "played" with the blade setting and the jig (Carba-tec) was when I first bought the ML-392. I was not confident that all was well out of the box. Since then I have changed the blades once - old ones must have hit a knot or something. I also have the honing stone (K-10-D). Easy to use and puts an edge on the blades real quick. Less than 60 seconds for the three!!!

zenwood
28th June 2005, 11:28 PM
I've got an AP13 and had no trouble changing the blades. I take them to a blade sharpening shop down the road.

I have had some trouble with the rollers slipping though. I have to clean them quite regularly.

Once I install some dust extraction, I expect much of this problem to go away. See thread

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=18415

for a discussion of how to do dust extraction on a thicknesser.

hawkinob
29th June 2005, 11:05 PM
Thanks Neil. Confidence has now reached an all time high.
Bob H.

Gumby
29th June 2005, 11:15 PM
Once I install some dust extraction, I expect much of this problem to go away. See thread

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=18415

for a discussion of how to do dust extraction on a thicknesser.

Thanks guys. That gives me a bit of confidence. I have good dust extraction set up with a 2HP unit and a pre-separator like Wongo posted with an 80L plastic bin. I initially found running a jointer or thicknesser without good extraction a real problem. Not any more
:D

Iain
30th June 2005, 08:53 AM
I'm not really sure how you tell when the blades need changing either :confused: Any clues ?
They scream and protest and cutting seems to take a bit longer and is not as clean as it used to be.
Generally when they get to be a bit noisy and the finish is a bit rougher than what you like it is time to look at a sharpen.
With the gauge mine came with a bar and depth setting blocks either end, it sits on the blade block (?) and the springs push the blades into the gauge then you sytematically tighten the nuts, I start in the centre then go to extreme left, then extreme right then progress to opposites from there, just like tightening wheel nuts.
I just tighten to firm on the first pass then go over them all again and put a bit of pressure on then proceed with the lock nuts.
My jig came in three pieces, two setting blocks and a rod to join the two which spans the length of the blade, plus the jesus clips to hold them together, I managed to assemble them back to front and got a sloping cut, grumble grumble, pull apart, see the problem and start again.
It is also a good idea to take the blades out occassionally and clean the cutter head for there can be a build up of gunk between the blade and the cutter head.
Turps of metho will remove most of this, and if you have a slight nick in the blades, you can now offset them, about 1-2mm either way and save yourself a sharpening session.

Gumby
30th June 2005, 09:06 AM
They scream and protest and cutting seems to take a bit longer and is not as clean as it used to be.


Like having a shave in the morning
:rolleyes:


Thanks for the info :)

Iain
30th June 2005, 09:13 AM
:D :D :D :D
Nice return, game set and match, now wheres that bloody razor.............

keith53
30th June 2005, 05:57 PM
They scream and protest and cutting seems to take a bit longer and is not as clean as it used to be.
Amen to that - mine really told me that the blades needed sharpening. There's a post hereabouts by Major Panic with a link to his website which contains a very compehensive article on thicknesser tuning. I went through this a few weeks ago and now have a different machine all together. A necessary ingredient is an accurate dial gauge and also maintaining a constant relationship between the cutterhead blades and the infeed & outfeed rollers, the chip breaker and the table rollers.

What I found with mine is that the reseller had just unpacked the machine, put it on the floor and made no attempt to perform any adjustments at all. Nor did they tell me I had to do any. Anyway, its better than new now...