Is there a prize for the worst thread ever cut HELP!

[th62]

I'm having problems cutting a decent thread. I've never had any problems in the past with previous lathes. My current lathe, when I first got it, was cutting terrible threads; however, when I included a helix angle on the tool bit all was resolved. Yesterday I tried cutting a 1/2" UNF thread, to say it was abysmal is downplaying it - see pictures.

The tool piece is ground at 60 degrees, I've tried side rake from around two to 6 degrees. I have also tried grinding the tool bit with negative helix right up to around five degrees - all to no avail. After all angles have been ground, I finish off by flatting the tip slightly and finishing with an oil stone. I have spent the day trying to figure out the problem - all to no avail.

My method is: set tool with fish plate and angle the compound slide at 58 degrees (normally at 90 degrees when parallel with top slide). I then touch the tip of tool on work and set cross slide to zero, back off the top slide and move carriage to start of work. Wind in top slide to zero, engage lever and make first cut.

At the end of thread, stop motor, wind out cross slide one full turn, switch motor to reverse and return carriage to start of work (no threading dial). Wind cross slide in one full turn to zero mark, wind in compound (tried .02, .04, and .06 mm) and perform second cut.

Continue as above until finished.

Lathe speed is 150 rpm. As I'm threading to a shoulder, I really can't go any faster.

This is the only lathe I've ever cut a helix angle on the cutting tool.

I've also tried using my diamond/tangential holder, first grinding the tip to 60 degrees. The thread is marginally better, but nothing I could bring myself to actually use.

As you can see in the pictures, the steel is tearing on both leading and trailing cut as well as the top of the thread. The thread form is abysmal.

The form of the thread when cut using the tangential was passable. but again the finish was abysmal. I tried a reasonably heavy cut with the tangential first off, but even finer cuts didn’t improve the finish.

What am I missing?

[scottyd]

What sort of angle have you got on the top face of that tool?

It could be the steel youre using too. Is it mystery meat or some sort of really ductile stock? that can make life miserable with lots of tearing like what you are experiencing, particularly at lower speeds. Adding the tailstock in might help a touch too.

[th62]

No top rake and the steel I'm using is standard bright. The overhang is only around 25-30mm, but I'll add the tailstock tomorrow - can't hurt.

[GSRocket]

I have absolutely no idea, having a total of about three hours of turning experience but I'm wondering
if the cutting piece is extended too far out of the holder causing it to flex.
Perhaps raising the holder and lowering the cutting tool would help...maybe.

[cba_melbourne]

Maybe some cutting oil would help?

[morrisman]

Just wondering how sharp that tool is ? You need to hone the tool edges on a arkansas stone . If you can see a reflection on the tool edge , this means it isnt sharp enough . Mike

[th62]

I've tried shortening the tool overhang, made no difference. Also tried with coolant, cutting oil and also my cleaning fluid (oil/turps mixture). No luck there either.

Not familiar with 'Arkansas stone', I have a very fine oil stone, which I used today, out of exasperation. To tell the truth, I've never used an oilstone before.

I have a piece of black on which I tried different things, I'll have a look and post if I can find it.

Did anyone spot a problem with setup or method?.

[familyguy]

I've seen that effect in some of my past experiences.

Try taking a second or third pass at the same depth, if you find more than a smidgen of steel being removed then it possibly might be irregular flex in the system causing the work and tool to deflect away from each other and then spring back only to be deflected away again, at least that's what I put it down to. A sharper tool or smaller cuts with multiple passes could help along with cutting fluid or your choice.

[morrisman]

Not familiar with 'Arkansas stone', od?.

This may help you
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=173080&highlight=arkansas

these hard arkansas stones are available on ebay Mike

[th62]

This is a piece of black I machined half a dozen threads on using different tool geometries and using a live centre, they're all much the same - orrible.
The second pic is of the compound slide angle table: when parallel with the cross slide it reads 90 degrees, so I swung it anti clockwise around 28 degrees, not the 58 degrees I quoted at the start, I assume that's correct?

[krisfarm]

th62,
That looks like a nasty piece of steel you have,the material is being torn out not cut. The cut shown in your photo looks way to deep to me. I would hone the side faces and top of your tool with a diamond lap until you cannot see the edge, reduce your speed down to 100 RPM or less use a live centre and plenty of heavy cutting oil and reduce your depth of cut down to .002" to start and finish with .001" cuts and do a spring cut every second or third cut. Good luck.
Bob

[TKO]

Set your tool with fish gauge after you have set your compound slide to the correct angle which
ever thread you are cutting ,I think perhaps you are using the wrong compound deg angle .
you are cutting an inclusive angle of 60 deg so try 29.5 deg on your top slide to the lateral angle of the thread, and the tool will be entering the cut at he correct angle , and take smaller cuts.I hope this will help.

Eddie

[pipeclay]

Looks as if the problem lies in either the material or the lathe ,as you have had no problems in the past cutting threads.

[simonl]

Hi.

While the incorrect compound angle may affect the shape of youf V form, it does not contribute to the poor quality cut. If/when I get results like that I would be lookjng at the tool, tool post, DOC and lastly the spindle bearings.

Simon

[Pete F]

I think you're trying to baffle yourself with things like helix angle, as it is not important if cutting standard pitch V threads. The depth of cut looks "ambitious" for that material. Grind a standard 60 degree tool with no back rake and sufficient side clearance. 28 degrees in feed sounds fine, but try it again with smaller feed and just plunge straight in if you wish to eliminate compound angle. It looked correct to me however, just looking quickly at the pictures as I'm away at present.

[pippin88]

Shouldn't imperial threads be cut with a 55° tool? (Not that this affects your cut quality)

[Pete F]

Shouldn't imperial threads be cut with a 55° tool? (Not that this affects your cut quality)

No, he is cutting UNF not Whitworth.

[th62]

The cut with the tangential was a one off for a comparison only. Most cuts were done at .02mm on the compound. That is the smallest cut I can make (aside from moving the compound half a graduation). And of course with the compound set at 28 degrees, the cut would be less than .02mm. I'll try half graduation cuts today anyway.

The 58 degrees I mentioned was a typo, the compound is set at 28 degrees. With the compound at that angle, if you rest the cutting edge of the tool against the side of the compound slide, the tool sits parallel with the top slide (one or two degrees off). But I'll try moving the compound to 28 today and also try plunging.

I doubt very much if it's the spindle bearings as it's a new machine, but I will reset all gibs and check spindle bearing pre load just to rule them out as a problem.

The material is standard bright I bought from Greens not too long ago and it machines nicely with HSS, just not threading apparently.

After two solid days I'm starting to run out of patience.

Pete F, I read your tips on a previous post and also on another forum - very helpful. I'm assuming the Pete F on the other forum is you!

Thanks also to the rest of you, your tips will give me something to do today, if I don't kick the lathe to death first...

[Pete F]

Pete F, I read your tips on a previous post and also on another forum - very helpful. I'm assuming the Pete F on the other forum is you!

I think some people consider one Pete F on the internet is more than enough. :D

It's a shame I'm not still in Adelaide, as I was there last week and could have swung by to drink all your beer and dispense copious quantities of pointless statements of the obvious until the beer ran out. Sadly you'll have to settle with me taking another look at your pictures now I'm at a larger monitor and see if there's anything obvious I can see.

[Pete F]

Ok yes, I think there's something funky going on with your tool grind there in picture #4, however it's quite a small picture. Can you post a larger picture of your tool you've ground please?

[simonl]

Generally, if I get unsatisfactory results when cutting, I straight away look to the tool geometry. I find 90% of the time it's because I have failed to create sufficient clearance for the cutting edge or a similar issue. It's rarely a DOC or feed rate problem because I tend to err on being very conservative with such. I'm not doing it for a living so I see no need to unnecessarily load up the machine. Also, it's always 100% my fault no matter where the problem lies, so no use in kicking the machine even though I feel the same way sometimes! :B

If you can't produce a 0.02mm DOC without chatter then something is definitely wrong. Are you sure they didn't give you some spring steel or something? :doh:

Simon

[th62]

Kicking inanimate objects always makes me feel better I've noticed - with the possible exception of the big toe of course.

It is never my fault, not when there is a shed full of tools to blame - fortunately I'm not a tradesman.

Luckily I didn't have to resort to kicking though, it appears the problem was the apron clamp/guide.

This morning I checked the spindle preload, then tore apart the compound and top slides, cleaned up, reassembled and adjusted gibs. But when I grabbed the apron and shook, I found a little movement at the front.. The carriage guide/clamp appears to have been the problem, so I shaved a smidgen off and did the same to the rear guide/clamp, and reassembled. Runs smoothly along the bed with no knocking when changing direction now.

Ground another bit (no honing and no helix), clamped in holder with a 12mm overhang and (with fingers crossed) cut a thread using coolant and the compound, finishing of with a couple of very fine plunge cuts to smooth the trailing edge of thread. Huge improvement, the thread isn’t cut to correct size or cleaned up after - just a roughy to test straight off the tool. Still not as good as I’d like, but approaching useable. Presumably attention to tool sharpening should improve. I may send off for a diamond or Arkansas stone next and try that.

I did cut another with a reshaped tangential/diamond bit with much the same results.

The picture of the thread was shot from a distance of around 25 - 40mm and brushed off with a rag for clarity. Sorry about the quality but the camera won't focus unless I shine a torch on the object.

I noticed from new when winding the carriage back and forth there was a bit of a knock when changing direction, probably the apron moving up and down. Should have checked that when first setting the lathe up.

[Pete F]

It's very difficult to tell from your photos, but I wonder if you have sufficient end relief on the tool? Associated with that is ensuring the tool is exactly on centre when threading. If the end relief isn't sufficient or the tool is above centre it will rub and will likely cause issues such as you've described.

[KBs PensNmore]

th62 where did you buy the lathe from, hope it wasn't ozmestore :((on fleabay? Unless it's from a reputable firm, a lot of lathes are thrown together. I've read that some places suggest that the lathe be stripped down completely, washed of rust preventative, lubricated and assembled/adjusted correctly. Axminster in the UK sell units that are ready for use or ones that you do yourself. I know the one I was given, had done about 4 hours work, had to have the apron dismantled and adjusted the same as what you did, with some judicial filling to be done in certain places. Diamond files can be bought from Bunnies.
Kryn

[Pete F]

I've just grabbed a couple of my V thread tools, one is 55 degrees and one is 60 degrees, but it really doesn't matter for this purpose. This is what your tool should look like. Obviously the one on the left in the first photo is upside down, but I wanted to get both tools in the same photo.

324142

324143

[Techo1]

It's very difficult to tell from your photos, but I wonder if you have sufficient end relief on the tool? Associated with that is ensuring the tool is exactly on centre when threading. If the end relief isn't sufficient or the tool is above centre it will rub and will likely cause issues such as you've described.


The end relief has nothing to do with the tool rubbing, the tool appears OK in that respect, extra side clearance to allow for the helix angle of the thread is what is required to stop the tool rubbing on the leading edge.

[Jekyll and Hyde]

This morning I checked the spindle preload, then tore apart the compound and top slides, cleaned up, reassembled and adjusted gibs. But when I grabbed the apron and shook, I found a little movement at the front.. The carriage guide/clamp appears to have been the problem, so I shaved a smidgen off and did the same to the rear guide/clamp, and reassembled. Runs smoothly along the bed with no knocking when changing direction now.

Glad to hear you seem to have sorted it. When I was looking at the photo of your earlier attempts before I read on to the end, I was thinking it looked like there were varying depths in the thread, as though something was flexing or moving under load and then springing back. Wasn't sure if it was just the photo though, but though I'd throw that comment in now anyway on the off chance it's not just the photo, and someone else has the same issue at some point...

[Pete F]

The end relief has nothing to do with the tool rubbing ...

Ok, what do you think the end relief is there for?

[simonl]

I inherited my lathe when it was less than 12 months old. After deciding to change the oil I noticed sand and all sorts of other stuff draining out with the oil. So with that I decided to strip it down and clean. Unfortunately it was all to late for the spindle bearings as they were shot.

Just because you have a new Chinese lathe, doesnt mean its in top condition!

Simon

[Grahame Collins]

I am please to see you have found the cause of your troubles.

A good mate, a mechanic ,from my younger days often used to say
" Always look for the simple things first" It is truly amazing how often he was right.

I admit to doing almost the same thing as you in having the gib strip loose on the cross slide.

Also I tried the cut with a bit of unknown steel and it was coarse and tore instead of cutting.

It was a good thread to remind people just like me to check on these sorts of things.To me information like this is priceless bit of trouble shooting and gets stored in my computer under a lathe file for quick reference when I next forget something basic.

Thanks to th62 and each and every one of you who have contributed.

Grahame

[Grahame Collins]

Just because you have a new Chinese lathe, doesn't mean its in top condition!
I'll agree with that and I'm thinking what Clive Palmer said.

Grahame

[th62]

No, it’s not an Ozmestore lathe, it’s an Optimum Maschinen. Looks very similar though, doesn’t it? It has a few differences in spec and is slightly larger. I do get a few bits and pieces from Ozmestore though – excellent service. Unfortunately, the lathes he advertises on ebay aren’t viewable – big turn off for me.

I've always stripped my lathes before use and done a little work here and there to tidy up and make things work as they should. This one I didn't bother so much as the finish, at first look at least, was so much better than on other machinery I've bought before. So much for that idea, I'll have to tear down the gearbox one day and have a look in there I suppose.

I ground negative helix and a very conservative end relief as a datum for the last thread I cut. I find with too much end relief, the point breaks of if not careful, PITA halfway through a thread! Unfortunately, that ‘abysmal’ thread was done on a part for a small drill sharpening jig I was working on at the time, so I’ll have to start that project again once I’ve sorted the threading.

[pipeclay]

As you have said earlier you have not had problems in the past with cutting threads,so why start to rethink about your processes now.

Your sharpening of the tool bit and work method must of been correct or close to it,or was it just luck.

[Techo1]

th62 you have mentioned grinding negative helix twice in this thread, what exactly do you mean by this? Can you post a clear picture of the tool looking "straight down the barrel" at the cutting end?

[Pete F]

th62 you have mentioned grinding negative helix twice in this thread, what exactly do you mean by this? Can you post a clear picture of the tool looking directly at the cutting end?

Agreed, this has completely lost me too. A thread tool is actually one of the easiest to grind, with the caveat that the angles need to be accurate angles. However there are only two sides to grind! There is no back rake, and the two ground faces are ground to provide sufficient side and front/end relief. If either of these is insufficient the tool will rub/not cut correctly. You don't grind "helix" in to a tool, in some cases it may need to be ground to allow for the helix of the thread, however as noted above, no special allowance need be made in this regard in standard V threads other than simply sufficient side relief.

[Techo1]

Ok, what do you think the end relief is there for?

It's for cutting clearance, 5 degrees would be plenty, this tool obviously has more than enough. :wink:

[th62]

All the reliefs are connected, when you grind the side reliefs that affects the front relief. If you grind the two side reliefs at a different angle you then have a positive helix angle - either left or right. For this tool bit, both side reliefs were ground at the same angle, so effectively there is no helix angle - what I call negative helix. Perhaps not accepted nomenclature, but on the positive side, I know exactly what I mean.

[Pete F]

It's for cutting clearance, 5 degrees would be plenty, this tool obviously has more than enough. :wink:

ALL reliefs are for "cutting clearance", and if they are not sufficient the tool will rub. The photo was obviously clearer to you than it was for me, hence why I asked if it was possible for another photo. It isn't normally an issue, but thought it would be worth checking. Likewise if it's above centre.


All the reliefs are connected, when you grind the side reliefs that affects the front relief. If you grind the two side reliefs at a different angle you then have a positive helix angle - either left or right. For this tool bit, both side reliefs were ground at the same angle, so effectively there is no helix angle - what I call negative helix. Perhaps not accepted nomenclature, but on the positive side, I know exactly what I mean.

While you may know what you mean, you're correct in saying that it's neither accepted nomenclature, nor, I'm afraid, accurate. If you plunge in, as you tried, the tool is a simple form tool, and the angles you've ground will form the flank angles of the thread. If on the other hand you were to feed in at precisely 30 degrees, you could (theoretically) have a single sided tool. However I'd suggest doing yourself a favour a it seems to me you're unnecessarily complicating things, so just grind the tool symmetrical at an included angle of 60 degrees, and feed at 28 degrees just as you've done.

[cba_melbourne]

All the reliefs are connected, when you grind the side reliefs that affects the front relief. If you grind the two side reliefs at a different angle you then have a positive helix angle - either left or right. For this tool bit, both side reliefs were ground at the same angle, so effectively there is no helix angle - what I call negative helix. Perhaps not accepted nomenclature, but on the positive side, I know exactly what I mean.

If I may suggest... I would now try to cut the same thread, with the same tool, in Plastic like PVC or Delrin. Then in Aluminum or Brass.
If you can cut the plastic well, then your tool is sharp. If Aluminium and Brass come out well, you know you can trust the angles of the tool are correctly ground.

Next try threading a leaded free-cutting mild steel. If that comes out good too, it would confirm that it is the particular steel you were using that does not lend itself too well for machining. If you have problems with the leaded steel, then you may have a problem with lathe rigidity. Maybe spindle preload too loose. Maybe a gib strip is bent or twisted, mimicking a properly adjusted slide where in reality it is loose.

Some more ideas to look out for: looking at your first pics, I see you use the standard 4-way toolpost. I have never seen your lathe make in flesh... but I have seen other Chinese lathe's 4-way toolposts. Often the toolpost surface where the toolbit rests is extremely roughly finished. One can almost imagine to see the toolbit rock on the rough surface. Something worth checking and if necessary correct. I have also seen 4-way toolposts wobble on the compound, because the mating surfaces are not flat, because the tightening bolt had been over-tightened and the top surface of the compound bulged upwards around the clamping bolt..... . I also know that the compound slide on some China lathes can be wobbly. If nothing else helps, you may try to clamp the threading tool directly onto the cross slide, using a massive plinth to suit center height. If now a plunge threading cut was to work well, you would know it is the compound that has to come apart and be improved.


EDIT: actually, looking at your previous pics, the surfaces that are turned do not look like a very good surface finish to me. This could be an indication of steel not suitable for machining. Many steels that are optimized for welding, are actually very poor to machine.

[th62]

Well, now it starts, I should have known it would - sooner or later.

Pipeclay, re thinking your processes is a necessary evil when things go wrong, I would have thought that obvious. As it turned out my sharpens were correct, or at least reasonable. If that was meant to be an insult - you succeeded, happy?

Pete F, not exactly sure what your problem is, Techo1 asked me to explain what I meant by negative helix - so I did, as best as I could in my language. I'm extremely sorry if my explanation and nomenclature doesn't meet with your approval.

I'll stand by my statement: side,front and helix angles are all interconnected - you cannot change one without affecting the others.

Why you suddenly went off on a tangent about plunge cutting is best known to you; however, in all my explanations, I said I used the compound (except for the final very fine clean up cuts), which when set at 28 degrees is hardly a plunge is it?

Why you two decided to ramp it up, I have no idea, but as I said, I should have realised it would eventually.

To the remainder who offered assistance, without insult, thank you...

[Pete F]

You've GOT to be kidding me mate. My "problem" it seems is I just wasted a bunch of my time trying to help you out. You clearly know better so you're on your own buddy!!!

For the record THIS is what you said :((

The 58 degrees I mentioned was a typo, the compound is set at 28 degrees. With the compound at that angle, if you rest the cutting edge of the tool against the side of the compound slide, the tool sits parallel with the top slide (one or two degrees off). But I'll try moving the compound to 28 today and also try plunging.

[kwijibo99]

With regards to grinding positive rake on threading tools, I know it's a no no as it changes the effective angle of the tool.
However, I find that when threading gummy stock like black iron or stainless, a bit of negative rake results in a much cleaner cut.
I usually use the top-slide set over method when threading and have tools ground with a bit of positive back and side rake for use with gummy stock.
For run of the mill threads I have found the benefit of a smoother finish outweighs the variance in profile angle which is virtually negligible.
If you are particularly worried about the final angle you could grind your tool a bit wider (61º or 56º) before grinding the rake but I grind my tools freehand and have no illusions that I can hold to such accuracy.
Cheers,
Greg.

[Techo1]

I just spent a few minutes trying to photograph a correctly ground tool for right hand V threads but the compact digital camera cannot capture the detail required so I will try again tomorrow. I will also try to show why allowance for the lead angle of the thread is very important except maybe for finer threads of larger diameter. The thread th62 is cutting has a lead angle of slightly less than 2 degrees at the O/D and over 2 degrees at the minor diameter, add another 3 degrees for clearance and tool should have about 5 degrees side clearance angle on the leading edge, the trailing edge requires virtually no side clearance thanks to the helix angle of the thread.

[th62]

You seem to have a very selective memory Pete F, I did write that, but then I wrote this - what I actually did.:

"Ground another bit (no honing and no helix), clamped in holder with a 12mm overhang and (with fingers crossed) cut a thread using coolant and the compound, finishing of with a couple of very fine plunge cuts to smooth the trailing edge of thread. Huge improvement, the thread isn’t cut to correct size or cleaned up after - just a roughy to test straight off the tool. Still not as good as I’d like, but approaching useable. Presumably attention to tool sharpening should improve. I may send off for a diamond or Arkansas stone next and try that."

Selective memory isn't all it's made out to be!

Negative: characterized by the absence of distinguishing or marked qualities or features; lacking positive attributes (opposed to positive (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/positive) ):

Less than zero and opposite in sign to a positive number that when added to the given number yields zero

So I guess negative would be - zero nothing naught zip!
I don't think it can be explained any better than that.

[Techo1]

Without a better picture of your cutting tool th62 it's hard to say that what you refer to as helix is actually clearance on the leading edge of the tool to allow for the helix angle. The first picture here shows a tool ground with about 6 degrees of clearance for lead angles up to around 3 degrees, a keen eye should be able to see the difference between this and the other end of the tool shown in the second picture which has virtually no clearance although the tool looks OK to the untrained eye.

324213

324214

This last one shows where the tool with virtually no side clearance has rubbed on the leading edge resulting in built up material welded on to it. This tool cannot possibly cut a nice clean thread.

324216

[KBs PensNmore]

No, it’s not an Ozmestore lathe, it’s an Optimum Maschinen. Looks very similar though, doesn’t it? It has a few differences in spec and is slightly larger. I do get a few bits and pieces from Ozmestore though – excellent service. Unfortunately, the lathes he advertises on ebay aren’t viewable – big turn off for me.



Geez your lucky, every time I want a part they have to take it from a machine, I bought a motor for my lathe back in January 11/14 it sat here for a couple of weeks till I got time to put it in. First week of Feb I got to use it, about 2 hours in it stopped operating. The motor was going but the end of the shaft wasn't, it had sheared off between the bearing and the fan. Sent it down to them "YEP it's a warranty job, had a couple of them lately, be 6 weeks before we can get a replacement" All sorts of excuses, boss forgot to order it, maybe in the next container, should be in the next one. STILL FLAMING WAITING. Getting really p*&#ed
Had to order a circuit board for the mill (same place) paid for it last Wed. still not seen it:((
Unfortunately no one else in AU has spares for them and I would NEVER have a piece of machinery from them again.
Kryn

[th62]

I've only ever bought small items from ozmestore, and always received them within 2-3 days, mind you I've never had warranty or return issues. I had heard communication with them was all but an impossibility, didn't realize they were that bad - one for the memory bank. Which lathe did you buy?

When I was deciding on which lathe to buy, I went to the ozmestore warehouse (not easy to find - no signs, numbers or anyone in the office ) to see If I could eyeball one - no go, so I bought elsewhere.

Sorry Techo1, I've been busy with unrelated things. Hope to get at it today (if the Olympus will play), can't get it to focus on macro unless the item is lit up with a torch, but then the item is too bright to see any detail.

[th62]

A couple of quick shots of threading bits I’ve used most recently. The first is of an identical grind for leading and trailing relief.. The other three are of another bit I ground a few days ago. As you can see the leading relief is a little more acute than the trailing relief. Sorry for the quality, in macro mode, this camera will not focus unless the item is lit up like a Xmas tree.

[morrisman]

A couple of quick shots of threading bits I’ve used most recently. The first is of an identical grind for leading and trailing relief.. The other three are of another bit I ground a few days ago. As you can see the leading relief is a little more acute than the trailing relief. Sorry for the quality, in macro mode, this camera will not focus unless the item is lit up like a Xmas tree.

Hi

I'm no authority but I'd say you have way too much end relief angle , seen in the last 2 pics . You only need around 10 degrees max. Yours has about 45 degrees or more . The acute angle you have will weaken the cutting edges .. Mike

[th62]

Yes, that's why I haven't used it, nothing more annoying than breaking the tip off half way through cutting a thread. You'll also notice the tip hasn't been flattened or rounded - another recipe for disaster.

[KBs PensNmore]

I've only ever bought small items from ozmestore, and always received them within 2-3 days, mind you I've never had warranty or return issues. I had heard communication with them was all but an impossibility, didn't realize they were that bad - one for the memory bank. Which lathe did you buy?

When I was deciding on which lathe to buy, I went to the ozmestore warehouse (not easy to find - no signs, numbers or anyone in the office ) to see If I could eyeball one - no go, so I bought elsewhere.

I had the lathe a 7 X 12 and an X2 mini mill given to me by my brother and I thought he wasn't smart:D, maybe I'm the one that's not so bright:rolleyes:.
I've had to replace the belts and motor drive cog 5 times, from Little Machine Shop in the US. The mill has had gears replaced twice, finally with metal gears again from the US. It was cheaper and QUICKER to get them from the states.
The circuit board finally arrived Thursday morning:2tsup:. Regarding communication from them, you are correct, they don't/won't contact you or return calls, DAMHIKT.:(( They rely on fleabay sales, not walk in sales. Maybe they should be on a site "YOUR WORST SUPPLIER", I'm not afraid to rubbish them, as it might be the only way, they smarten up.:no:
Where did you buy your lathe from please?
Regards
Kryn

[th62]

I bought mine from Machinery Disposals (Impala machinery) on Cavan Road, not far from Paramount Brown, It's branded Impala, but the user's book says it's Optimum Maschinen.

It's 280mm x 700 mm and has a mounting pad on the back of the bed - presumably for a mill.

The finish was superior to any C#!ne$e lathe I've ever seen. Aside from the bed, there is no filler, just a very thin coat of paint. it was dearer, but I was happy to pay the extra. Time will tell if it was a wise choice!

Aside from the V belt fraying, I haven't had any problems to date so don't know about spares, etc. The fellow said he can get parts in if I need them. There seem to be a number of clones, as is the norm for C#!ne$e machinery, some with identical specs.

But really as I now know the manufacturer, it's probably easier to just go through Optimum's factory.

Both Optimum Maschinen and Machinery Disposals have web sites.

[simonl]

I have a Chinese 12x36 lathe. It was my Dads and he got it through Ozmestore. It wouldn't be my first choice of where to buy a lathe but it has been pretty good so far. I also have a Chinese mill and now I can see that the lathe is far superior to the mill in terms of finish and quality, BUT they are still Chinese! I have since acquired a German bandsaw, a Hercus T&C grinder and a Macson shaper and I can certainly see the difference in quality. Even the best Chinese machine is no match for any of those brands or others made outside of China. My Chinese lathe also has very little "bog" other than under the bed, I totally striped it back to bare metal so I know, but it's still Chinese, it still had heaps of crap in the headstock and the apron. While I would love to acquire a S/H lathe from a more "respected" origin, I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place because this lathe has sentimental value to me and it's not a bad lathe so I have no real need to replace it, other than my appreciation of finer machines.

The only real way I can see to justify it's replacement would be if I can honestly say that my turning skills are at a level where the lathe is limiting my achievements. That's just not the case, not for now or anytime soon I think.

Simon

[bwal74]

Hi,

I had started a thread a couple of weeks ago regarding threading. I was producing some nice threads right up until I needed to make the part I wanted then bang, there goes my head again (against the proverbial wall). Couldn't cut a decent thread at all. Turns out the both gibs were loose, the insert I was using had a chip etc etc. Haven't touched it since. Will hopefully try again this week.

Regarding lathes there was a nice looking AL960B on Gumtree for $1000 on Tuesday or Wednesday morning. By the time I got to work to have another look at it, it was gone.

Ben.

[KBs PensNmore]

Hi,
Regarding lathes there was a nice looking AL960B on Gumtree for $1000 on Tuesday or Wednesday morning. By the time I got to work to have another look at it, it was gone.

Ben.
When it comes to anything that you're looking for, Ya gotta be quick. Just look in the market place something gets listed, 10 mins later it's GONE:(
Kryn

[th62]

An AL- 960 for $1000, I'm surprised it lasted 10 minutes - what a bargain!

[bwal74]

An AL- 960 for $1000, I'm surprised it lasted 10 minutes - what a bargain!

Yeah, it didn't last long. Less than an hour. I should of rang the bloke and and snapped it up but wasn't sure how the missus would take it. Plus I've got too much on my plate as it is - Lotze hacksaw, another small cannon model to finish, threads . . . . .

Ben.

[KBs PensNmore]

Yeah, it didn't last long. Less than an hour. I should of rang the bloke and and snapped it up but wasn't sure how the missus would take it. Plus I've got too much on my plate as it is - Lotze hacksaw, another small cannon model to finish, threads . . . . .

Ben.

Tell the missus it's part of your self managed super fund, it will be of great value in the future just like super is NOW. Plus it will give you something to do later...................:D.
Kryn