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Evanism
10th September 2014, 05:01 PM
Gday all, a touch of wisdom needed.

My turning progresses. Maybe not better, but progressing.

I love the two skews I have, a Robert Sorby 19mm and and old 1 1/4" Luna (sweeden). Awesome to turn with, very fast and results are great.

After getting a huge roughing gouge at the CWWWS, I'm contemplating getting a big oval skew: e.g. https://carrolls.sitesuite.net.au/shop/item/robert-sorby-1-14-oval-skew

Before I go dropping $100 on such a beastie, are they "worth it"?

Jim Carroll
10th September 2014, 05:44 PM
They are different to use compared to a flat skew.

With the rocking bevel some dont like that feel

If you want a large skew cant go past the P&N 1-1/4"

Unhandled (http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/skew-chisel-30x8mm-unhandled)

Handled (http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/skew-chisel-30x8mm-handled)

pommyphil
10th September 2014, 05:57 PM
I bought an oval years ago, thinking it would be easier to use, it wasn't. It is now unused . Harder to sharpen, not as useful as a scraper. I'd go with the 30mm flat. Phil

chuck1
10th September 2014, 06:19 PM
I personally don't like them! I prefer rectangular or square skews. The one I have oval seems to chatter!

Luke Maddux
10th September 2014, 06:26 PM
I like my large oval. It's big but not as big as the one you want. I think it's a 1". I find it very easy to rotate into a cut to control the depth. Makes it easier to ride the bevel, which reduces the likelihood of a catch (which is a big deal for me). I do understand the beef others have with them though. I find the smaller one difficult to handle. It tends to over-rotate and cut too deep.

Just my AU$0.02 (which, in the absence of any AU$0.01 currency, rounds to AU$0.00...).

artme
10th September 2014, 07:05 PM
I have a small oval skew That I use only occasionally and then only on things like pens. To me they are a bit of a gimmick.

While I admire P&N tools my one concern with the skews is the lack of rounded corners. Rounded corners make it easier to roll beads.

Christos
10th September 2014, 07:33 PM
I do not have an oval skew so not comment in that respect.

I do have the P&N skew and it does have a rounded base when resting on the tool rest.

I also have a small skew about 12mm that I have for fine cuts. It is just carbon steel so not very good to use as your main tool.

Jim Carroll
10th September 2014, 07:55 PM
I have a small oval skew That I use only occasionally and then only on things like pens. To me they are a bit of a gimmick.

While I admire P&N tools my one concern with the skews is the lack of rounded corners. Rounded corners make it easier to roll beads.


The P&N does have a rolled edge on the short point side which allows you to roll beads easily.

On the long point side there is square edges so you can make dedicated v cuts easily, there is others that have rolled edges on both sides but I find them uncomfortable when doing V cuts as they have a tendancy to roll slightly.

jefferson
10th September 2014, 08:09 PM
I bought an oval years ago, thinking it would be easier to use, it wasn't. It is now unused . Harder to sharpen, not as useful as a scraper. I'd go with the 30mm flat. Phil


Harder to sharpen? I'd like to see the jig that manages that one! Agree about the P & N's, though the Hamlets are OK too.

jefferson
10th September 2014, 08:13 PM
OOPS!

The oval skews are the easiest to sharpen (in the Tormek and True Grind jigs). But not the round ones. Can't see a use for those.

The rounded edges on some brands make rolling beads / vee cuts easier, for both the turner and the tool rest.

smiife
10th September 2014, 08:22 PM
Gday all, a touch of wisdom needed.

My turning progresses. Maybe not better, but progressing.

I love the two skews I have, a Robert Sorby 19mm and and old 1 1/4" Luna (sweeden). Awesome to turn with, very fast and results are great.

After getting a huge roughing gouge at the CWWWS, I'm contemplating getting a big oval skew: e.g. https://carrolls.sitesuite.net.au/shop/item/robert-sorby-1-14-oval-skew

Before I go dropping $100 on such a beastie, are they "worth it"?

Hi evanism,
I have got the 1 1/4" p&n skew and have found it
very easy to use, one side is rounded and other side flat
get the unhandled one and custom make your own
handle to suit you , hope this helps

Mobyturns
10th September 2014, 09:26 PM
The P&N does have a rolled edge on the short point side which allows you to roll beads easily.

On the long point side there is square edges so you can make dedicated v cuts easily, there is others that have rolled edges on both sides but I find them uncomfortable when doing V cuts as they have a tendancy to roll slightly.

Evanism,

Jim has been around this wood turning game quite a while so he has sound advice & well worth listening too but like a lot of tools we become accustomed to what we have and often revert back to what we are comfortable with or were taught to use.

Time to take stock of what you propose to use an 1 1/4" skew for before you purchase one. That should then dictate the skew profile required. Wanting an 1 1/4" skew suggests larger projects which often means the tool rest can be a fair way out from the surface being cut with the skew especially if there are pommels etc.

Rigidity & heft of the skew blade becomes a highly desirable trait and to me rules out oval skews immediately on larger work. But if you are dealing with round stock only then they may suit your requirement.

Ease of use across the tool rest - Radiused or preferably Rolled Edge skews offer a wider foot print, roll nicely for beads etc, and IMO are easier to control and do less damage to the tool rest than square corners or the narrow edge of an oval skew when cutting detail (vee cuts etc).

Longevity of the cutting edge - dictates the profile & geometry of the bevels, and tool steel. My preference is for shorter bevel lengths and approximately a 70 degree "point" on a pretty traditional grind. Personally I don't go for the curved skew grind.

I use a skew a lot, in fact I much prefer spindle work over bowl turning. I have put in the hours to teach myself how to use them and sharpen them properly, at least I think so but I am always willing to learn more though. I also use the long point frequently to cut what are essentially "beads" on my laminated spinning tops so love the RE both sides.

My preference design wise is for the profile of the Hamlet Rolled Edge Skew Chisel (HCT107) - for the RE on both Long & Short Point sides; then the P&N or similar with the RE on Short Point side. I use Hamlet RE Skews & I have been using Thompson V10's which come with RE on short point only but have been modified to have RE both sides. The Thompson's also have a little thicker tool steel which is a bonus to me. P&N are nice to use with the thicker tool steel, but of all the ovals I have used none tickle my fancy.

This clip by Richard Raffan is well worth a look for any one using a skew http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodturning/video/understanding-woodturning-catches.aspx

Also Alan Lacer has some good info http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/sharpen1.htm

John Doyle
10th September 2014, 10:41 PM
Oval skews are definitely easier to sharpen using tormek jig and certainty easy to use. My opinion for what it is worth. JD

artme
11th September 2014, 08:42 AM
Good post Moby!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

I learnt to use a skew by reading - several times - the work of Mike Darlow. I practiced on radiata until I was game enough to proceed to better timbers.

I don't use the skew much so when I have a lay off from it I go back to doing a bit of practice.

stuffy
11th September 2014, 11:28 AM
As you already have an 1 1/4" I'd recommend a 1" skew like the P&N with a bit of thickness to it.

I find 1" the most versatile size, heavy enough for peeling cuts, wide enough for most smoothing/planing cuts and not too bulky for rolling beads.

I'm not a fan of oval skews, not enough meat in them and no tool rest support for the short point when rolling beads.

I like a slight curve to the cutting edge on 1" and bigger skews, not enough to lose the angle of the short or long points, just enough that not too much of the edge cuts at once.



Steve
:)

Mobyturns
11th September 2014, 11:57 AM
I like a slight curve to the cutting edge on 1" and bigger skews, not enough to lose the angle of the short or long points, just enough that not too much of the edge cuts at once.



Steve
:)

Like Raffan's skew in the clip above?

stuffy
11th September 2014, 05:09 PM
Yes, but with a bit more skew angle.

Other videos I've seen of Raffan his skew has been ground with a curve that makes the angle at the short point quite obtuse.

Alan Lacer grinds a curve that makes the long point almost square.

I like both the long and short points to be well defined with just a slight curve between them.

Every turner should have at least two skews,

1) a smoothing chisel - wide and thick with a longish handle, 65-70 degree skew angle slightly curved makes it ideal for planing cuts.

2) a detail chisel - 19mm or so wide, with a shorter handle, 75-80 degree skew angle gives a strong short point for rolling beads and cutting fillets etc.

Steve.
:)

Mobyturns
11th September 2014, 08:27 PM
I like both the long and short points to be well defined with just a slight curve between them.

...

2) a detail chisel - 19mm or so wide, with a shorter handle, 75-80 degree skew angle gives a strong short point for rolling beads and cutting fillets etc.

Steve.
:)

I agree with your comments, particularly the above, even though I personally don't use the curved skew.

texx
13th September 2014, 03:07 PM
my flat skews lay in the corner sulking now all i use is my oval skews and have done for quite a few years , not sorby but oval skews all the same .

johno

NeilS
14th September 2014, 07:46 PM
They are different to use compared to a flat skew.

With the rocking bevel some dont like that feel

If you want a large skew cant go past the P&N 1-1/4"

Unhandled (http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/skew-chisel-30x8mm-unhandled)

Handled (http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/skew-chisel-30x8mm-handled)

+1

I turned my ovals skews into negative rake scrapers. I love them for that use, they allow for an infinite number of sheer scrape angles. I use nothing else for scraping, unless I'm working inside a hollow form.

smiife
14th September 2014, 07:53 PM
QUOTE=NeilS;1806030]+1

I turned my ovals skews into negative rake scrapers. I love them for that use, they allow for an infinite number of sheer scrape angles. I use nothing else for scraping, unless I'm working inside a hollow form.[/QUOTE]

Hi neal,
I have a diamond shape skew I never use would
It be possible to grind it in to a negitive rake scraper ?
and would you have a photo of yours?

NeilS
14th September 2014, 09:08 PM
QUOTE=NeilS;1806030]+1

I turned my ovals skews into negative rake scrapers. I love them for that use, they allow for an infinite number of sheer scrape angles. I use nothing else for scraping, unless I'm working inside a hollow form.

Hi neal,
I have a diamond shape skew I never use would
It be possible to grind it in to a negitive rake scraper ?
and would you have a photo of yours?[/QUOTE]

Smiife, I'm not familiar with diamond shape skews, so can't comment on their suitability.

I will photograph my oval scrapers the next time I'm around at my workshop.

They are just ground like a radius skew chisel (http://www.woodturnersresource.com/extras/lathe_terms/radiusskewchisel.jpg). This is a more acute included angle than standard scrapers. The oval cross-section allows the tool to be rotated on the tool rest to make a sheer scrape at your preferred angle. I only use scrapers to take a very fine final cut and the acute edge works well for that.

Paul39
21st September 2014, 11:52 AM
As we all have grinders and sandpaper, we can put whatever rounding that suits our personal taste on any tool.

I ease the square edges on the sides of all my scrapers and skews to make it easier on my hands and tool rest.

chuck1
21st September 2014, 12:43 PM
Here is a shot of my skew chisels smallest being 6mm by 6 mm for lace bobbins and the biggest 38 by 10mm for compound curves. I have a few double up sizes as some don't leave home and a work set.
They all get a workout the half by half inch is my favourite for turning posts.
There is 11 in total for me to choose from!

Mobyturns
21st September 2014, 01:47 PM
Here is a shot of my skew chisels smallest being 6mm by 6 mm for lace bobbins and the biggest 38 by 10mm for compound curves. I have a few double up sizes as some don't leave home and a work set.
They all get a workout the half by half inch is my favourite for turning posts.
There is 11 in total for me to choose from!

Chuck1, Nice to see good solid handles, plenty of timber around the tang & a nice solid ferrule.

Pity a few well known tool makers do not follow that lead. :((

chuck1
21st September 2014, 09:02 PM
I like the the big furrules. It does make you wonder why manufacturers of tools do put small ferrules on the handles!
I noticed the Allen keys that come with chucks are getting shorter over the years! Must bet cost cutting!

jefferson
22nd September 2014, 08:57 AM
+1

I turned my ovals skews into negative rake scrapers. I love them for that use, they allow for an infinite number of sheer scrape angles. I use nothing else for scraping, unless I'm working inside a hollow form.

Neil, what do you use on the inside of lidded boxes? The oval skews as scrapers for the final tool finish? Just interested.

NeilS
22nd September 2014, 11:09 AM
Neil, what do you use on the inside of lidded boxes? The oval skews as scrapers for the final tool finish? Just interested.

Jeff, as with hollow forms, I use small scraper tips on goose neck shafts (most with a rotating head) to sheer scrape the internal walls and undercuts surfaces of boxes. This allows a sheer scrape at the desired angle. As you will know, any undercuts on crossgrain blanks are best scraped from the equator towards the pole (mouth) and on endgrain from the pole towards the equator.

I have rounded the end of one of my ovals for scraping the internal bottoms of shallow forms.

As I don't have 'corners' inside any of my deeper or closed forms I'm not sure how you would deal with those areas.

Thanks for the question, Jeff. You are right that I needed to explain myself better.

Old Croc
22nd September 2014, 09:25 PM
Interesting thread Evanism. When I first started turning I was advised to buy oval skews and had all sorts of issues. I was digging stumps out of the forest and I visited the legendary Tiny Hayes and he threw me and the oval skews out of his workshop. :o I visited Powder Post and he gave me a few tips with flat skews and it seemed OK. :2tsup: Went back home to the ovals and all crap again, so basically gave up spindle work for 15 years. Was at the Prossie Turnout and asked Retired for a few tips and within 10 minutes I was back in action with his flat skews turning quite well. :2tsup::2tsup: He suggested it might be the ovals. I bought a 1 1/4 inch flat P & N radiused the edges and bingo, back cutting good spindles again.
So from what different posters have said, they do suit some turners, but for me they are in the scrap metal bin. I may put them up on the market place to get rid of them.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Mobyturns
22nd September 2014, 09:45 PM
I may put them up on the market place to get rid of them.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Sorry Crocy we may have knocked the resale value about a bit with this thread. :(

John Doyle
23rd September 2014, 10:13 PM
Who would have thought that a post about an oval skew would attract so much attention. It just goes to show that we all need these forums to see that we are not alone with our problems. I learned to use an oval skew right from the start and it has never bothered me to use it or to sharpen it , right now my original oval is too short to sharpen and it gets used as a scraper. I guess I willing have to dispose of it soon as it has been replaced now with normal rectangle skews. From my point of view oval or flat makes no difference which one i use. Cheers for now on oval skews JD