PVC Steambox

[thumbsucker]

I am setting out to build a steam box, while I have wide range of construction material choices Class 18 PVC pipe is the path I wish to go down, based on my readings from http://www.bayareawoodworkers.org/steambox/steambox.html, Mike Dunbar of The WindsorInstitute & Russ Filbeck. It does not leak like a ply box, neither does it sock up water, is more durable then ply and does not dissipate heat like steel. I asked Reece Plumping how much a 100 mm diameter Class 18 pipe would they quoted me $401 for 6 meters. This is far more then I need, as 2 meters would be ample.

Does anyone know were I can get only 2 meters worth of class 18 PVC pipe? I will contact Bunnings and masters, they might be able to get it for me in shorter lengths. They stock up to 50 mm diameter in class 18.

[Old-Biker-UK]

Find where they are building some new houses - builder will probably donate an off-cut for the price of a few cans of the amber liquid.
That's how I got mine

Mark

[BobL]

I am setting out to build a steam box, while I have wide range of construction material choices Class 18 PVC pipe is the path I wish to go down, based on my readings from http://www.bayareawoodworkers.org/steambox/steambox.html, Mike Dunbar of The WindsorInstitute & Russ Filbeck. It does not leak like a ply box, neither does it sock up water, is more durable then ply and does not dissipate heat like steel. I asked Reece Plumping how much a 100 mm diameter Class 18 pipe would they quoted me $401 for 6 meters. This is far more then I need, as 2 meters would be ample.

$400


:oo:

Crikey - look on this (http://www.pipeonline.com.au/listProduct/PVC+PIPE/PRESSURE+PIPE//0) page, nearly 1/4 of the REECE price

[JDarvall]

Plastic PVC is definitely better than wood. I found it too difficult to purchase it the regular way. I had to scrounge. I ended up finding a heavy grade storm pipe. Its walls are near 10mm thick. Black with white stripes. Somebody might know its official name, but its perfect. I got it from left over council earth works for near free, that ended up at the tip shop. I have some left your welcome to, but your melbourne…..maybe if you hunt around council road works etc. Some nice bloke in charge may want it out of his hair.

I'd modify the original design though to drip in hot water from a second source, like an urn. A rig like that can actually get too hot sometimes acting like a kiln, not a steamer……ie. can dry the wood out, with wood breaking in sudden failures.

[thumbsucker]

Yes - $400 is rather rich. Thanks for the link it does indicate that it can be gotten cheaper. Just have to find a local company.

apricotripper I will look into storm pipe.

I am looking around for a local company.

[thumbsucker]

I scored just over two meters of 155mm diameter pvc-m light blue pressure pipe with an x-wall of 10.5mm from a renovation happening near me, needed some cleaning up but it was in modest condition. I have cut the pipe into two 1 meter lengths. Ready for a t-section.

[thumbsucker]

Hi - I have a question about the location of the rack of cross bars the wood sits on.

In a moment of absent mindedness I drilled 1/4" holes in the middle of my 155 mm diameter PVC pipe. This has given me enough space to steam a theoretical piece up to 55 high and 105 wide mm or two 50 x 50 mm pieces, with space around them.

In hindsight I would should have located the holes just blow centre to maximise space, above.

Now steam rises and it should be hotter in the top half of the pipe, or that is how I am justifying it to myself.

However I now have a bottom half that is not used.

Could I place a second lower rack of cross bars / rack say about 20 mm above the bottom of my pipe? Or maybe should I leave the space empty then I could slide a sled into the space.

[Enfield Guy]

I suppose one way of finding out is to install a couple of probes, meat thermometers, into one hole you drill as a tester. Fire the thing up, load it up and see what the temp is doing at two or three points. If the variance seems to large then an extra hole or two would be no drama to plug.

My 2c worth.

Also, why a T section?

Cheers
Bevan

[thumbsucker]

the thermometer is a good idea. I just hate plugging holes. They will haunt my nightmares.

I am following Mike Dunbar style steam box plans. Two one meter sections are joined using a T-section. Then a reducer is fitted to the T-section and then a radiator hose to the reducer. More complex then just shoving the radiator hose directly into the main PVC pipe. However its a more secure solution with the reducer and the T-section added.