Drill Sharpening Jig [Archive]

BaronJ

19th October 2014, 10:46 PM

Hi Guys,

Some time ago, TH62 started a thread on drill grinding jigs. http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=187182
I must admit I became very interested and did a concept drawing of my ideas based on TH62's work. Having spent some time mulling it over and not doing much about it, I've bit the bullet and acquired some 3 mm steel plate and a bit of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle iron.

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I've cut out the side plates and base plate based on the drawing that I did. I clamped the two sides together marked out and drilled the locating dowel holes through the plates. Using a couple of lumps of 1/2" thick brass blocks machined the same width as the base plate, a couple of lengths of rod to go through the dowel holes, I clamped it all together using dots of super glue to secure everything.

The lengths of rod and the brass blocks enabled me to ensure that the assembly was accurately lined up and square. I then stitch welded the bottom plate to the side plates and the small top plate. I cut the angle iron to the correct length and by drilling a 6 mm hole 10 mm away from each end was able to clamp and stitch weld the angle iron to the bottom plate. I used the brass blocks to ensure that the angle iron was square and shims to make sure that it was centered in the assembly.

I used a broken 1/8" shank carbide drill bit as a scribe to test that I had got the V of the angle iron placed exactly in the center height of the jig. I've still got some work to do making the mechanism for clamping and setting the drill length.

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The third picture shows the two round stitches holding the angle iron in the bottom of the jig.
Note that the jig is intended to be used layed on its side as in the first picture.

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The pictures show how far I've got at the moment, I'll post more as I progress.

steran50

21st October 2014, 09:02 PM

HI BaronJ,
Interesting project. I like the way you have boxed in the Angle iron for the drill bed it will stop the angle from twisting. A drill sharpener is something that I have also been thinking of for a while. I looked at a lot of different one's and a toss up between the KEF http://www.drill-bit-sharpener.com.au/drill-bit-sharpener-professional-kef6ne.html and the Sterling Drill Grinder http://sterlingdrillgrinder.com/ . I've decided to go with the Sterling style only because I like the idea of changing the point angle. It's a project for the future though as I want to build a 35 ton Hydraulic press soon. Thanks for posting your pictures of your project.

Simplicity

21st October 2014, 09:08 PM

I just might sit down and watch this one I don't hang out here much
So I will just stand in the back and watch and learn

BaronJ

22nd October 2014, 01:18 AM

Oldneweng

22nd October 2014, 07:47 PM

Hi Stewart,

I've had a look at the two web sites that you referred to. Apart from the machines being complete with motors and grinding wheels, neither seem to have any real advantage over a cheap "Picador" style jig used on your own grinder. See these links:

328767

http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.com/Drill_grinding_jig_1.html

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3788.0

The concepts behind my design are to enable accurate grind angles to be set and fixed and also enable the drill bit to be rotated 180 degrees along its axis without any alterations to its settings, thus guaranteeing that both cutting edges have the same lengths and angles. A very simple adjustment will allow four facet grinds to be achieved.

I've tried to keep things simple by using a fabricated construction requiring no more than a saw, file, and drill press. Whilst access to welding facilities would be advantageous, silver soldering would work just as well for all the joints.

Having said all this I'm open to any suggestions that will improve the design or make construction more simple.

I have almost had my fill of this subject!:D Just joking. You may remember pointing out this information quite some time ago. I could not see pictures on one forum so I believe you pointed to another one which had the pictures available to me. I was using this info later on in another thread here when I found that all of Graham Meek's posts had suddenly disappeared. It was a funny thread without those in it I can tell you. I had copied all the pictures, but all I had were laser printouts. I might grab them now while I can. It is always better to get as close to original graphics as possible.

I am still working on changing my ""Picador" style jig" as per Grahams suggestions. I have mounted an aluminium wedge to compensate for the angle which in the case of my jig is out by 2 deg in the opposite direction to all the rest.

Issues with my mill (as Doubleboost says "Trouble at Mill") have got in the way.

Dean

Edit. There seems to be something funny about the first link posted. I keep seeing words like
Fig 3 The Picador jig is clearly marked, Photo

courtesy of Baron.

Not quite what it was as I remember it.:D Initially I just looked at the first picture. I see thers are some more improvements.

Edit 2. I had trouble registering with MEM. I am still waiting on the confirmation email actually. I just tried logging on, and guess what? Now I can see the pictures there as well.

BaronJ

23rd October 2014, 03:48 AM

Hi Dean,
If you or anybody else want copies of the original pictures just ask. :):):)

BaronJ

24th October 2014, 08:07 AM

Hi Guys,

I've done a little more on the drill sharpening jig.

Having played about with various methods of securely clamping the drill whilst sharpening it and considering the range of sizes that I want to be able to handle along with the differing requirements that each method demanded I believe that I've come up with the most effective method.

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Before I get on to that, I realised that I had not posted the picture of the brass blocks that I used to set the sides and to align the length of V channel whilst stitch welding the parts together.

One of the requirements was to securely hold any drill from about 2.5 mm to 15 mm accurately in the bottom of the V channel without it being pushed to one side. This was an issue that I found with the Picador drill jig. The clamp didn't always hold the drill into the bottom of the V. The flex in the clamp allowed the drill to be rolled up one side of the V making it very difficult to repeat the setting.

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Since I had a short length of a rubber platen roller from an old inkjet printer I decided to use a 30 mm length as the clamp to hold the drill in place. The roller rubber being quite flexible meant that any size drill that would fit in the jig would be securely pressed into the bottom of the V without any tendency to roll either way.

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Because I had already decided to use a single screw to apply pressure to the clamp I realised that I needed to make a plate to distribute that pressure evenly along the length of rubber. I cut a 30 mm long length of 13 mm wide by 1 mm thick aluminium strip and drilled three holes in it 2 mm in diameter. I then put a fold along its length to both locate the strip and to give it strength.

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The holes were put in to locate the aluminium strip by using pins made from some copper wire pushed into holes drilled in the rubber roller.

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The copper pins locate into the steel core about a millimeter. The small centre hole will be drilled out to 3 mm diameter and will go halfway into the steel core. The idea is so that the screw that applies pressure to the roller locates it and prevents any sideways movement.

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The clamp screw in this picture is 2BA and is far to small a diameter and has far too much slop in the thread to stop it wandering off to one side. It does however show the way it is intended to function.

The next job is to make a stop so that the position of the drill being sharpened can be controlled. I'll post more as I progress.

steran50

26th October 2014, 07:51 PM

Hi Stewart,

I've had a look at the two web sites that you referred to. Apart from the machines being complete with motors and grinding wheels, neither seem to have any real advantage over a cheap "Picador" style jig used on your own grinder. See these links:

328767

http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.com/Drill_grinding_jig_1.html

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3788.0

The concepts behind my design are to enable accurate grind angles to be set and fixed and also enable the drill bit to be rotated 180 degrees along its axis without any alterations to its settings, thus guaranteeing that both cutting edges have the same lengths and angles. A very simple adjustment will allow four facet grinds to be achieved.

I've tried to keep things simple by using a fabricated construction requiring no more than a saw, file, and drill press. Whilst access to welding facilities would be advantageous, silver soldering would work just as well for all the joints.

Having said all this I'm open to any suggestions that will improve the design or make construction more simple.

Hi BaronJ
The reason I've opted to go with the Drill grinders that I've looked at is, because of the capacity. I need to be able to sharpen up to 32mm (1-1/4") diameter drill bits both in reduced shank and Morse taper. The Tool & Cutter Grinder that I have which is a Herless BM-450A actually has a Picador style Drill sharpening attachment in its Manual. I haven't got around to trying a Picador style attachment as yet, but I do hope too soon. Thanks for for Links too. I see Graham has actually increased the Capacity of his sharpener set up so that it can do 25mm.
I'm certainly interested in your Project and will be following it with interest.

BaronJ

27th October 2014, 04:28 AM

Hi Stewart,

Thanks for for Links too. I see Graham has actually increased the Capacity of his sharpener set up so that it can do 25mm.

I've not got a drill that big but you should be able to fit a 35 mm (1 3/8") diameter drill into my jig but I suspect that it will need to be lengthened somewhat.

Thankyou for your interest and kind words :).

BaronJ

27th October 2014, 05:14 AM

Hi Guys,

I've gotten a little further on with making the adjustment mechanism for the drill jig.

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In this picture I'm showing the drill clamping mechanism clamping the end of the length adjusting screw. I used the clamp to secure the piece of 8 mm threaded rod whilst located and drilled the plastic block used as the nut at the other end. The plastic is an off cut of Nylon 66 from a larger sheet. Its 3/4" inch thick and was squared up by milling the sides.

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Once I had it square I then used a file to remove one corner where it sits in the angle iron. The root of the angle iron has a curved area and I needed the plastic block to sit firmly against both sides. You can see a gap on both sides of the block where I made a nominal 1 mm allowance. I then machined off the top using a small "V" block placed in the bottom of the mill vice and strips of wood to protect the sides. Using a larger "V" block stood on end in the mill vice I carefully drilled a 7 mm hole through and then threaded the hole M8 X 1.25.

I then marked out and drilled 2.5 mm holes in each side of the jig for the screws to fasten the plastic block. After making sure that the block still sat down against the angle iron I clamped it with a G clamp and clamped the threaded rod at the other end using the rubber clamp. Using the holes I had drilled I then drilled the plastic block 2.5 mm. These holes were threaded M3 x 0.5 mm.

I opened out the holes in each side of the jig to 3.2 mm and countersunk them so that the screw heads would be below the surface of the sides. I used 10 mm long M3 slotted head countersunk screws to secure the plastic block into the jig.

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This picture shows the rubber clamp after peening over the copper rivet heads and drilling the 4 mm hole for the guide pin. Whilst I am happy that this arrangement works, I'm not pleased with its stability. The 2 BA screw is nowhere near stable enough to stop the clamp wandering whilst tightening it down.

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These are the components used along with the knob that I put on the end of the threaded rod. I used the remaining bit of Nylon 66 threaded it and screwed it onto the end. I then drilled it 2.5 mm and knocked a 2.5 mm steel pin through. Stuck it in the lathe and turned it down to produce a knob. It really needs to be knurled now to finish it off.

Still more to do. Thanks all for watching. :)

Steamwhisperer

27th October 2014, 07:20 PM

Hi BaronJ,
loving this thread and thanks for posting.
Considering building one in the future thanks to your thread.

Phil

BaronJ

29th October 2014, 05:01 AM

Hi Guys,

Well after a busy morning putting a new mains outlet socket in the garage, I've found some time to do some more work on the Drill Grinding Jig. As you will recall I haven't been too happy about the amount of slop in the screw that I used to tighten the drill clamp. So I've done something about it.

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Unfortunately I didn't have any of the 5/8" or 3/4" inch thick Nylon 66 left but I did find a piece of 1/2" inch thick sheet. So I cut a small rectangular piece and milled it down to fit on top of the jig. I marked it out for four holes 2.5 mm diameter 5 mm in from each edge. I also decided to move the clamp screw hole back so that it was 10 mm from the back edge but still central. Using this plastic block as a template I spotted through and drilled through the top plate with four 2.5 mm holes. Afterwards I also opened these holes in the plastic block out to 3.2 mm to clear M3 screws.

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Now I had my four corner holes drilled in the jig, I threaded them to suit M3 fastening screws.

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I really should have opened the large hole in the jig top plate out using a slot drill in the mill. But being a little lazy I used an 8.5 mm drill in the drill press. As you can see I ended up with a pear shaped hole that ran off into the existing hole. I actually had to file the back edge of the hole to make sure that it cleared the new M8 clamp screw. The four screws that you can see to the right are 5/8" inch long M3 Philips head screws salvaged from a computer power supply fan fastening. These are the ones I have used to secure the plastic block to the top of the jig.

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These pictures show the plastic block now fastened to the top of the jig. They say "Hindsight is a wonderful thing" :) If I was doing this again I would have not welded the top plate and made the sides 12.5 mm longer. Then I could have just used the plastic block between the sides and secured it as I did the adjusting screw nut. As it happened the welding hardened the metal and made it tough to drill and thread.

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The clamp, its new screw and a picture of how it now looks. The spigot is 4 mm diameter, not three as I mentioned earlier. I will make a knob to fit on top using another bit of scrap Nylon 66.

Thanks for following along, its nice to know :D

BaronJ

30th October 2014, 11:13 PM

Hi Guys,

Not done much, I've been busy painting. :) Anyhow I made a knob for the clamp screw and just need to cut off the overhanging bits at the back of the jig. Next job is to find some suitable material to make the rest and guide.

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This shows the new knob and the clamp securing a 2.5 mm drill. The two brass bits at the bottom are the dowels that will be used to locate the whole drill jig onto the work rest. They will fit into the holes on each side as shown in the right hand photograph.

I'll post some more as I make the other bits for this project.

BaronJ

31st October 2014, 04:49 AM

Hi All,

Just a very quick post to say that I've redrawn the Drill Grinding Jig drawing. It now shows the modifications that I did with regard to the Nylon 66 block used for the drill clamping nut.

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329712
Thanks:

Ueee

1st November 2014, 10:11 AM

Hi BaronJ
The reason I've opted to go with the Drill grinders that I've looked at is, because of the capacity. I need to be able to sharpen up to 32mm (1-1/4") diameter drill bits both in reduced shank and Morse taper. The Tool & Cutter Grinder that I have which is a Herless BM-450A actually has a Picador style Drill sharpening attachment in its Manual. I haven't got around to trying a Picador style attachment as yet, but I do hope too soon. Thanks for for Links too. I see Graham has actually increased the Capacity of his sharpener set up so that it can do 25mm.
I'm certainly interested in your Project and will be following it with interest.

I am in the same boat, i want a drill sharpener but need it to go up to larger sizes. I find sharpening drills by hand is fine in smaller sizes but once you get over 1/2" or so i find it hard to get even results.

I'm liking what i see here Baron.:2tsup:

Ew

Oldneweng

1st November 2014, 08:57 PM

I’m having a seniors moment I think, I’m not sure I’m understanding the design of this jig, I’m assuming the locating pins on the side are so you can flip the jig from one side to the other in order to grind both shoulders at the same length. That being the case, the centre line of the drill would have to be in line with the locating pins. Is there something to come that will enable the drill centre line to be adjusted so it lines up with the pins?

I am not sure which pins you mean, but the drill bit centres in the angle piece and is rotated 180 deg in this to grind the other side. Think of the angle piece as a Vee Block.

Dean

BaronJ

1st November 2014, 08:59 PM

Hello Irony,

I’m having a seniors moment I think, I’m not sure I’m understanding the design of this jig, I’m assuming the locating pins on the side are so you can flip the jig from one side to the other in order to grind both shoulders at the same length. That being the case, the centre line of the drill would have to be in line with the locating pins. Is there something to come that will enable the drill centre line to be adjusted so it lines up with the pins?

I hope you are mistaken :) Because if not I've made a major boo boo :D

The idea is to ensure that the cutting edge remains parallel to the grinding wheel whilst being moved across its face. The dowels will ensure that the cutting edges of the drill are both set at the same angle and by implication, should be the same length.

I'll do a sketch to show what I mean.

Dean,
Just to clarify, the whole jig is intended to be used laying on its side, located by the two dowels set in a movable plate resting on the grinding platform. It is intended that the platform be tilted to set the primary and secondary rake angles.

BaronJ

1st November 2014, 09:47 PM

Once one edge has been ground Is the jig meant to be flipped over 180 degrees to grind the other edge; or, is the drill bit mean't to be turned 180 degrees in the jig with the jig remaining in the same position?

Hi Irony,
The whole jig is intended to be turned over 180 degrees. Removing the drill introduces the risk of failing to get it back in the same position and exactly 180.

HTH.

BaronJ

2nd November 2014, 03:32 AM

Hi Irony,

I've given your comments some thought and taken your advice about a mock up. I was going to do a drawing but since I did a mock up I thought I might as well take some photographs to show how I expect it to work.

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This picture shows the setup that I used to check that the jig will do what is required. I've clamped two pieces of strip to a bit of plate so that the jig will be held in exactly the same place. I also used the biggest drill I've got so that the cutting edges can be seen. The set square is there so that you can see the angle of the cutting edge when the jig is turned over. Note that in use the cutting edges of the drill should be aligned so that they are vertical when the jig is stood upright. This allows a set square to be used to ensure that they are.

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As can be seen the drill cutting edges will be presented to the grinding wheel at exactly the same angle irrespective of which way round the jig is placed. Now if the plate upon which the jig is mounted is moved from side to side the drill cutting edge will be ground. The whole jig and its mounting plate will have to be angled down, or up to grind the rake on the drill.

However I do now see a potential problem. :D But I'll talk about that later.

Thank you for your observation and comments. :) Sometimes an idea needs to be rethought out.

Steamwhisperer

2nd November 2014, 07:12 AM

Hi Baron,
I think what Irony is saying is that when you rotate the jig 180 deg, the drill should be in exactly the same position so as to be able to grind the same 'amount' of each cutting edge of the drill.
As you say, by 'implication' the drill will be at the same angle but you need to be able to cut the exact same amount off the drills' cutting edges and if the pins aren't exactly on the centreline of the drill this could be a bit difficult.
Maybe you have already spotted this already though.

Phil

Oldneweng

2nd November 2014, 10:09 AM

The method of operation is becoming clearer now.

I believe I have notice what your potential problem is. I hate it when stuff like that happens.

I have never had problems with locating the drill bit back in the same position after removing it. I found a method that ensures this occurs, but it involves a little bit more care than the instructions suggest. With the angle "Vee Block", the back stop and the front locating tab the drill bit is exactly located provided you release the pressure and hold the bit in position while retightening. This is not required every time while roughing, but I found more success using this method. I have also not had any issues with the supplied clamp moving the bit on tightening, but then I hold the bit in position with the tip of my finger while doing up the clamp.

I also do a roughing cut on both sides then a final finish cut on both.

I am following your build with interest. I am waiting to see how you acheive a 4 facet grind.

Dean

Oldneweng

2nd November 2014, 10:11 AM

This is rather difficult to explain without the use of a model or a drawing. Steamwhisperer went some way to an explanation so I'll try to build on that.

The shoulders of the drill's cutting edges, as you say, will be the same angle, but, the length of those shoulders will not be the same; ie, the point of the drill will be off centre.

Depending on whether the drill centreline is above or below the locating pins, the drill, when presented to the grindstone, will be either closer or further away from the grinding wheel when you flip the jig 180 degrees. Conversely, if the drill centreline is in line with the locating pins, the drill point will be central and both shoulders of the cutting edge will be the same length

Another explanation: If you draw a line through the locating pins, where that line meets the grindstone is where the point of the drill will be. If the drill centreline is not inline with the locating pins, the drills cutting edge shoulders will be of unequal length making the drill point off centre.

Following on from that, place a drill in the jig and align the edge of a ruler through the centre of the locating pin, the edge of the ruler should line up with the point of the drill because that is where the point of the drill would meet the grindstone.

There, now I've made it impossible for everyone to understand, even me!

Think flat grinding surface such as the side of the wheel, hence Barons problem.

Dean

Oldneweng

2nd November 2014, 07:23 PM

This didn't come out on first drawing. Sorry, I haven't grown artistically since the last drawing...

That is not how these work. The drill bit is sharpened on a flat grinding surface, not on the normal curved grinding surface of a grinding wheel. They can be used on the side of a grinding wheel. This style of drill bit sharpener has been around for about 100 years. It is nothing new. Baron and others are just making modifications to the design.

Dean

Steamwhisperer

2nd November 2014, 07:51 PM

Hi Dean,
would you have a pic or a link of one where the whole jig turns 180 deg and not just the drill bit that rotates 180 deg.
You have piqued my interest now.

Phil

Oldneweng

2nd November 2014, 08:34 PM

I see what you are saying. We will have to wait and see what the end result is like.

Sorry Phil, I cannot help you there.

Dean

BaronJ

2nd November 2014, 09:51 PM

Hi Irony,

Sorry about the quality, I'm artistically challenged.

Ah ! Yes I see where you are going. :) Your drawing skill is far better than mine.

I'm going to have to give this some more thought :(:(:(

Originally I had considered the side of the wheel :no: simply because I have a fine grit (220) one that is metal backed. So its the front of the wheel for now, that I've realised that part of the jig will catch the wheel unless the drill sticks out a good way.

BaronJ

2nd November 2014, 10:13 PM

Both of these links link to flip over over type jigs.

They are the only commercially available jigs I'm aware of that flip over instead of rotating the drill bit. Both use the same clamping system, the other parts of the jig differ.

A few years ago I nutted out a design where the jig was flipped 180 degrees. I made the jig but sold it shortly after with the intention of making another without the visible mistakes, holes drilled in the wrong place, etc, but never got around to it. Baron has piqued my interest again so I may have to dig out my drawings and notes and get to work again.

If my comments have upset anyone, say the word and I won't comment further on this thread.

Lets have none of this ! :) I make mistakes ! I'm sure we all do. :) Your knowledge and experiences are just as valuable as anybody else's. You and others make valid points, OK you triggered me to think more about where I was going, so I'm not going to get upset and nor should anybody else ! :):):)

My comments are based on the mistakes I made when building my jig. I wasn't aware of the two links I posted when I built mine so the clamping mechanism differs in appearance only, the clamp works on a similar principle.

Ropetangler

2nd November 2014, 10:28 PM

All members are free to comment on this forum Irony, provided they are not making personal attacks on anyone else or breaking any other forum rules. The forum rules are pretty universal in nature and any reasonably normal person will have no trouble in interpreting them, and they are easy to find if the need is there. Personally speaking, I have found your posts in this thread, helpful and informative, and in no way objectionable. You would appear to be trying to pass on your experiences and assisting in a pleasant and helpful way, so I feel that you need have no concern about treading on anyones toes so to speak. I would be pretty confidant that most if not all other contributors to this thread would be of similar opinion, so please continue with your posts. Sometimes we can make a mistake in our thinking, and having someone point out the error should not offend unless of course the "correction" was made in an abusive or threatening tone, and that is not the way you have approached the topic in my view.:2tsup:
Rob

Edit: I'm obviously a bit slow and Baron J has beaten me to it.

Steamwhisperer

3rd November 2014, 06:19 AM

I see what you are saying. We will have to wait and see what the end result is like.

Sorry Phil, I cannot help you there.

Dean

No worries Dean, Google's not being my friend at the moment. :)
I do believe that Baron will have this problem sorted in very short shift though.
Still a great thread Baron.

Phil

Oldneweng

3rd November 2014, 06:40 PM

No issues from my end Irony. I should have been quicker to catch on to your meaning.

Cheers Dean

derekcohen

3rd November 2014, 09:13 PM

Hi Irony,
The whole jig is intended to be turned over 180 degrees. Removing the drill introduces the risk of failing to get it back in the same position and exactly 180.

HTH.

I've been reading along and feeling a little puzzled about this jig. Forgive me if I have failed to understand what you plan to do, but it seems that you will grind a vee using the jig to align the drill bit. And that's all? If so, that will result in a flat bevel. Is that correct?

That is not how a drill bit works. The flute is not only ground evenly on both sides, but also rounded. I used to grind my drill bits by hand on a disk sander, getting the angle as close to correct by eye, and then drawing the edge up the disk and turning it to get the round. These days I just use a Drill Doctor, and this does the same grind action.

A while back I came across and excellent video on Youtube that demonstrates this with a simple jig.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n1RccAzxLg&app=desktop

I would build this if I did not have the DD.

I do not see how your jig will work this way. What am I missing?

Regards from Perth

Derek

BaronJ

4th November 2014, 07:36 AM

No worries Dean, Google's not being my friend at the moment. :)
I do believe that Baron will have this problem sorted in very short shift though.
Still a great thread Baron.

Phil

Hi Dean,

Thankyou for your confidence in me. :-:-:-

In hindsight the flaws in my thinking should have been obvious.

BaronJ

6th November 2014, 07:14 AM

Hi Irony,

Obvious? I don’t think so. I made the same mistake and I’m pretty sure neither of us are orphans.

There is another way of ensuring the drill is in exactly the same position when it is turned over and that is to install an adjustable stop which locates in the flute. Same as on the jig in post #4.

Thank you for your kind words. :) When I've stopped kicking myself :D I'll come back to this ! Actually I've been doing some more work on the grinder. I needed to set the outer of the guard so that it was closer to the wheel and guard the rotating nut on the end of the spindle. I've spent some time today making four pillars that fit inside and allow the two half's to be securely fastened to one another. I've used four 1/4" diameter aluminum rods, 42 mm long, drilled and threaded at the ends to take 4BA screws. A quick splash of paint on there and its on to getting the grinding rest made.

I'm interested to learn of your experiences with making drill grinding jigs.

Later :):):)

BaronJ

8th November 2014, 07:21 AM

Hi Irony,

Your sketches put mine to shame. At least they look in perspective. :) Thankyou for letting me see them.

I like the idea in the middle sketch, particularly for smaller drills. Say 2 to 6 mm. A rubber pad between the two blocks would be
able to take up space due to the drill size differences and hold small drills securely whilst keeping the blocks parallel to each other.

Your grinding table would be a little too big for me in height. The grinder is only 5" inches centre height and will be mounted on a board so that I can move it out of the way when not in use. I don't have the floor space to put it on a stand. I was thinking about using something like the Harold Hall design with an adjustable table tilt. I would want to keep the grinding table less than this centre height.