Lathe Spindle

[dogcatcher]

I got hold of a old used lathe spindle that is 1" diameter, has 1-8TPI threads on the end with a 2MT socket. No bearings came with it, do I need the bearings since I plan on building an OT based on the Jack Chicks and Geoff OLaughlin rose engine lathes. My idea is to make both end supports out of 10" long pieces of 2x4, then, then cut off 1" on each of them. Drill and tap the end of the long pieces and drill the short pieces so I can bolt them back to the top of the supports. Drill in the center of the cut off a 1" hole of the haft to fit in.

I figure I will get a pretty snug fit on the spindle shaft, then soak each hole with some synthetic oil and I also plan to provide a way to keep it oiled a little. Being that the RE is hand turned, it's my theory that it's not going to get hot and the oil will keep it for wearing out the hole.

Anybody know if this theory will work? Or am I over thinking it?

Jack Chick's site http://grandpachick.wix.com/wood-art-by-jack#!about/component_73913

I have no clue on who made this one, but thanks for the picture. It sort of shows how I explained the idea of cutting and bolting it back together works.

http://www.otga.org.au/GalleryEquip2_files/Rose1.jpg

Thanks.

[Tangoman]

I am no expert but the idea seems good ! Keep us posted as to how it goes !

[Old-Biker-UK]

I would recommend fitting simple bronze bearings as while a Rose Engine doesn't turn fast steel on steel might give trouble.
Bearings in the form of loco horn blocks would allow the caps to be removed and the mandrell lifted out for changing the rosettes.
The bits I had to make my Rose Engine (http://www.remark.me.uk/pages/hobbies/ornamental/ornamental.html) did not allow this so I have to dismantle the whole thing to change the rosettes.

Mark

[wheelinround]

[QUOTE=dogcatcher;1825719]I got hold of a old used lathe spindle that is 1" diameter, has 1-8TPI threads on the end with a 2MT socket. No bearings came with it, do I need the bearings since I plan on building an OT based on the Jack Chicks and Geoff OLaughlin rose engine lathes. My idea is to make both end supports out of 10" long pieces of 2x4, then, then cut off 1" on each of them. Drill and tap the end of the long pieces and drill the short pieces so I can bolt them back to the top of the supports. Drill in the center of the cut off a 1" hole of the haft to fit in.

I figure I will get a pretty snug fit on the spindle shaft, then soak each hole with some synthetic oil and I also plan to provide a way to keep it oiled a little. Being that the RE is hand turned, it's my theory that it's not going to get hot and the oil will keep it for wearing out the hole.

Anybody know if this theory will work? Or am I over thinking it?

Jack Chick's site http://grandpachick.wix.com/wood-art-by-jack#!about/component_73913

I have no clue on who made this one, but thanks for the picture. It sort of shows how I explained the idea of cutting and bolting it back together works.

http://www.otga.org.au/GalleryEquip2_files/Rose1.jpg

Thanks.[/QUOTE

That Rose Engine is Tim Peaslys of the OTGA (http://www.otga.org.au/GalleryEquip2.htm) a few more photos at that link.

No oil is used on any of the Rose engines made at OTGA just adjusting the caps for tension and operation being done.

No bearings are used either as the shaft moves axially also when using the swash type plate fitted see link to photos above.

That frame Tim made was/is either Jarrah or Red Gum.

Tim has now motorised his. sorry no photos of that.

[dogcatcher]

Thanks for the replies, if Tim Peasly's works without bearings mine should also be good to go, No metal to metal contact, I had planned on using maple as my uprights and giving the hole where the shaft is a soak with synthetic oil. Also a drill a drip hole from the top so I could add more oil later. Both ends of shaft a threaded, one will be for the chuck, other for the rosette.

Now I need some warm weather to a mock up of this. Thanks again

[dogcatcher]

I would recommend fitting simple bronze bearings as while a Rose Engine doesn't turn fast steel on steel might give trouble.
Bearings in the form of loco horn blocks would allow the caps to be removed and the mandrell lifted out for changing the rosettes.
The bits I had to make my Rose Engine (http://www.remark.me.uk/pages/hobbies/ornamental/ornamental.html) did not allow this so I have to dismantle the whole thing to change the rosettes.

Mark

I am lost on "loco horn blocks", what are they?

Thanks

[wheelinround]

Thanks for the replies, if Tim Peasly's works without bearings mine should also be good to go, No metal to metal contact, I had planned on using maple as my uprights and giving the hole where the shaft is a soak with synthetic oil. Also a drill a drip hole from the top so I could add more oil later. Both ends of shaft a threaded, one will be for the chuck, other for the rosette.

Now I need some warm weather to a mock up of this. Thanks again

Why oil? None of use oil on the design like Tim's if the shaft is clean and smooth where the rocker headstock and shaft meet you should have no problem. If I could afford it I'd use Lignum Vite no need to oil then.
Don't forget to allow axial movement also.

In using an M2 taper how will you remove it? Unless your shaft is through all the way.

[dogcatcher]

Oil? I have no clue, I just remembered an old lathe my grandpa had that was out of maple that the spindle was secured in a maple headstock and had an oil hole.

The spindle shaft has a hole through it for a knockout bar. This will be used on duck call bodies, all I need is rosettes, no bumping cam for left to right needed at this time.

[Old-Biker-UK]

Sorry - missed the bit about a wooden frame (I was thinking steel but then 2 x 4 in steel would be a bit OT)
Working life of wooden bearings would depend on the timber used . As mentioned above Lignum would be my choice if you can get hold of any (old bowling ball?)

Loco horn block bearings are square blocks bored for the axles, slotted either side to slide up and down in the horn plates. They are split horizontally for fitting & removal.

Mark

[dogcatcher]

Thanks, now I know what loco horn blocks are. I am sure I will use maple for the trial set up, then use mesquite for my final version. I been thinking, I have some acetyl, I may go ahead and make "bearings" using it.

[dogcatcher]

Starting to come together, the headstock part is semi complete. Does anyone have pics of how they made their rosettes so that they are equal in all measurements? Did you draw them off and the cut with a bandsaw or scroll saw? Did you mil them with a drill press or a milling machine? I have pics of rosettes that I can follow, just looking for easiest ways to make them

Thank.

[wheelinround]

Starting to come together, the headstock part is semi complete. Does anyone have pics of how they made their rosettes so that they are equal in all measurements? Did you draw them off and the cut with a bandsaw or scroll saw? Did you mil them with a drill press or a milling machine? I have pics of rosettes that I can follow, just looking for easiest ways to make them

Thank.

That would depend on what you are making them from.
What you have machine wise to make them.

So far I have seen and made them from all of the above even router.

Time you showed some photos if your this far along

[dogcatcher]

I haven't taken any pics yet. A cold front moved through and for 3 days we have been in the low 20's, but I will get pics the next time it warms up.

I have some hard plastic cutting boards that I will use for the rosettes. If they don' work I will go with plywood.

[dogcatcher]

This is the "headstock" as of today. The white disc will be a rosette if and when I figure out how to cut it. I have a steering wheel that I will add to rotate it when I get that far. This will only be used for duck call barrels and bottle stoppers. I have a cross slide and will use a trim router for the cutter.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2drb40p.jpg