HELP!!!! lattice type turning!

[smiife]

Hi guys,
Spent the day trying to work out how to turn a lattice type
piece , which i wanted to cut and fit in to the top of a box
Checked out u-tube and found what I wanted only trouble
was the guy was from israel or the middle east somewhere
anyway i followed the basics of it, even though i could not
understand a word he said:no:
He made it look very easy, let me tell you it sure ain, t:o
I am now up to attempt no. 6!!!:~
I am sure the talented people here can guide me in
the right direction and have lots of other ideas and ways
of doing this, here are my pretty ordinary attempts!
OH WELL all in a days fun at the lathe
Any help and advice would be appreciated:2tsup:

[Oldgreybeard]

Hi smiife,
Lattice-lidded box is #47 in Chris Stott's book.

PM me with your email address and I will see if I can send you some info.

Bob.

[chuck1]

Maybe a thinner parting tool?! The are looking good. Pratice pratice pratice! I would like to give it a spin one day!

[brendan stemp]

I think it is a matter of the right timber for the right job. Perhaps look at using a more suitable timber.

[Mobyturns]

I've only had a play with lattice turning a few years ago & decided it wasn't for me. None of my attempts met my standards so are somewhere in landfill. :B I was also working on smaller scale pieces.

A few little tricks I picked up that improved my success rate were mark out the rings very accurately then work from the outer ring to the inner. Minimize any possible vibration / chatter and secure the work very well. Timber choice does have a fair bit to do with success but the grain in your timber looks OK. I also used sacrificial waste blocks when turning the off center rings.

The ring cutting tools that Hans Wiessflog & Ken Wraight use are modified round bar from memory, but they cut rings less than 1 mm wide. They use the round bar to eliminate chatter in the "parting tool".

[QuarkVI]

Found this link that contains a picture of the tool used by Hans W.

http://s3.amazonaws.com/cmwt.production/paperclip/files/82/Hans_Weissflog_Spider_Box.pdf?1328056966

[tore]

Here is another link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHaSpIiHcAI

[pommyphil]

Hi Smiife I've never tried this but now I'm inspired. In the Utube clip he's cutting end grain, which I'd think would be heaps easier than the side grain your experimenting with. Cheers Phil

[Mobyturns]

Found this link that contains a picture of the tool used by Hans W.

http://s3.amazonaws.com/cmwt.production/paperclip/files/82/Hans_Weissflog_Spider_Box.pdf?1328056966

That is the tool profile I saw in Hans' Turnfest demo in 2007?

[Hermit]

G'day Michael, I've had it in the back of my mind to try this for a while, but haven't got around to it.
I have a link to another YouTube vid that might help.

This one is by Eddie Castelin, and shows an alternate way of chucking the piece, along with his idea of the right tool for the job:
68 Eccentric Turning (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucNXE1P99-Y)

I was wondering, too, would this be easier with green instead of dry timber?
(Eddie Castelin's looked a lot like it was still wet, the way it was cutting.)

This has motivated me. I'll have to give it a try soon. Keeping what Brendan said in mind, I have a nice little piece of old Huon sitting here that's just what the doctor ordered, I reckon. Not green, but it cuts well.

I also had a link to Pablo Nemzoff's video, but I just re-read your first post. :-

There are links to a couple of threads on the subject at the bottom of the page, too, I notice.

[WoodWriteOz]

there is an ideal Jig made by Richard Joyner and Marketed by Ruth Niles in USA...Bill Kloepping has produces at treatise titled:
" A Free Computer Design Tool for the Richard Joyner Pendant Jig By Bill Kloepping"

Eddie Castelin's YouTube Video is great ..even though he isn't enjoying good health at the moment...llok at both may help...

[Dalboy]

I did a basic lattice lid for a pot-porri that I made see picture


333746333747


This is the jig that I used it is attached to a faceplate I used the top circle to make this lid by turning the blank to the size of the circle which is the same depth as the lid material. This is then held in the circular recess by double sided tape and also the wooden clip which has to be moved once you complete 1/2 of the first side otherwise you can not do the outer slots. The lid part is removed and turned over and replaced into the recess also turned 180deg so the circular slots of the lid are in opposite directions.
When cutting the slots for the lid you only need to go in by 1/2 the thickness of the wood any clean up is done using needle files.

Hope you understand this unfortunately I can not do a wip with loads of picture not at least until after Christmas due to making other things that need to be made for Christmas Namely the banger track I am doing in the toymaking section



333748

[smiife]

Hi guys,
Sorry i havn, t replied sooner been a bit busy at work
and watching all the lattice videos:Uand i have finally
got to reply,!
Thanks to all for the suggestions and replies
I firstly just used some old pine offcuts just as test
pieces really, but the last piece was saffrass and as
has been said , the timber choice is important, I was
thinking of using a piece of burl next , a lot harder
and i think it might be better,,,,,!
also as has been said a thinner parting tool
(santa has been put on notice for this one):o
I am also going to try and make a thinner tool
to cut the rings to the right depth
Not much chance of turning here during the week
but will try out some of your suggestions on the weekend
thanks again to everyone for there input and advice
got to go , found another u-tube !!!!:U

[Hermit]

I did a basic lattice lid for a pot-porri that I made see picture


333746333747


This is the jig that I used it is attached to a faceplate I used the top circle to make this lid by turning the blank to the size of the circle which is the same depth as the lid material. This is then held in the circular recess by double sided tape and also the wooden clip which has to be moved once you complete 1/2 of the first side otherwise you can not do the outer slots. The lid part is removed and turned over and replaced into the recess also turned 180deg so the circular slots of the lid are in opposite directions.
When cutting the slots for the lid you only need to go in by 1/2 the thickness of the wood any clean up is done using needle files.

Hope you understand this unfortunately I can not do a wip with loads of picture not at least until after Christmas due to making other things that need to be made for Christmas Namely the banger track I am doing in the toymaking section



333748

Derek, I was wondering. How thick was the piece of timber and how wide are the cuts? Hard to tell scale from the pics.

Nice job, by the way, as always. :2tsup:

[Dalboy]

Derek, I was wondering. How thick was the piece of timber and how wide are the cuts? Hard to tell scale from the pics.

Nice job, by the way, as always. :2tsup:

From memory the thickness is about 1/4" ( which I am sure is getting worse the older I get ) and I used a 1/8" parting tool for the grooves the lattice without the outer ring is just a fraction over 2" I still have the jig in the draw so was able to measure that.

Just out of interest the wood used was beech which is a close grained wood and is ideal for this type of work. Anything that splinters easy is not really suitable

[Hermit]

From memory the thickness is about 1/4" ( which I am sure is getting worse the older I get ) and I used a 1/8" parting tool for the grooves the lattice without the outer ring is just a fraction over 2" I still have the jig in the draw so was able to measure that.

Just out of interest the wood used was beech which is a close grained wood and is ideal for this type of work. Anything that splinters easy is not really suitable

Excellent, thanks for that Derek. I'm trying to work out dimensions for my attempt, and noticed that wider slots make it easier to see the pattern from an angle. I'll probably go with 1/8" too.

I forgot to ask what timber you used. Beech. I've got a large offcut of White Beech here, so it's on the list, along with the Huon Pine and I want to try a bit of Purpleheart to see if I can get away with it.

My problem now is that for the amount of offset that I want, I can't fit a disc on the lathe to turn a recess for the workpiece to sit into. I'll have to route that, offset into a 240mm faceplate disc to just fit my 250mm swing lathe. (Should have bought a bigger one.)

[Dalboy]

My problem now is that for the amount of offset that I want, I can't fit a disc on the lathe to turn a recess for the workpiece to sit into. I'll have to route that, offset into a 240mm faceplate disc to just fit my 250mm swing lathe. (Should have bought a bigger one.)

Depending on how large you want the disc to be, the solution I used for mine as it was only 2" diameter was to cut the recess with a forstner Bit.

[Hermit]

Depending on how large you want the disc to be, the solution I used for mine as it was only 2" diameter was to cut the recess with a forstner Bit.

I'm planning to go a little bigger and don't have any large Forstner bits. Shouldn't be a worry with the Dremel/plunge router attachment though.

[pommyphil]

So, I had a play. Started with some practice cuts with no offset in a bit of Mulberry endgrain using a GPW thin parting tool ($17.50) Cut slots 5mm deep down to 20mm dia no problems. Then built a jig as shown in the utube clip. Faceplate 135mm dia and some 70mm Liquid Amber blanks.
The first attempt I tried to go too small in the centre and it chipped out ( the pale one in the photo ) The second one worked fine with little cleanup and no special tools.334044334043334045 the dowel offset is 20mm

[Hermit]

So, I had a play. Started with some practice cuts with no offset in a bit of Mulberry endgrain using a GPW thin parting tool ($17.50) Cut slots 5mm deep down to 20mm dia no problems. Then built a jig as shown in the utube clip. Faceplate 135mm dia and some 70mm Liquid Amber blanks.
The first attempt I tried to go too small in the centre and it chipped out ( the pale one in the photo ) The second one worked fine with little cleanup and no special tools.334044334043334045 the dowel offset is 20mm

Looking good Phil. :2tsup:
The Mulberry was end-grain cutting. Were the others end-grain also, or side-grain? I can't see the pics well enough to tell. (My eyes, not your pics.)

I've made a 180mm faceplate with a routed 55mm x 3.2mm circular recess for the workpiece, 52mm offset, but haven't cut any blanks yet. Hopefully later this arvo. Had to mow the lawns first. :(

Edit: That's a 1/16" parting tool, I assume? I'll use a 1/8". Don't have a 1/16". Looks like Gary Pye will be seeing another order from me. His 3/8" spindle gouge is fine, holds an edge well. Good value for about $20.

[pommyphil]

Yes, all the other is side grain. The parting tool is 2mm so a bit better than sixteenth. Phil

[Hermit]

Yes, all the other is side grain. The parting tool is 2mm so a bit better than sixteenth. Phil

Thanks Phil. You made it look easy, but I'll bet I have more trouble. :D

2mm :doh:. I was planning to do 2mm slots/ridges after some practice, but didn't know you could buy a ready-made 2mm parting tool, so I ordered a 200mm x 2mm x 5mm piece of HSS steel to make a tool. If I'd known.....

Still, I can use it to make a pair of tools for some tests - a 2mm flat cutter and a 2mm bead cutter. I was thinking, cut a row of beads centred 4mm apart, then run through with the slot cutter to cut the grooves in between.

[Hermit]

Dunno what I was so nervous about. :rolleyes:

For a first try, I used a piece of very dry, splintery Tassie Oak. (I already had a piece of 1/4" sitting here and was too impatient to cut up the White Beech yet.)

My mini lathe was jumping out the door initially, so I had to drill a couple of extra 8mm 'push-out' holes under the blank for balance. OK now as long as I spin the lathe at 1500 or faster. The faster the better anyway.
I ran out of time and only got the first of 4 sets of cuts done, but so far so good.

334077 334076

For a depth guide, I inset the blank exactly half it's thickness into the faceplate, then cut until I just brushed the faceplate surface.

To make things easier and more accurate, after mounting the blank I used a compass to draw 3 lines per slot onto both the faceplate and the blank, one accurate line at each side of where the slot would be, then a rough line in the centre. When the rough line just started to disappear I knew I was in half-way. (To do this, though, you have to be careful to avoid a parallax error by looking on from directly in front of the cut. If your eyes are to the side, the cut will be too.)

To clamp the blank, I have thin DS tape underneath then the visible 1.5mm strip of Blackbutt screwed across the top as an extra safety measure.

The original reason I didn't use the dowel method of registering the blank was that it limited the amount of offset too much. The depth thing was a bonus that I thought of later. :wink:

This is fun. :D

This is what I'm aiming for:
334078

[Hermit]

I thought I'd better show the result of my attempt, warts 'n all. Lots of room for improvement, especially in aligning the ends of the front beads with the ends of the back ones, to give the 'folded' look.
It's not cleaned up much, just a quick sand with 120G.
I need to put more effort into aligning the tool precisely between my pencil marks, (uneven bead widths), but overall it worked out fairly well.

334174 334175

I'll give it a squirt of satin aerosol Estapol later, but I'm still not sure what I'll do with it.


Michael, we're all looking forward to seeing your results, when you get time to have another go. I'm sure it was only something minor causing your problem, possibly just the timber.
Some of us have too much time on our hands.

[pommyphil]

:2tsup: :2tsup: :2tsup:

[Simplicity]

:2tsup:
I've been following this again in the shadows.
But if that's your first attempt hermit.
It's a bloody good one

[Hermit]

:2tsup:
I've been following this again in the shadows.
But if that's your first attempt hermit.
It's a bloody good one

Thanks for that mate. Just lucky, I guess.
Still, as mentioned, there's plenty of room for improvement.

I've been thinking about applications for these lattice discs. They could be used as insets/inlays in a wide range of things. Really small, fine ones could even be used in a feature ring of a segmented turning, if enough care was taken. Might have to give it a shot sometime.
It could look good on the bottom of a bowl, too, if encased in resin.

I've also been playing around in my PCB CAD software, drawing sets of concentric circles on different layers and moving them around to create patterns. It's surprising how many good-looking patterns can be created that should work in timber.
A 3D version could be laminated up, too - turn the top and bottom, glue on another layer, then turn a slightly offset copy of the pattern, etc.

Meantime, I can't wait for my 2mm x 5mm HSS bar to arrive so I can make 2mm bead and slot cutters and try the bead-then-groove method. I want to go a bit bigger than 55mm, too, so I can fit more lines in.

[smiife]

Hey tisn, t fair you blokes are way too good with these thingy, s
I found just a couple of hours today to have a play, but ended up
rushing to get at least something finished, this attempt no.6:o
Found a scrap piece of burl, not sure what type?
So here is my pretty poor attempt , warts and all, but i still learnt
somethings not to do, my approach is different to yours but i ain, t
given up yet, no.7 already on the bench ready to go:U
I have to say it has been good fun trying and to see how others
are going about it !

[Hermit]

Hey tisn, t fair you blokes are way too good with these thingy, s
I found just a couple of hours today to have a play, but ended up
rushing to get at least something finished, this attempt no.6:o
Found a scrap piece of burl, not sure what type?
So here is my pretty poor attempt , warts and all, but i still learnt
somethings not to do, my approach is different to yours but i ain, t
given up yet, no.7 already on the bench ready to go:U
I have to say it has been good fun trying and to see how others
are going about it !

Looking pretty good to me. :2tsup:

You've taken on a fairly tricky pattern, and pulled it off. Mine was comparatively simple in that respect, with no really small holes or sharp angles. Your spacing looks more accurate, too.

It is fun, isn't it?
(I'm still in shock that I pulled one off without a catch.)

Edit: I should have added - there's a big downside to my method. If I want to use the faceplate again, I need to fill the slots left from this first one.
Out with the body-filler. A quick wipe and a sand flush and it will be good to go again.
My measurements weren't spot-on, and I had to go deeper on the second side to meet the first, leaving about 1/2mm slots.

[Simplicity]

Ye I've been thinking about applications to
I was Also thinking I wish I had seen this before I just finished the jewellery box for my wife.
I think that could I've looked great in the top with the ebony final.

Another idea I had today ,was and this is not an attempt to hijack this thread.
You could use a router on tremel bar to if you wanted.
A large sheet of mdf with your work position centre .
Then a series of holes placed along horizontal and vertical lines matching your desired spacing with the router set on a tremel bar.
Even using a small coving bit would be interesting.
Or even a V bit .
And swing the router over it.
I hope that all makes sense.
But this something I think I will have to explore a bit more.

[smiife]

Ye I've been thinking about applications to
I was Also thinking I wish I had seen this before I just finished the jewellery box for my wife.
I think that could I've looked great in the top with the ebony final.

Another idea I had today ,was and this is not an attempt to hijack this thread.
You could use a router on tremel bar to if you wanted.
A large sheet of mdf with your work position centre .
Then a series of holes placed along horizontal and vertical lines matching your desired spacing with the router set on a tremel bar.
Even using a small coving bit would be interesting.
Or even a V bit .
And swing the router over it.
I hope that all makes sense.
But this something I think I will have to explore a bit more.

Pardon my ignorance but what is "tremel bar"and how
does that work with a router on the lathe?

[Simplicity]

Sorry that's my shocking spelling.
I meant trammel bar

[Hermit]

Ye I've been thinking about applications to
I was Also thinking I wish I had seen this before I just finished the jewellery box for my wife.
I think that could I've looked great in the top with the ebony final.

Another idea I had today ,was and this is not an attempt to hijack this thread.
You could use a router on tremel bar to if you wanted.
A large sheet of mdf with your work position centre .
Then a series of holes placed along horizontal and vertical lines matching your desired spacing with the router set on a tremel bar.
Even using a small coving bit would be interesting.
Or even a V bit .
And swing the router over it.
I hope that all makes sense.
But this something I think I will have to explore a bit more.

A router? Blasphemy. :D
(Not as much fun as by hand on the lathe, either.)

[Simplicity]

Lol
I will go back to my dark corner now
And just admire then
my huge apologies lol

[smiife]

Lol
I will go back to my dark corner now
And just admire then
my huge apologies lol

NO! NO! come back I still need to know what It is
However you spell It!!!!

[Simplicity]

A trammel bar is bar pivoted from either one or both ends.
If you place your router on say a length of 500mm timber wide enough to surport your router and place a hole in the end of the board at the other end
Then place a pin of sorts (a dowel)through that hole in to your large base board it will pivot from that point.
You can swing your router through an arc or even a full circle
Google pics may help
If my five second description hasn't.

[Hermit]

NO! NO! come back I still need to know what It is
However you spell It!!!!

Michael, I took it to mean a router with circle guide, but no lathe involved. Hopefully Simplicity will clarify.

Edit: Sorry, Matt replied as I was typing.

[Simplicity]

That's just what I was thinking
Thank you hermit
Matt

[Dalboy]

Well done to both of you on your lattice work.

They are not the easiest things to make when you first start out.

So to give you something to aim for a little How to by Ralph Harvey. The parts of the process are all I could find but should give some idea

Part 1 (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=2871)

Part 2 (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=2870)

Part 3 (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=2872)

Some other lattice work (http://www.getwoodworking.com/albums/member_album.asp?a=7212) by him in picture form

Hope the forum does not mind links to another woodworking site

Just found the very beginning Here (http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article/making-a-lattice-guide--part-12/922)

[Hermit]

Well done to both of you on your lattice work.

They are not the easiest things to make when you first start out.

So to give you something to aim for a little How to by Ralph Harvey. The parts of the process are all I could find but should give some idea

Part 1 (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=2871)

Part 2 (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=2870)

Part 3 (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=2872)

Some other lattice work (http://www.getwoodworking.com/albums/member_album.asp?a=7212) by him in picture form

Hope the forum does not mind links to another woodworking site

Dunno about the forum, but I definitely don't mind. :D

Some great food for thought there Derek.

I couldn't get your links to work properly, 'Part 1' leads to Part 2, etc, but in looking for Part 1 on the site in a search, I came up with a lot of similar articles, some by Ralph Harvey and some by others. Also links to Parts 1-4:
Lattice (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/searchresults.asp?Search=lattice&t=0)

Love the look of the segmented lattice that your last link leads to, by the way. That one looks tricky.

Thanks for pointing us in the right direction. Looks like I'll be doing a bit of reading tomorrow.

[Oldgreybeard]

Dunno about the forum, but I definitely don't mind. :D

Some great food for thought there Derek.

I couldn't get your links to work properly, 'Part 1' leads to Part 2, etc, but in looking for Part 1 on the site in a search, I came up with a lot of similar articles, some by Ralph Harvey and some by others. Also links to Parts 1-4:
Lattice (http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/searchresults.asp?Search=lattice&t=0)

Love the look of the segmented lattice that your last link leads to, by the way. That one looks tricky.

Thanks for pointing us in the right direction. Looks like I'll be doing a bit of reading tomorrow.

Thanks for the links, I have just had a breif browse but you have my attention. Will have to get into it over the holiday period - having a couple of weeks break from boxes.
Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

Bob

[smiife]

Thanks for the links and info guys, very much appreciate it
A round ball with lattice sounds like a challenge:o
I will try and get this flat work right first,
I have not giving up yet!:U

[chuck1]

I had a crack at a half round lattice yesterday! There will be no photos and it's laying next to the bin! Wasted a nice bit of coachwood!
Still feeling inspired by this thread!

[Hermit]

Thanks for the links, I have just had a brief browse but you have my attention. Will have to get into it over the holiday period - having a couple of weeks break from boxes.
Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

Bob

I somehow missed this post earlier Bob. From the look of your work on the boxes, making a concentric/eccentric lattice will be easy for you.
A nice touch for the top of some of your boxes.

You'll definitely be seeing more of my work, for what it's worth. I'm going flat-out at the moment, while the Sun shines.



I had a crack at a half round lattice yesterday! There will be no photos and it's laying next to the bin! Wasted a nice bit of coachwood!
Still feeling inspired by this thread!

I'm surprised that you had a problem with it Charlie. I'm sure it'll work fine next try.
Makes me feel even more lucky that I pulled one off on the first try. I didn't expect to carry the finished disc out of the shed - I thought I'd be sweeping it out. Let's see if I have the same luck next time. :fingerscrossed:

Looking forward to that 2mm x 5mm tool steel arriving. I can have a go at a finer lattice, cutting beads first and then the slots in between to see if that method works.
I was thinking of laminating two thin pieces of contrasting timber together for better effect. It'll also serve as a good, accurate depth gauge as a bonus. :wink:

[nalmo]

Just came across this on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbhghiRcOxY

Seems like a few good ideas.

[Hermit]

Just came across this on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbhghiRcOxY

Seems like a few good ideas.

Definitely. Thank you for the link. And I thought I'd seen all of the YouTube vids on the subject.

I'd already considered a scale along the toolrest, but hadn't thought of using a guide clamped to the scale or a depth gauge attached to the tool shaft.
I'll have to think about how to incorporate his tricks into my method. Wish I had a welder to make a custom toolrest.

It crossed my mind that it'd be easy with a compound slide, too, but sort of cheating.

Edit: Trust the Germans. They have engineering on the brain from the moment they're born. All of the best engineers I've ever known have been German.

[smiife]

Just came across this on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbhghiRcOxY

Seems like a few good ideas.

Hi nalmo,
I can see everone going out in their sheds and making one of those:o

[pommyphil]

Just came across this on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbhghiRcOxY

Seems like a few good ideas.


Notice there's no sharp corners on his dovetail jaws ? Ground then off himself or bought ?

[chuck1]

2nd and 4th go first is in bin and 3rd is yet to be found as it left the lathe at 500 rpm! Thanks smiife!
I have been friction chucking to do these, light one is rose wood and dark one is jarrah, need to make rings thinner!
back to the shed!

[chuck1]

Thanks smiife! :) Now my brain and patience are nearly going to explode! 2 hrs to get this! ;)

[Hermit]

Thanks smiife! :) Now my brain and patience are nearly going to explode! 2 hrs to get this! ;)

Well done. :clap:

2 hours for you, probably 2 months for me. :D

Looks great, Charlie.

[smiife]

Hi chuckie,
They look good, and hey you don, t have to thank me :U:roflmao:
I think you like a bit of a challenge , like me you will
keep going until you get it right, the half round one
Looks interesting, why does it have a hole in the centre?
i havn, t been able to get to the shed today:~ bloody xmas
shopping ( bah humbug )
How did you do yours?

[chuck1]

It blew out on me! I turned a ball between centres and made the grooves sanded. Then cut it in line with with the centres.
I then got a scrap bit of 4by4 pine in Chuck and hollowed it to fit had round and And hollowed it out then grooved the inside.
my sample was out of camphor, hardwood would be better!
But I have a lattice lid for a project now!

[smiife]

It blew out on me! I turned a ball between centres and made the grooves sanded. Then cut it in line with with the centres.
I then got a scrap bit of 4by4 pine in Chuck and hollowed it to fit had round and And hollowed it out then grooved the inside.
my sample was out of camphor, hardwood would be better!
But I have a lattice lid for a project now!

Yes I think that Is one of the problems, is the choice of timber!
good job anyway, and now you could put a finial In the top
My best attempt was a hard piece of burl, still got to try ball one!:o

[MrFez]

Another great thread ~ thanks guys :2tsup:

[chuck1]

I think if I make another ball one in softwood when I first turn the ball I'll coat it in c.a And once the inside is turned and sanded before grooves some more c.a.
Think it might help? Not sure.

[smiife]

Hi chuckie,
I think these type of turnings need to be made
from hard wood, burls even better, I like the finished
ball and finial, looks good

[Mobyturns]

Smiife,

See if you can get a copy of David Springett's book "Woodturning Wizardry" as he has some tips on flat & domed lattice turnings in it.

[smiife]

Smiife,

See if you can get a copy of David Springett's book "Woodturning Wizardry" as he has some tips on flat & domed lattice turnings in it.

Thanks moby,, I will have a look for a copy, cheers:2tsup:

[Oldgreybeard]

336817
Lid turned for Box # 47 in the series of Turned boxes - 50 designs by Chris Stott.

Wood is spalted Liquid Amber
Diameter: 50 mm
Thickness of lattice work: 3 mm






336822
Tool: reprofiled 2mm HSS parting tool ground down to 1mm thichness with tip ground to 2.5 mm deep point

More pics of the box at
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=189842&p=1836195#post1836195


Bob

[smiife]

336817
Lid turned for Box # 47 in the series of Turned boxes - 50 designs by Chris Stott.

Wood is spalted Liquid Amber
Diameter: 50 mm
Thickness of lattice work: 3 mm






336822
Tool: reprofiled 2mm HSS parting tool ground down to 1mm thichness with tip ground to 2.5 mm deep point

More pics of the box at
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=189842&p=1836195#post1836195


Bob
Hi bob,
Yeah I must have been repling to your box post
at the same time!,,,,,,, 1mm tool wow !!! thats thin

[WaggaSteve]

I dont disagree with their skills but may be starting to understand why. At about 1:15 on the video, does the guy appear to have 3 hands ?
Steve

g.

Edit: Trust the Germans. They have engineering on the brain from the moment they're born. All of the best engineers I've ever known have been German.

[RalphHarvey]

been a long time since i have seen any of this work, how did it turn out for you?