Disston D-8 replica

[rob streeper]

Like Ron I've been toying with the idea of making hand saws. I really like Disston's D-8 saws, particularly in the 20-24 inch range toothed at 10-12 ppi. I've never done double tapering before but I just got some 0.035" 1095 delivered and thought I'd give it a go.

Here are the results.

Plate before.

335471

I modeled this on a 22" D8 12 ppi original that I really like.

Here are the results of the taper grinding.

335473

It approximates the dimensions of the original, which as a 0.032" plate. Nonetheless I think I remove a couple of thousandths more down the center-line of the plate.

Cheers,
Rob

[rob streeper]

I got a chance to re-do this plate today. It is now 0.024" at the top of the toe and tapers smoothly back from there. This is going to be a worky addition, took me about an hour to do this.
336073

[hiroller]

Looks good.
What are you using to do the tapering?

[rob streeper]

Thanks, I use my 6" x 48" belt grinder and a ceramic belt. Rough shaping on 60 grit followed by 120 grit and buffing. Lot's of finesse too.

[hiroller]

Thanks. Sounds tricky. Are you just holding the plate by hand or do you mount it on a backing board. Is there a risk of losing the temper?

[rob streeper]

Thanks. Sounds tricky. Are you just holding the plate by hand or do you mount it on a backing board. Is there a risk of losing the temper?

At this point I'm doing it by hand. I've gone through a lot of gloves, blood and fingernails learning how to do it without getting hurt. You have to take it easy with the cutting so as to not overheat the steel. Lot's of passes with cooling in between.

[rob streeper]

I got all three of these D8 blades taper ground and toothed today. Here they are after lapping.

These are both set up the same. 22 inches long toothed 12 ppi set with cross cut rake.

336207336208

This one is 24 inches long and is toothed 10 ppi.

336206

These three are also my first blades that are hammer tensioned. Worked out really well. All three are dead straight and bear no marks of hammering after the surface preparation.

While I was at it I realized that I didn't have a saw set up for inletting the handles for the 0.035" thick blades so I made these up. These are both 13 ppi and have an extreme degree of taper grinding running from 0.035" at the tooth line to 0.025" a the back. Think Disston 77 but smaller.



336205

[hiroller]

At this point I'm doing it by hand. I've gone through a lot of gloves, blood and fingernails learning how to do it without getting hurt. You have to take it easy with the cutting so as to not overheat the steel. Lot's of passes with cooling in between.

Sounds like a fair bit of trial and error. Are you going with or across the grain or both?
Other than pictures of giant stone grinding wheels in the Disston factory, I have no real knowledge of how this was or is done.
I expect that taper formed a key part of the balance between saw hardness and teeth workability in the design and construction of saws.

[Isaac S]

336207336208


These three are also my first blades that are hammer tensioned. Worked out really well. All three are dead straight and bear no marks of hammering after the surface preparation.


Those look good, Rob. Can you talk more about the tensioning. I've been trying to figure out exactly what people mean by that term and how it works, but haven't been able to wrap my mind around it yet.

[rob streeper]

Those look good, Rob. Can you talk more about the tensioning. I've been trying to figure out exactly what people mean by that term and how it works, but haven't been able to wrap my mind around it yet.

Isaac,

I gather that the Disston works used mechanical hammers to work harden the blades followed by some hand work on an anvil to true them up.
In my experiments I have run two lines of hammer strikes, more or less continuously down the length of the blade. I'm using a 5 lb. cross-peen sawyers hammer. The first pattern of strikes I run down the centerline of the blade. The second along the back side of the blade. I have found it fairly easy to control the flexure of the blade. After the hammering I grind the blades to remove the marks. I intend to test the hardness of the hammered areas but just haven't gotten around to it. I will post the results on the hardening thread I'm currently doing battle on.

Cheers,
Rob

[rob streeper]

Sounds like a fair bit of trial and error. Are you going with or across the grain or both?
Other than pictures of giant stone grinding wheels in the Disston factory, I have no real knowledge of how this was or is done.
I expect that taper formed a key part of the balance between saw hardness and teeth workability in the design and construction of saws.
Well, if the grain of the steel is parallel with the long axis of the roll I'm working with the grain. The grind marks on the steel as it comes from the box are also parallel to the long axis of the roll. I'll be getting around to testing the effects of my hammering on the hardness later this week hopefully.

Okay, here's some more heresy. I took one of the pictured blades and my surface hardness tester and using the N30 scale I measured Rc hardnesses of 62, 64 and 64 in the region of the back of one of the pictured blades. I'm really surprised.

[rob streeper]

336779

[Isaac S]

Isaac,

I gather that the Disston works used mechanical hammers to work harden the blades followed by some hand work on an anvil to true them up.
In my experiments I have run two lines of hammer strikes, more or less continuously down the length of the blade. I'm using a 5 lb. cross-peen sawyers hammer. The first pattern of strikes I run down the centerline of the blade. The second along the back side of the blade. I have found it fairly easy to control the flexure of the blade. After the hammering I grind the blades to remove the marks. I intend to test the hardness of the hammered areas but just haven't gotten around to it. I will post the results on the hardening thread I'm currently doing battle on.

Cheers,
Rob

I never heard about the mechanical hammers. Do you happen to remember where you heard that?

What little I have found about Disston and tensioning is rather vague, to say the least. It always sounded like one of those black arts that was handed down from master to apprentice with little, if any, documentation.

I'm curious as to what you wished to accomplish with tensioning. An increase in hardness or yield strength? Changing the stiffness of the blade? Straightening/flattening the blade? Something else (I had another possibility in mind, but can't think of it right now. Stupid, faulty memory...)

How hard and often did you hit the blade? Why along the back of the blade and not along the toothline?

Boy, do I have a lot of questions on this topic. Hope you have lots of time, because I will ask them as long as somebody is there to answer them or talk about it.

[Isaac S]

Okay, here's some more heresy. I took one of the pictured blades and my surface hardness tester and using the N30 scale I measured Rc hardnesses of 62, 64 and 64 in the region of the back of one of the pictured blades. I'm really surprised.

I too am surprised. If I understand this correctly, those measurements were taken where you hammered the blade. Are you getting the same hardness measurement in unhammered regions? If so, and assuming a uniform hardness across the blade, then something doesn't seem to add up; verything I have ever read and experienced says that high carbon steel of that hardness is brittle, not springlike.

[rob streeper]

I never heard about the mechanical hammers. Do you happen to remember where you heard that?

What little I have found about Disston and tensioning is rather vague, to say the least. It always sounded like one of those black arts that was handed down from master to apprentice with little, if any, documentation.

I'm curious as to what you wished to accomplish with tensioning. An increase in hardness or yield strength? Changing the stiffness of the blade? Straightening/flattening the blade? Something else (I had another possibility in mind, but can't think of it right now. Stupid, faulty memory...)

How hard and often did you hit the blade? Why along the back of the blade and not along the toothline?

Boy, do I have a lot of questions on this topic. Hope you have lots of time, because I will ask them as long as somebody is there to answer them or talk about it.

Isaac,

Look here in the second paragraph. http://www.workshopoftheworld.com/tacony/disston.html A statement is made that the blades were subjected to: later steam pressured hammers were used (on the ingots). The process of flattening continued in the rolling mills,... and The next step was "smithing,"—hand-hammering the blade to perfect flatness and subjecting it to several stages of grinding and filing.
This may suggest that Disston saw blades were in fact created by a process we would likely refer to as hammer forging. Forging generally is reckoned to produce stronger and more consolidated material than does casting for instance. The differences between forging and modern rolling mill working may or may not be important, unfortunately we'll never know.
As to the work I'm doing on the blades I am planning a deeper analysis. In a nutshell I'm hammering the blades in a line parallel to the back curve of the blade with overlapping hammer blows from both sides down the centerline of the blade and about 3/4" away from the back edge of the blade. I then grind away the dents producing the plates pictured above. I'll post the results here.

Cheers,
Rob

[rob streeper]

I too am surprised. If I understand this correctly, those measurements were taken where you hammered the blade. Are you getting the same hardness measurement in unhammered regions? If so, and assuming a uniform hardness across the blade, then something doesn't seem to add up; verything I have ever read and experienced says that high carbon steel of that hardness is brittle, not springlike.

I just did a couple of tests. Remembering of course that this blade has been ground and thus heated on the surface at least I'm getting readings in the 59/60 range on the N scale corresponding to 53/54 or so on the C scale.

[hiroller]

I assume that:

Machine tensioning would have been done like here:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/steel-saw-plate.html

Manual tensioning was done like Bob Smalser describes here:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/saw/strSawBlade/strSawBlade1.asp

Interesting how Bob refers to the implied tensioning from using the retoother.

[rob streeper]

I assume that:

Machine tensioning would have been done like here:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/steel-saw-plate.html

Manual tensioning was done like Bob Smalser describes here:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/saw/strSawBlade/strSawBlade1.asp

Interesting how Bob refers to the implied tensioning from using the retoother.

Thanks for the links. Very interesting. I'm not going to set up a rolling mill but I have anvils and hammers.

[planemaker]

tensioning the saw plate;

British Saws & Saw Makers from c1660; Simon Barley; published: Oct. 2014; Chapter 1; page 16; Making a saw; Smithing;

The saw plate might at this stage to the uneducated eye look flat, but it contained multiple and almost invisible irregularities which the trade called "fast and loose". These were corrected with a saw makers hammer that had two faces at right angles to one another and which produced the marks shown in Figure 1.14. The sheet also had to be hammered to produce stretching of the edge and hence "tension", in order to increase its ability to return to straightness when bent. Flatness and tensioning were achieved by the smith's hammering in one place after another, and on both sides, constantly checking for the right result using a saw makers straightedge (Figure 1.13), a strip of steel with a fractional concave edge.

The book details "tensioning the saw plate" as being only at stage 6 of the whole process. Stage 9 discusses Stiffening the saw plate;

Although there is no mention of this stage in the statement of prices, it appears to have always been part of the manufacturing process in the Sheffield saw industry. It involved heating the saw plate up to a fairly cool red heat, thereby restoring the flexibility that had been diminished by rubbing and blocking. There are indications in one manufacturers advertising material from the 1970s that stiffening was reserved for the best of their four qualities of handsaw. A stiffening trough was also referred to in the Wilson saw stock inventory of 1774, but there is no other information to enable us to know how or what stage it might have been used at that time. In an account of saw manufacturing at Spear & Jackson's works in 1861, stiffening was described as coming after setting.

[rob streeper]

I have three Disston hand saws that are in pretty fair condition. I decided to map the thickness profile of each saw plate. I measured at half inch increments from the gullets of the teeth up to the increment below the spine every two inches down the length of the plate. I color coded the results, each adjacent band is different by 0.001". I deleted the numbers for clarity.

337252

I found the results surprising as it appears that Disston may have tapered the area under the handles too.

[rob streeper]

Here's the profile for the plate I'm working on in this thread. I didn't grind in the handle area.337253
I ground this profile based on the information on the Internet concerning the taper grinding profiles created by Disston. Those sources show that the grinding was conducted along the spine of the blade from the toe back to the front edge of the handle. The true profile of my three Disston saws is interesting in that it shows they were ground at the heel of the plate under and around the handle area as well.

[pmcgee]

What period are the Disstons from? Photos of them might be handy.

also, if the thickness isn't constant along the toothline, then presumably not all of the original plate remains.

Lastly, I don't know your legend for colour vs thickness.

Cheers,
Paul

[rob streeper]

What period are the Disstons from? Photos of them might be handy.

Here they are.

337466


337467


337468


[/QUOTE]also, if the thickness isn't constant along the toothline, then presumably not all of the original plate remains.[/QUOTE]

I know, I started measuring at ~1/2" above the gullets. The D-8 rip saw has the tallest plate and has a '66' stamp under the handle and the steel there shines like it is chromed.

[/QUOTE]Lastly, I don't know your legend for colour vs thickness.[/QUOTE]

Dark brown is the thickest, light brown is 0.001" thinner and so on. The maximum amount of taper was no more than about 0.005" to 0.007" on these saws from thickest to thinnest.

They were not hollow ground. If anything they are a little convex in profile.


Cheers,
Rob

[pmcgee]

Thanks. Technically the thumbhole is a "D8" and the others are as you said D-8 and D-7.

The others are maybe from the 40s/50s? are they aluminium medallions? The blocky handles indicate a modernish date.

I can't see the medallion of the thumbhole ... maybe it's 1928-40 date?

x Sorry. Checked my info ... hyphens after 1928 ... and the D8 etch puts it in 1910-28. The medallion would narrow that down to either pre or post 1918.

Are all the toothlines straight? sometimes they will be breasted a little.

Cheers,
Paul

[pmcgee]

My apologies. I obviously just invented that distinction for myself, or read it somewhere and adopted it.

They are all officially "D-x"

So there's the thumbhole pre 1928, the other D-8 (brass medallion) 1928-40, and the aluminium one is 1940s.

Move along, nothing to see here. :doh:

Paul

[rob streeper]

My apologies. I obviously just invented that distinction for myself, or read it somewhere and adopted it.

They are all officially "D-x"

So there's the thumbhole pre 1928, the other D-8 (brass medallion) 1928-40, and the aluminium one is 1940s.

Move along, nothing to see here. :doh:

Paul

The D-7 screws and medallions are plated brass. Not sure what they're plated with as it doesn't look like chrome. Maybe transplants from another saw?

[pmcgee]

The D-7 screws and medallions are plated brass. Not sure what they're plated with as it doesn't look like chrome. Maybe transplants from another saw?
Nickel.

[rob streeper]

Paul,

On the Disstonian page for D-7's some of the reproduced catalog listings refer to the saws as having 'striped back'. Do you know what is meant by that?

The medallion on the D-7 is a USA type suggesting post war manufacture. However the Disstonian site says

"Saws from the late 1940's and early 1950's had this medallion with sloppy execution. Its perimeter is wide. D-8's and D-12's were nickel-plated; D-7's were the same style, but not plated."

So maybe somebody changed them.

[pmcgee]

It could be similar to the Atkins "ribbon back" ... a polished strip along the back ... bit of a sales gimmick basically I think.


http://www.wkfinetools.com/hUS-saws/Atkins/tools/dWeir-1907s-ECAtkins400-26/0_img/scan0003.jpg

[rob streeper]

It could be similar to the Atkins "ribbon back" ... a polished strip along the back ... bit of a sales gimmick basically I think.


http://www.wkfinetools.com/hUS-saws/Atkins/tools/dWeir-1907s-ECAtkins400-26/0_img/scan0003.jpg

Given my hardness measurements on these saws considered in light of the hammering experiment I just did I wonder if they refer to 'stripes' of hammer hardening down the length of the blade. It would make perfect sense.

[rob streeper]

I'm finally getting back to working on saw stuff and picked up with this one as it's the farthest along, too bad nobody will love it since it's just a D-8 copy.

The handle is roughed-in and the saw plate has been ground, hammer tensioned, lapped and cryotreated. Now it's time to decide on screws. Three medium screws and a medallion looks kind of busy.

344299


Two medium screws look kind of lost even in the company of a medallion.


344302

Two large screws and the medallion look better but which way to set them. Medallion on the bottom?

344301


Or in the middle?


344300


While pondering this earth-stopping quandary I heard a loud buzzing. After quickly dismissing the thought that I was finally being called to account for my many sins I looked around and found this.

344304

This beast is an eyed elater, it's about 3.5 cm long , the largest click-bug in North America.

[pmcgee]

Disston tended to use a smaller first bolt ... I always wondered why ... probably exactly this, I guess.


What about ... (I know your handle is inset, but ...)

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/16page/no16b.jpg


Hard to judge from close-up pictures IMHO ...

[planemaker]

Hi Rob. 3 saw bolt assemblies looks the go. I doubt the 4th assembly would be able to pick up any of the saw plate. Not sure about the look of the bottom rail to cheek connection. The additional complexity of taper grinding the saw plate would scare off most other saw makers. You deserve a lot of kudos. http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/actions/2thumbsup.gif

Look forward to viewing the completed hand saw.

regards Stewie;

[rob streeper]

I worked more on this saw today between other tasks adjusting the hang angle and blade inletting. Here is a comparison of old and new.

344380

I like the medallion in the middle and three medium head screws. Abdul is less than interested.

344379

Now for the stamp for the medallion. I talked with my jeweler friend today and he said he would press the vendor to finish my quotation.

Stewie, did you receive yours yet?

[planemaker]

Hi Rob. Not yet. I delayed the order with the stamp until I got around to purchasing a 10 tonne hydraulic press. The press arrived yesterday, so I have set it ready for use when I get the time.

Stewie;

[rob streeper]

Somehow I managed to squeeze in some work on this saw today - this is turning out to be an extremely busy spring for me.

First the configuration of the screws. I settled on the distribution pattern of the D-8 discussed above and the question now is which size.

Medium

344843

or large?

344842


I decided to go with the large ones because the topmost screw looked a little lost in that relatively broad area of the handle. I set this handle up with the stainless bushings to ensure a positive and durable lock-up between the stock and the blade.

344839


A few minutes later and we have the screws in.

344840


344841

Now for detailing and finish application.

When I get my saws to this stage I start testing them. I sharpened and set this saw and gave it a try. It took some adjusting to get the set correct so that it tracked straight. While making test cuts I noticed that this saw did not have the harmonic oscillation that causes the tip of the blade to ring that so many Disston saws have. Does anybody know if this tip-ringing phenomenon has a name? I've always found the ringing of some Disstons to be extremely annoying in use. The Disston is sharpened and pitched to the same specification as my D-8. (15o -> 10o progressive rake, 15o fleam, 5o bevel and 12 tpi)

This one works better overall in my hand and it cuts about 20% faster than does the Disston.

I also pulled the blade around 180o (bent it in a U shape back toward the handle) and let it snap back - no residual distortion in either direction.

[pmcgee]

While making test cuts I noticed that this saw did not have the harmonic oscillation that causes the tip of the blade to ring that so many Disston saws have. Does anybody know if this tip-ringing phenomenon has a name? I've always found the ringing of some Disstons to be extremely annoying in use. The Disston is sharpened and pitched to the same specification as my D-8. (15o -> 10o progressive rake, 15o fleam, 5o bevel and 12 tpi)


I have a few ideas. Is the tip of the Disston any thinner than yours? Some of them get very thin right at the toe-top.

I've found that the "inefficient" sounds vary with how I hold my hand and arm.
My hand can be rotated a little CW or CCW out of vertical ... and sometimes the direction I'm holding is not directly along the line of the saw ... so tiny adjustments make a difference to the sound and any"flapping".

So ... I wonder, even if the blades were identical in thickness profile if, being newer, yours has more stiffness/less flexibility or "flop" to it?

I wonder if there can be changes along the "grain" of the metal with time and use?
Or if it is directly related to the "grain" of the metal.

Cheers,
Paul

[rob streeper]

Here's some photo's of the bend test.

344906


344907


344905

[rob streeper]

I have a few ideas. Is the tip of the Disston any thinner than yours? Some of them get very thin right at the toe-top.

I've found that the "inefficient" sounds vary with how I hold my hand and arm.
My hand can be rotated a little CW or CCW out of vertical ... and sometimes the direction I'm holding is not directly along the line of the saw ... so tiny adjustments make a difference to the sound and any"flapping".

So ... I wonder, even if the blades were identical in thickness profile if, being newer, yours has more stiffness/less flexibility or "flop" to it?

I wonder if there can be changes along the "grain" of the metal with time and use?
Or if it is directly related to the "grain" of the metal.

Cheers,
Paul

Hi Paul,

The grind profile of the D-8 is very similar to my saw. I'm wondering if the early references to 'fast and loose' in the literature discussing hammer tensioning are in fact discussing this effect.

Cheers,
Rob

[planemaker]

hi Rob. That last photo that shows the line of the saw plate after its been flexed in both directions. Does that concern you.

regards Stewie;

[rob streeper]

hi Rob. That last photo that shows the line of the saw plate after its been flexed in both directions. Does that concern you.

regards Stewie;

Hard to take a good photo with the iPhone. Looking at the saw in person I can see the blade is straight. I'll try to get a better photo, the skew back accentuates the appearance of non-linearity if the centroid of the focal area is less than perfectly aligned with the long axis of the blade. Here, this is somewhat better.

345006

[planemaker]

Thanks Rob. That looks much better.

Stewie;

[rob streeper]

I've been experimenting with hot finishes too. Here's the handle after three coats. This is shellac/beeswax/BLO.

345216

[Simplicity]

A little bit more information pleassseee Sir
(On the hot finishes)

[rob streeper]

Here's the current recipe:

~100 ml turpentine + ~100 ml BLO + 1 button of shellac + 30 gm beeswax. Mix together in a glass jar, place the jar in a pan of boiling water until wax is dissolved - careful of fire safety of course and don't screw the lid down or the jar might explode. Take the pan containing the water and the bottle of finish to your workstation. Wait until the finish cools enough to be comfortable to handle and wipe on with a rag or paper towel. Allow the finish on the handle to cool and buff with a soft cloth. A couple of coats will generally do. When the finish solution is too cool to use the wax forms a fluffy yellow precipitate - boil in water again to re-use.

[planemaker]

Hi Rob. Gum Turpentine is recommended for use when making your own paste wax mix. Read the safety instructions if using GT.

Stewie;

[rob streeper]

Hi Rob. Gum Turpentine is recommended for use when making your own paste wax mix. Read the safety instructions if using GT.

Stewie;

Hi Stewie,

When my mix cools to room temperature it looks and behaves much like the uBeaut Shellawax I have. Heating it appears to increase the penetration into the surface and over time I think that some polymerization occurs because the color gradually darkens. Great for darker woods.

Cheers,
Rob

[Simplicity]

Thanks Rob
Will have to give it a go one day soon

[rob streeper]

Thanks Rob
Will have to give it a go one day soon

If somebody get's they're eye put out (or house burnt down) I don't know nuthin.

[Simplicity]

Fair call then (don't panic the creative zone is all steel its a shipping container) [emoji1]

[Bushmiller]

Rob

An excellent and very ambitious project. watching now with interest.

Regards
Paul

[planemaker]

Hi Rob. Not sure why. Possibly the personal challenge of doing so. But on my next backsaw I am going to extend the heel of the saw plate half way down the bottom rail of the handle, very much like the D8 handsaw; A traditional lambs tongue will also be included on the jarrah handle . The template for the heel wrap has already been cut out ready to scribe onto the saw plate. The handle is still in its early stages of shaping. The 0.020 saw plate will be 20" x 3" below the spine. 11 tpi sounds about right. No early photo's planned for this backsaw build.

regards Stewie;

[planemaker]

Hi Rob. Not yet. I delayed the order with the stamp until I got around to purchasing a 10 tonne hydraulic press. The press arrived yesterday, so I have set it ready for use when I get the time.

Stewie;



Hi Rob. The 10 tone press is assembled ready for use. CHALCO have also commenced work on the makers stamp.

19mm (3/4") brass back;

----------------------------------------
5mm
---------------------------------------
text (larger Arial font size) TOTE TOOL CO
9mm
text (smaller Arial font size) AUSTRALIA
------------------------------------
5mm
----------------------------------


Stewie;

[rob streeper]

Hi Rob. The 10 tone press is assembled ready for use. CHALCO have also commenced work on the makers stamp.

19mm (3/4") brass back;

----------------------------------------
5mm
---------------------------------------
text (larger Arial font size) TOTE TOOL CO
9mm
text (smaller Arial font size) AUSTRALIA
------------------------------------
5mm
----------------------------------


Stewie;

Hi Stewie,

I just spoke with my jewelry designer contact. He is still pushing on getting me a quote. Mine is to be used for marking the medallions.

Cheers,
Rob

[rob streeper]

Unfortunately I can't upload any pictures of the finished product. Perhaps when the server issue gets worked out and I no longer have to log on using/through TOR.

[planemaker]

Hi Rob. Be nice to see some Texas Longhorns on your medallion.

Stewie;

[rob streeper]

Regular access is now working for me. Here's some pictures.346391346392

[planemaker]

Very nice work Rob. Question for you. The rows of spot marks on the saw plate. Did you do some hardness testing on that saw plate.

Stewie;

[rob streeper]

Very nice work Rob. Question for you. The rows of spot marks on the saw plate. Did you do some hardness testing on that saw plate.

Stewie;

Thanks Stewie. Yes this is the D-8 plate that I did all of the hardness testing and thickness measurements on. I plan on engraving it and assigning it a serial number but it will stay with me as my first-of-type.

I have pictures of the two completed gentleman's No. 8 saws too but because of Internet connectivity issues I can't post them yet.

Cheers,
Rob

[rob streeper]

Got another one of these 90% done today but as my Internet connection is still conspipated I can't put any pictures.:((

[rob streeper]

Got another one of these 90% done today but as my Internet connection is still conspipated I can't put any pictures.:((

Finished this one, sweet saw. 21.25" blade length, Argentine lignum vitae handle, crosscut with 20o fleam and 12o rake, taper ground and so on. When the forum is accessible again I'll post some pictures.

Started two more of these today with Peruvian walnut handles. I'm thinking an 8 point rip with a 10 point crosscut. Got the blades inletted and the majority of the handle shaping finished today. Next to vacuum infuse and set the screws.

[rob streeper]

Some pictures.346973346972346974

[planemaker]

:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[rob streeper]

I had the three saws featured in this thread engraved today.

First the prototype:

347272

The first production saw:

347271


And finally the saw I made to make these saws that was described above.


347273

[rob streeper]

Here's some better pictures showing the markings.

347328

347327