Sunbeam dehydrator

[Petethebutcher]

Hi Guys,
My first post in this section.
I loaned my dehydrator (food dryer etc) and the inevitable happened, it came home not working (why does loaning equipment cause so much pain)http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/anoyd.gif
On dismantling I find the unit has had a hard knock which has broken the mounting pins off the coil plate allowing the coil plate to stall the fan/motor. Some small damage that can be repaired,however coil or motor will not run. There is a small electric component mounted between the active and load. I think it is a resistor but it is a little too fried to read the color bands.
When I jump this component both motor and coil work http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/sad/shock.gif but I have been reluctant to allow it to run for more then a few seconds in case I burn every thing out.http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/no.gif
Can anyone tell me: 1) if this is a resistor
2) If so what value it is
3) Is it really needed



Your help would be much appreiated

Cheers
Peter

[NCArcher]

A picture would help, but it may be an inline fuseable link. Designed to blow when the motor draws too much current (like from a stall from having a piece wedged against it) to prevent damage to the motor.
I'm assuming it's a 240V unit.

[Petethebutcher]

[QUOTE=NCArcher;1843549]A picture would help,

I will see what I can do regards the picture. Yes it is 240 mains powered.
A brief description of wiring.
One branch of the neutral goes direct to motor and another, the black wire seen in photo 4, to the adjustable bi-metal temp switch. From the top side of the switch the black wire hooks to the end of the heating element.
The red active goes direct to the right hand end of troublesome component and then a white wire goes from the lefthand end to motor.The element is also connected to the left hand end of component. There is no control or switch on motor and element is controlled by adjustable bi-metal contacts.
Hope this makes sense.
Peter

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=339711&stc=1http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=339712&stc=1http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=339713&stc=1http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=339714&stc=1

[NCArcher]

Yep, fusible link.
It looks like it's designed to just replace the element c/w new fusible link.
You can try to replace the link (you have to use heat sinks if soldering as the link appears to be rated at 117°) or you can cut the old one out and crimp to the tails if you have the appropriate crimpers.

[Petethebutcher]

Thanks Archer you are a god send.http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/actions/2thumbsup.gif
But how do know its 117 deg?
Where might I get a replacement, Jay car, Dick smith?
If I solder it in protecting the link with sinks do you think the solder will last in that environment?

[ It looks like it's designed to just replace the element c/w new fusible link.]

I don't think this piece of equipment was ever designed for people like you and I (or anybody else for that matter) to pull apart and repair however I was born before the throw away society evolved and have to save what I can,

cheers

Peter

[snowyskiesau]

Jaycar (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?whichpage=1&pagesize=10&w=&MID=1&SUBCATID=969&SSUBID=655&form=CAT2#1) do list these but not at 117°
Another source is Element14 (http://au.element14.com/nte-electronics/nte8115/fuse-thermal-117-c-15a-277v/dp/4785307?MER=MER-BPR-4PPM-PD-RECOMMENDATIONS-GEN&).

The last time I needed one of these for a coffee maker (actually a resettable version), I got it from a local appliance repair place.

What's the state of the heater coil where those burn marks are?

[NCArcher]

But how do know its 117 deg?
Where might I get a replacement, Jay car, Dick smith?

the number 117 on the side.
I think soldering would be ok. Solder melts at above 185° so the link will open well before the solder gives way.
Dick Smith no longer sell components.
The fan may not work if the element is open circuit as well. It doesn't look too flash.
To be honest, i'd just get another dehydrator. Or ask whoever broke it to get one.

[Petethebutcher]

Thanks guys for the helphttp://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/actions/2thumbsup.gifhttp://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/actions/2thumbsup.gifhttp://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/actions/2thumbsup.gif. I will pursue this repair for a while longer since replacement value is around $300. The element works and looks fine, the burn marks are where it made contact with the plastic fan after the fan was stopped.

Cheers

Peter

[dinosour]

You will need to be careful if you replace the thermal by soldering, it is as it says a themal fuse and if rating temperature is exceeded it will go open circuit..
Having said that if you cut out the old fuse a put the replacement in the middle if the two ends, with one help it should be ok. Best way is to have a helper hold the wire part with a pair of long nose pliers, close to the joint ( will act as a heat sink) use a small soldering iron, do the joint one at a time and cool the joint with a wet rag, repeat other end.
good luck.
the more of these issues I read about the more I believe my grandad was correct " never be a brower or lender of tools"
good luck with the repair.
if you do end up with a replacement keep the old one for those who insist on borrowing.