Turning pens on big lathe

[Bodgy]

Looking at last thread, is the collective wisdom saying that one can turn pens on a 'normal' lathe. Mine is a relatively cheap model, takes around max 1200 length stock. If I buy a chuck mechanism (mine only has the pointy thing on the motor end currently) can delicate things like pens be turned on this fairly gross equipment?

Also, looking at the pen bits and pieces suppliers, they only seem to offer fittings for the skinny type pens. I would like to turn big fat ones, sort of cigar shaped like the classic Mont Blanc. All the examples of fat pens (from the Web pages of turning material suppliers) seem to have skinny waists and end up looking like an 8. Seems to be due to the available metal ring on mouth of cap being too small for my design.

Any advice welcome.

Bodgy

[steve900]

have you been to this site, most site are overseas
http://www.nesales.com/tools/pen_kits.htm

i think i will have fun trying to turn for the first time , must have plenty of bandaids about lol

[Bodgy]

Thanks Steve, went to the web site but I should have mentioned that I want to make fountain pens, not ball points. The fat kit they display is only a ball point option, and whilst they call it a 'cigar' its more of a panatella whereas I want to make Winston Churchills.

I'm sure the kits exist and someone will point me in the direction. No hurry tho cause I thought the pens would be nice pressies for Xmas. (05 that is)

Good luck with the turning, I hadn't done it since carpentry at school. It only took me five minutes and I was buggerring up innocent bits of wood, just like before. Still haven't really worked out the correct lathe rotation speed for each job, but I guess thats just practice. Suggest you wear real good eye protection tho.

Bodgy

[HiString]

I've just started out turning............what I did at school decades ago is better forgotten............anyways, I have a Teknatool Nova 3000 and the only problem I have found when turning pens is that with the tailstock up supporting the pen mandrel, there isn't sufficient room for the tool rest to be brought in too close to the work piece, consequently, I'm looking to make a shorter tool rest for working with small/short items.

Depending on which lathe you have, it probably has a hollow spindle with a morse taper which is holding the centre (the pointy thing), this should be able to be removed and a suitable pen mandrel fitted in it's place.

:cool:

[gatiep]

I've just started out turning............what I did at school decades ago is better forgotten............anyways, I have a Teknatool Nova 3000 and the only problem I have found when turning pens is that with the tailstock up supporting the pen mandrel, there isn't sufficient room for the tool rest to be brought in too close to the work piece, consequently, I'm looking to make a shorter tool rest for working with small/short items.

Depending on which lathe you have, it probably has a hollow spindle with a morse taper which is holding the centre (the pointy thing), this should be able to be removed and a suitable pen mandrel fitted in it's place.

:cool:

How about turning the tailstock quill out far enough to allow the larger toolrest to fit. I posted that advice on here long ago when Smidsy had the same problem.
:confused:



A lathe with a #1 or #2 Morse taper is more suitable for turning pens as mandrels use either a MT fitting or push into a drill chuck mounted on the headstock side. It will not be impossible to have a mandrel made for a solid headstock lathe but could be costly. All serious lathes have hollow head and tailstocks and it is one of the primary requirements when choosing a lathe.

The lathe size does not preclude one from turning pens. A high spindle speed is necessary as the blank diameter is pretty small. On lathe speeds, the bigger the blank the slower, the smaller the faster. At about 75 mm diameter the lathe can be run flat out, provided the blank is secured properly offcourse.

*****If the speed seems dangerous to you.....treat it as such......slow it down!*****

[HiString]

QUOTE........."How about turning the tailstock quill out far enough to allow the larger toolrest to fit. I posted that advice on here long ago when Smidsy had the same problem."


Now why didn't I think of that........lmao. Maybe because I'm a newbie and just finished my first pen.

Thanks Joe.

[Bodgy]

Good point regarding the rest, on my lathe it is around 10" wide and would preclude turning anything less than that long and skinny. My lathe's construction is fairly agricultural, so no problem getting a bit of steel rod and welding up a narrower cross piece for a new rest.

I guess my remaining concern would be for the state of the bearings, ie are they sufficiently tight for such delicate work. Only way to find out is to try. Have given the lathe a beating, recently turned down the tops of ten 4x4 fence posts to make decorative caps for a mate's pool house. Lathe only cost less than $200 in the first place, although along with my 'never pay retail' purchasing policy was probably listed at well over $300.

We'll see what happens

Most of my time at school is also best forgotten, excepting a brief encounter with the gym mistress behind the cricket sheds.

Bodgy

[Bodgy]

How about turning the tailstock quill out far enough to allow the larger toolrest to fit. I posted that advice on here long ago when Smidsy had the same problem.
:confused:



A lathe with a #1 or #2 Morse taper is more suitable for turning pens as mandrels use either a MT fitting or push into a drill chuck mounted on the headstock side. It will not be impossible to have a mandrel made for a solid headstock lathe but could be costly. All serious lathes have hollow head and tailstocks and it is one of the primary requirements when choosing a lathe.

The lathe size does not preclude one from turning pens. A high spindle speed is necessary as the blank diameter is pretty small. On lathe speeds, the bigger the blank the slower, the smaller the faster. At about 75 mm diameter the lathe can be run flat out, provided the blank is secured properly offcourse.

*****If the speed seems dangerous to you.....treat it as such......slow it down!*****
The hours of pointless endeavour this forum has saved me. Good thinking re extending the tailstock. Seems so bloody obvious now you mention it.

Thanks for the advice on turning speeds too. I'll check the type of head stock over the w/e. Prefer the idea of getting a drill chuck for the head, as this could be used for other things too.

Bodgy

[HiString]

Bodgy,

This site has a fairly clear explanation of pen turning along with pics (that can be enlarged..............http://www.davehylands.com/Wood-Working/Making-Pens/

A quick check showed that my t/stock quill is just about to fall out by the time I've made enough room for the toolrest, anyways, I'll try gatiep's suggestion later and keep my fingers crossed.

:cool:

[gatiep]

Bodgy,

This site has a fairly clear explanation of pen turning along with pics (that can be enlarged..............http://www.davehylands.com/Wood-Working/Making-Pens/

A quick check showed that my t/stock quill is just about to fall out by the time I've made enough room for the toolrest, anyways, I'll try gatiep's suggestion later and keep my fingers crossed.

:cool:
Shorten the toolrest by 25 mm if the tailstock is a concern. Most toolrests are around 300 mm long and you'd hardly miss the 25 mm, because if it is too short at 275 it will be too short at 300 most of the time.

Bodgy
Long before you notice the bearings running out they'll make a noise that you cannot ignore. I would be very worried about using a lathe that cannot handle what you were turning. The tool takes more hammering than the bearings. 4x4 fence posts will be about the limit of the $69-00 lathes if you are brave, however those lathes will fly appart at the seems long before the bearings kark it.

[Bodgy]

Gatiep - $69-00 lathes ????????????????????

A $300+ lathe, bought for $160+ in a consumer coup, if you don't mind!

I may be easy but I ain't cheap!

Bodgy

[RETIRED]

We have turned miniature goblets on this sucker.

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/woodstuf.htmand look under Robbos big job.

[gatiep]

Gatiep - $69-00 lathes ????????????????????

A $300+ lathe, bought for $160+ in a consumer coup, if you don't mind!

I may be easy but I ain't cheap!

BodgyRead my post again, nowhere did I say that you have a $69-00 lathe. I made a statement that 4 x 4 would be about the limit on the $69-00 lathes, however the fact that you are concerned about the bearings of your lathe after turning 4 x 4 blank does worry me....just a little bit! LMAO :D :D :D

Have a little faith in your lathe!

Have a good one

[Bodgy]

Joe

Just stirring you up.

I'm sure the lathe is better than I am.

Bodgy

[gatiep]

:D :D :D

[Captain Chaos]

G'day , Just checked out your " big Job" lathe set up. Looks like a cut lunch & waterbag job to me!
Did you have any problems with the timber whipping or flexing as you were turning?
Keep on turning,
Barry.

[RETIRED]

A little but big steadies helped.

[Bodgy]

Finally found the Mont Blanc type kits in Fountain pen configuration, that I've been chasing. US web site - HUT Products.

Got to the order form and:

NOTE: All orders outside of North America must be over $250.00!
One wonders why the Seppos are unpopular overseas.

Bodgy

[rbjozzia]

Bodgy

I turn pens on a full sized Omega Stubby lathe and use a big roughing gouge to do it, but I have a titchy rest that just fits. BTW and I have said it before: Vic Wood has a unique mandrel either M1 or M2 which is worth checking out.

Rob