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Luke Maddux
19th March 2015, 12:44 AM
I've recently decided to have a go at making my own tool handles, and maybe even a couple of my own tools.

Any suggestions on where to buy various sizes of brass ferrules for reasonable prices?

Cheers,
Luke

nz_carver
19th March 2015, 12:50 AM
Bunnings buy copper pipe and cut it down mate

issatree
19th March 2015, 01:33 AM
Hi Luke,
There are other ways than Brass.
Quite often use Allum. Chairs, 1in. inside cut up for Ferrules. Polish up with 0000 Steel Wool, & they come up well.
I also use the Chrome Plated Towel Rack Pipe, approx 3/4in. inside.
They can both be Turned with you Woodturning Tools.
I just bought a small Pipe Cutter, where you go round & round the Pipe, $7. So then you can cut to whatever length you want.

Larry M
19th March 2015, 01:42 AM
Hi LukeI have used the ferrules from McJing. They are stronger than copper tube and a good price.https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowser.aspx?categoryid=664Cheers Larry

BobL
19th March 2015, 06:06 AM
Even though I have a MW lathe and can make my own, plumbing fittings in any hardware are usually my first port of call.

For small ferrules look for something called "Olives" they come in both brass and copper. 15 and 20mm

For larger/chunkier sizes the brass plumbing fittings themselves can be used. The corners of the hex nuts can be removed on a WW lathe to leave a smooth round finish.
You can leave the internal threads on then or remove the threads on a WW lathe
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=70764&stc=1&d=1207548231

Cliff Rogers
19th March 2015, 07:14 AM
Make your own. :2tsup:

Christos
19th March 2015, 07:54 AM
in the past I have picked up a tube of aluminium pipe from the curb side collection. I was using a a hacksaw to cut out but not always a straight cut. So ended up with a pipe cutter to help in that process.

Ari2
19th March 2015, 07:59 AM
I've used brass ones supplied with some woodturning steels that I recently purchased from Flindersia. Also I have made them from offcuts of shower components..the pipes that the shower rose attached to that allows it to be set at different heights. But I guess you could use any metal pipe.

Or you could buy them from woodwork suppliers.

Big Shed
19th March 2015, 08:09 AM
I used to buy them from The Woodsmith in Croydon when they were still open on a Friday, but now they are mail order only I believe.

Drop them a line and ask perhaps?

http://www.thewoodsmith.com.au/thewoodsmith/

dogcatcher
19th March 2015, 08:32 AM
I use PVC pipe, cheap and easily worked. If you want, you can even polish them up and they look like ivory. I make them to press fit, the glue and pin in place with 1/8" diameter brass pins.

orraloon
19th March 2015, 02:01 PM
Anything tubelike and metal. Copper, brass and aluminum will cut on the lathe with a small scraper then sand and polish. Steel pipe you can work on a wood lathe with a file then sand ect. As others have said get a small tube cutter. I am always on the lookout for stuff I can recycle. I also use the old ferrules when I do a rehandle job on a chisel. They polish up like new on the lathe.
PVC is a new one on me but now the idea is planted I may try it.
Regards
John

Sawdust Maker
19th March 2015, 03:26 PM
pick up some brass tube from your local metal merchant and make your own

turnerted
19th March 2015, 03:53 PM
I use aluminium tubing from an old vacuum cleaner.
Ted

Fuzzie
19th March 2015, 05:26 PM
I found a good source for thin brass 1/2" size - an old adjustable shower head arm. These are harder and thinner than 1/2 copper plumbing pipe and a light sand should get rid of the chrome. I'm keeping a lookout for something similar in 3/4". I think some of the really old towel rails might be brass, but I haven't had any luck yet. Some old brass light fixtures might be OK.

Luke Maddux
19th March 2015, 06:05 PM
Cheers everyone! I hadn't even thought about buying pipe/conduit and making my own.

Mobyturns
27th March 2015, 07:48 AM
Luke and any others with English origin wood turning tools - check your ferrules.

I have seen a very significant proportion of handled tools purchased in the past ten years with cracked ferrules. It does not seem to matter where the tools are in NZ, Melbourne, Brisbane, Townsville, dry climes or the wetter parts of FNQ, they crack. The "brass" used in their manufacture is of an inferior quality and very grainy - quite visible to the naked eye in fact. The crack starts at the "V" punch mark used to retain the ferrules on the handle. I have taken this up with the manufacturer who says it only happens to a very small proportion of tools (BS in my opinion) and is happy to replace them free of charge. So you know who to contact.

I like the ferrules supplied with P&N tools and personally I use "straight copper capillary couplings" cut into two ferrules. Available at the green shed in 15, 20 & 25 mm and larger if you go to specialist trade suppliers.

343038

Fuzzie
27th March 2015, 08:41 AM
I have seen a very significant proportion of handled tools purchased in the past ten years with cracked ferrules.

Not just the last few years. I have a much older Marples/Shamrock bench chisel with a ferrule also split at the punch point. When did they start punching ferrules to make up for sloppy production fit?

skot
27th March 2015, 08:49 AM
I went to my local plumbing supplier and he had damaged (bent length) copper pipe out the back that he couldn't sell...so I got it for $2 for a 3m length of copper pipe.

Paul39
27th March 2015, 08:54 AM
I have used, all from the scrap pile, copper tubing, heavy brass under sink tubing, chain link fence post and top rail, electrical metallic tubing, chrome plated steel tubing for towel rack.

For cutting the steel, I chuck a wood cone in the headstock end, and use a cone tail center. I make a grooves with a metal cutting carbide tool (high speed steel would do as well). then running slowly use a hack saw until I am almost through or it comes through in a place or two.

I take the pipe out of the lathe and cut through with the hack saw. I cut the inside burrs off with a stout knife, and run the ends of ferrule around and around on a piece of sand paper stuck to a piece of plywood.

I rough up the inside of the ferrule with100 grit and glue it on to the tool handle. The next day I put the handle on the lathe and sand the ferrule with 220 grit and round off the nose. I leave a step on the handle for the ferrule to butt against. I finish the handle and ferrule with Tung oil. I drill the hole for the tool, rough the part of the tool going in the handle with sandpaper and epoxy it in. If it is a bit loose I pack in sanding dust and epoxy.

Photo of ferrule on 5/8 bowl gouge on a long fat handle. It is the last one in the group photo.

Evanism
28th March 2015, 03:58 PM
I was thinking of making some "ferrules" with thin copper wire stripped from a power cable or old extension cord.

Mount the chisel in the lathe and then on slow, wind the wire very tightly and neatly from top the bottom a couple of times. Epoxy or CA the whole lot in place and smooth when dry.

What do you think?

joe greiner
29th March 2015, 02:46 PM
Stranded wire from a power cable or extension cord is very, very, thin. Might be difficult to wind in several layers. Even so, if you want to try it, I suggest winding from the bottom, to the top, and back to the bottom (or any even number of winds), so that you don't have a free strand at the outer end. Epoxy better than CA.

Cheers,
Joe

chuck1
29th March 2015, 10:24 PM
I buy them and make them cws and mcjings. Cws seems better. And l bought a pipe cutter for abit $10 for salvaged pipe.
Also have some stainless ones in stock, I got our metal worker to cut them up for me the good lad he is.

Christos
2nd April 2015, 09:21 PM
I was thinking of making some "ferrules" with thin copper wire stripped from a power cable or old extension cord.

Mount the chisel in the lathe and then on slow, wind the wire very tightly and neatly from top the bottom a couple of times. Epoxy or CA the whole lot in place and smooth when dry.

What do you think?


The process you are describing is what is used when adding a guide(runners) to a fishing rod. The epoxy for the runners for coating the binding might be more flexible then the one used in furniture building but I am only guessing.

Mobyturns
3rd April 2015, 09:19 AM
This link make be of interest - Doc Green - "Ferrule for Tool Handle" - http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/ferrule.html


When making wood turning tool handles you should keep in mind the ferrule is an important safety feature in the design of the handle as is the length of the handle, the diameter of the stock handle material, the amount of "meat" or wood surrounding the tang of the tool, the mass of the handle, and the penetration depth of the tool tang. Many commercial wooden tool handles, particularly those supplied with large scrapers are not "fit for purpose" in my opinion as they have insufficient timber between tool tang & ferrule.


Ferrules on hand chisels and carving tools are used to prevent the tool handle (wood or composite) from splitting in use from the constant tapping from a mallet or the leverage applied to carving tools. Ferrules generally increase the longevity of the handle many fold.


Ferrules on wood turning tool handles are also used to prevent splitting of the tool handle however the application is vastly different to hand wood working chisels. Much larger forces are potentially at play* due to the increased leverage forces applied by the turner to resist the torque forces applied to the tool by the spinning lathe. The strength of the timber and length of the tool handle required to resist/transmit those forces is proportional to the forces applied. More tool overhang past the tool rest = more force, changing diameter = changing forces, more lathe HP = more effort from the turner. A longer handle and appropriate technique requires less force/effort from the turner but is limited by its practicality in use. Partly why we see a shift away from "arm brace" style hollowing systems to long captured boring bar systems for deep hollowing - less hazardous, less risk & fewer injuries.


If you look through the history of wood turning you will see various recommendations on tool handle length depending upon the style of wood turning, very short handles and even "one handed" handles in use for small delicate finials and ivory turning to typically 200 to 250 mm handles on small to medium spindle work tools to 450 - 500 mm on standard bowl gouges and a few meters on captured boring bars.


One very important factor to consider - modern lathes have much more available horsepower, more torque and with design changes towards "direct drive" lathes like DVR's etc we also lose the clutch effect of the drive belt. (Some do have catch sensing technology though.)


The ferrule is only one link in the chain and the chain is only as strong as its weakest element.


*In typical use an experienced turner with good technical technique, well maintained tools etc will not require significant effort to turn however in the event of a catch the forces applied to the tool increase very significantly.


ps. I'm not a fan of "wound wire" ferrules. On hand tools no problem but I personally feel they should never be near a wood lathe. Yes we see "burning wires" in use etc but "wound wire" ferrules are one potential (remote, unlikely) hazard that does not really need to be there.