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Briangoldcoast
20th March 2015, 06:52 AM
The advice I got about a drive belt for the CC engineering tool and cutter grinder I am restoring was to stay with a flat belt.
I thought it would be nice to try and keep things as original as possible, so Ive stayed with the flat belt. That included finding a motor with a 19mm dia drive shaft.
The pulley is 1.125" wide and crowned and the belt circumference needs to be about 720mm. The pulleys are 70mm dia.
The problem is that now I'm in a position to look for a belt, I'm having trouble finding anything to work.

I found a belt at " SuperCheap Auto" which is 20mm wide and best price $35, but other than that I have spent several hours searching for a flat 'rubber' belt. (floor polishers washing machines, industrial mowers etc etc) with no success. I could get something made for about $80---yeah right!!

I don't want to spent much on this, and in my 'dreams' I was hoping to pick up a half worn belt from 'somewhere'. Any ideas where I could look?
I guess the first step is to find 'something' that uses a suitable belt then track down a local mechanic.
I would appreciate any suggestions please
regards Brian

BaronJ
20th March 2015, 07:07 AM
The advice I got about a drive belt for the CC engineering tool and cutter grinder I am restoring was to stay with a flat belt.
I thought it would be nice to try and keep things as original as possible, so Ive stayed with the flat belt. That included finding a motor with a 19mm dia drive shaft.
The pulley is 1.125" wide and crowned and the belt circumference needs to be about 720mm. The pulleys are 70mm dia.
The problem is that now I'm in a position to look for a belt, I'm having trouble finding anything to work.

I found a belt at " SuperCheap Auto" which is 20mm wide and best price $35, but other than that I have spent several hours searching for a flat 'rubber' belt. (floor polishers washing machines, industrial mowers etc etc) with no success. I could get something made for about $80---yeah right!!

I don't want to spent much on this, and in my 'dreams' I was hoping to pick up a half worn belt from 'somewhere'. Any ideas where I could look?
I guess the first step is to find 'something' that uses a suitable belt then track down a local mechanic.
I would appreciate any suggestions please
regards Brian

Hello Brian,

Have you thought about using a bicycle inner tube as a source. I have no idea if it would work, but "rubber" and 1.125" inches wide sounds right. :)

bollie7
20th March 2015, 07:34 AM
Have you considered making a leather belt? Being a grinder I'd think you wouldn't want a "stiff" section of belt at the join but I'm sure if it was done properly with a suitable adhesive it would work fine. As a possible source of leather you could try and find someone at one of the local markets who makes belts. Theres a bloke who has a stall at the local markets in the Newcastle area who does it and sells them for around $40 I think from memory. Someone like that might be able to supply you with a suitable length of leather to do the job. In fact I'm wearing one of his belts right now. Its stamped "Barry's 43571406" thats a NSW Central coast (Gosford way) number.
regards
bollie7

BobL
20th March 2015, 07:42 AM
I bought some VeeRib belts from Rydell, www.rydell.com.au (http://www.rydell.com.au)
When I went to pick the belt up I saw they had a wide range of flat belts.
Many of they belts come as tube and they just cut the width of belt you need
Another company I have used to buy PU belts are www.fdoconnor.com.au (http://www.fdoconnor.com.au)
I guess you have tried these sorts of place but they are too exxy for you?

Making a leather belt is not a silly as it sounds.
Back in 2006 I made up a belt from 3 mm thick leather to use as a powered strop.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31913&d=1160269278
Details here http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=38451&p=387861#post387861

Up until I used the outboard roller on my small linisher last year I was using it every now and then and bearing in mind I was rubbing sharp edges on it, the dental wax I used as thread had frayed and lost a couple of stitches in the middle but was still holding

Stustoys
20th March 2015, 02:29 PM
How about a worn out linisher belt? I've glued them myself with Aquadhere, works well enough if it doesn't get to hot(which yours shouldn't). As you wont be using the outside you should be able to get a flat joint inside without to much trouble.
The belt on my Wickman grinder looks like something along those lines.(though minus the abrasive as it uses both sides of the belt). Though granted its likely to be some sort of special belt material.

My next tight ass fix is an old seat belt.

Of course you may well spend $80 worth of time. but thats besides the point :)

Stuart

krisfarm
20th March 2015, 04:08 PM
Hi Briangoldcoast,
Here is another idea for your belt. You can buy an automotive multi rib belt that is used on most cars these days and turn it inside out and use it that way.I had a 2" wide belt made up for my Jones & Shipman drill press but that would cost you a lot more.
Bob

pmcgee
23rd March 2015, 01:40 AM
Treadmill belting?

Paul

Ben Dono
23rd March 2015, 06:55 AM
My first lathe was a very old belt driven Monarch. Pulling everything appart to slip a belt on looked way too daunting to me when I was 20 so I just stitched a belt togeather in place.

First one was just a standard lap joint...noisy but it worked and probably not recommended as their always was 1 hard spot on the belt where the stitching was but I had no way of adjusting the tension on the belt so leather was out. Probably not good on the bearings as well.

I like stustoys 'tight ass'idea of a seatbelt webbing. I used a bit of 'belt grip' spray from time to time to keep my flat belts from slipping too much.

The only problem with seatbelt webbing is that the lap join can't be too small especially if your stitching it.

I just made up a buffing belt for my linisher using 50mm webbing double thick so their was minimal stitching. I just used contact adhesive to laminate single belt into two layers togeather in one long loop and matched the join top and bottom.
The whole point of this was (besides not wanting to buy a $60 consumable) was to avoid hard spots in the belt. I was expecting the belt to delaminate but it's held so far.
Can't say if it's going to hold up for long?
The solvent in the belt grip will probably be a problem with this method..
The guy I sold it to said the best solution was just to use a normal v belt in place of the flat belt. No need to machine anything up.
A used timing belt turned around could be an option as well. I don't know how stiff they are but they wind around a few small pulleys in an engine.

Gammaboy
23rd March 2015, 03:45 PM
I've just installed a betalon flat belt I ordered from https://store.lathes.co.uk/belts/betalon-multiply-flat-belting
You have to measure your length very accurately, but is seems so far like it's a very good belt - replacing a knackered old leather belt.

Of course, I hadn't found the more local alternatives noted above when I ordered.

On a big old lathe at a car workshop I briefly worked at we needed to get the powered feed running for a job - we had a bunch of toothed timing belts kicking around, so we turned one inside out and cobbled up a tensioner pulley to make up for the 20mm excess length. worked very nicely, and is still going strong now, 2 years later.

GJM
24th March 2015, 05:37 PM
For the power feed for my old Denbiegh I used a serpentine ply -V belt from SuperCheap. I had to cut it and sew it to get it to the right length - works a treat and doesn't stretch like leather.

Briangoldcoast
25th March 2015, 09:10 AM
Thanks everyone for your useful and innovative replies.
I have been away for almost a week (fishing) and after reading all your good suggestions, I remembered I had a belt 'kit' to make a 25mm wide pants belt, that Ive never assembled because I prefer 50mm belts for my strides.
So that's my project when it gets too hot to be outdoors. I have some wax linen thread so I'm confident I can 'cobble' something together, at least enough to get the machine running. Once I can see it will run true and the bearings are ok, I can make a decision on whether its worth searching for something off the shelf.
The belts from Rydell look to be worth following up (thanks Bob) And I am a 'tight ass' with some things Stewart, especially when I can fix it or make it myself, but I guess that's a generation thing hey?
regards Brian

Briangoldcoast
25th March 2015, 12:28 PM
Success!!!
I found some wax linen thread that came from my Dad's toolbox. He worked for the PMG and the little roll I inherited is very valuable to me since it's so strong.
So342926342927342928 I drilled a couple of lines of holes with a dremel and broke 3 of my wife's sewing needles.
The important thing is the belt works a treat!!
I even ran a grinding wheel a couple of passes over a block of steel just to check it all works.
Now some time to tweak and adjust and put on the guards and get the 1.125 arbor sorted out and it all should be good to go.
Thanks everyone for your interest and suggestions
regards
Brian

Stustoys
25th March 2015, 01:43 PM
And I am a 'tight ass' with some things Stewart, especially when I can fix it or make it myself, but I guess that's a generation thing hey?


Could be, nothing wrong with that. I have deep pockets and short arms myself most of the time :D
Besides your custom belt looks great!

One thing in case you aren't aware, that looks like a normal hex bolt holding that vice down, you can damage the tee slots doing that. Of course if its a careful one off you'll be fine, (I cant keep track of who knows what:( so just thought I'd mention it)

Stuart

Briangoldcoast
25th March 2015, 06:17 PM
Stuart--- Good observation! Its actually a coach bolt with a couple of flats ground on the dome top to fit the tee slot, since the tee nuts I have need to be milled a little bit thinner to fit the slots, and I just wanted to see if everything ran 'true'. I only took a 'bees dick' of a cut just to mark the square bar enough to see everything was kosher.
I have spent an hour this afternoon cleaning the tee slots out and dressing the wheel and fitting a guard.
That sounds like i know what I'm doing which I doubt at times,--but I am careful these days to protect my eyes and face and lungs.
Thanks for your kind comments.
Now all I need is a 1.125" dia UNF lock nut!!!
regards
Brian

Anorak Bob
26th March 2015, 01:06 AM
Brian,

I bought a pair of 1/2" x 18" belts for the Hercus grinder's internal grinding spindle from this US eBay seller. Might be an option down the track for your grinder - http://stores.ebay.com/Ultimate-Industrial-Solutions/_i.html?_nkw=jason+400&submit=Search&_sid=715393798 Options a plenty for others seeking a flat belt too.

Bob.

Briangoldcoast
26th March 2015, 08:38 AM
Brian,

I bought a pair of 1/2" x 18" belts for the Hercus grinder's internal grinding spindle from this US eBay seller. Might be an option down the track for your grinder - http://stores.ebay.com/Ultimate-Industrial-Solutions/_i.html?_nkw=jason+400&submit=Search&_sid=715393798 Options a plenty for others seeking a flat belt too.

Bob.

Thanks Bob,--I bookmarked the page for further reference---regards Brian

Briangoldcoast
26th March 2015, 08:45 AM
Thanks Bob, There's some good stuff there. I bookmarked the address for when my home made belt wears out.,
Which by the way runs very quietly

QC Inspector
29th March 2015, 01:50 PM
That could very well be the first carved/tooled leather belt ever put on a machine. :). Well done. ;)

Pete