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Evanism
12th April 2015, 12:39 AM
Gday spinners,

I've made up a handle for a stiletto dagger. It has a number of ridges and valleys, all quite fine... literally the point of a sharp carbide cutter.

I'm trying to work out how I can finely sand down into those valleys. Unsanded they look awful.

The black stuff is G10. Its may as well be made of supermans bones... its hard.

Below is the photo, using the best angle and lighting I could to highlight the ridges. (to make them look nasty)... it looks better after tonights Shellawaxing.

I've tried using:

-- a thin strip of 600 torn off an abrasive multipack. Its cloth backed.
-- a good coating of EEE and a fluffy terry towelling.
-- fluffy tooth floss

I will try: tooth pick and kebab skewer with a cotton ball EEE or ram in a tightly folded 600 grit edge.

But its not quite getting down there.

Any ideas?

344556

blondewood
12th April 2015, 04:35 AM
They have a product that is like a sandpaper string, sold on a spool. It's for sanding and refinishing furniture, like the spindles. I've seen it in craft and woodworking and scroll saw catalogs. Just Google 'sanding string' for pictures and stores.
Vici

Colin62
12th April 2015, 05:14 AM
Would steel wool work?

Tangoman
12th April 2015, 07:51 AM
Tightly folded over sandpaper will do the job - but sand lightly as it will quite easily change the shape of the grooves.

I would suggest that in future using a skew chisel will leave the surface very much smoother.

Cam

Mobyturns
12th April 2015, 08:29 AM
Sia make a very good paper backed sand paper that is great for small spindle work. I cut it into small rectangles of about 25 x 40 mm. Should be available at most reputable auto refinisher suppliers or paint suppliers.

SIA 1919 http://www.sia-abrasives.com/industries/en/awb_wood_1919_siawood_plus.php

&

SIA 1913 http://www.sia-abrasives.com/files/Flyer_1913siawat_en.pdf - is my preference

chuck1
12th April 2015, 09:05 AM
Could you use a skew fresh off the grinder but using the long point. What I'm pictured is set the toolrest so the long point is at Centre height and poke the long point in so the burr on the bevel is cutting into the bottom of your shape.
hope this makes sense?!

so your scraping with the top of your skew. You would need a rectangular skew and hold on tight!

or could you change the grooves into beads?

Colin62
12th April 2015, 09:07 AM
I would suggest that in future using a skew chisel will leave the surface very much smoother.

Agreed.

Evanism
12th April 2015, 11:06 AM
G10 isn't wood. HSS doesn't touch it :( this is why the carbide was absolutely necessary.

Paul39
12th April 2015, 11:19 AM
Evanisim,

I think you have done well. Some thin 600 grit folded over a knife blade might do it. Stick it down in the groove and slant to the left, then to the right, then out. You wont get much life out of the grit so you will probably have to do a new fold for each groove.

Follow up with some yarn charged with Shellawax.

It looks wonderful.

For you folks suggesting a skew, the material is probably plastic filled with either glass fiber or Kevlar.

chuck1
12th April 2015, 01:11 PM
Oh super hard/strong. Could you a new tct. or a V router bit get in there to clean it up?

smiife
12th April 2015, 05:08 PM
G10 isn't wood. HSS doesn't touch it :( this is why the carbide was absolutely necessary.

Hi evanism,
If It ain, t wood and hss is no good how about
burning the grooves in with copper wire , It would
match In with the black in the handle and look good
on the timber part:; . just an idea !

Evanism
12th April 2015, 06:45 PM
Smiffie cheated and used his super powers to view my post and pictures before I put them up!

I deliberately used the very point of the skew, freshly sharpened on on an 80 CBN (not the 180) and since it was rough it acted like a file. Then it was a length of acrylic builders string.. the bright pink and fluoro orange stuff with a dab of EEE, then finally a good length of fluffy tooth floss.

Did a good job.... I think.

Time to part off and drill for the tang...

3 miserable pix showing a bit of detail.... 1000 apologies for the rubbish photography.

344609 344610 344611

Many thanks to everyone who gave me ideas for carbides, scraping, detailing, etc... shoulders of giants and all that :D

dai sensei
12th April 2015, 08:09 PM
If you are pushing the skew in whilst in the vertical position it will tear the grain, lie the skew on its side and cut the grove with the tip from one side, therefore effectively using the skew as a negative raked scraper.

Evanism
12th April 2015, 09:31 PM
If you are pushing the skew in whilst in the vertical position it will tear the grain, lie the skew on its side and cut the grove with the tip from one side, therefore effectively using the skew as a negative raked scraper.

I was thinking about your comment and came back to it. I put the skew horizontal with the point on the lower side, starting with the edge in the gap and slowly raising the point up until it just touched.

This sort of pushed all the fibres flat and gave enough friction to polish the G10... To some degree.

The woven builders string did a great job.

To be really honest, I was absolutely terrified that it would catch and rip off a chunk. Certified instant disaster! There were no spares, required absolute exactitude and this was a very special mates-rates gallery presentation....it made me sweat at every level.

Evanism
12th April 2015, 11:41 PM
Ready made for the fire.

Its a cold night!

An engineering mob will be doing the tangs hole..... maybe I will. Unknown :oo:

344627 344628 344629 344630 344631

Length is 127mm and core diameter is 18mm. Made to a tolerance of 0.04mm in main diameters and 0.35mm in length to the drawings.

dai sensei
13th April 2015, 10:16 AM
Geez, drilling a tang hole centrally is not easy after they are turned, good luck with that. I always drill the tang hole first, plus if I don't know the size, drill a small one so drilling a larger one is much easier.

Evanism
13th April 2015, 10:28 AM
Geez, drilling a tang hole centrally is not easy after they are turned, good luck with that. I always drill the tang hole first, plus if I don't know the size, drill a small one so drilling a larger one is much easier.

I tried drilling it before I started, but it couldn't even be scratched. Super fresh-sharp.... Slow... Colossal pressure.... Nope :C

A 3mm bit was uttterly blunted just getting a pilot for the live centre.

It's being taken to an engineering shop that has the jigs and a magic drill. :U

DS, I agree with the order, but it wasn't to be!

mattm82
13th April 2015, 01:37 PM
I certainly didn't realise the magnitude of what I was asking when i ordered the turning (given I had never tried to turn G10) but nice enjoyed following the trials and tribulations of your part of this collaboration mate. You've excelled!

344665
344666

For anyone interested, this is the other end.


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mattm82
26th April 2015, 05:02 PM
For those interested in the finished product.

My attempt at an AAS replica with a suitably military theme given its a military knife and 100 yr anniversary of ANZAC day yesterday.

Lest we forget.

http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/mattm982/81D29569-2EBA-4C7B-BCF5-FC3EF64F5DBE_zps4ebtqaiv.jpg

http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/mattm982/C5CE4D3B-9AB5-4C5B-B6EE-61C3F6E05FC8_zpsczeenn51.jpg

http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/mattm982/656EAB9F-9288-4423-9D5E-A1E809485CC9_zpsmjal80cp.jpg

http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac95/mattm982/46CE2FD2-4F1D-4A72-BBB6-983B8970874A_zps88j8wnxn.jpg

Damascus blade and guard, g10 core with flame sheoak outer. This entire knife is as dimensionally accurate as I could get it and within 0.5mm of the dimensions I was provided.
Massive thanks to Evan for his help!


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mick61
27th April 2015, 11:47 PM
That's cool.
Mick