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planemaker
8th May 2015, 04:32 PM
As far as I know its hasn't been done on a backsaw, so it will be an opportunity to test my skills.

I am using Australian Jarrah with some very nice feature through it for the handle. Its not the easiest of timbers to shape with, but its still doable.

The saw plate will be of 0.020 gauge; 20 inches x 3 inches below the spine.

For those not familiar with the shape of a D8 heel; here is one I recently refurbished.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20refurbishment/_DSC0457_zpsfeb8fh9s.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20refurbishment/_DSC0457_zpsfeb8fh9s.jpg.html)

The handle is still in its early stages of shaping, with the saw plate slot completed.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0508_zpsj4lra06p.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0508_zpsj4lra06p.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0509_zpssh2dk0fr.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0509_zpssh2dk0fr.jpg.html)

planemaker
8th May 2015, 08:35 PM
The primary heel cut of the saw plate is indicated by the pencil line that runs vertically down the cheek. (2nd photo)

planemaker
8th May 2015, 09:54 PM
Pedder's detective work has revealed an extended heel has been done before on a backsaw. The Harvey Peace P - 47. (far right photo within attachment).

http://positiverake.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Saws-in-Box_061.jpg

rob streeper
8th May 2015, 11:08 PM
Do you think that there is a functional purpose, perhaps for plowing dado's, of the extended heel or is it an aesthetic feature?

planemaker
8th May 2015, 11:23 PM
Hi Rob. Purely aesthetic. No different to that on the D8. It's only real attribute is that it visually marries the heel of the saw plate much closer to the handle itself. That's the reason I was a bit skeptical to take on this project. It does involve a lot more extra work especially when it comes to shaping the heel of the saw plate by hand due to its unique curves.

Stewie;

Heavansabove
9th May 2015, 12:15 PM
Hi Rob. Purely aesthetic. No different to that on the D8. It's only real attribute is that it visually marries the heel of the saw plate much closer to the handle itself. That's the reason I was a bit skeptical to take on this project. It does involve a lot more extra work especially when it comes to shaping the heel of the saw plate by hand due to its unique curves. Stewie;
Stewie, look like an intersting project. Have you seen a throatless shear? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S184. I am going to have a look this to see whether it will cut spring steel, probably in June when I will be back in Sydney.

How are you cutting the slot in the handle? With a range of slitting saws for the presumably more than one curve in the handle?
Regards
Peter

rob streeper
9th May 2015, 12:59 PM
Hi Rob. Purely aesthetic. No different to that on the D8. It's only real attribute is that it visually marries the heel of the saw plate much closer to the handle itself. That's the reason I was a bit skeptical to take on this project. It does involve a lot more extra work especially when it comes to shaping the heel of the saw plate by hand due to its unique curves.

Stewie;

I always thought, and still mostly think, that the point was good looks/visual or functional balance. Then I ran across this: http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/1874page.html
I wonder...

rob streeper
9th May 2015, 01:02 PM
Stewie, look like an intersting project. Have you seen a throatless shear? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S184. I am going to have a look this to see whether it will cut spring steel, probably in June when I will be back in Sydney.

How are you cutting the slot in the handle? With a range of slitting saws for the presumably more than one curve in the handle?
Regards
Peter

Hi Peter,

The shear you linked above wouldn't be useful for much more than 0.015" thick 1095. I've read elsewhere that shears should be de-rated about 75% when cutting 1095. I have a Beverly B-3, mild steel capacity 4.7 mm, which easily cuts 0.042" 1095. It'd probably cut up to 0.060" or so saw steel.

If you're patient you can find the Beverly shears second hand for around $500 on eBay.

Cheers,
Rob

planemaker
9th May 2015, 11:11 PM
Hi Peter. I used a 40mm O.D slitting blade; the tool holder I has an O.D of 30mm, giving me an effective cutting depth of 5mm; ideal for the slot depth running through the bottom rail of the handle. The slot through the cheek was then deepened with an 0.020 no set backsaw.

Stewie;

planemaker
11th May 2015, 03:31 PM
A slight change to the final sizing of the saw plate. The new dimensions are 18" L x 2 1/2 D (below the spine).

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0510_zpsaijsxa32.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0510_zpsaijsxa32.jpg.html)

Shaping the contoured heel on the saw plate was fairly straight forward using a Dremel with a grinding stone attachment.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0512_zpsktm8daux.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0512_zpsktm8daux.jpg.html)

A close up of the heel fit with the handle in position.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0511_zpsplkb2spy.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0511_zpsplkb2spy.jpg.html)

Next step will be installing the 3 x saw bolt assemblies.

Stewie;

planemaker
12th May 2015, 04:19 PM
The saw bolt assemblies have been installed.

Shaping of the edge profiles on the handle has started.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0513_zpshzoocf70.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0513_zpshzoocf70.jpg.html)

planemaker
13th May 2015, 01:36 AM
Of relevance to this handsaw and many other examples, the area of saw plate directly under the handle only serves a limited function.. As a result, the total length of any saw plate is not an indicator to its usable stroke length. With this backsaw for example; it may have an 18" saw plate, but with the extended heel pattern, only the front 14" of tooth line will likely see much work.

Stewie;


http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/14c1da94-4592-4098-ac4d-6c6a0074c253_zps0yaie8cw.jpg?t=1431354079

rob streeper
13th May 2015, 07:18 AM
I like your edit.

Cheers,
Rob

planemaker
14th May 2015, 03:43 PM
Further progress made with the final shaping of this backsaw handle. Jarrah is certainly on my list of difficult Australian timbers to shape into a saw handle.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0516_zpsj7bhmcm3.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0516_zpsj7bhmcm3.jpg.html)

Sawdust Maker
14th May 2015, 09:40 PM
nice piece of black spot jarrah

rob streeper
14th May 2015, 11:05 PM
Hi Stewie,

Looks like your saw is shaping up nicely. Are you intending this to serve at least part time as a miter box saw?
How is Jarrah to work with? Does it have any bad tendencies such as blow outs, splits, regions of very open grain?

Thanks,
Rob

planemaker
14th May 2015, 11:36 PM
Hi Rob. As I have no intention on keeping this saw, its use will be determined by its new owner.

There are areas around the handle that react differently to the rasp. As such there is a great need to take care when working closely to the inside profile lines. I have no problems recommended Jarrah for saw handle's. Its just not a timber you can aggressively attack with a rasp.

Stewie;

Sawdust Maker
15th May 2015, 09:25 AM
Rob

Jarrah is one very pretty species of timber, looks magnificent when finished

Whilst not as hard as some of our other Aussie timbers, it can be a pain on tools as it often has a pretty high silica content

rob streeper
15th May 2015, 10:11 AM
Rob

Jarrah is one very pretty species of timber, looks magnificent when finished

Whilst not as hard as some of our other Aussie timbers, it can be a pain on tools as it often has a pretty high silica content

The silica comment reminds me of mesquite. Does Jarrah sometimes have rocks inside it? Mesquite is notorious around here for picking up trash including rocks, bits of wire and anything else laying near the trunk as the tree grows. It also produces enormous and very pretty burls, here's a pic of one I have. These are caused by Mistletoe.

347110

planemaker
15th May 2015, 12:28 PM
Hi Rob. Jarrah is not prone to the issues you mention within Mesquite.

Stewie;

planemaker
18th May 2015, 02:55 PM
Shaping work to the handle is now complete, apart from some minor touch ups to the lambs tongue to improve its flow and appearance.

I have also added a double step to the outside curvature on the bottom rail of the handle , to improve soften that transition point.

An external curve has also been added to the exposed heel of the saw plate as a means of improving its transition away from the handle.

The handle will now undergo further coats of amber shellac and light sanding in between to fill any small micro voids within the wood surface. It should also aid to further darken the final appearance of the Jarrah wood.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0518_zps60oaxo93.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0518_zps60oaxo93.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0519_zpscki08ueq.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0519_zpscki08ueq.jpg.html)

planemaker
21st May 2015, 01:42 PM
The handle has received its 4th and final coat. Its actual appearance is about 2 shades darker than the camera was able to pick up. I will leave the shellac finish to further harden over the next 5 days before hitting it with a mechanical buff.

The chamfered edge on the brass back has been hand filed . This was done using a round needle file, a standard cut feather file; followed up by a fine cut feather file, and 400 grit sand paper. A 600 grit Grey 635 Bear- Tex Pad was then used to remove any fine scratches on the brass surface.

The slotted brass back has been secured to the top of the saw plate using a Loctite thread sealant.

The next phase of the backsaw build will be hand filing the saw teeth.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0521_zpszebvcyyq.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0521_zpszebvcyyq.jpg.html)

A closer view of the edge profile around the handle cheeks.
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0522_zpsyi3iqioj.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0522_zpsyi3iqioj.jpg.html)

Stewie;

planemaker
21st May 2015, 08:29 PM
From a distance the surface pattern on the saw plate reminds me of Damascus Steel.

Luke Maddux
21st May 2015, 08:35 PM
Stewie,

What is your intended purpose for this saw? It has the appearance of a mitre saw given its length. Do you intend to put fleam on the teeth?

Looks great, by the way.

Cheers,
Luke

planemaker
21st May 2015, 08:55 PM
Stewie,

What is your intended purpose for this saw? It has the appearance of a mitre saw given its length. Do you intend to put fleam on the teeth?

Looks great, by the way.

Cheers,
Luke

Hi Luke. I dont advocate the use of fleam on 0.020 and 0.025 saw plate.

There is no reason why this saw cannot be used free from a mitre box.

I have no plans to keep this backsaw.


regards Stewie;

planemaker
22nd May 2015, 04:07 PM
The saw teeth have been filed 11 tpi with a 10* rake angle.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0523_zpsznjxydfk.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0523_zpsznjxydfk.jpg.html)

Remaining to do will be to apply the set; give the teeth a single pass with the jointer file; then resharpen each tooth to a point.

The plastic sheeting is to protect the saw plate while its held within the saw vise.

Stewie;

planemaker
24th May 2015, 04:44 PM
The following are photo's of the now completed backsaw.

During final test cuts, I found it difficult to find a fault within this saw's functionality and design.

regards Stewie;



http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0528_zps1h3xaahv.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0528_zps1h3xaahv.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0525_zpsxlfdhme8.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0525_zpsxlfdhme8.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0526_zpsqhmcspax.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0526_zpsqhmcspax.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0527_zpsthi1x0s9.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0527_zpsthi1x0s9.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0529_zpsrhjkxawf.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0529_zpsrhjkxawf.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0530_zpsw2phd56m.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/D8%20Heel%20Backsaw/DSC_0530_zpsw2phd56m.jpg.html)

planemaker
26th May 2015, 01:57 AM
Hi all. I am contemplating the use of the same heel pattern on future backsaw builds. Any feedback as to your like or dislike of this feature would be appreciated.

regards Stewie;

rob streeper
26th May 2015, 12:05 PM
Hi all. I am contemplating the use of the same heel pattern on future backsaw builds. Any feedback as to your like or dislike of this feature would be appreciated.

regards Stewie;

It looks good and it's a little harder to do well. I guess we'll see if people want that type of feature.

Cheers,
Rob

planemaker
26th May 2015, 02:36 PM
Hi Rob. Its can be difficult trying to interpret what others will like or dislike. As an example :

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTjfCXn8Z1BCvGNYRzbTwpasXcGyyCrC6z-H6TGy_XZLZyzXYqi

Sawdust Maker
26th May 2015, 08:15 PM
Rob

that is a very good looking saw

I don't know about the heel - will think on it further (and maybe play in photoshop)

on another tack I think that the large expanse of steel needs an etch!

rob streeper
26th May 2015, 11:02 PM
Hi Rob. Its can be difficult trying to interpret what others will like or dislike. As an example :

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTjfCXn8Z1BCvGNYRzbTwpasXcGyyCrC6z-H6TGy_XZLZyzXYqi

True, but I'd wager that they sell a lot of them because they do the job and they're relatively inexpensive. These are well positioned too because they are functional and useful tools that are priced between the LN machine made customs and the ultra-cheap mass-market saws like this:
348253