recharging a flat WD40 aerosol cans

[cba_melbourne]

How many a spray can has been tossed before it was empty, just because it had lost its pressure

Came across this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mimSDtqljMA

[Evanism]

Thats a fantastic idea. So obvious!

I've seen these before and they work for other fluids: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ECO-CAN-Refillable-Rechargeable-Aerosol-Spray-Can-Paint-Cleaning-Lubrication-x-/171011949314

[KBs PensNmore]

Thanks for that, I've got about half a dozen cans with no air!!! Not anymore:D
Kryn

[RoyG]

How many a spray can has been tossed before it was empty, just because it had lost its pressure

Came across this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mimSDtqljMA

From personal experience, I'd use extreme caution if you're going to try this ! I got the idea from a similar Youtube video. In that video, they warned people not to overcharge, and recommended checking the MSDS to find out what pressure the can is filled with at the factory. I had an Inox can that was still near full, but had no propellant left. So - checked the Inox Aerosol MSDS for Australia, along with the published specifications for the Aerosol product. No mention of the pressure that the can is filled to.

In the video I watched, the person had also been unable to find the correct pressure for the aerosol product they were refilling, so they choose 90 PSI, but gave no explanation for how they arrived at that figure. In the video they recharged two cans at that pressure, successfully.

So I decided to try my hand to see if I could get some half used cans of Inox recharged with more compressed air as the propellant. Thankfully, I did not follow the 90 PSI example that was shown in the video that I watched. Instead I started with the regulator set to 20 PSI, and very slowly added air to the can. I worked up in 10 PSI steps. When I was adding air from 30 up to 40 PSI, the can suddenly distorted somewhere under 40 PSI. I quickly dumped the can in a metal rubbish tin, and clapped the lid on the rubbish tin. About 30 second after I dumped the Inox can in the bin, the side seam on the Inox can ruptured !

You can imagine what the Newspaper headlines would have said the next morning if I had been silly enough to go straight for 90 PSI as the video showed, or even if I'd been cautious and gone for 45 PSI instead.

Having tried this technique, my serious recommendation is, FORGET IT ! It is not worth risking serious injury by trying this technique, just for the sake of the cost of a replacement aerosol can.

If you search around the Internet, there are plenty of suggestions for minimising propellant loss from Aerosol cans. Some of the suggestions definitely look like they have come from the "tin foil hat" brigade, and lack credibility when you consider the Aerosol Can's engineering design. But, two suggestions that seem to make the most sense (and that I use) are:



For Aerosol Paint Cans - most aerosol paint cans say to turn the can upside down to spray some propellant to clean the nozzle. That approach wastes a lot of propellant. Instead, when you're finished spraying, take the nozzle off the top of the can and wash the nozzle in the solvent appropriate for that paint. I use aerosol cans of oil based Cabothane Clear that I use on small boxes etc. After use, I store the nozzles from those cans in a bottle of Mineral Turps. Using that technique, I've always been able to use all the finish that's in the aerosol can, and I also have a supply of spare nozzles if I get a dodgy one that sprays poorly - which seems to happen occasionally.
For Aerosol Lubricants (Inox, CRC-336, WD-40, etc, etc) - Store the can inverted. This hint came from a friend who works at a large Grocery Chain's distribution warehouse. He said that many manufacturer's of Aerosol goods mention in the warehousing notes for their products, that "storing the products inverted will eliminate the loss of propellant whilst the goods are being warehoused". I've been storing my aersols this for about five years now. What I noticed with an old can of Silicon Lube for Aluminum Windows, was that after a few years storage when I went to use the spray can, a small amount of the Silicon Lube had seeped out of the nozzle - but the can still sprayed OK.


That's my ten cents worth.

Enjoy your shed time safely ......

Regards,

RoyG

[Oldneweng]

I have found that cans of Electraclean do not last very long. I had 3 of them over a relatively short period of time go flat! I knocked a hole in them and drained the contents into a glass bottle. This has supplied me for a couple of years, but it is now fairly low. Most of the loss is evaporation out of the bottle.

I will have to think about storing upside down. Need somewhere set up for this. Few of my cans have lids anymore. Many cans with the tube supplied no longer have anywhere to store the tube so it gets left in, so the lid gets ditched. Then there are the ones the possum knocks off and breaks and the ones I break.

Dean

[BobL]

The only cans that consistently seem to fail me (both at home and the at the mens shed) are WD40.

I would have switched to bulk WD40 (which costs less than half that of the spray packs) and used a hand spray but I was worried I could not find an applicator but last week I was in one of the big HW stores and saw they were also selling specific WD40 hand pumps.
Does anyone use these hand pumps and are they any good?

I use around 20 cans of spray paints a year and cannot recall the last time a can still had something in it before the propellant ran out. However I will use Ray's suggested method for cans where I just use small amounts of paint each time and need to clean the nozzle more regularly.

[NCArcher]

Does anyone use these hand pumps and are they any good?



I've been using the hand spray bottles for WD40 and Inox for years. I should state that I didn't buy them. The mines supply the spray bottles and fill from bulk containers. Much cheaper than issuing a new aerosol can every time someone needs a couple of squirts. But I've had spray bottles with Inox in for years. Never had a problem. They can leak if tipped over but I made a stand to keep them upright in the back of the car.

[krisfarm]

BobL
I have been using the bulk Inox- 5 litre bottles for the past 10 years and the retailer always supply a spay bottle with it. Does WD40 bulk not do the same?
Bob

[BobL]

BobL
I have been using the bulk Inox- 5 litre bottles for the past 10 years and the retailer always supply a spay bottle with it. Does WD40 bulk not do the same?
Bob

The bulk pack costs $38 for 4L and the spray bottle is $5 extra.

I wonder if these bottle work with turps? I've been using kitchen surface cleaner and window cleaner bottles with turps but the pumps fail very quickly with turps.

[.RC.]

Just did a quick google and found this

http://www.sureshotsprayer.com/

[cba_melbourne]

The only cans that consistently seem to fail me (both at home and the at the mens shed) are WD40.

I would have switched to bulk WD40 (which costs less than half that of the spray packs) and used a hand spray but I was worried I could not find an applicator but last week I was in one of the big HW stores and saw they were also selling specific WD40 hand pumps.
Does anyone use these hand pumps and are they any good?

I use around 20 cans of spray paints a year and cannot recall the last time a can still had something in it before the propellant ran out. However I will use Ray's suggested method for cans where I just use small amounts of paint each time and need to clean the nozzle more regularly.

What I have done until now with the many WD40 cans that lost pressure, is to pry the lid off and fill the contents into a WD40 hand pump sprayer.

I agree with Rays comments about the risk of overpressurizing. Especially if it is done like in the video, using short air bursts of high pressure air from a tyre inflator. I will use a regulator instead when I try this myself, I have not so far. The WD40 technical data sheet states an aerosol vapor pressure of 95 to 115 psi at 21C temperature. Also, some smaller sray cans (other than WD40) may not be 3 piece steel cans but 2 piece Aluminium. No idea how this affects bucling and burst pressures.

Looking up on the net, it appears that US aerosol cans come in classifications, DOT-2Q, and DOT-2P. DOT-2Q are required to withstand a minimum of 180psi without buckle, and 270psi without burst (at 130F = 54C temperature). Dot-2P have a lower burst pressure of 240psi (the difference is in the metal thickness used to make the can). Apparently American WD40 cans are marked DOT-2Q, but I have not found any marking on WD40 made in Au cans. The Europeans use different standards, not DOT.

Ray, thanks for the tip of storing upside down - maybe that prevents the need to repressurize altogether.

[joe greiner]

I have found that cans of Electraclean do not last very long. I had 3 of them over a relatively short period of time go flat! I knocked a hole in them and drained the contents into a glass bottle. This has supplied me for a couple of years, but it is now fairly low. Most of the loss is evaporation out of the bottle.

I will have to think about storing upside down. Need somewhere set up for this. Few of my cans have lids anymore. Many cans with the tube supplied no longer have anywhere to store the tube so it gets left in, so the lid gets ditched. Then there are the ones the possum knocks off and breaks and the ones I break.

Dean

Wrap a rubber band around the can, doubled if necessary. Tuck the tube between the rubber and the can.

Joe

[jack620]

I have been using the bulk Inox- 5 litre bottles for the past 10 years....

Me too, but I find the bulk Inox too thick to spray. I diluted it with turps (or maybe it was kero?) to make it sprayable. Anyone else had this problem?

Chris

[Oldneweng]

Wrap a rubber band around the can, doubled if necessary. Tuck the tube between the rubber and the can.

Joe

I have some wide rubber bands. Problem is trying to get the band lifted to fit the tube under it. I usually have gloves on. I though of putting a small stick under the band to make a hole for the tube then slide the tube around away from the stick. Or I could attach a length of small poly pipe with the rubber band and plug the bottom. Instant tube socket. Whats the bet that the resident possum will send it flying tho. :C

Dean

[Stustoys]

I wonder if these bottle work with turps?

"For corrosive substances, guaranteed solvent compatible. Suitable for petroleum-based solvents, acids and alkalis, and dilute alcoholic cleaner and other liquids in industrial applications"

http://www.ebay.de/itm/201350748513
Though a $32AU posted for a spray bottle it would want to be

If its not to nasty, the pump in this uses ball bearings for valves.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/261886566169 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261907103950)

Not saying these are the best prices out there.

Might have been here before:q


Stuart

[Grahame Collins]

The bulk pack costs $38 for 4L and the spray bottle is $5 extra.

I wonder if these bottle work with turps? I've been using kitchen surface cleaner and window cleaner bottles with turps but the pumps fail very quickly with turps.

There is a difference in the kitchen surface cleaner spray bottles and the ones like WD40 RP7 and CRC.

That is the check valves and seals are made from viton which stands up to to more volatile spray fluids. New empty ones are available.
I pay under $5 each for 1litre sprays at my local cleaning and paint shop.

I have a number of them holding turps, kero, metho,citronella degreaser and white spirits.

Grahame

[eskimo]

Are not the wd40/ crc and the like filled with propane/ butane or the like

These gases are pressure temperature related substance...liquid/vapour ....the higher the liquid temp the higher the pressure...so do not over pressurise and all will be safe
a pressure temp chart will reveal all

[Ropetangler]

I've been using the hand spray bottles for WD40 and Inox for years. I should state that I didn't buy them. The mines supply the spray bottles and fill from bulk containers. Much cheaper than issuing a new aerosol can every time someone needs a couple of squirts. But I've had spray bottles with Inox in for years. Never had a problem. They can leak if tipped over but I made a stand to keep them upright in the back of the car.

I have a very similar experience except that it is with CRC. My original spray bottle (with push button, not trigger as the newer ones seem to be) has been going since the mid 1970s I would think, and except for a slightly too weak a return spring which sometimes doesn't push the button back for the next pump cycle, still works fine without leaks. I bought another hand spray bottle, again CRC brand recently and have not yet filled it, but it cost $10 at a field day, because I have had no luck with kitchen spray bottles with workshop solvents other than Metho, which they seem to handle OK

[BobL]

Are not the wd40/ crc and the like filled with propane/ butane or the like

These gases are pressure temperature related substance...liquid/vapour ....the higher the liquid temp the higher the pressure...so do not over pressurise and all will be safe
a pressure temp chart will reveal all

WD40 and some CRC products appear to use CO2 as the propellant.

[eskimo]

WD40 and come CRC products appear to use CO2 as the propellant.

same same different stuff:D

[KJL1951 aka Kev]

348678 Playing around with spray cans - no thanks - I'm tight when it comes to money - but not that tight.

Hooroo
KJL1951 aka Kev.

[Grahame Collins]

There was a can available brand new that all you did was pour in your fluid and and pump them up with an air chuck. I saw them for sale in the 80.s

If I recall they were very expensive.

Grahame

[KJL1951 aka Kev]

There was a can available brand new that all you did was pour in your fluid and and pump them up with an air chuck. I saw them for sale in the 80.s

If I recall they were very expensive.

Grahame
You're right Grahame, Can't remember what it cost me - being tight with money couldn't have cost much - I brought one when I tried me hand at fishing lure making and painting - I couldn't afford a compressor back then so walked to local servo not far from home to pump darn thing up all the time - I got more exercise than it did as a spray painting unit - it was about as useless as ......... on a bull.

Hooroo
KJL1951 aka Kev.

[Chris Parks]

Wurth do a nice line of pump bottles https://www.google.com.au/search?q=wurth+pump+bottles&espv=2&biw=1706&bih=873&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kvRqVdfMJJD98QWf-4OgAw&ved=0CF0QsAQ

[Steamwhisperer]

Wurth do a nice line of pump bottles https://www.google.com.au/search?q=wurth+pump+bottles&espv=2&biw=1706&bih=873&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kvRqVdfMJJD98QWf-4OgAw&ved=0CF0QsAQ

I have owned a Wurth pump bottle for over 12 years now and it still doesn't lose any air.

Phil

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Wurth do a nice line of pump bottles https://www.google.com.au/search?q=wurth+pump+bottles&espv=2&biw=1706&bih=873&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kvRqVdfMJJD98QWf-4OgAw&ved=0CF0QsAQ

Wolfchester also do an identical one, I think with Forch branding (can't be bothered going out to the workshop)


I have owned a Wurth pump bottle for over 12 years now and it still doesn't lose any air.

Phil

We had 2 or 3 at my old work that had been used as spray bottles for petrol for the same amount of time. One was starting to occasionally dribble out the nozzle by itself after that length of time, but was otherwise still working fine. Probably more from the years of being knocked off benches and hoist legs onto the concrete than anything else. Got a seal kit, threw it in, good as new. Personally I've got a Forch one that has been used only to spray petrol for the 3-4 years I've had it, and its still perfect, holds pressure for weeks.

Turps shouldn't be an issue for them at all - they're sold for use with brake cleaner, which I'd imagine is far more corrosive than turps. Expensive, yes. But you won't buy another one - unless you want to have a second type of fluid ready to go.....