Ungluing Timber

[Pauls321]

Hi there,

This could be tuff one. Does anyone have any trick for ungluing timber that has been joined together with Aquadhere PVA woodwork glue.??

Paul

[elanjacobs]

What sort of surface area are we talking? Is it just a butt join or are there dowels through it?
PVA will soften when exposed to high temperatures and moisture, so you could try steaming it and I mean PROPERLY steaming it (think several hours in a sauna cranked all the way up). Just be aware that this WILL affect the timber as well and you'll need to let it dry properly, then re-dress it.

Is simply cutting it an option?

[Arron]

I suggest you ring Selleys tachnical hotline. They are usually pretty helpful.

I'd like to know the answer too.
cheers
arron

[Pauls321]

Hi and thanks for your comments. I made a neck for a guitar with a fretboard glued to it. Neck is african mahogany, and fretboard is hornbeam. I realised later that I made a mistake with the frets in it. I now intend to try and remove the fretboard from the neck. The neck of course has a truss rod inserted in it.

I just tossed this up thinking someone might have a miracle answer. Otherwise I will perhaps bandsaw the fretboard off it. But I dont want to touch the actual neck at all. Then I will endeavour to sand it back till I get it just flush with the top of the neck.

Paul

[auscab]

Hi Paul ,
I had a similar problem although I had glued my fretboard down with Hot Hide Glue, never again, or would I with any water based glue .
The water reacted with my ebony and the fretboard cupped to the point where about 50% of it was attached .
Second time around and another Ebony fret board and I used two pack .

HHG is a great glue for getting things apart. At the right temperature Two pack will release as well .

And I would bet the nature of a guitar neck will allow your fretboard to come off even if it is PVA . Forget saving the fretboard though . If you shave the fretboard thinner it may be a good thing .

With the heat going down through the fretboard and a blunt knife lifting it, the heating stops as it comes apart .
Here is a picture of my ebony one lifting .

I had the iron as hot as it could be and was running it back and forth a little , it needs a good minute or more to let the heat soak through . I don't think water in this situation is any good .


There is a better part of this forum to ask rather that here as well .

I hope my answer works for you though , good luck with it . A neck is a fair bit of work .

http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=98

Rob

[Lappa]

Found this at the Selley's site

http://www.selleys.com.au/ask_expert/answers/adhesives/234-removing-pva

Hope it helps

[auscab]

I just searched this , http://www.cpadhesives.com/_blog/Adhesives_and_Woodworking/tag/pva/

the short of it is ,PVA becomes plastic at around 160F

at what point is a fretboard going to burst into flames ?

I think shave it down to 3mm and give the iron a go .

Or try it first un shaved .

Rob

[AlexS]

I've had success with separating PVA joints using cleaning vinegar. Be careful though, it may stain some timbers.

[Toymaker Len]

A guitar repair guy I know uses a needle with steam. Its a home made jig with a steam line led from an electric jug to a fine long needle. First he drills about 1.6mm holes into where he wants to open up and then in with the steam needle and thirty seconds later the pieces just fall apart.

[Pauls321]

Thanks for all these replies Gentlemen,

I guess one of the problem with trying to heat it all, is that the actual neck is also edge glued as I use a couple of pieces of African mahogany jointed to make the neck. I am going to closely examine this again today and see what I come up with,

Thanks, Paul