bowl gouge tool dig -in

[ACACIA]

hi --can anyone advise bow gouge that does NOT dig in ?
African teak & mahogany ---leadwood /acacia bowls have broken my wrist

home made tools ----work well (tempered files) bush dweller--Zululand
but external cutting --of hardwood is no problem

drama is bowl hollowing---scary

posting fotos impossible -----on this forum ----have many fotos t show ---explains my problem easier

can I send my fotos to anyones e-mail?
thank you
appreciate advice ----( novice ---only2 years experience)--home -made lathe

regards ACACIA

[Wood Collector]

Are you moving the tool rest in while you are turning to reduce the overhang of the tool. The other question is are you keeping the tools sharp during turning? I think that it would be safer to use proper wood turning tools than files as files are not made to take a shearing force that is being exerted on the tool during turning. Cheers WC

[Christos]

Welcome to the forum.

You might look at this link for the process of posting photos.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=168803

[ACACIA]

Thankyou for the advice ---
but bowl gouges i bought/ made from tool steel --all dig in very badly on deep hardwood bowls

there must be a universal NON DIG -IN TOO SOMEWHERE?
-- NO more fluted spindle /bowl gouges in my arsenal ----scary ---threw them out!

prefer safer round nose scrapers - skew-and a tool I designed myself that resembles
a carbide disc insert ---
my tool rest is kept close /stable /no probs

see foto ---of this tool pofile ---NEVER DIGS IN -- but only scrapes very little materal from inside
ironwood bowls
Africa has many of the worlds hardest woods ----burn razor sharp tools in seconds

only carbide disc insert last- a few minutes longer!
here is a foto attempt ----to attach ---what a long-winded process!!!

thankyou for the great advice-
acacia

[Wood Collector]

can you upload a pic of you turning with the tool set up how you would normally turn.

[Colin62]

bush dweller--Zululand

Hi Acacia.

Where in Zululand are you? I think there's a woodwork club up in Richards Bay or Empangeni. The club I belong to is in Pietermaritzburg, and if you were able to get down this way, I'll take you along as a guest, and you can meet some other turners and get some tips.

Colin

[ACACIA]

can you upload a pic of you turning with the tool set up how you would normally turn.

OK --- THANKYOU wood collector
have just managed to figure out--post /attach fotos on this forum

I am amazed to see ----all those huge Australian EUCALYPTUS TREES that grow wild here Zululand

-- I assumed the wood was light colored / soft ---only used for power lines /telephone poles etc
I cut a dry piece he other day---just to turn a sample---
to my delight--- I was astounded at the lovely reddish color --and hardness!!

turned a rough bowl from your Eucalypt export ----
here is a foto ---
---just as good as any African-hardwood/ Acacia or teak----
pleasant surprise!

[Richard Hodsdon]

I am a Zululander in Richards Bay where we have a turning club. Meets every 3rd Sat at my workshop. You are more than welcome to join us. Send me a PM and I will let you have all the addresses and details. Where abouts in Zululand are you. Regards Richard

[ACACIA]

Hi Acacia.

Where in Zululand are you? I think there's a woodwork club up in Richards Bay or Empangeni. The club I belong to is in Pietermaritzburg, and if you were able to get down this way, I'll take you along as a guest, and you can meet some other turners and get some tips.

Colin
Thanku Colin ----I live rather isolated Wildlife reserve---near Mozambique S border---will let you know -

-- still learning ---great forum
difficulty is posting fotos here --of amateur home built lathe --tools --

many thanks
Acaca-

[Dalboy]

Thanku Colin ----I live rather isolated Wildlife reserve---near Mozambique S border---will let you know -

-- still learning ---great forum
difficulty is posting fotos here --of amateur home built lathe --tools --

many thanks
Acaca-

Looking at the tools in your first photo in your last post the one on the right is that what you are using to make a bowl if so it is not suitable at all I would suggest that you invest in one that is suitable. Have a look on suppliers of turning tools for bowl gauges

[Mobyturns]

Thankyou for the advice ---
but bowl gouges i bought/ made from tool steel --all dig in very badly on deep hardwood bowls

there must be a universal NON DIG -IN TOO SOMEWHERE?
-- NO more fluted spindle /bowl gouges in my arsenal ----scary ---threw them out!



There is no such thing as a "universal non dig in wood turning tool" if there was we would all be expert wood turners, only needing one tool ever and the tool vendors would not be able to tout the latest "super tool" that will solve all of our problems and would go out of business. :D

The fluted bowl gouges are not the problem - the real problem is the grind on the tools. Bowl gouge grind must be shaped to the task and the style of bowl you are turning. Shallow bowls can be turned with almost any grind shape but deep bowls or the bottoms of vases can only be turned (safely) with a "bottom feeder" style of grind & preferably with the corners relieved such as shown in the image below. The "bottom feeders" steep nose angle allows the turner to "rub the bevel" into much deeper vessels, hence the cutting edge is supported by the bevel and is far less prone to dig in.


358392

[Richard Hodsdon]

Hi Acacia, Are you at Tembe or Ndumu or Kosi. Richard

[ACACIA]

Hi Acacia, Are you at Tembe or Ndumu or Kosi. Richard
Hi Richard --
just visiting relatives here ---
back to Zambia 2 moro ---taking samples o M TIBA --& Mziti---with me to try turn

will keep in touch ---Brachystegia forests north ----have huge varieties of Teak /mahogany ---

will compare
regards -- Acacia

[Richard Hodsdon]

Hi Richard --
just visiting relatives here ---
back to Zambia 2 moro ---taking samples o M TIBA --& Mziti---with me to try turn

will keep in touch ---Brachystegia forests north ----have huge varieties of Teak /mahogany ---

will compare
regards -- Acacia
The timbers we use here in Zululand are obviously Tamboti, Wild Olive and Red Ivory when we get it but the more common are Natal Mahogany (mKuhlu Trichilia Emetica) excellent wood to turn and learn on. The Milkwoods and watrerberry Umdoni turn well but hard on the tools.
The umthiba wood Sherbet tree Zulu podberry dalium Schlectheri turns well . Can't place the umZiti tree. most of the coastal and Sandforest trees are easy to work with especially when green . The Combretum Leadwood, Ironwood Umbondwe etc are as hard as hell but turn well and give a good finish, the teaks such as Kiaat are great. best advice try a piece if no good use as braai wood. Know the Tembe park well as we were Hon Officers there for a good number of years. Regards Richard

[ACACIA]

The timbers we use here in Zululand are obviously Tamboti, Wild Olive and Red Ivory when we get it but the more common are Natal Mahogany (mKuhlu Trichilia Emetica) excellent wood to turn and learn on. The Milkwoods and watrerberry Umdoni turn well but hard on the tools.
The umthiba wood Sherbet tree Zulu podberry dalium Schlectheri turns well . Can't place the umZiti tree. most of the coastal and Sandforest trees are easy to work with especially when green . The Combretum Leadwood, Ironwood Umbondwe etc are as hard as hell but turn well and give a good finish, the teaks such as Kiaat are great. best advice try a piece if no good use as braai wood. Know the Tembe park well as we were Hon Officers there for a good number of years. Regards Richard

Hi Richard---


Yep ---nice hardwood here ---Tamboti /Umfomoti(false tamboti) turn nicely ---with my home -made
truck leaf spring / & U bolt toolsi quickly made --to test these tough woods

but Umkuhlu ( natal mahogany -)---cut a huge old tree --disappointed with the pale dull wood--no color???
--however ----- uMZITI -- is fabulous ---hard heavy ---
cannot find red ivory yet----must be some here---tree are obviously protected here--except
dead /storm damaged giants
Zambia has the prince of teak ---Mulombwa---or Kiaat s you call it here --
huge stands of Pterocarpus Angolensis----are found on upper Zambezi--

sadly ---foreign sawmills are decimating the brachystegia forests--near my home
here is a foto of MZITI lamp -- I turned recently---amazing color ---heavy -

I am struggling with a UMTIBA log ----burns out all my glass -hard files /sharpest tools in seconds
---and its still WET !
- Blunted a new chainsaw blade ---in a few minutes!!
nothing will cut the heartwood --maybe fancy carbide tool tip? ----
must be the hardest wood on earth --all Zulus here say ---"not nice --blunts axes "
so obviously --the wet wood must contain SILICA CRYSTALS ---- like Zambezi teak--Livingstone area

I gave up ----extremely hard --cast iron is softer!
here is UMZITI--- LAMP( made a rifle stock from another tree here ---cannot find species )
REGARDS --- bowl & one metre lamp ---both UMZITI wood --crocodile bark -common in Makatini sand forests---near Sodwana--my opinion --best S A WOOD!

Acacia

[Richard Hodsdon]

Hi Acacia, can't place the uMziti tree yet. Sometime the jackalberry tree is referred to as the Crocodile Bark Jackalberry (Diospyros mespiliformis) . There is a natalensis sub specie here in KZN haven't tried it yet.The wood looks very nice. Regarding Natal mahogany mkhuhu it really looks great when it spalts, New wood dries to an even golden brown,. The photos are of the Spalted Natal Mahogany.. Regards Richard

[ACACIA]

Hi Acacia, can't place the uMziti tree yet. Sometime the jackalberry tree is referred to as the Crocodile Bark Jackalberry (Diospyros mespiliformis) . There is a natalensis sub specie here in KZN haven't tried it yet.The wood looks very nice. Regarding Natal mahogany mkhuhu it really looks great when it spalts, New wood dries to an even golden brown,. The photos are of the Spalted Natal Mahogany.. Regards Richard

Well I am stunned ----how on earth did u cut this hardwood?
really nice color----nice result----- got to try gouging with another tool--carbide for sure--(see foto)

CAN YOU find me a source of CARBIDE DISC CUTTERS--( INSERTS) 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch
somewhere in Durban?
I can drill /tap my own shaft to fit the bolt on discs---
really appreciate
( ACACIA)

[ACACIA]

Hi Acacia, can't place the uMziti tree yet. Sometime the jackalberry tree is referred to as the Crocodile Bark Jackalberry (Diospyros mespiliformis) . There is a natalensis sub specie here in KZN haven't tried it yet.The wood looks very nice. Regarding Natal mahogany mkhuhu it really looks great when it spalts, New wood dries to an even golden brown,. The photos are of the Spalted Natal Mahogany.. Regards Richard

Apologies ---- Richard ---
thought the 2 bowls were MTIBA wood

---so how big must a Natal Mahogany be --ie DIAMETER---
or how old ----before it develops that SPALTED- color?

many pieces I turned were all pale /whitishcolor

the big ones are found in Central Province --- Zambia

maybe you are using seasoned logs?

ok ---will contact again---from up North----
look up the stunning Kahya NYASICA---( African snake bean tree)
--resemlbles EBONY ---with golden streaks--makes super lamps

ok --can you find a supplier of CARBIDE DISC INSERTS ?---down here?

gave up cutting a bowl out of UMTIBA---

regards - Acacia
( A ema

[Richard Hodsdon]

Acacia have a look at this video by Prof Seri Robinson on Spalting http://youtu.be/PZUir8hWvnI she explains it pretty well. also google her papers on the subject. Richard

[ACACIA]

Thanku Richard--
will study video --

only seen fotos spalted European beech

---- weird effect but rather nice---had no idea it WAS found in Africa--

I cannot find any suppler of those CARBIDE DISC INSERT for gouging bowls

all my best tools blunted by UMTIBA
- appreciate a email --or contact #-where did you purchase your bowl gouge carbides ?
amazing ---
we are same age---!

[hughie]

If your internet connection allows spend time on Youtube there are 100's of videos on wood turning. Also look around for books on the fundamentals ie Keith Rowleys book. If not plan to get somewhere where it is, OK I know the isolation is not a great help. But a couple of hours watching 'how to videos' could make a huge difference.

When your there then the guys here can give plenty of references/links etc on Youtube to save you looking :2tsup:

I would not be too concerned on the quality of your tools till you get good at sharpening and the lower quality ones are perfect for this. Low quality = low cost :U you dont want to be grinding away your high quality steel learning the basics .

But getting back to your dig in question it sounds like you have a angle problem on the tools. This is where a book on the fundamentals can be a great reference tool

[ACACIA]

If your internet connection allows spend time on Youtube there are 100's of videos on wood turning. Also look around for books on the fundamentals ie Keith Rowleys book. If not plan to get somewhere where it is, OK I know the isolation is not a great help. But a couple of hours watching 'how to videos' could make a huge difference.

When your there then the guys here can give plenty of references/links etc on Youtube to save you looking :2tsup:

I would not be too concerned on the quality of your tools till you get good at sharpening and the lower quality ones are perfect for this. Low quality = low cost :U you dont want to be grinding away your high quality steel learning the basics .

But getting back to your dig in question it sounds like you have a angle problem on the tools. This is where a book on the fundamentals can be a great reference tool

THANKYOU so much --Hughie---appreciate your sage advice
I studied Keith Rowleys book---
used all his sharpening jig /copied his spindle gouges ---but as you say --its my heath Robinson
scrap DIY bush forged leaf spring tools ---that are of poor quality(pensioner)

but this hardwood defies logic ----borrowed 2 bowl gouges from a pro --200 km away
-----blunted in seconds ----but only on this UMTHIBA bowl ----
( if it blunts a chainsaw ---then my tool sharpening technique ( kEITH ROWLEY JIG) -- is not to blame)

will wait till Richard Hodgson--- finds me a carbide disc insert----supplier
then will see how to hollow this wet piece----obviously ---as my friend in Gympie Queensland points out
is typical of some silica crystal laced African hardwood he experienced in Zambia--

he claims---some Japanese timber is famous for blunting huge tungsten -tipped sawmill blades--he notes
this wood species--is the piece that shattered my carpus wrist bones--vicious dig-in

better wait---for superman TUNGSTEN CArbide-- TO battle with this bad boy!--will let u know result
thankyou ---wil persevere
Acacia

[hughie]

Hopefully you can find a good source of tungsten as I understand the need with hard wood :U I turn a lot of Australian hard wood with its fair share of silica and tungsten is the only way to go atleast with roughing out.

Its to hear you have a decent .... well good looking timber to play with :U I think you have picked one of the best forums here , as its one of the most active on the net. Will looking forward to seeing what you come up with :2tsup:

[Paul39]

Acacia,

A saw shop that sharpens and replaces carbide tips could braze a tip on a piece of 8 X 8 mm or 12 X 12 mm rod for a roughing scraper. You would need a grinding wheel specific to grinding carbide, or a diamond business card sized pad to hand sharpen.

If you have a torch that will melt brass rod or silver solder you could do the brazing yourself.

Here is a photo of brazed carbide shapes used for metal turning.

http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/brazed_carbide_tool_bits_quarter_inch.jpg

One of these soft soldered into a piece of water pipe would do for roughing.

You might also try a square file of the above sizes. Grind like the photos below.

With a smaller tip presented to the blank, you are getting more cutting pressure and less kickback. Also having the tool rest barely away from the turning blank will lessen the up force on the handle.

The photos below are tools I used to make bowls before I bought a bowl gouge. The larger is 16mm square and was a file some one made into a bench chisel, that I ground to a Bedan looking tool.

The smaller is about 11mm square and was a piece of mystery metal that I pulled out of the scrap.

Both do well on hard and soft wood, and have surprised me on dry black locust stump, which takes up silica and is quite abrasive.

If you make tools as above from high carbon steel - spring steel, and they dull quickly, try heating 12mm of the tip to a red heat and quickly plunge into water, swishing around. This will get the tip as hard as it can be made, even brittle.

Use with the least bit of overhang from the tool rest and don't use on an interrupted cut, as it may snap the end off.

I notice some of the tools in your photos do not have ferrules. A catch with one of those could break the tool out of the handle and flip it up into your face.

I make ferrules of scrap copper tube, copper tube coupling, steel tubing, and electrical conduit. Water pipe would also do, but is a bit thick for the purpose.

Mild steel wire or # 12 or 14 copper house wiring would also

work.

The shiny slab on the bowl below is a 300 mm high speed steel cutter from a jointer - planer made into a scraper. The finish on the bowl is from that tool.

It is 11mm thick and heavy so that it does not chatter. A 40mm wide piece of heavy truck spring ground to a gentle curve would do.

[Richard Hodsdon]

I will be away for a few days seeing the Namaqualand wildflowers will contact you then
Richard hodsdon

[ACACIA]

Acacia,

A saw shop that sharpens and replaces carbide tips could braze a tip on a piece of 8 X 8 mm or 12 X 12 mm rod for a roughing scraper. You would need a grinding wheel specific to grinding carbide, or a diamond business card sized pad to hand sharpen.

If you have a torch that will melt brass rod or silver solder you could do the brazing yourself.

Here is a photo of brazed carbide shapes used for metal turning.

http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/brazed_carbide_tool_bits_quarter_inch.jpg

One of these soft soldered into a piece of water pipe would do for roughing.

You might also try a square file of the above sizes. Grind like the photos below.

With a smaller tip presented to the blank, you are getting more cutting pressure and less kickback. Also having the tool rest barely away from the turning blank will lessen the up force on the handle.

The photos below are tools I used to make bowls before I bought a bowl gouge. The larger is 16mm square and was a file some one made into a bench chisel, that I ground to a Bedan looking tool.

The smaller is about 11mm square and was a piece of mystery metal that I pulled out of the scrap.

Both do well on hard and soft wood, and have surprised me on dry black locust stump, which takes up silica and is quite abrasive.

If you make tools as above from high carbon steel - spring steel, and they dull quickly, try heating 12mm of the tip to a red heat and quickly plunge into water, swishing around. This will get the tip as hard as it can be made, even brittle.

Use with the least bit of overhang from the tool rest and don't use on an interrupted cut, as it may snap the end off.

I notice some of the tools in your photos do not have ferrules. A catch with one of those could break the tool out of the handle and flip it up into your face.

I make ferrules of scrap copper tube, copper tube coupling, steel tubing, and electrical conduit. Water pipe would also do, but is a bit thick for the purpose.

Mild steel wire or # 12 or 14 copper house wiring would also

work.

The shiny slab on the bowl below is a 300 mm high speed steel cutter from a jointer - planer made into a scraper. The finish on the bowl is from that tool.

It is 11mm thick and heavy so that it does not chatter. A 40mm wide piece of heavy truck spring ground to a gentle curve would do.

WOW -- I thought I was alone --using truck leaf-spring blades ground into chisels& gouges/scrapers etc

love that copper ferrule idea ---3/4 copper tube is great ----busy reinforcing all my bush acacia handles
----you re spot on ---they all show cracks ---from dig ins

sadly ---no response from carbide tip supplier in this country --they are not interested in small orders
from bush /backwoods wood lovers

but I have just kept sharpening --/cutting/ that silica laden piece---
only the outer side is now showing its true beauy----
see fotos ----- simply keep cutting away with modified bastard files(funny name)?

thankyou so much for all the superb ideas---& feedback---really appreciate

( silica --research --- I did recently---)
google--African teak /mahogany hardwoods --THE WOOD DATABASE--- reveals the nasty silica content
is very common world -wide ----

the piece ---in my foto ---is Spalted---dialium SCHLECTERI---- nightmare -hard as Rhodesian Mkuse
teak
SO I am not alone ---DIY tools /lathe---good news---not all can afford fancy Myford wood lathes
so ---improvise---and --reinforce flimsy tool rests ---copy the masters---serendipity?
regards--- ACACIA

[Paul39]

Acacia,

This guy sells carbide cutters by mail:

http://eddiecastelin.com/cutters_only

I don't know if shipping would make the price prohibitive. He may know a source in SA.

Is the the scale you put in your photos inches or centimeters? I think in mostly inches, and convert for the Aussie turners.

Your tools don't look to be overheated in sharpening, so this may not apply: carbon steel tools can have the tips annealed by overheating in the sharpening process, especially if there is a thin section like a skew.

Also the thin points on skews and gouges may get so overheated by cutting hard silica filled wood they may be annealed and quickly dulled.

Try making a square scraper like my mystery metal one with the end ground back about 80 degrees. The fat end will conduct heat away from the cutting edge and may stay sharp longer.

I roughed out 5 rounds of dry rock maple, and hollowed one with the mystery metal scraper today. The maple is not abrasive but very dense and hard. Average dried weight: 44 lbs/ft3 (705 kg/m3)<wbr>. With the sharpening and cutting for a couple of hours the scraper got too hot to hold at the end.

I have an 8 inch 1725 rpm dry grinder at the end of my lathe that runs the whole time I am turning. When roughing, I cut until the cutting slows, quick zip on the grinder, back to cutting.

When doing finish cuts, sharpen then one or two passes on the bowl, then resharpen.

Before sanding hard timber, sharpen and hone and take very light tissue paper thin light cuts, one or two passes.

Peter Child from the UK wrote The Craftsman Woodturner in 1971. I found a used copy a couple years ago, and found it most helpful because that was before all the new and expensive wood turning stuff was available.

There is a 1998 edition which does NOT have all the tips and techniques of the old one. There is also a 1979 edition, and a 1984 edition. Look for the oldest one you can find. I think mine is the 1977 reprint of the 1971 but I can't find where it is hiding.

A couple of the older covers

http://images.cloud.worthpoint.com/wpimages/images/images1/360/0311/31/360_09b0673680ada785a4135c2beb9f7662.jpg

http://images.cloud.worthpoint.com/wpimages/images/images1/360/1012/15/360_4b252a57b512d165d49d6ccdc7378d78.jpg

Here is his company which I think is run by his son.

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/

[Allen Neighbors]

Hello, Acacia,
Been a while since I was on this forum. Bear with me while I try to explain a tool I used recently to hollowa bowl from start to finish. I did it because in Japan it is common to use a scraper to hollow a bowl. But you can't get very deep with a normally flat spindle scraper, because when you reach across the tool rest about 3 inches deep, you'll get a lot of chatter. Therefore, you need a scraper with a shaft that is about 3/4 inch in diameter, which you can roll to present the edge to the wood without catching. I'll try to get you a pic, but here's how I made my scraper:
I used a 3/4" i.d. pipe for the handle. I have two grub screws in the end to hold the shaft, and allow for shortening or lengthening the shaft as necessary.
The shaft is made from either hot or cold rolled steel (can't remember which -not important) 3/4 inch in diameter, about 12" long.
I used a hack saw to cut a centered slot in the end of the shaft about 2.5 inches deep.
Then I used a Dremel tool with a Metal Cutting Blade to widen the slot to about 1/8 inch wide about 3/4 inch deep at the end of the shaft.
Then I drilled a hole perpendicular to, and through the slot, just below the widened portion of the slot. I used a 1/4" bit through one side, to the slot, then used a bit that is appropriate (I can't remember the exact size) for tapping the other side for a 1/4 x 20 tpi bolt as a grub screw.
I made a scraper from a 1.5 inch of a planer blade, and sharpened it for the tool bit.
The tool bit fits in the slot and is clamped tight with the grub screw.
I can reach across the rest about 8 or 9 inches with it, depending upon the sharpness of the cutter, the speed of the lathe, and the lightness of the cut.
Hope this helps you somewhat...
Cheers,
Uncle Al

[Ron Rutter]

Acacia. First off, why deal with difficult wood when there is so much variety out there.
Spaulting is caused by bacteria in decaying wood. You can initiate it- do some research ( ref. above). If it goes to far the wood is worthless.

I would not extend any tool any more than 2" over the tool rest. Get/ make a curved tool rest.

Check out "Oland Tool". Easy to make if you can access 1/4" squre HSS & 3/4" keysteel ( or equal) and an excellent all around tool.
Ron.

[ACACIA]

Hello, Acacia,
Been a while since I was on this forum. Bear with me while I try to explain a tool I used recently to hollowa bowl from start to finish. I did it because in Japan it is common to use a scraper to hollow a bowl. But you can't get very deep with a normally flat spindle scraper, because when you reach across the tool rest about 3 inches deep, you'll get a lot of chatter. Therefore, you need a scraper with a shaft that is about 3/4 inch in diameter, which you can roll to present the edge to the wood without catching. I'll try to get you a pic, but here's how I made my scraper:
I used a 3/4" i.d. pipe for the handle. I have two grub screws in the end to hold the shaft, and allow for shortening or lengthening the shaft as necessary.
The shaft is made from either hot or cold rolled steel (can't remember which -not important) 3/4 inch in diameter, about 12" long.
I used a hack saw to cut a centered slot in the end of the shaft about 2.5 inches deep.
Then I used a Dremel tool with a Metal Cutting Blade to widen the slot to about 1/8 inch wide about 3/4 inch deep at the end of the shaft.
Then I drilled a hole perpendicular to, and through the slot, just below the widened portion of the slot. I used a 1/4" bit through one side, to the slot, then used a bit that is appropriate (I can't remember the exact size) for tapping the other side for a 1/4 x 20 tpi bolt as a grub screw.
I made a scraper from a 1.5 inch of a planer blade, and sharpened it for the tool bit.
The tool bit fits in the slot and is clamped tight with the grub screw.
I can reach across the rest about 8 or 9 inches with it, depending upon the sharpness of the cutter, the speed of the lathe, and the lightness of the cut.
Hope this helps you somewhat...
Cheers,
Uncle Al

Thankyou so much----- Uncle AL

VERY interesting idea --3/4 pipe--with insert ---so it can ROLL on th tool rest --the deeper
one hollows!--sounds worth making ---quite easy

but --puzzled by the tool bit ----you say "planer blade "---1.5 inch?

1 -- question ---what kind of PLANER?-- a std hand held wood planer?

or the long narrow 5--7mm thick power planer --large or small duty? Bosch

canyou show me fotos of the scale ---close -up --/source of the scraper tool blade insert
you ground down from a plner blade?

the pipe handle&slot/grub bolt are st forward----

just confused over the piece you clamp in the slot

most grateful for that super idea -- --
regards--
ACACIA
( HERE are fotos of Khaya Nyasica ( MPINGA )Blackwood ---( false EBONY )
I Uses to carve back in Zambia ---1974 ---1994---lotsa nice hardwood --in N ZAMBIA
--TALL forests ---brachysegia ---lot of silica --in maNY NICE woods

[Allen Neighbors]

Thankyou so much----- Uncle AL

VERY interesting idea --3/4 pipe--with insert ---so it can ROLL on th tool rest --the deeper
one hollows!--sounds worth making ---quite easy

but --puzzled by the tool bit ----you say "planer blade "---1.5 inch?

1 -- question ---what kind of PLANER?-- a std hand held wood planer?

or the long narrow 5--7mm thick power planer --large or small duty? Bosch

canyou show me fotos of the scale ---close -up --/source of the scraper tool blade insert
you ground down from a plner blade?

the pipe handle&slot/grub bolt are st forward----

just confused over the piece you clamp in the slot

most grateful for that super idea -- --
regards--
ACACIA
( HERE are fotos of Khaya Nyasica ( MPINGA )Blackwood ---( false EBONY )
I Uses to carve back in Zambia ---1974 ---1994---lotsa nice hardwood --in N ZAMBIA
--TALL forests ---brachysegia ---lot of silica --in maNY NICE woods

Sorry for the confusion, Acacia. The blade is one I lopped off of a 8" long jointer blade. Sorry that I called it a planer blade. A friend gave me two or three of these jointer blades that he picked up in a box of stuff at a yard sale. They are 8" long by 3/4" wide. I cut off a piece about 1 1/2 " long with a cutoff blade on a Dremel tool.
I can adjust the length of the tool shaft by pushing it into the 3/4" pipe handle. The pipe handle has two grub screws to tighten on the tool shaft.
Hope this clears things up a bit. Again, I'm sorry that I said planer instead of Jointer. Planer blade steel would work also, because they are HSS too.
That's some mighty good looking wood, and wood turnings!
Uncle Al

[Paul39]

Acacia,

I just stumbled upon a photo of the sort of brazed carbide tool I have been referring to.

This project was the brazing of a rectangular blank into a steel holder for use as a scraper. The carbide was brazed into place and then the bevel was ground on the front face.



http://blog.carbideprocessors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/braze-failure1.jpg

(http://blog.carbideprocessors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/braze-failure1.jpg)This kind of diamond sharpener would sharpen the carbide bit.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/35591304?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=53&adid=22222222227023682163&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52395657855&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=79480106175&veh=sem


(http://www.walmart.com/ip/35591304?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=53&adid=22222222227023682163&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52395657855&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=79480106175&veh=sem)
See below for tool bits.

http://www.edx.co.za/miniwebs2010/mw.aspx/toolquip/brochure/2 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/35591304?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=53&adid=22222222227023682163&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52395657855&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=79480106175&veh=sem)

[ACACIA]

Sorry for the confusion, Acacia. The blade is one I lopped off of a 8" long jointer blade. Sorry that I called it a planer blade. A friend gave me two or three of these jointer blades that he picked up in a box of stuff at a yard sale. They are 8" long by 3/4" wide. I cut off a piece about 1 1/2 " long with a cutoff blade on a Dremel tool.
I can adjust the length of the tool shaft by pushing it into the 3/4" pipe handle. The pipe handle has two grub screws to tighten on the tool shaft.
Hope this clears things up a bit. Again, I'm sorry that I said planer instead of Jointer. Planer blade steel would work also, because they are HSS too.
That's some mighty good looking wood, and wood turnings!
Uncle Al

thanyou for the help ---Appreciate--

er --- sorry --- I am not familiar the term " JOINTER"
I can only assume its a large industrial power tool ? maybe a router?
or a special power planer blade ---modified to mill out tenon wood joints?

apologies --I live very rural ---bush w/shop
ok ---I will google the term JOINTER --- a foto of the blade piece /dimensions/machine
would clarify ---

thanyou for the great idea ---the handle part is complete --- just have to get the thickness of the HSS
Piece that fits into the slot
grateful
ACACIA

[ACACIA]

OK -- GOT it
jointer-------is a planer !----not a milling machine--you call a planer ----a jointer!

industrial /large -----the robust opposing blades are approx 7 mm thick HSS steel
thankyu------appreciate
will find a blade
ACacia

[Richard Hodsdon]

Hi Acacia, back at home from seeing the Namaqualand spring flowers. Send me a PM with your email address, I have a "pile " of old Tungsten Carbide tips with I can mail to you. Regards Richard

[Richard Hodsdon]

Hi Acacia; Have managed to identify mZiti . It is False Tambotie ; or Bastard Tamboti ; uMzithi in Zulu Cleisanthus schlecteri and as you say common in Zululand especially on the Makatini flats of Maputuland. Regards; Richar