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View Full Version : Router Choice: OF 2000 v's OF 1400



Richardwoodhead
30th July 2005, 12:03 PM
I've given up trying to get my Triton router to work properly. I'm looking at the Festool plunge rounters - either the OF 2000 or OF 1400. I'm looking for a top quality hand held router for morticing & edge work, mainly in dry jarrah (hard).

Does anyone have an opinion as to which of these Festool routers is best for hand held routing in hard woods? Is the OF 1400 sufficiently grunty / and best for precision hand work? Is the more powerful OF 2000 not as user frienfly for precision work? Do they both operate in the festool guide rail system?

Any info much appreciated.

Thanks,

Richard

nt900
30th July 2005, 05:31 PM
Hi Richard,

No brainer - the OF1400 for hand routing, even hard timbers. Unless you really need the grunt and extra robustness of the OF2000 router, the OF1400 is the way to go. The OF1400 has plenty of power for router table work as well, takes 1/2 inch bits, easy to hold, great features like ratchet collet loosening/tightening (auto locking shaft).

This may sound like a blatant advertisement (and it is), but take a look at this page at Ideal Tools for more info on the OF1400.

http://www.idealtools.com.au/category3502_1.htm (http://www.idealtools.com.au/category3502_1.htm)

Click the Info button at the bottom and there is a PDF Brochure and User Manual to look at.The OF1400 is also cheaper.

Richardwoodhead
31st July 2005, 12:53 AM
Anthony, thanks for the response & info. I'm ready for a quality router and Festool looks like a good option. (My Festool random orbital 150/EQ is my favorite sander, so I appreciate festool quality)

Excuse my ignorance - but a "dumb" question... for the other routers I've owned - I've built special purpose jigs for morticing, trenching, jointing, etc. Mostly, these jigs have been built to size for the circular base of my router (180mm diameter). Given that the OF 1400 base is not circular & probably not 180mm - my jigs will likely be redundant. However -... it looks like festool make lots of accessories (guide plates, attachments, etc) that might be able to be used for some of these tasks. Is this correct?

Also, what are copying rings? (I took up woodworking late in life!!).

Thanks,

Richard

Rocker
31st July 2005, 08:06 AM
Richard,

I can't remember if I sent you the plans for my morticing jig; but my jig would not be made redundant if you used a router with a different-sized base-plate. The scales for the stops that control the length of the mortice are placed so that their zero mark is the same distance from the centre-line of the jig as the radius of your base-plate. But you could easily make allowance for it, if you used a different router.

Rocker

Milty
31st July 2005, 08:47 AM
Hi Richard
The Of1400 is definitely the way to go as long as you do not over exert the router in the sense of overplunging-cutting too deep at a time-she will go the distance with you the system of festool has been designed in such a way that whatever festool system you use the system will fit the guide rail and/or accesories.
Drop us a line if you have questions in this regard
Kind regards
Milty Sauerman

nt900
31st July 2005, 11:30 AM
Starting with the easiest question to answer; the copy ring enables you to copy a template shape onto a workpiece. The template could be curved and complex, or straight edge. See images below. Also of interest is the copy attachment, also image below.

As for accessories; Festool has a great range of accessories; but more importantly as Milty points out, Festool tools become part of a system. In my opinion the greatest advantage of the Festool router is teaming it up with the guide rail, and if you can afford it or have the need, teaming both the router and guide rail up with the Multifunciton Table. I think of them as a big and versatile ‘mega-jig’. If that makes sense. Rather than strap your router to a small jig, you embed your router into a workstation. Unlike a router table you fix your work to the table and move the router over the work piece. Unlike regular hand routing, the guide rail/table combo guides and supports the router while it works. Now I love router tables, but this system that Festool has created makes life working with larger pieces a breeze, safer and more accurate.

That is the system, sort of. The further advantage is the system extends to many of their other tools. For example you can use the same Multifuntion Table and guide rail setup with their circular saws.

Now back to the question of OF1400 v OF2000, both work with the guide rail and Multifunction Table, so the extra weight of the 2000 is not necessarily a problem. But I still think the innovative features of the OF1400 are fantastic and hence why I prefer the OF1400.

I will soon be placing an article abut using the Multifunction Table and Guide Rails (for both routing and sawing) up on our web site. So hopefully this will explain it better than my above scribbles.

Now the difficult question; your jigs. I am not sure if the Festool router bases being circular with opposite side straightened would be a problem if the bases are close to the 180mm of your current router. I do not have my OF1400 handy to check. But I will do so and let you know its dimensions. Are you using Rocker’s jig or other shop make ones?

Rocker – tell us more about your jig please.

Rocker
31st July 2005, 01:42 PM
Anthony,

See this thread for my morticing jig:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=5633

Rocker

Richardwoodhead
1st August 2005, 10:55 AM
Anthony / Rocker, thanks for all the info.

My morticing jig should work with any router base (I'll just have to change my settings to account for new spacing from router centre to guide fence). Rockers jig is probably the most popular one around. A few years back I adapted my own morticing jig design by combining ideas from a few articles in FWW mag. Probably not as accurate as Rockers, but works for me. I havn't built Rockers yet, though one of these days I'm going to take the time. It looks really accurate. I can see some similarities with my own jig. (Rocker, wish you were closer & we could meet to compare ideas and talk wood!).

The only jigs that will become redundant are likely my cross-cutting / trenching jigs. But I was hoping the guide rail system would enable quick & accurate set-up & routing on surfaces. I was / am intending to invest in a guide rail if I go Festool.

I'm VERY interested in your comments re the Multifunction Table. Can you post some links so I can take a look. (I'll also search the Festool links you posted. Maybe it's already in there someplace?). When you say "our website" - which one is that?

Being somewhat isolated in the "bush" it makes it harder to gather info. I'm off to Perth next week and hope to get a handle on how the complete Festool system works. What I need is a pro like yourself who understands from the woodworking side what the best way to go is. I'm happy to make the $ investment, but want only to purchase what I can really use for my needs. That's where hands-on / face to face discussion would help. Along with all the info I can read up on.

Keep me posted on the Multifunction Table.

Thanks,

Richard

Carpenter
7th August 2005, 10:36 AM
Richard, I am a carpenter & own the OF 2000. I bought it because i needed a powerful tool for heavy work. I've burned out less powerful routers trying to do this type of work with 1200watts of power. The OF 1400 is a fine looking router & I'm sure you'll love it, but as always its horses for courses. Pushing a large bit through timber needs power, so if you do fine & heavy work you may need 2 routers. The of2000 is beautiful to use & is so far ahead of the competition (like most festool stuff) you soon forget the pain of parting with the cash and revell in the pleasure of using well designed & engineered equipment.

Richardwoodhead
7th August 2005, 11:30 AM
Thanks Carpenter. The only "heavy" work I do is morticing and the occasional trenching job in door styles & rails. For deep mortices (say 60mm), I'd go down in a number of passes. From what I can tell, the OF 1400 will have enough grunt. Most of my other router work involves less demanding edge work and surface grooves, etc. Sounds like you need a more powerful unit and hence the OF2000.

Richard

Peter T
12th August 2005, 12:40 PM
Richard
I bit the bullet and bought the OF1400 as I was pretty specific with my requirements. I was not all that impressed with the 2000 but that is not to say that it isn't any good.
I too use it for mortising, edging etc and the size, weight and power is well suited for this type of work. The position and layout of the handles and power switch are very good for comfort and control and the plunge is very smooth and controllable.
I agree with Anthony, the OF1400 would be go for you if your not into really heavy stuff. I'm sure you would be very happy with it.

NewLou
12th August 2005, 01:12 PM
Gidday Richard :)

Heres a link to masterwoodworker david marks making a frame & panel door (Out of Jarrah!)...............Check out the plunge router he is using:

http://www.diynet.com/diy/ww_shelves_cabinets/article/0,2049,DIY_14444_2278834,00.html

I really do question the need for plunging mortises deeper than 50mm however with the limitations of routers plunging only 50mm I guess collet extensions and long shank bits can be used to extend their limitations!

Go the Dewalt 621 with some of pat Warners subbases........you won't be disappointed!!!

REgards Lou

Greg Q
12th August 2005, 01:28 PM
Hi Richard...

I am about to pop for a Festool 1400 router myself, after having done the research on the alternatives. This will be my handheld router, if only for the superior dust extraction. (disclaimer: I have a serious Festool bias).

I'm sure that it has been mentioned before, but there is a Festool owner's group on yahoo. On that site are links to the multi-function table uses and a complete manual for same.

The Festool system is more of a slippery slope than others. But then you know that as you have a 150/3

Cheers
Greg

Richardwoodhead
13th August 2005, 11:35 AM
Went up to the woodshow in Perth yesterday. Spent a lot of time looking at routers. Sorry Lou, but I think the Festool OF 1400 is the one. It feels enginered to perfection. The plunge and stop mechanism can be operated without changing hands (the stop is part of the second handle. I love it). But mostly, it's part of an overall "system". So with the guide rail, stops & attachments you can set up quickly for accurate routing. It's not cheap. But it reeks quality. Lou, take a look at the specs and accessories on the OF 1400 if you get a chance.

Richard

Rocker
13th August 2005, 01:53 PM
Richard,

You didn't say whether you actually bought the router. I trust that you took home some solid carbide spiral upcut bits as well.

Rocker

Richardwoodhead
14th August 2005, 12:46 AM
Rocker, good questions. I'll be arranging a delivery in the coming week. I want to get some of the accessories as well.

Would you believe I called ahead to the router people (Linbide) to make sure they'd have the spiral upcut bits. When I got there, no bits. Apparently Linbide don't do many upcuts. I'll be in touch with my carbi-tool rep next week. I was thinking of getting 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and 20mm. Do they come in those sizes? What brand do you use?

Richard

Rocker
14th August 2005, 03:20 AM
Richard,

As far as I know, the solid carbide spiral upcut bits are not available in metric sizes, and the largest size in solid carbide is 1/2", although you can get a 3/4" one in HSS. I get mine from Lee Valley, see http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&cat=1,46168,46171,42891&p=42891 . I got the 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. Note that you will also need to buy bushing adapters for the 5/16", and 3/8" ones so that you can use them in a 1/2" collet, you may also need a 1/4" to 1/2" adapter if your router does not have a 1/4" collet. I believe that McJing now stock solid carbide spiral upcut bits in Australia at comparable prices to Lee Valley, but I have not personally bought any from them.

Rocker

Richardwoodhead
14th August 2005, 11:21 AM
Rocker,

Appreciate the feedback. I believe the OF1400 has the 1/4" collet adapter.

Bummer re no metric units. I do all my design work in metric. I find it so much easier. And all my equipment/tools have metric measures. (I could just go with the metric conversion - but then you're working with fractions of mm's, and it gets trickier..) Is HSS OK rather than solid carbide? I'd prefer metric, even if it's HSS. Are spiral upcut bits still somewhat new on the scene, hence less abundant choice and no metric?

Richard

Rocker
14th August 2005, 04:18 PM
Richard,

I am pretty sure that metric solid carbide bits must be available in Italy. Maybe you could try asking CMT, whose stuff is manufactured there. But presumably your router has a 1/2" collet anyway. And the 5/16" bit, the one I use most, is very close to 8 mm. But I do not see that it makes any significant difference whether your mortices are routed in metric or inch sizes. There doesn't seem to me to be any point in making heroic efforts to track down metric router bits.

Rocker

Richardwoodhead
15th August 2005, 09:56 AM
Rocker.

The link below was provided re metric spiral upcut bits. I assume they're HSS.

http://www.idealtools.com.au/category2593_1.htm

Excuse my ignorance.... the solid carbide bits sound like they're super hard and long wearing, but I'm not familiar with solid carbide bits. I think (????) most of the Carbitool and Linbide bits I've used are HSS? I get pretty good use out of them. Can you elaborate on the need for solid carbide spiral upcut bits? (Maybe the bits I've been using are carbide bits and I didn't know it - like I say, I'm ignorant!)

Thanks,

Richard

Richardwoodhead
15th August 2005, 10:34 AM
Rocker, did a search re CarbiTool website. Seems most of their bits are solid carbide. So, I guess I've been using solid carbide bits! Never really thought about it before. Ignorance is bliss.

Thanks,

Richard

ian
16th August 2005, 12:42 AM
Richard
Investigate the CMT spiral bits. Available sizes with ¼in shank are: 3.2, 4.0, 4.75 and 6.35mm diameter. With ½in shank you can get 8.0, 9.5, and 12.7mm diameter.
In their Industrial range, CMT list 8.0, 10.0 and 12.0mm diameter spiral bits with matching shank diameters. You can also get 8, 10, and 12mm collets for the OF 1400. When you unpack it, you should have a 6.35 and 12.7mm collet, check to make sure you have a 12.7 and not a 12mm collet before using ½in shank bits!

ian

Richardwoodhead
16th August 2005, 09:15 AM
Ian, thanks for the info. Do you have any contact info for CMT?

Richard

EDIT.... Did a google search for CMT bits. So have located contact info. Nothing on spiral upcut bts as yet......

Richard

ian
16th August 2005, 09:27 AM
Here in Sydney, Carba-Tec carry CMT bits so you could try Carb-Tec in Perth or mail order from Brisbane. Just be aware that the bits are not cheap, like >$140 for a 10mm bit. on the bright side (?) the 12.7mm bits are a bit cheaper.

ian