Cheap router bits

[Lappa]

Needed to machine 96 holes for dowels. I needed them to be 8mm but couldn't buy a 8mm spiral upcut, downcut or end cutting bit. I had a 1/2" spiral upcut so I bought a cheap 8mm straight cut 2 fluted tungsten bit.
Test run done and the dowel was loose, loose, loose:~

Measured the cheap bit.

360727

Measured the hole

360729

Not only was the router bit oversize, the cutters were off centre as the machined hole was bigger.

Ordered a "proper" 8mm bit and measured that.

360728

Glad I test cut before machining the 96 holes:rolleyes:

[Bob38S]

Not really surprised nor unexpected.

When considered logically, a bit from a reputable maker costs the same as a full set of el-cheaply bits. Something has to give, usually quality and durability are the first.

I liken it to the idea that if you ride motorcycles you buy the very best helmet you can get, yes, this costs but if you feel you have a $10 dollar head - you buy a $10 dollar helmet. Anything spinning at 20000+ revs and me hanging onto it - I buy the best I can afford. If I can't afford it at the moment, then I'll have to wait.

[Yanis]

I had a similar experience from Bunnings. I bought a "12mm" bit and it turned out to be 1/2" (12.7mm).

John

[mark david]

I think this is quite common these days to find router bits that are sold as a metric size but are infact imperial.
A proper Dowel drill for use in routers is probably the best way to cut large numbers of dowel holes.
I custom make my own dowel using a piece of stainless steel strip with various size holes cut in and hammer the timber throught,good for short lengths only,wear safety glasses though as sometimes the wood shatters.

[Lappa]

Re metric/imperial, that's true but I would have expected a 5/16" to be under the 8mm, not over.
I didn't know you could buy dowel drills for routers - their not on the carbitool list, whose bits I normally buy. Where can you buy them please?

[Lappa]

It was impatience that made me buy the cheaply, not cost:rolleyes:. The good one was 2 to 3 days away, the cheap one was 2km away.

[ian]

Re metric/imperial, that's true but I would have expected a 5/16" to be under the 8mm, not over.
I didn't know you could buy dowel drills for routers - their not on the carbitool list, whose bits I normally buy. Where can you buy them please?
https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling-and-boring/dowel-drill-311-080-11

from CMT's US web site:


-Excellent performance on high-speed boring units and CNC routers.

TECHNICAL DETAILS:
-Premium quality super-strength steel.
-Spiral portion coated with orange or black P.T.F.E.
-Extra-fine micrograin carbide spiral portion with centre point.
-2 cutting edges (Z2).
-2 spiral flutes.
-2 curved, negatively ground spurs (V2).

-Parallel shank with driving flat and adjustable screw length.

[Lappa]

https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling-and-boring/dowel-drill-311-080-11

from CMT's US web site:

-Excellent performance on high-speed boring units and CNC routers.

TECHNICAL DETAILS:
-Premium quality super-strength steel.
-Spiral portion coated with orange or black P.T.F.E.
-Extra-fine micrograin carbide spiral portion with centre point.
-2 cutting edges (Z2).
-2 spiral flutes.
-2 curved, negatively ground spurs (V2).

-Parallel shank with driving flat and adjustable screw length.


Unfortunately they are CNC bits with an 10mm shank. Won't fit my router (1/4 and 1/2" only).

[elanjacobs]

Unfortunately they are CNC bits with an 10mm shank. Won't fit my router (1/4 and 1/2" only).
Not that you should even consider using a drill bit designed to run at 3-5k rpm in a router that spins 5 times that speed.
Out of curiosity, why are you boring holes with a router anyway?

[mark david]

A quick trawl of the internet revealed that Festool make them and can be obtained from Amazon.com and in Australia at www.gettoolsdirect.com.au.
I am sure there are other suppliers and munufacturers but found those in a few minutes.

[aldav]

The Festool bits are a ridiculous price - US$32 plus freight (A$47 +) - and you then need a 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer to use it. At 53.5mm long if you are planning to use it with a template and guide bush setup it's not long enough to cut more than 15mm deep. There are better options available at much better prices.
1/2" to 10mm collet reducers are available and allow you to use endmills in your router that are much more economical than 1/2" shanked solid carbide bits.

[Lappa]

Not that you should even consider using a drill bit designed to run at 3-5k rpm in a router that spins 5 times that speed.
Out of curiosity, why are you boring holes with a router anyway?

Easiest way for me to bore 96 holes accurately in the ends of slats and rails.:rolleyes:


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[Lappa]

A quick trawl of the internet revealed that Festool make them and can be obtained from Amazon.com and in Australia at www.gettoolsdirect.com.au (http://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au).
I am sure there are other suppliers and munufacturers but found those in a few minutes.

Thanks for that. Couldn't see shank size on the diagrams. If they are 1/4" or 1/2" then they are about the only specialist ones available locally without going OS so I'll keep them in mind.

[Lappa]

Just looked up the Festool bits. Their 8mm shanks unfortunately :C as Aldav alluded to earlier..

[Evanism]

Carbitool make AWESOME bits. Their catalogue is extensive. :)

[Lappa]

The majority of my bits are Carbitool but unfortunately they didn't have what I required for this task:C. Their catalogue is on my deskrolleyes:
Hence my "two bore" process - hmm - make that 192 bore actions, not 96:D but with the jig set-up it was fast, accurate and painless.

[Evanism]

Maybe for next time, this guy made up an ingenius slot morticer.

It could have done your job just by restricting the horizontal axis...http://youtu.be/2RQcClMWeh4

[Lappa]

Maybe for next time, this guy made up an ingenius slot morticer.

It could have done your job just by restricting the horizontal axis...http://youtu.be/2RQcClMWeh4

To do all the slat ends and rails, looking at his set up, I believe my jig and his would have taken similar times.

My horizontal axis was set by the two side adjusters - slide router to the left, plunge - slide router to the right, plunge and two holes bored to 20mm depth at 10mm from the centre. This setting obviously suited both the rails and slats.
Slat holes
The vertical adjuster was set so when the slat was loaded, it's was centred and height correct. Just flip the clamp to lock, then plunge two holes. Flip the clamp and next slat in and repeat - easy, fast and accurate
Rail holes
Just had to mark 12 centres on the rail then slide to rail to align the centre mark, lock the clamp and plunge left then right, unlock the clamp, slide the rail and repeat. Once again, easy, fast and accurate.

i would however love to make a horizontal mortising jig to mortise the end of long rails. Mounting the jig on the top of the cupboard is wearing thin:D