PDA

View Full Version : Excellent lathe stands.



artful bodger
14th January 2016, 07:57 PM
Finally realised I want to improve/ remake completely my lathe stand. It is the pressed steel type that woodfast supplied in the 70's. It is too low for me ,way below elbow height. As age marches on so does the muscular aches and pains from working too long stooping and stuff like that. I like to have a place behind the lathe to put my chisels, templates,etc,etc on so a free standing set up that you can walk around is not what I am after.
Anyway I would be interested to see any pictures from anyone who reckons they have "nailed" the perfect lathe stand.
Cheers

Sawdust Maker
14th January 2016, 08:08 PM
Sorry can't help as mine is freestanding on cast iron legs, although I've raised it about 3"

However I'm mighty curious about what others might have done

dai sensei
14th January 2016, 11:28 PM
me personally, use a tool trolley, although I have made plenty of mods now. The most popular at Turnabouts is the Gorrila folding stand Gorilla Adjustable Height Work Platform | Bunnings Warehouse (http://www.bunnings.com.au/gorilla-adjustable-height-work-platform_p0861589)

issatree
15th January 2016, 12:14 AM
Hi AB,
The Woodgfast Lathe as I know it, collects a lot of Shavings between the Webs of the Bed.
I wood suggest that you make a Stand out of at least 2x2in. Steel, but make it in such a way that the Lathe sits on Rails, so everything falls through to the floor.
My other suggestion wood be to make a Ducboard out of wood, but with Slats approx. 20-25mm. apart, & if you are R/H, then you need to incorporate a " L " shape for your Left Leg.
My D/B is about 4in.-100mm. high, but has to go on the outside of the left leg of the Lathe.
Mine is approx. 5ft.x 3ft.
So you make the D/B first, then stand on it, then measure from the D/B to your Elbow, so you get the right Height to the Centre of the Lathe.
Thatsmy2senceworth.

orraloon
15th January 2016, 10:10 AM
I built a timber stand based on one in Keith Rowley's book. Plenty solid and no vibration. It does have a flat top so when hollowing out big bowls the shavings can pile up but I also like the top as a place for things when fiddling about changing face plates and chucks and stuff. I am of the view that the wood absorbs the vibration but it has to be heavy like a good workbench.

Regards
John

issatree
15th January 2016, 05:40 PM
Hi AB,
I forgot 1 thing. Where John says about Vibration, well with the Metal Stand, you acquire some Flat Lead used on Roofing.
Cut a sq. about 20x20mm. cut a hole with say, 16mm. with a Wad Punch.
Then cut the Lead from one side to the Hole, & do the same, same side again.
In other words you are creating a Keyhole, so you slip that between the Lathe & the Stand, with the Bolts still in & that should dampen the Vibs.
I got rid of my Wooden Stand, as no matter how much I tightened the bolts, it still came loose.
So my Stand is 8in. x 3in. " C " Channel & 90 x 90mm. Rails.

artful bodger
15th January 2016, 07:14 PM
Was thinking of going for a heavy duty wooden stand.
Issatree, I wonder if you used nylock nuts and maybe even loctite that would get rid of the loosening bolt situation?.

issatree
16th January 2016, 09:29 AM
Hi AB,
I did the bolts up so many times is wasn't funny.
If memory serves me I used Tallow Wood for almost all of it.
It wasn't the bolts coming loose, it was the timber moving all the time.
Anyway the Steel will not move.
I did a lot of Turning in those days, & it drove me crazy, with that wood.
My friend had a Tough Lathe as well & he made his out of wood, Glued, Screwed & Bolted, ended up disgusted with all the work he put into it.
If my belief, Steel is the way to go, so much easier & no Maintenance.
With the lead between the Steels, enough said.

orraloon
16th January 2016, 10:35 AM
I would think if a bolt vibrates loose it does not matter if it is in wood or metal. Spring washers will do the trick either way. As for the question of wood or metal for the stand well there are plenty of both out there all doing the job. I may have gone metal if i had been able to weld and had access to some steel but with nither of those boxes being ticked, the decision was more or less made for me. Cost will also be factor. Anyhow whether wood or steel they both need to have a good bit of mass or you will be chasing it around the floor.
Regards
John

BlackbuttWA
16th January 2016, 03:17 PM
One lathe stand I made was really heavy with no vibration.
100mm x 100mm Jarrah legs & bearers.
250 x 75 Jarrah bed & 2 x 250mm x 75mm Jarrah for the shelf, all bolted together with lock-nuts.
Never moved, & still going good after 10 years.
My latest lathe has cast iron legs.

HTH
Col

artful bodger
16th January 2016, 06:20 PM
Thanks for all the replies. I can see opinion is somewhat divided here. Fully understand the benefits of a stand made from metal however my welding skills are such that I would probably be better off buying a heap of steel wool and some knitting needles and trying to knit myself a metal stand.
I had a look in Mike Darlows' book "The practice of Wood turning" where he has a few pages on the lathe stand. Interestingly he mentions a cast concrete stand but at 2 1/2 tonnes you would not want to move it very often.....You might need to click on the pic to enlarge it as the scan quality is not fantastic.
368689
As timber is usually my preferred medium I was thinking I would go down that road and perhaps make a solid/heavy stand that had no bolts but rather proper woodworking joints.However as some have said timber does move. This one in Mike Darlows' book looks to be thoroughly thought through in the design department however I would put the diagonal brace at the back not the front.
368690
The lathe I want to re- stand is a woodfast like the one in the above picture. It has the factory supplied pressed steel stand with hardwood that the lathe bolts to and a hardwood shelf the motor sits on, it is just hopelessly too low for me. Also because of how it is made It has never been able to be convincingly fastened tightly to the floor. Can't say that any of the bolts that hold it together have ever come loose though.
However my big lathe is fabricated from very heavy steel (stand and all) and I just love how solid it is and how well it grabs onto the floor. So am starting to sway back to a metal stand. Did buy a new arc welder recently but my first simple job seemed to use 10 times more welding rods than a regular welder would use plus lots of grinding that a regular welder would not even have needed to do. Hmmm maybe I need to see a real welder in action and get a few tips.

Paul39
17th January 2016, 12:59 PM
Artful,

I prefer timber stands, free standing with open top so that the shavings fall through. I do bowls so there are lots of shavings.

See below for some designs to look at.

https://www.google.com/search?q=homemade+wood+lathe+stands&client=ubuntu&hs=REz&channel=fs&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiX-cOj3K_KAhWG6iYKHYybCzYQ_AUICCgC&biw=1230&bih=676

I see no problem getting a rigid structure if everything is glued and screwed together. Plywood on the ends and on the back will give diagonal bracing.

I lean toward the saw horse shaped ones with the A shaped ends. You have a triangle shape built in, and with a solid plywood back or an X brace it will be rigid side to side.

rtyuiop
17th January 2016, 02:31 PM
Love that concrete stand! I'm sure there would be serious practical difficulties, but it'd be real fun to build a not-quite-as-solid-as-the-one-pictured version out of concrete and rebar.

Mobyturns
17th January 2016, 10:53 PM
When in NZ last year we visited Rick Taylor's wood turning gallery & studio in Dargaville on the North island. He has his lathe bolted to a cast concrete foundation and then a timber floor built up around the lathe foundation. I didn't take any photos but from memory his lathe is something like a Union Graduate.

If you cant weld maybe you can make the form work for a concrete stand?

plantagenon
18th January 2016, 12:37 PM
No idea what size lathe you have but I sit my Woodfast midi on a work bench which is a homemade timber construction (left over fence posts and thin sleepers) with a sheet of MDF over the timber top (had it for years). I just slide the lathe forward to use it or back to get it out of the way. I have drilled two holes in the bench top to align with the bolt holes on the lathe. When I am using it I drop 2 x 4" bolts through the lathe mounting brackets and into the bench top. That holds the lathe in position without the risk of it moving. No nuts attached (except the one using the lathe) so just pop them out to slide the lathe back. The lathe requires no effort to slide over the MDF surface.

My metal lathe sits beside the wood lathe and I use it in a similar manner. The DC hose mounted onto both lathes via a Y connector with shut off doors has enough length to allow both lathes to slide back and forward. The DC is stored outside out of the weather in a very small Bunnings garden shed that I soundproofed to keep the neighbours smiling :roll:.

The shed is sound proofed and lined so I store the lathe tools horizontally on the wall behind using 2 right angle cup hooks screwed into the wall for each tool. When you only have a 4.2 x 3.5 shed, you have to maximise the available space. BTW, the little fan in the background is to cool the lathe engine on very hot days.




368884

Mobyturns
20th January 2016, 08:13 AM
I have a Woodfast MC908 1992 vintage with the pressed steel cabinet. Being 6'2" I found the lathe spindle height a little low for me and even worse because I like to turn smaller spindle projects. My answer was to simply raise the stand on some 6 x 3" / 150 x 75 mm blocks for fixed position. However now it sits on 4 castors so I can move it about my multi use space.

artful bodger
20th January 2016, 08:29 AM
Hi Moby, so did you raise the height by 6" or 3". Reckon mine needs to come up about 10". I had thought about simply packing it up. Although I'm not the biggest fan of the pressed steel cabinet it does do the job structurally for all but the biggest jobs and luckily I have a heavy duty lathe t do those jobs on.

Paul39
20th January 2016, 11:32 AM
Below is my 20 inch swing short bed Woodfast. It is on two 6 X 6 pieces of pressure treated timber running front to back.

The cabinet has enough weight to keep it in place even with a big out of balance bowl blank. At slow speed with a big blank it gently rocks back and forth.

A 4 X 4 on top of a 6 x 6 would get you almost 10 inches. I got my pieces out of a construction skip.

I like the lathe a little higher than suggested so I can see into the bowls better when hollowing and finishing.

Mobyturns
20th January 2016, 08:40 PM
Hi Moby, so did you raise the height by 6" or 3". Reckon mine needs to come up about 10". I had thought about simply packing it up. Although I'm not the biggest fan of the pressed steel cabinet it does do the job structurally for all but the biggest jobs and luckily I have a heavy duty lathe t do those jobs on.

Only 3" but it needs more. I like to have a nice wide stable block when packing under the lathe.

hughie
20th January 2016, 08:59 PM
Below is my 20 inch swing short bed Woodfast. It is on two 6 X 6 pieces of pressure treated timber running front to back.

The cabinet has enough weight to keep it in place even with a big out of balance bowl blank. At slow speed with a big blank it gently rocks back and forth.

A 4 X 4 on top of a 6 x 6 would get you almost 10 inches. I got my pieces out of a construction skip.

I like the lathe a little higher than suggested so I can see into the bowls better when hollowing and finishing.

Like wise I have mine about 4" above the recommended height for my size. Could never see any future in bending over for for hollowing and as I get older it is handy. Also I tend to make my stands out of wood for vibration control, glued and screwed.

powderpost
20th January 2016, 09:56 PM
The bench for my woodfast 907 lathe was built from timber. I used 100mm x 100mm legs with 100mm x 50mm rails. I have turned blocks 500 x 275 outboard down to lace bobbins on it and it is not even bolted to the floor. The lathe sits on two pieces of 100 x 50 with a space between for shavings to fall through. The end rails are 150mm x 50mm. I fitted a sheet of ply to the front fr bracing. All joints were glued and bolted with two 10mm bolts in each joint. Since 1989, there has been no need to tighten bolts etc. I was careful to use only well seasoned timber.

Hope this has been some help to you.

Jim

369169369170

Mobyturns
21st January 2016, 08:56 AM
The bench for my woodfast 907 lathe was built from timber. I used 100mm x 100mm legs with 100mm x 50mm rails. I have turned blocks 500 x 275 outboard down to lace bobbins on it and it is not even bolted to the floor. The lathe sits on two pieces of 100 x 50 with a space between for shavings to fall through. The end rails are 150mm x 50mm. I fitted a sheet of ply to the front fr bracing. All joints were glued and bolted with two 10mm bolts in each joint. Since 1989, there has been no need to tighten bolts etc. I was careful to use only well seasoned timber.

Hope this has been some help to you.

Jim

369169369170

I've watched PP turn on this lathe & stand - it is solid!

artful bodger
23rd January 2016, 08:04 PM
Today I bit the bullet. I had a length of 3''x8'' well seasoned timber and cut a couple of lengths to put under the standard pressed steel frame to raise the lathe by 8 inches.
Only sat the lathe on the bits of wood and "no way Jose' " that is way too high (about an inch or so above lowest bent elbow height).
Took 50mm off the height and it still seemed somewhat high.
Mike Darlows' book which seems pretty sensible says to have the spindle centreline height at elbow height or just above.
What do you guys think?
Anyone have their lathe set up so the axis is at elbow height? or just above.
Maybe I have got use to it being too low and the correct height will make more sense with time?

Paul39
24th January 2016, 05:49 AM
Artful,

I'd leave it up high and use it for a session or three. I think you may have gotten used to having it low.

Mine is a little above bent elbow hight to make it easier to see into and cut the inside of bowls and hollow things.

I sometimes get so engrossed in roughing out bowls I don't notice I'm standing on 6 inches of shavings until my back hurts from hunching over the lathe.

I think the hight is a matter of what is comfortable for you. As long as a practice is not unsafe, all the rules are just suggestions. For the cutting tools to work they have to be presented at a certain angle to the round rotating part. The tool can come from below, the side, or above and still cut. Find the most comfortable one or ones and go from there.

BobL
24th January 2016, 10:35 AM
Mike Darlows' book which seems pretty sensible says to have the spindle centreline height at elbow height or just above.
What do you guys think?
Anyone have their lathe set up so the axis is at elbow height? or just above.
Maybe I have got use to it being too low and the correct height will make more sense with time?

I originally had my Woodfast mini set up about 150mm below elbow height but when I built a new bench for it I made it so the spindle was at elbow height and it took a little getting used to.

I posted a lathe height related question back in 2012 when I built my bench and got a few response
See http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/height-ww-lathe-chuck-149650?highlight=Woodfast+bench

A while back I was speaking to some turners and they said that some problems may arise as (especially new) turners tire.
If the lathe is too low they move in closer and tend to hunch over the lathe which can be dangerous.

Ny new custom made stand is welded SHS - full details here http://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/bobls-shed-fit-134670/20#post1506068
The frame and top looks kinda lightweight but it weighs more than 60kg.
The oversized motor is also located under the bench top which further increase the stability.
I had planned to add more weight under the bench but I have never felt the need to do this as most of my work is spindle sized stuff.

Mobyturns
24th January 2016, 11:20 AM
If the lathe is too low they move in closer and tend to hunch over the lathe which can be dangerous.


Also not very good for the back. I can really notice how long that I can stay turning when I change lathes and lathe spindle heights. My shoulders tire quite quickly when turning on too low a spindle height.

When setting up your lathe spindle height don't forget to factor in the depth of anti-fatigue mats and the heel/sole height of safety shoes if you wear them regularly.

derekcohen
24th January 2016, 01:13 PM
Finally realised I want to improve/ remake completely my lathe stand. It is the pressed steel type that woodfast supplied in the 70's. It is too low for me ,way below elbow height. As age marches on so does the muscular aches and pains from working too long stooping and stuff like that. I like to have a place behind the lathe to put my chisels, templates,etc,etc on so a free standing set up that you can walk around is not what I am after.
Anyway I would be interested to see any pictures from anyone who reckons they have "nailed" the perfect lathe stand.
Cheers

I have been very happy with the wooden stand I built for my Jet Mini 7 years ago. You might consider a larger version. The design is very rigid and relatively easy to build (if you do not use handtools, as I did!) ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/AStandformyJetMiniLathe_html_m698e7c99.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/AStandformyJetMiniLathe_html_4d4d236e.jpg

The link to the build is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/AStandformyJetMiniLathe.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

artful bodger
24th January 2016, 07:47 PM
Thanks guys for all of the constructive advice. I think the main thing is that I have had the same machine since the 70's and have just used it as it came from the factory. Seem to be using it more than ever now as that's where the money is for me at the moment. So I guess it's not surprising I am getting a sore neck and back, do concede that I stoop over the machine a bit.
As I prefer to turn left handed quite often I find myself sitting on the bed of the lathe while I hollow out bowls or similar items. This adds a further "shock factor" when raising the height significantly as I can no longer jump on the bed with ease.
Have decided to settle for a 6inch/150mm elevation and see how things go. Prolly wonder why I didn't change things years ago. Will put some pics of the rather "agricultural" height adjustments tomorrow when the job is done. Too many distractions here today to do it.

artful bodger
25th January 2016, 01:57 PM
Have raised the lathe by 150mm by plonking it on some 150 x 75 timber. Used coach screws to fasten old lathe stand to the timber Then dyna bolts, tech screws and 80 x80 x 10 mm angle iron to fasten the lot to the floor. Actually looking forward to the next order!, which is a bit unusual these days. Funny how when your hobby becomes more of a living, the enjoyment factor decreases somewhat.
369524369525

Paul39
25th January 2016, 02:35 PM
[QUOTE=artful bodger;1926090]Have raised the lathe by 150mm by plonking it on some 150 x 75 timber. Used coach screws to fasten old lathe stand to the timber Then dyna bolts, tech screws and 80 x80 x 10 mm angle iron to fasten the lot to the floor. Actually looking forward to the next order!, which is a bit unusual these days. Funny how when your hobby becomes more of a living, the enjoyment factor decreases somewhat.
/QUOTE]

That looks good.

Re: hobby vs living. I was a rabid amateur photographer as a high school student, photographed a cousins wedding at 15 and had a 40 year career as a commercial photographer. I got sick of the business end and did home repair and maintenance for 10 years, and now at 76 do photography for fun and turning for a little side money.

I do no commissions, no two of the same thing. I make what I like and take to a crafts shop that sells on commission. So far everything has sold. I have a lot of respect for production turners.

I bought a lathe from a guy who said he made about 2500 bowls a year and sold them at flea markets. That is 48 a week. They were not very nicely finished. He had been laid off from a plant and that was his living.

Mobyturns
26th January 2016, 08:09 AM
Funny how when your hobby becomes more of a living, the enjoyment factor decreases somewhat.

Its all a state of mind, some say getting paid is just a bonus on top of doing something that you love.

I have resisted many suggestions & a few serious approaches to sell my work through more established retail outlets because I want to enjoy my hobby and to have the freedom to do what fancies me at the time rather than keep up with orders or worry about developing product lines. Retirement is getting closer and one day I may just have to resort to selling so I can sustain my tool habit. :D

artful bodger
26th January 2016, 10:40 PM
Yes Moby it is all a state of mind that's for sure. For me however woodwork is my sole income. If I could make that income creating new turnings,sculptures or furniture that I really wanted to do and have people queuing up to buy it that would be great, true bliss. However things are not so simple unless you are an artist of high repute whose work is in hot demand.
Sometimes it does happen, you get a commission for good loot for something interesting and creative and fun. However there are also plenty of times when the repetitive stuff seems to pay the bills and if it didn't one might get a bit unsettled. Bread and butter stuff I think they call it.
Either way, it's gotta be better than a "real job" in my mind. You know, one where you have to be there at the same time each day and be accountable to someone.