Axe talk

[rsser]

Axes were the first real woodworking tool and at one stage were the most common, used for felling, bucking, debarking, splitting and shaping. There was a huge diversity of manufacturers and patterns and there's still a fair output of both garden variety and boutique models. They're bought by traditionalist woodworkers and builders, hunters, survivalists and self-sufficient farmers, and collectors. Almost every household at one stage would've had one and some axes were passed on through several generations. That means there's plenty of sad-and-sorry old heads around but also a lively trade in collectables.

Here's a post about my work reshaping an Australian-made Kelly: http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/axe-reshaping-bit-202201 That US Forest Service PDF referred to by hiroller is a terrific resource.

It seems double-bit axes never took off in Aus compared with the US and I'm keen to try one. The virtues seem to be better balance perhaps and more especially the option to have two different bit geometries to hand, one for felling and the other for rough work.

If anyone's interested in sharing postage I'm looking at ordering a Barco/Kelly from the US. It looks good value. HJE Michigan Double Bit Kelly Axe American Made Hand Tools (http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/michigan-double-bit-kelly-axe.html) Unit cost is USD 32.50 and shipping for one will be about USD 60 but less per unit for two or more. The lighter version of this has been well-reviewed by Woodtrekker. Wood Trekker: Barco Kelly Woodslasher Michigan Double Bit Axe Review (http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com.au/2011/07/barco-kelly-woodslasher-michigan-double.html)

My modern Kelly 'Dandenong' and the Barco/Kelly double bit Michigan pattern:

369276369277


Please feel free to post a pic of your axe(s), in whatever shape it is.

[rsser]

If anyone's interested in a shared buy of the Kelly double-bit, please let me know by Jan 29. I'll get the cost and let you know. Payment will then need to be made up front.

Of course we can include other axes from them.

[Sawdust Maker]

If anyone's interested in a shared buy of the Kelly double-bit, please let me know by Jan 29. I'll get the cost and let you know. Payment will then need to be made up front.

Of course we can include other axes from them.


talk to Hiroller - he likes a good axe

[rsser]

Yup.

Here's a vid of hand-forging a laminated axe head, plus hanging it:

https://vimeo.com/37360333

One of the wrinkles is how far back from the edge the steel is hardened. ANSI says at least half an inch. Council axes reckons they do over an inch. Some well-worn oldies might be useless.

The only locally sold double-bit I can find is by Council, from Forestry Tools. Sounds like it will need to be tuned.

[L.S.Barker1970]

Please feel free to post a pic of your axe(s), in whatever shape it is.

I have a small collection of Axe's, adze's, froe's, and Maul's cross cut saws, basically everything to cut trees down by hand, split, and shape into posts, beams and rails.
The early use of timber for building structures, fencing and more has always interested me, in particular the tools that the settlers used to create their homes and work life.
One of my favored tools are my broad axes, great for sizing up the side of a post laying down, just keep an eye on your shins on the swing, a small steady controlled action is the go...
Pictured below are 2 broad axe heads, (unhanded) one is an American Axe & Tool Co, the other is a Collins, both made in the USA.
If any one has a lead on some decent broad axe offset handles, I would be eternally grateful !

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160122_175130_707_zps4s39r0h5.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160122_175557_661_zpsawnsv6ws.jpg
Melbourne Matty.

[rsser]

Nice tools Matty. Thanks for posting.

Yeah, the broad axe is something else.
I'm embarrassed to say that I once found a new old-stock blade in an old wares shop but cracked the eye fitting a handle :doh:

Here's one source of RHS handles: Diggers Broad Axe Handle Right Hand (http://www.ruralfencing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=82&category_id=10&keyword=broad+axe+handle&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54)

[rsser]

And another handle: under Council Broad Axe, a replacement .... https://www.forestrytools.com.au/index.php?id=838

[hiroller]

Well after some prodding, here are a few axe heads on the project list.
I'm not a collector, just a user but I like to do a bit of homework. My father was a Shipwright by training so has axes and an adze. I remember watching in awe as a young boy, my Dad swinging the adze to shape a new stem of a wooden launch.
Not something I'm racing out to copy.


369347 369348

The first 2 are single sided hatchets. I plan to set them up left and right handed.

1. A Birmingham UK made Brades 1591 No. 1
Brades were a premier tool works and their gear is still well regarded.
Their garden tools and hammers command a premium on eBay in the UK.
This head looks like it has never been used or fitted but has a small chip from being dropped.
369349369350
This Brades catalogue page is from 1941 courtesy of Toolemera.
http://toolemera.com/catpdf/BradesCat1941.pdf

2. A USA made True Temper
This was probably made by what was the Kelly Axe and Tool Works after Kelly was bought by American Fork and Hoe and rebranded True Temper. More info here:
Kelly Axe Mfg. Co. (http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears%20Tools/Kelly%20Axe%20Mfg.%20Co.%20.html)

3. The last is an older Hytest 4 1/2 pound felling axe head.
Hytest started out as Plumb Australia but rebranded when the unrelated Plumb USA entered the market.
WWII stopped the importation of axes and steel into Australia and local manufacturers led by Keech and Hytest (by then owned by A.C.I). Hytest with assistance from BHP developed a drop forging processes that enabled them to make quality axe heads. Axes were still being made with Ameican patterns having a rounded poll like mine. With the reintroduction of imports after the war, Keech and Hytest were forced to up their game and worked with local bushmen to refine the shapes and steel, moving to a better balanced square poll. Between them the dominated the axe chopping completions and ultimately even exported axes to the USA.
Hytest at their height developed a 3 model axe lineup of Challenger, Crafsman and top of the line Forester.
369352369353
Photes circa 1958 from the Canberra Times on Trove.
Hytest ultimately was merged into the Cyclone Brand and some heads are still made in Australia.

[L.S.Barker1970]

Nice tools Matty. Thanks for posting.

Yeah, the broad axe is something else.
I'm embarrassed to say that I once found a new old-stock blade in an old wares shop but cracked the eye fitting a handle :doh:rr

Here's one source of RHS handles: Diggers Broad Axe Handle Right Hand (http://www.ruralfencing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=82&category_id=10&keyword=broad+axe+handle&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54)

Thanks Ern, the rural fencing site looks like the go.
I'll be ordering a few, many thanks for the link !!

Melbourne Matty.
Thanks E

[rsser]

Yer welcome Matty.

Interesting post hiroller. Thanks. Any idea what hardness the Hytest axes run to?

In case anyone's in the market for new gear, ebay has some Helko Werks that are worth a look - the seller's in Melbourne. From a German mass maker. Specs look OK & Wood Trekker gave one of the hatchets a good wrap.

[hiroller]

Any idea what hardness the Hytest axes run to?


I thnk the Hytest and any of the early to mid-century era axes are pretty good.
I went for axe heads that had little or no use, rather than a specific brand.
Reasoning that they all start off OK, and there is more chance of the temper being lost through bad grinding and poor treatment.

[rsser]

Good thinking Batman.

There's a lot of double bit heads on US eBay but I suspect some of them have been filed back past the hardening depth. Pays to know the measurements.

As an aside I've been doing some tuning of my wedges. (I think of them as lazy axes.) There's an old and very heavy Dept of Defence, a small Hytest and what I think is a Cyclone. That one has a twisted tip and I'm wondering how to fix it. Any ideas? There'd be a lot of filing to get beyond it. Can these things be hammered cold?

[L.S.Barker1970]

Thanks Hiroller for all that information, I recall having a Brades hatchet put away some where, and two of my Adzes are Brades as well, great gear to use.
Guys, I am really enjoying this post as I don't recall axes being spoken of here before ?!
Many thanks to Both Hiroller and Ern for your efforts here.
Ern, with your twisted wedge, I don't see why some heat could be applied, hammered flat over an anvil of sorts, then quenched in water ?

I just thought I would share some finds over the weekend at an antique fair in Central Victoria that I attended.
The first was 3 very large steel wedges made by hytest, very happy to find these as one can never have enough wedges.
Other finds were a standard axe and broad axe, both very cheep, complete with surface rust and unbranded, or so I thought.
Once home a quick clean up with the wire brush reviles that they are both made by Plumb in the US.
Now that makes for a happy day.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_180950_471_zpssdhxp7go.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_181214_919_zpspuiway3u.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_182812_694_zpsg33ldlij.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_182437_970_zpsdpmm82fd.jpg
Melbourne Matty.

[hiroller]

Nice finds Matty.
Here's ad from 1954 with some more Hytest gear.
Those wedges are still popular. Looks like they have plenty of life left in them.
369497

[rsser]

Good scores Matty. The wedges look barely used.
Yes, you sometimes need just one more, to rescue the others stuck in the wood!
Thanks for the straightening tip. Don't have that gear I'm afraid.

[marphlix]

Thought the guys in this thread might be interested in this i found the other day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au1TbIyLcPU

Enjoy!!!

Cheers, Dave

[rsser]

Thanks Dave. Good to watch his technique. Reminds me of the S.E.C. walk among LaTrobe Valley employees back in the day. Slow. Easy. Comfortable :U

There's a couple of Youtube vids of Bernie Weisgerber on axe types, sharpening and rehanging. He's the author of those US Fire Service booklets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22tBYD-HMtA

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf99232823/pdf99232823Pdpi300.pdf - thanks to hiroller for this one.

[Bushmiller]

Thanks Ern

I watched through the re-handling section of the first video, but will have to come back to it as I am heading off to work.

The double bit axes have always appealed to me, possibly because we don't see them in Australia. And therein lies another problem. If you get a double bit axe head sent over, which will almost certainly be without a handle, you will be unlikely to find a handle in the hardware stores.

I was interested to hear him say that the Hicory should be from sapwood only. I long time ago I cut Spotted Gum for Australia's largest tool handle maker, Heely Bros in Newcastle. They told me that they made very good handles from the sapwood.

I have a pile of Spotted Gum, but it was deliberately cut excluding the sapwood.

Regards
Paul

[Bushmiller]

I have just re-read the OP and realise that you are looking at a new axe with 36" handle. I was fixed on Ebay in my head.

Regards
Paul

[rsser]

Well, maybe you were mind-reading Paul, as actually I've switched to getting some eBay heads. Scored a couple today. More fun in rehabbing old tools.

Anyway, there's one local supplier of a double-bit handle. It's a replacement for the Council tool so some checking would be needed. In the US there's a family firm still producing them in AA grade in hickory, with grain orientation selected, and available at a reasonable price. I ordered a couple this morning. It may also be an interesting lathe project; can't be too hard. Sourcing the hickory might be tricky but of course spotty or fraxinus would be available.

For today's scores I'm using a shipping agent and consolidating the buys as some quoted head postage rates are ridiculous.

[rsser]

Here's the scores.

Collins Homestead, Western pattern. The Homestead was their basic axe model line. And a Kelly True Temper Flint Edge, in a pretty sorry state. Both are heavy felling axes, 3+ pounds. There are cruiser axes that are lighter, designed to be carried.

369569369570369571

[Bushmiller]

Think you are better off buying the bare heads as the postal services have equivalent rates fro bulk just as they do here. Which forwarding agent do you use?

Regads
Paul

[pmcgee]

I had an axe thread quite a while ago gathering some links and stuff ... I have only made a feeble attempt to re-find it.


I have three of the double-bit axes ex the US ... and a couple loose heads.
There are only "as is" at this stage.
I'll post photos when I can ... it's a bit busy atm. :~

Cheers,
Paul

[rsser]

Bushmiller, I use Shipito.
I don't get the sense that US sellers make any effort to minimise shipping costs. Maybe eBay has a calculator with a limited default. Shipito offers a heap of choices. One or other courier will be cheapest or for small items USPS economy if you have the time.

pmcgee, look forward to seeing your stuff.

[pmcgee]

One older thread ... http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/axes-83680

[rsser]

Thanks for that.
You know I did a search on thread titles before starting this one and came up with zip. Don't think the search engine works with single words.

[rsser]

Some of you may not know about Stu's 2nd hand tool operation. He has quite a few impact tools: axes (single and double bit), broad axes, hatchets and so on. Users and collectors. Axes (http://www.toolexchange.com.au/our-tools/axes-hatchets)

PS Now that I've gone fishing in the US eBay market, Stu's prices don't look too bad.

[IanW]

Just a question from an axe ignoramus: what are the perceived advantages of a double-bit axe? Half as many pauses to sharpen (though each pause takes twice as long), or do you put different profiles on the edges for different needs? I remember asking my old pot about them once, and he made some disparaging comment, but I can't remember if he had any objective reasons for not liking them.

I grew up on a farm where we cut a lot of timber, either for our own use or to sell as mill timber, fenceposts, sleepers, etc. My old man was a Taswegian and reckoned he'd been given an axe on his first birthday. I'm not sure that was quite true, he was given to the occasional wry exageration (:U), but I do know he was a superb axeman. I wish I was half as good, but I am not even in the race. He never seemed to mis-hit, and could chop just as accurately either hand, or balancing on a springboard. My scarfs always looked like they'd been gnawed out by some crazed beaver, whereas his were always two perfect intersecting planes that looked as if they'd been smoothed with a chisel!

I like to tell the story about when I was visiting my parents when he was past 90. One evening, right on dusk, mum reminded him she needed kindling for the morning. So he stomps off to the woodheap, hauls out his beloved old 5lb Kelly (still reasonably sharp), picks up a board from a convenient pile and proceeds to whack slivers off, each stroke of the axe landing about 5mm from the fingers holding the board! By this stage of his life, his eyesight & hearing were very dodgy at best, so it was a pretty alarming thing to watch (what I could see of it in the gloom!). I said, "For goodness sake dad, you're going to chop your bleeding fingers off any moment!". He looked up, without pausing a single stroke and said "What? What're you saying?" He died several years after that incident, with all 10 fingers still intact.......

Cheers,

PS, I have the old Kelly, which I keep sharp and use (badly) on occasion. What I do find really handy around the shed is an old shingling hatchet, which is the bees knees for knocking the lumps off rough-cut boards, roughing out split billets before mounting in the lathe, etc. I went looking for a small broad-axe style, but couldn't find one, so this is the nearest thing. I've been sharpening from one side, with the intention of producing a facsimile of a broad axe, but it's slow going, & I may not live long enough to get rid of the unwanted bevel completely! :U

[rsser]

Nothing like 'muscle memory' is there Ian. Can work for you, or against you.

Yes, both of those advantages apply to a double-bit. Some old timers kept one edge for dirty work, and some preferred the balance over a single bit.

It's interesting that they never took off in Australia when there seems to have been quite a lot of international ideas transfer among axe makers. They're more awkward I guess to strap to a horse or a back pack; can't be used as a hammer; maybe they cost more :shrug:

[Bushmiller]

Bushmiller, I use Shipito.
I don't get the sense that US sellers make any effort to minimise shipping costs. Maybe eBay has a calculator with a limited default. Shipito offers a heap of choices. One or other courier will be cheapest or for small items USPS economy if you have the time.

pmcgee, look forward to seeing your stuff.

Ok, Shipito the same as I do. Just be aware that some of the freight companies have restrictions and you may not be able to use them. For example I have to ship some JP knife blanks and only two companies will allow that and they are much more expensive.

The Ebay calculators do come up with some anomalies, but remember too that like Australia, it depends on where you live. I can send a handsaw to Cairns for half the price I can to Melbourne, but Cairns is farther away. If you buy on America's East coast, but you are using one of the Californian shipping facilities domestic postage will be more, but when it comes to ship to Oz, California is closer. Shipito gets cheaper per Kg as the weight goes up. About 40kg is optimum (but that's a lot of axe heads :) .)

pmcgee also uses Shipito. I have just remembered that they have increased their storage and consolidation rates for 2016.

You should probably use their live chat to see if there are any restrictions on axes (Paul may also have something to add on that).

Regards
Paul

[rsser]

Thanks for that heads-up.
They've just become sequestered carbon distribution tools.

[Bushmiller]

Thanks for that heads-up.
They've just become sequestered carbon distribution tools.

:D

Regards
Paul

[pmcgee]

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/524669425312333462/

lot of 17 Sager Chemical Axe double bit axes incl cruiser SEATTLE PICK-UP ONLY (http://www.ebay.com/itm/lot-of-17-Sager-Chemical-Axe-double-bit-axes-incl-cruiser-SEATTLE-PICK-UP-ONLY-/151299695889?nma=true&si=WFRfZSCwdqjR7Hn3nBJP2sfW4NI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)


They do group buys on this forum, right?

( JOKE!!! :o )


369648

[rsser]

Wow.
Actually a damn good price each.

[rsser]

There is of course a heap of forum, blog and Youtube posts about this, both the what and the how.

With my Kelly I jumped in with eyes wide shut, aiming to follow Leonard Lee's advice of a 25 degree included bevel with a more obtuse micro-bevel for strength. An angle grinder and a 1x30 belt sander did the job.

There's a detailed how-to here using manual methods: How to Sharpen an Axe - Picture Heavy (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22814)
On profiles: Ax Prep, Sharpening & Care – Part Two | THE WOODS LIFE (http://thewoodslife.com/?p=1579#comment-382101)

If you use a belt sander in the unsupported area you'll get convexing happening automatically. Stick to the platen area obviously if you don't want that.
You can get 1x30 belts in quite fine grits so that only a quick hone is needed to finish.

[artme]

Thanks Hiroller for all that information, I recall having a Brades hatchet put away some where, and two of my Adzes are Brades as well, great gear to use.
Guys, I am really enjoying this post as I don't recall axes being spoken of here before ?!
Many thanks to Both Hiroller and Ern for your efforts here.
Ern, with your twisted wedge, I don't see why some heat could be applied, hammered flat over an anvil of sorts, then quenched in water ?

I just thought I would share some finds over the weekend at an antique fair in Central Victoria that I attended.
The first was 3 very large steel wedges made by hytest, very happy to find these as one can never have enough wedges.
Other finds were a standard axe and broad axe, both very cheep, complete with surface rust and unbranded, or so I thought.
Once home a quick clean up with the wire brush reviles that they are both made by Plumb in the US.
Now that makes for a happy day.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_180950_471_zpssdhxp7go.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_181214_919_zpspuiway3u.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_182812_694_zpsg33ldlij.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160124_182437_970_zpsdpmm82fd.jpg
Melbourne Matty.

Almost shed a tear looking at these photos. Dad grew up swinging an axe as did all his brothers -8 boys all told.

This is exactly the gear dad had --Plumb (Australian Plumb axe and broad axes. Wedges look identical to those I remember.
All that is missing is the14lb. hammer dad would use on the wedges!!

I was never much chop with an axe< no pun intended. One eye meant I was like lightning, couldn't strike the same place twice!!

Thanks for the walk down memory lane!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[pmcgee]

http://www.amazon.com/American-Axes-Survey-Development-Makers/dp/1883294126/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329236300&sr=8-1

[pmcgee]

I remember seeing a couple of pages like this somewhere ... with different (double-bit, I thought) ... head patterns by state

Not sure if this was part of it or not ...

369680

also

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/18/6b/0c/186b0ccb8f5ab80ecfe1305b794ea05c.jpg

[rsser]

That's amazing.
Like species evolution in nature.

[IanW]

--Plumb (Australian Plumb axe and broad axes. Wedges look identical to those I remember.
All that is missing is the14lb. hammer dad would use on the wedges!!.....

Hah! A mere 14lb, Artme!? The 10 pounder (pun intended :;) I was given at age 12 was taken away from me when I turned 16 and replaced with a 16lb job. Took a lot more effort to raise it above my head, but it sure got results when it met those wedges! After a couple of years, it got a bit lighter.

Some of the die-hard old blokes round our way wouldn't countenance steel hammers because of the way they mushroom the wedges, so they used these bl**dy great awkward wooden mallets instead. I tried one & found it hard to hit accurately with it (wrong muscle memory?), and they just didn't move a wedge the way the 16 pounder did!

Steel hammers are a bit tough on the wedge heads, though. Those sharp flakes of work-hardened steel that form as the heads are mushroomed heads could do nasty things to careless hands. One day, a sliver about the size of a threepenny bit flew off a wedge when I hit it, and lodged deep in my leg. I was wondering why the cut was so sore & not healing properly, & eventually fronted at the local hospital. An x-ray of my leg solved the mystery, and a pair of deftly-handled tweezers solved the problem....


....... I was never much chop with an axe< no pun intended. One eye meant I was like lightning, couldn't strike the same place twice!!...

Least you have an excuse - I have had two perfectly good peepers, but I still couldn't use an axe worth a damn.....:C

Cheers,

[L.S.Barker1970]

Some of the die-hard old blokes round our way wouldn't countenance steel hammers because of the way they mushroom the wedges, so they used these bl**dy great awkward wooden mallets instead. I tried one & found it hard to hit accurately with it (wrong muscle memory?), and they just didn't move a wedge the way the 16 pounder did!


Cheers,

I'm one of the die-hards, and the great awkward things are called a "Maul" or "Beetle" perhaps try one with some lead shot plugged inside for weight and then watch your little wedges disappear.
I pity your wedges Ian ...

Melbourne Matty.

[artme]

Talking of slivers flying off wedges, I had that happen to me in my 20s. Lodged in the right side of the chin.
As it didn't get infected I did nothing about it. Had a hard lump there for probably 15 years. The steel must
have eventually dissolved and there is no sign of any lump or detectable scar these days.

Dad's father died when dad was about 11 0r so. Many years later his mother married again. Vince was a timber worker
and he had some pretty good wisdom in his head. He refused to work on windy days as he maintained that if he did so
the the axe controlled him instead of him controlling the axe. For more obvious reasons he would not fell trees on windy days.

[IanW]

..... the great awkward things are called a "Maul" or "Beetle"....

Matty, I hesitated to give it a name because names seem to vary with district. If you'd asked for a 'maul' round our way, you would've been handed one of these mallets-on-steroids, i.e., a large lump of wood with a handle fixed through it. But if you asked for a 'beetle', you'd get something made from a single chunk of wood, with a handle formed by trimming it down with an an axe or hatchet. We sometimes used one cobbled up for an emergency, & I hated them! They transmitted far more jar on impact, and were also not as robust, since you were clobbering the object with side-grain. They tended to disintegrate or be 'lost' fairly quickly...


.....perhaps try one with some lead shot plugged inside for weight and then watch your little wedges disappear......

I never had the pleasure of trying anything as refined as that. These were just a couple of cubic feet of the hardest, toughest wood available, with a crude handle. The size, plus the fact they weren't particularly balanced made them just plain awkward. I've no doubt you could improve a lot on the things I remember!


.....I pity your wedges Ian ....

I'm afraid I had no sympathy whatever for the mongrel things! As a 16/17 year old, I could think of quite a few things I'd rather be doing than driving wedges into large billets of wood all day! :;

My old man was usually pretty careful with his gear, but I guess he did his own calculations on this one & decided steel hammers were more 'productive' & the wedges would still pay for themselves before they expired. Dunno - I guess it's one of those "I like coffee & you like tea" situations. Had I been brought up on the end of a wooden maul, I probably wouldn't think of using a steel hammer... :U

Thankfully, that's all long in the past. On the rare occasion I need to convert a tree into fencepost-sized objects nowadays, I (Shhh, this is the hand tools section) get out the big stihl & put on the rip chain..
:D
Cheers,

[Boringgeoff]

As a kid in NZ I never saw anyone use anything but a maul for driving wedges and was only since we retired to the south west that I became aware of wedges being driven by a sledge hammer. (Not much call for splitting wedges in the Pilbara) I've got a few wedges, all mushroomed, bought at swap meets etc, and use the back of the block splitter to drive them. Being relatively soft the splitter is beginning to mushroom. My elderly neighbour told me that his father used to heat the hammer head in the forge to soften it so as not to damage the wedges.

[Bushmiller]

The mushrooming tendency with wedges (and cold chisels) needs to be removed as it becomes pronounced as it can be dangerous when the "lip" flies off. It can easily be achieved by using a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder and then dressed with a grinding disc, bench grinder or file.

Regards
Paul

[rsser]

Thanks for that tip Paul. I've gone a long time without doing that but better safe than sorry.

Here's the odd Dept of Defence wedge in the kit. Narrower and thicker than the norm. It's quite hard to drive straight but has the advantage that you can chase it into a log!

Also a modern Plumb hatchet that's does kindling duty. It's several decades old and has a resin eye top. I assume the line across the cheek is the hardening limit and that the pitting is from hand forging. The handle is misaligned and the cheeks asymmetrical. But apart from that ... lol. Time to replace it.

[IanW]

......It can easily be achieved by using a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder....

Didn't have them fancy things on the farm when I were 16, Paul! :U

But you're right, you could soon clean up the tops of mushroomed wedges with an angle grinder and a suitable wheel. I would also think you could clean them up successfully by re-forging the tops. This might even be the preferable method, as you could soften the tops back from their work-hardened state & reduce the chance of those flying scalpel blades.

Interesting thought - softening the hammer. Not sure I'd have the confidence to try that, and also not sure which would be better, soft hammers or soft wedges...?

Cheers,

[carves]

The first 2 are single sided hatchets. I plan to set them up left and right handed.

Thats a fine idea.

... now I'll have to start looking for a mate for this one .. :)


http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Tools%20and%20Test/Axes/Brades%2002b_zpskkooqqlp.jpg

[hiroller]

Good idea!
Although, I've seen pictures of some single sided axes where they have left the handle long so that you can tap it out and swap it around.

[artme]

Thats a fine idea.

... now I'll have to start looking for a mate for this one .. :)


http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Tools%20and%20Test/Axes/Brades%2002b_zpskkooqqlp.jpg

Found a hatchet like that when we were kids. Dad subpoenaed it and put a handle to it. The hatchet, which we called
a tomahawk, was used exclusively for cutting kindling. Dad would sit for several hours cutting various sized kndling which
was stacked in he wood shed and lasted for many weeks. As each of us 4 boys reached the right age we took over that task.
The tomahawk was sharpened every so often with a file. Funny thing is the thing disappeared after dad died None of us, sister
included have any idea where it went but we all wanted it.

Kerosene was NEVER allowed near any fire to be lit by us! We had to do things properly - one sheet of newspaper,
correctly stacked kindling and ONE match!

[L.S.Barker1970]

Matty, I hesitated to give it a name because names seem to vary with district. If you'd asked for a 'maul' round our way, you would've been handed one of these mallets-on-steroids, i.e., a large lump of wood with a handle fixed through it. But if you asked for a 'beetle', you'd get something made from a single chunk of wood, with a handle formed by trimming it down with an an axe or hatchet. We sometimes used one cobbled up for an emergency, & I hated them! They transmitted far more jar on impact, and were also not as robust, since you were clobbering the object with side-grain. They tended to disintegrate or be 'lost' fairly quickly...
Cheers,

Ian, first up thanks for your great responses, I could not agree more with every thing you've said. I've heard a chap call a mallet that hammers his froe to split shingles a beetle as well
Yes, the terminology changes with who you ask, unfortunately, as I am seeing through the years, there are less and less of these lovely old boys with the required skills and knowledge of how timber was handled back in the day to ask or chat to.
So, I am finding the talk on this part of the forum very interesting and informative, many thanks to your self and everyone here putting up their thoughts, keep it coming.

Over the last 3 years I have been having a good go at making the perfect Maul.
I started of with timber at 15% moisture content, turned the rings to a tight fit, pressed them on with a 50 ton press, furred the end grain over with a mash hammer to stop the rings coming of as well.
I handed one to my Brother who participates in the "wood days" Wood Days' Activities - Cancer in Kids @ RCH - CIKA (http://www.google.com.au/url?q=http://www.cika.org.au/WoodDaysActivities&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwj38JCpy8nKAhUY0mMKHQxjBj8QFggaMAE&usg=AFQjCNHc2-VtNV1DMVKZl4NMFUy_TqPJ7w) event, I get a call early in the part saying the rings have come loose, we have put it in a bucket of water to soak, that helped.
The old boys at the event were un-impressed apparently.

This years new approach...
Step 1. Wood Turn the Maul head oversized.
Step 2. Microwave the S%@t out of the timber aim for almost 4% moisture content, or more
Step 3. Heat up the steel rings, not red hot as it will char the timber, just enough for 1+ mm expansion
Step 4. Measure hot steel rings accurately and turn dry timber maul head to 2mm oversized with a slight taper on the fit.
Step 5. Press rings on to maul head using the 50 ton press, don't burn fingers use tongs to hold ( could be interesting )
Step 6. Fit Handle and allow to soak in a bath of Linseed oil and mineral turps, should soak into the timber and expand a little.
Step 7. Have a beer.

My Brother had a chat also with some of the wiser gents at the event, apparently I have my taper a little to much as well, it appears that if its tapered correctly as you strike the ring on the far side gets pressed on more, its good practice also to alternate each hit of the Maul by flipping the faces around each hit or blow.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_1135_zpsj789woq9.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_1264_zpsetprzgrz.jpg




I'm afraid I had no sympathy whatever for the mongrel things! As a 16/17 year old, I could think of quite a few things I'd rather be doing than driving wedges into large billets of wood all day! :;



I did laugh when I read this, you'll probably like these then, my brother has a set of T wedges, makers marked as well, he says they are great to use.
Thanks again Ian.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_1009_zpsl3zgxjsh.jpg
Melbourne Matty.

[rsser]

Nice work Matty.

I've read of guys dropping the head and handle in a bucket of linseed oil for a few days to get the fibres to swell.

[L.S.Barker1970]

Nice work Matty.

I've read of guys dropping the head and handle in a bucket of linseed oil for a few days to get the fibres to swell.

Thanks Ern, the Mauls are something I enjoy making, a work in progress I guess you could say.
I'd be grateful for any other ideas or tips on making these things as well, I'm no expert by any length, always learning....

Melbourne Matty.

[IanW]

Hi again, Matty. Yes, there are quite a few stories about earlier times that are rapidly being lost forever. As a kid I knew many hard old blokes who still earned their crust cutting wood for various purposes with nothing but potato power, and heard a few yarns - some no doubt true in every detail, many stretched just a little :;. But the scene changed rapidly in the post-war 50s, with modernity arriving in far Nth Qld as it was everywhere else in the back blocks. By the early 60s there would've been very few folks left who actually earned a living in timber with hand tools only. There were still mill timber cutters working in the rainforest who preferred axes & crosscut saws, they were easier to carry into the rough country where there was still big timber. The monster saws of the time were not very competent at handling the large diameter logs, and the quiet of the crosscut was a big safety plus - you could hear what was happening. My father was nearly killed by a 'widow-maker' when felling scrub in a gang. His ears were ringing so much he didn't hear the bloke with the chainsaw sing out as a large tree started to fall, dragging a dead branch out of an adjacent tree. Speared the old pot on the head & cracked a few cervical vertebrae & put him out of action for close to a year.

I would've been about 14 when the railway decided there were to be no more 'hogback' sleepers (those squared on 3 sides only). That left the field to the Hagan saw blokes, who were pretty well taking over anyway - you could get more sleepers out of a dodgy log with a saw than by splitting, broad-axing & adzing out the flats for the rails. So that skill soon died, but a new skill developed - driving those lethal gimbal-mounted killers. It was a steep learning curve, and they were very unforgiving. My father bought one just as I was leaving home for the wider world, so I got no first-hand experience (mercifully!). He became quite adept with it, and loved the monster. He only gave it up very reluctantly when my brothers insisted an 85 yr. old was a bit long in the tooth for such 'toys' & threatened to chop it up with the oxy torch if he didn't. It's still sitting in an old shed on the farm, and it makes me shudder every time I see it. A local 'sawdoc' modified the blade & added tungsten tips - about 10 teeth on a 3 foot diameter blade - it would scare the daylights out of any reasonable person just seeing it! :o It takes finesse to drive something like that, but the worst accident he had with it was when it backfired on starting one day and threw the crank-handle at him. That cost him two front teeth, but apart from a few chips & splinters thrown at his shins (mostly stopped by a thick leather 'curtain' that hung between the wheels) he got off lightly. He was either a very lucky or reasonably careful user - many others got more than just a stern warning.....

But I'm digressing - this thread is about hand tools, not their pretender replacements. :; I was thinking about your problem of retaining maul rings. I had a similar problem with hoops on a set of chisel handles. In my case I made the hoops butt against a shoulder on the top of the handle (should've left a couple of mm of taper for them to keep tightening onto), and didn't leave enough wood proud of the hoop to fur-over & hold them, either (the wood is a hard Acacia, which doesn't mushroom much, anyway). They have been a miserable failure, & I'd like a $ for every time I've had to retrieve one from the floor! ...:C

Maul hoops are a different matter - given the bulk of those things, you are bound to loosen the 'down' ring at least a smidgin, every time you strike. I can see how flipping the maul on each blow could be a big part of the 'solution'. It would take some getting used to, no doubt, but would eventually become second nature. Ouch! my now-girly hands would be a mess of blisters by the end of day 1 on that routine! :U

I think the person who suggested you reduce the taper on your maul heads is onto something too. Given that wood is forever expanding & contracting with the weather & seasons, no hoop will stay tight indefinitely, so you do need some way of constantly re-tightening if they are to stay put. Metal tapers hold best when shallow, & I think wood is the same, so my approach would be to apply just a degree or two of taper over the section where the hoop tightens.

Cheers,

[Boringgeoff]

Matty,
I was taught, turn the maul each strike to keep the rings drawn on.
Cheers Geoff.

[rsser]

FWIW there's a bunch of DIY turning tool handles in my kit, mostly redgum, and a heavy brass ferrule can sit tight for years and then one day just drop off into the shavings. Clearly changing EMC has something to do with but not everything.

Anyway, here's a couple of new axes from Helko bought from eBay. The hatchet (500 g) is to replace the Plumb and the half axe (1100g) is for light work. Helko is Germany's largest axe maker and has been around for a while.

Specs:
The handles are from Swiss ash (hatchet) or hickory (axe), both FSC certified and lightly lacquered.
German C45 medium carbon steel.
Drop forged and tempered in oil (hrc 53-56).
Comes with a leather sheath (hatchet) or edge protector (axe, pretty useless).


Quality:
Grain alignment on both is good.
They use a thick wood wedge with a cone steel 'wedge' through the middle.
Haft to eye fit is pretty good; bit of a void on the front of the axe. There's a bead of glue or something at the bottom of the hatchet eye.
Very good edge for the money; will just need a quick power hone.
The hatchet cheeks are just on the concave side of straight and the axe's are distinctly concave.
However, the cheeks on the axe are asymmetrical and the edge is noticeably off to the side of the head centre line. Even though it's a mass produced axe there's no need for this and it's going to be returned.

[L.S.Barker1970]

I think the person who suggested you reduce the taper on your maul heads is onto something too. Given that wood is forever expanding & contracting with the weather & seasons, no hoop will stay tight indefinitely, so you do need some way of constantly re-tightening if they are to stay put. Metal tapers hold best when shallow, & I think wood is the same, so my approach would be to apply just a degree or two of taper over the section where the hoop tightens.

Cheers,

Thanks Ian, thats sound advice !
Your dad sounds like a salt of the earth hard working man, thanks for the stories I like to hear the history of past things.
My dad is a keen gardener, he has a shovel that he treasures with a solid ash handle, "look at that handle" he says "they don't make them as good as that any more !"
You could imagine his surprise last week when I found a matching pitch fork in an old antique shop, cleaned it up and gave it to the old boy, he was over the moon.
I guess I am part of the crowd that wants to reenact how it was done all those years ago, to learn the skills and have something to pass on.
I Saw some broad axes hang on a pub wall for show a few nights ago out for dinner, it seemed sad to me, I wanted to take them down and hold them may be sharpen them too...
Any way back to talking of Axes, I'm gonna look for my Brades Hatchet....



Matty,
I was taught, turn the maul each strike to keep the rings drawn on.
Cheers Geoff.

Thanks Jeff, glad you can confirm as well !

Melbourne Matty.

[lightwood]

Matty,
here are some pictures of a commercially supplied Maul like yours. seen in a shop mid last year.
Keen students of hardware shops will notice a motorbike in the background and know we were in Invercargill. NZ.
I've no experience using them, but looking at them, there is a definite swelling over the ring.

Cheers,
Peter

http://www.petermcbride.com/temp/images/maul1.jpg

http://www.petermcbride.com/temp/images/maul3.jpg

http://www.petermcbride.com/temp/images/maul2.jpg

[pmcgee]

I had to go look to remind myself ... so from this forum ...

369864

[pmcgee]

I took these in a bit of a rush ... they all came here in boxes 36" long x 17" x 17", so obviously that sets a max size to what I could buy and ship.

They were pretty cheap pre-shipping ... might reflect the brands ... Mastercraft and Craftsman ... but the other one is a Kelly.

369872 369873 and the forum insists the photos turn sideways ... -_-

There's also a differently shaped head-only with no makers marks left ...

369891



"Mastercraft"

369874 369875 369876

369877 369878

[pmcgee]

I think this says "True Temper - Keen Edge - Kelly Works"

369879 369880 369881

369882 369883


"Craftsman" - the Sears brand I think ...

369885 369886 369887 369888

369889 369890

[1thumb]

Hello nice to see that I'm not alone in taking an interest in old axes (or forest razor) as me old man would say. I have spent many an hour listening to his stories of falling big timber down on the coast. Anyway heres a couple from my stash.

[L.S.Barker1970]

Matty,
here are some pictures of a commercially supplied Maul like yours. seen in a shop mid last year.



Pete, they look like they would do the job, the ring looks like its compressed on some how.
Very interesting !
I found my Brades Hatchet ...

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160128_145952_714_zpspkrek2nk.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160128_150346_647_zps3x3varbk.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160128_145655_087_zpscrbo0pv0.jpg
Melbourne Matty

[L.S.Barker1970]

Paul and Pat, you have both got some great gear there !
Thanks for showing..

Melbourne Matty.

[IanW]

..... but looking at them, there is a definite swelling over the ring......

Peter, it looks to me like the wood bulges on the 'face' side of the ring, too. Is that just gunk around the ring on the bottom pic, or is it a singe mark? I'm thinking if a very hot ring had been put on very dry wood, that's just what would happen when the metal cooled and the wood re-equilibrated.

Maybe that's your answer Matty - stick the maul head in hot sand for a couple of days & drop hot rings over it. You may not need to flip the maul between blows after all...... :;

Cheers,

[hiroller]

Here's another way of making a maul.
369922
It comes from a series of illustrated lectures published by local Architecture historian Miles Lewis.
http://www.mileslewis.net/lectures/04-history-of-building/COB-07-traditional-framing-red.pdf
He has has a bunch of excellent photos of historic tools, buildings and methods. Well worth a look.

There is is also a document outlining the development of the local axe stemming from the poor quality English axes that were incapable of working the local woods.
http://www.mileslewis.net/australian-building/pdf/05-timber-frame/5.02%20timber%20processing.pdf

[hiroller]

Nice to see another little Brades hatchet. These are a Kent pattern axe.
The design originated in Kent but was popular in New England as both a single and double beveled axe.
More on another Kent pattern axe here:
Mud Pond Hewing and Framing: THE KENT AXE REVISITED (http://mudpondhewing.blogspot.com.au/2012/06/kent-axe-revisited.html)

Here is a Kent pattern axe that Chris Vesper restored a couple of years ago:
https://www.vespertools.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=62&Itemid=38

[IanW]

.....Here's another way of making a maul....


That there maul is what I know as a "beetle". It's better than nothing if you need to wallop things & have only very basic gear to make the walloper. But imo, it's the least pleasant to use: poor balance, severe jar on impact, and the long-grain end soon turns to mush if you belt into steel wedges. But it will get you out of a spot if you're desperate.....
:U
Cheers,

[rsser]

I think this says "True Temper - Keen Edge - Kelly Works"


They made a Flint Edge. Could that be it?

....

A fallen limb provided a chance to test drive the reground Kelly. With more work on sharpening the edge as well the difference is huge.

369940

[issatree]

Hi All,
Picked up a Brades Criterion 312, it says on the face.
Does anybody know of such an item.
Unfortunately it has been belted a bit on the head, buy looks like it has never been sharpened. Handle seems authentic, but need some work.
Not sure of the price tag, but Brades is quite a good brand.
Head to Blade edge = 4 1/2in.
Width of Blade = 2 3/4in.
Width of Head = 1 3/4in.
Thickness of Head = 3/4in.
Length of Handle = 13 1/2in.
Reason for the Imperial Size, is because I think it wood have been made in the Imperial Days.

[1thumb]

Nice axes here great to see:2tsup:

[pmcgee]

They made a Flint Edge. Could that be it?

Looking online it looks like that's it. Thanks.:)

370001 370002 370003

[hiroller]

Hi All,
Picked up a Brades Criterion 312, it says on the face.
Does anybody know of such an item.
Unfortunately it has been belted a bit on the head, buy looks like it has never been sharpened. Handle seems authentic, but need some work.
Not sure of the price tag, but Brades is quite a good brand.
Head to Blade edge = 4 1/2in.
Width of Blade = 2 3/4in.
Width of Head = 1 3/4in.
Thickness of Head = 3/4in.
Length of Handle = 13 1/2in.
Reason for the Imperial Size, is because I think it wood have been made in the Imperial Days.

Check out the Brades catalogue page in post #8
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/axe-talk-202228-post1925606#post1925606
According to that, a Brades 312 is a Criterion Scouts Hatchet.

[carves]

I'm beginning to think those little 1591 Criterions several of us have,

... must have been good sellers down here, back in the day.


Now since my favourite axe is a stihl .....

... Anybody familiar with Brit made Kelly Dandenongs, and are they worth sharpening up ... or do I just stick with my Plumb USA for a general hack.

Scored the poor old Kelly a while back in some scrap ... and it looks as though its been used as bolt cutters .. :no:

[rsser]

Carves, the Kelly in #69 above and in this thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/axe-reshaping-bit-202201 is an Aussie-made Kelly Dandenong. So far so good; have yet to give it a proper workout to check how the tarted up edge holds.

It's going into the 4WD for minor track clearing work. The bit's quite long: 145mm from corner to corner in a straight line. It was quite hard to find a leather sheath for it but I finally scored this one: https://www.forestrytools.com.au/index.php?id=798 It's well made.

370058

[carves]

Carves, the Kelly in #69 above and in this thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/axe-reshaping-bit-202201 is an Aussie-made Kelly Dandenong. So far so good; have yet to give it a proper workout to check how the tarted up edge holds.


So thats what a Dandenong looks like without a serrated edge .. :D

Good looking sheath too .. :cool:

[rsser]

So you can use yours to saw and split? Neat.

There's a lot of old heads out there. If you have a shaggy dog and are interested in a rehab job it may be worth instead being picky and finding something in good shape.

You find quite a few rehabbed jobs FS on eBay and Gumtree. If the owners had studied that Forest Service manual linked to here, they could have avoided some simple errors. The saddest case I've seen is I think current on Aus eBay where the owner has made a handle out of Red Cedar.

[IanW]

...... the owner has made a handle out of Red Cedar.

:o

Well, maybe it looks nice. Just don't try to use it!

I made a handle for a splitting axe a couple of months ago. Against my own better judgement, I used sawn stock instead of riven. It was going very well for about 2 hours, then one mis-hit revealed some oblique grain, down near the head, where it really counts..... :~

Cheers,

[rsser]

Indeed, it does look good.

My last Cyclone splitter went the same way as yours Ian. Disappointing. Went for a Fiskars splitter after that. Not bad. Could do with more head weight but the handle will last.

[carves]

If you have a shaggy dog and are interested in a rehab job it may be worth instead being picky and finding something in good shape.

Nahhh ... one axe is enough for me ... The Kelly was just in a bucket with some other stuff.



Some of you fellas might have enjoyed a clearing sale I went to today.

... Lots of old rusty, neglected and abused, crosscut saws, handsaws of all types, adzes, axes, etc.


Took a pic of this head ... didnt get a makers name .....

... too many people were giving me weird looks while I was spitting and rubbing ... so I gave up looking .. :D


http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Trip%20Pics/Uliman/Axe%2001b_zpszk4ghkkj.jpg

[rsser]

Reading around the web....

Is hand better than drop forging? No evidence - Ross Gilmore. Wood Trekker: Myths and Misconceptions About Drop-Forged Axes (http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com.au/2011/03/myths-and-misconceptions-about-drop.html)

Carving an axe handle - Robin Wood.
Does handle grain to head alignment matter? No, unless it's old growth hickory.
Carve green & let dry. The sound on tapping will tell you when that's happened. axe handle (http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/wood-craft-blog/2010/12/14/how-to-make-a-new-axe-handle/)

[Bushmiller]

On the subject of handles I have a prejudice for spotted gum. This stems from the time I supplied timber to the handle manufacturer Hely Bros.

They, of course, turned the handles on a lathe four at a time following a steel pattern. The handles were turned green and then kiln dried. As I mentioned before, sapwood was used as well as heartwood. Spotted Gum has a particularly thick sapwood so it is ideal in this regard.

Hickory is often touted as being the preferred timber for handles, but a quick glance at the specifications for both timbers shows that Spotted Gum is superior in many areas: Strength, density, rupture, hardness and modulus of elasticity (Wood in Australia - Keith Bootle.)

I think that some of Hickory's reputation stems from the selection. Not all Hickory was used: I am not clear on the percentage, but it is quite possible that only a quite limited amount was suitable for handles.

The differences, even perceived superiority, are likely so small it is not worth the time and effort of chasing Hickory down. There is probably more mileage in selecting a suitable handle from the hardware store for grain orientation etc. Fashioning your own handle from a blank is even more satisfying, but not quite so quick :) .

Regards
Paul

[IanW]

..... Hickory is often touted as being the preferred timber for handles, but a quick glance at the specifications for both timbers shows that Spotted Gum is superior in many areas: Strength, density, rupture, hardness and modulus of elasticity (Wood in Australia - Keith Bootle.)

I think that some of Hickory's reputation stems from the selection. Not all Hickory was used: I am not clear on the percentage, but it is quite possible that only a quite limited amount was suitable for handles.....

Paul, I tend to agree that Hickory's biggest advantage is its reputation. There are many woods that can make perfectly good handles for striking tools. Some of the Acacias are very similar in their properties to Hickory (several get the common name 'hickory wattle'). They have an advantage to me that they are a little les dense than SG, and tend to be a bit easier to put a nice, splinter-free surface on than any of the Spotty I've come across (barring that piece you gave me, perhaps). I very much agree that selection of the piece is everything. For example, the Acacias around my place are extremely variable - some are very short-grained & carrot-like, while the tree growing a few metres away (same sp as far as I can tell), will yield tough wood that can be bent close to 180 degrees before a single fibre shreds. My problem is, it can be very hard to pick one from t'other, just looking at the wood, though a good clue is that the denser wood tends to be the good stuff.

I should think that sapwood could be used to advantage in a handle. In general, sapwood is more elastic & will take more tension than heartwood, so for e.g., bowyers put the sapwood on the 'out'-side of the bow. If you work your handle so that the sapwood is on the side that incurs the most tension in use, it ought to be beneficial. Just watch out for borers in susceptible woods... :U

Cheers,

[Bushmiller]

Ian

I forgot to add the proviso that out of the commercially available species Spotted Gum stands head and shoulders above the rest. I was also thinking about timber to which somebody living in the city might have access. You, and I, are lucky in having access at times to other suitable species.

Your point about borers is a good one, particularly with spotted gum. It would be advisable to treat it with some sort of insecticide. I always forget to do this.

Regards
Paul

[rsser]

There's plenty of Fraxinus around cities and towns and that's also good for handles. (BTW I'm not suggesting a midnight raid with a chainsaw.)

Spotty I've only ever used as a plane testing piece. A lovely cranky grained lump it is. It's a bit oily. Is that normal? Would add to its virtues for handles perhaps.

As for sapwood/heartwood, someone on the web reports some testing with Hickory and couldn't see any difference.

[Bushmiller]

There's plenty of Fraxinus around cities and towns and that's also good for handles. (BTW I'm not suggesting a midnight raid with a chainsaw.)

Spotty I've only ever used as a plane testing piece. A lovely cranky grained lump it is. It's a bit oily. Is that normal? Would add to its virtues for handles perhaps.

As for sapwood/heartwood, someone on the web reports some testing with Hickory and couldn't see any difference.

Ern

I don't think Spotty is oily like some woods, but it can be difficult to work. Probably leave your attractive cranky grained material for other purposes. Straight grain is what we are chasing here.

I think the significance of Spotty in milling is that it is normally discarded. In this instance and for this purpose it is treasured.

Regards
Paul

[L.S.Barker1970]

Ern

I don't think Spotty is oily like some woods, but it can be difficult to work. Probably leave your attractive cranky grained material for other purposes. Straight grain is what we are chasing here.

I think the significance of Spotty in milling is that it is normally discarded. In this instance and for this purpose it is treasured.

Regards
Paul

I have used spotted gum for handles and had good results, Its been a very durable timber, even for some of the maul heads as well.
Another little axe that I am quite fond of is my Keesteel corrugated, found by an good friend very rusty and pitted, cleaned it up as best as I could and fitted a handle.
it actually gets a bit of use.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355001/IMG_20160131_143746_535_zpsbjzafzr8.jpg
Melbourne Matty.

[IanW]

There's plenty of Fraxinus around cities and towns and that's also good for handles....

Ern, most of the Fraxinus I've seen as street trees in Victoria are cultivars of desert Ash F. angustifolia, (Claret, Golden, etc.) are they not? It's a very different animal from the European or Nth American species that make good handles & wheel spokes. I've used it a bit for chair spindles, but it's quite brittle compared with the white Ash from Canada, which I have also used a bit. It's possibly ok for handles compared with some other woods (like Toona australis :;) but not really suited to axe or hammer handles, I would think.

So leave the trees on the nature strip......
:U
Cheers,

[Bushmiller]

I think the significance of Spotty in milling is that it is normally discarded. In this instance and for this purpose it is treasured.

Regards
Paul

Ooops. Left out the all important word. Should have read like this:


I think the significance of Spotty in milling is that sapwood is normally discarded. In this instance and for this purpose it is treasured.

:-

Regards
Paul

[rsser]

Ian, yes, the local stuff is Claret and Golden. Thanks for that warning.

Matty, I've seen those in the catalogues. What was the thinking behind the corrugated cheeks do you think? Reduce sticking?

[woodsurfer]

Reading this thread coincided with a major workshop clean out,this axe inherited from Dad ,who passed in 78,he was a bower bird,no use for an axe ,a bit of a clean up revealed Plumb, USA,I used Plumb hammers as a framing carpenter over there,summer job for a Aussie ski bum, nice Hickory Handle,probably time to find a new home for it,thanks for your massive body of knowledge,Rossco

[rsser]

A good 'lucky dip' find woodsurfer. I'd be interested to know how hard the steel is. Have read about varying experiences.

@Matty re maul heads, acc to D. Cook in The Ax Book, root stems were favoured for maul heads in the US. You can imagine why.

[rsser]

The replacement for the Helko light axe is a Husqvarna 'All Round Axe' (from Arbormaster in Melb). These are contracted out by Husky to varying makers apparently. Has been Wetterlings; this is probably Hultafors. You don't get a boutique finish nor do you pay that price. This design I think falls into the category of a half axe - for general work in light cross-cutting, limbing and splitting.

Specs:

26" long, hickory handle
850g head
85mm bit width
Swedish steel alloyed with silicon, magnesium and vanadium
25º included bevel angle

It comes in need of sharpening and an edge protector is included. Roughly treated it probably wouldn't take much for the edge to contact the rivets in the protector.
Behind the bevel the cheeks run flat for about 60mm and make for a fairly thin body. From there a concave curve leads to the body around the eye.

Quality:

Grain alignment and fit in the eye are good.
The balance isn't brilliant. More weight in the poll is needed.
As with the Helko, the cheeks are not quite symmetrical and the cutting edge is 2-3mm off the head centre-line.
There was no noticeable dulling of the edge after 10 minutes of cutting into dry Silky.
It could cross-cut quite deeply and very cleanly. There was a tendency to stick after a deep cut. The light weight and manoeuvrability means more strikes to the minute and it wasn't that far behind the Kelly four and a half pounder on the Silky log.
With that head shape and weight you wouldn't expect it to be much chop for splitting and it wasn't on the Silky. But to be fair that lump was a foot and a half and Silky fibres cling.

370326370325

[L.S.Barker1970]

Matty, I've seen those in the catalogues. What was the thinking behind the corrugated cheeks do you think? Reduce sticking?

Ern, I'm gonna go with decoration, I can't see any other reason, like the courragated hand plane base, some believe its a solution to friction, I'm not convienced.
Many thanks for the info on the US mauls
I'll take a look !

Melbourne Matty.

[rsser]

I guess it changes the size to weight ratio. Maybe it was to economise on steel.

...

This is a good read: An Ax Primer (http://thewoodslife.com/?p=271)

[1thumb]

Ern, I'm gonna go with decoration, I can't see any other reason, like the courragated hand plane base, some believe its a solution to friction, I'm not convienced.
Many thanks for the info on the US mauls
I'll take a look !

Melbourne Matty.


Could be a ringbarking axe
Drive it in and squirt the poison down the face. The grooves allow for better penetration into the wound

[Old-Biker-UK]

Here are my axes, or at least the ones I can find....
1. My 'Boy Scout' hand-axe by Brades. I managed to destroy a few New Forest trees and parts of Buckinhamshire with this back in the 50s, those were the days when small boys were allowed to carry sharp tools in public (I even sported a 7" sheath knife on my belt).

2. A Kent pattern axe marked "CORNELIUS WHITEHEAD & SONS CANNOCK" Crown "A.M. 1940" The A.M. stands for Air Ministry and as I understand it these were part of the kit in WW2 bombers so that the crew could cut their way out after a crash landing (assuming there was anyone left with the energy to wield an axe)

3. A COLLINS double-bit axe I bought many years ago (just because I had always wanted one...)

4. Top is my favourite small axe, French but unknown maker. I bought the head at a junk stall & made an ash handle. Lovely to use and keeps a very good edge.
Under is my Estwing that Father Christmas brought me a couple of years back. I love Estwing tools.....

5. A bit of fun, this was made for me in Zimbabwe, not sure what getting the tang red hot to make the socket in the handle did to the steel temper but it seems to keep a good edge and is a user.

Mark

[rsser]

Some interesting tools there Mark. Thanks for the show and tell.

How do you find the double-bit to use?

[rsser]

D. Hook in The Ax Book makes some interesting comments on the desirable head shape of the ideal axe (in plan).

Also on its profile. Axe cheeks from the forge he says are far too thick. The Kelly is getting slimmed down following this advice.

[goodvibes]

Hey axeheads.

I brought 1/2 a dozen axe heads today at a market for $2 each, and came up with, among other things, a Brades Cockatoo Made in England with a light rust covering but very cleanable. Happy days.

THe question though, is about a little hatchet which is marked MC with what looks like a cog wheel around the lettering.

Any ideas?