Acrylic Blanks

[smidsy]

Hei Guys,
Anyone used acrylic blanks, I got some today and was wondering what I need to do differently to wood when working with them.
Cheers
Paul

[Ian007]

not much, just use a sharp drill bit clear the drill hole often and glue up as normal.
I sand to 2000 wet & dry then used EEE they come up a treat.

Good luck.

Cheers Ian :)

[Sir Stinkalot]

Watch out for heat buildup as they can bubble if they get too hot.

[Toggy]

If you don't have any EEE; car duco cutting & polishing compund will do the trick nicely. I have also heard of brasso being used. Haven't tried it myself though.

Ken

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Brasso works fine, as does a paste made with fine baby talc & water. Silvo (the silverware cleaning equivalent of Brasso) on the other hand, isn't worth trying. DAMHIKT. :D

[Ruffy]

Watch out for heat buildup as they can bubble if they get too hot.

Can't say that often enough

beware the heat - not only can they bubble but ridges can form and that is a wee bit nasty:eek:

[macca2]

Paul, I have turned numerous pens from bought acrylic blanks and also from Corian. This is the material used for kitchen bench tops.
Both turn well. I use a very sharp skew chisel and sand to 1000, and then use Brasso followed by EEE.
The only bit to watch is the drilling. Make sure you drill slowly and clear the drill often.

Good luck

Macca

[smidsy]

Hei Macca,
I haven't used these yet, but I was at the wood show yesterday, the GF liked the look of them and there was a little stall selling the blanks for half the price ($10 a 5 pack) of Carbatec and Timbecon so I grabbed some.

Generally for pens I find myself using a Hameltt half inch bowl gouge for roughing (I know it's the wrong tool but that gouge is just so damn nice to hold) and then a Hamlett half in skew for the real work.

I shall get some pen kits this week and have a play.
Cheers guys
Paul

[Milty]

Hei Guys,
Anyone used acrylic blanks, I got some today and was wondering what I need to do differently to wood when working with them.
Cheers
Paul
Hi
I have found that turning is actually easy on the acrylics,but on the finishing side i have come up trumps with liquid sandpaper and to final of padding laquer made by goblins in South Africa-please contact me if you can not find a similar product,i will help you where i can!
Good luck

[Sprog]

Brasso works fine, as does a paste made with fine baby talc & water. Silvo (the silverware cleaning equivalent of Brasso) on the other hand, isn't worth trying. DAMHIKT. :D

However, Silvo is great for cleaning glass :D :D
Wipe it on, leave to dry a few seconds, buff it off with a soft cloth - clear as.

[Sprog]

Sharp tools and a light touch is required.
Avoid any heat buildup.
Sand from 180 to 400 using very light pressure. Do not let the sand paper stay in contact for too long.
Sand with 0000 steel wool, again with light pressure, you do not want any heat build up.
Polish with Brasso applied with toweling, firm pressure but avoid the heat buildup. Buff off with clean toweling.
Again polish with Brasso applied with toweling, this time with very light pressure. Buff off with clean toweling.
Beautiful deep lustrous finish with no scratches.

[DanP]

Same as Sprog till I get to 400. Then I wet sand 600 and then 1000 W&D then EEE and that's it. No fuss, brilliant finish every time.

Dan

[westpest]

Paul

The blanks you bought at the show are not the same type of Acrylic that is sold at CTec but Timbercon is the sole outlet for these blanks. They are made by the man that was selling them in Perth. This type of Acrylic is very soft compared to the other type and needs a lot less sanding. The man say's to only sand to 400 and then use car polish to finish off. I haven't tried them yet but a friend has and he had a cracking problem when almost through whilst drilling. Perhaps because the material is softer it binds a bit more and gets a little hotter.

DanF

[DanP]

I haven't tried them yet but a friend has and he had a cracking problem when almost through whilst drilling.

I have had the same problem with all blanks, timber (burl) and acrylic alike. I now find that the best method of drilling is to cut the blanks slightly over length (about 10 mm) drill to a couple of mm from the end then trim off the excess, exposing the drilled hole. As long as you clear the drill often, you won't have any problems.

Dan

[Jim Carroll]

As with both types of Acrylics The CT Acrylic (http://au.store.yahoo.com/cws-store/marpenblan.html)type and the Opalac (http://au.store.yahoo.com/cws-store/opalacacrylics.html)
You can finish to a high polish using wet & dry up to 2000g ,

I prefer to use the wet & dry wet but with a drop of dishwashing liquid in to help lubrication. Also try to use a light hand as too much pressure will just put more scratches in and a heat build up will bubble up.

As for breaking just before getting throught the end it is usually due to a build up of material in the flutes of the drill and creating more heat. You have to keep the flutes clear more often with both materials.
A lot more care is required but good results can be had.

[DanP]

As for breaking just before getting throught the end it is usually due to a build up of material in the flutes of the drill and creating more heat. You have to keep the flutes clear more often with both materials.


Jim,

I find that the blanks cracking can also be due to when the drill breaks through at the bottom of the blank, it tends to grab and pull through. When it does, it pushes the uncut portion outwards causing the break. I have had this happen a lot of times and I clear the drill every 5mm or so while drilling the blanks. Allthough the reason I clear them so often is due to breaking blanks from build up of swarf. :rolleyes:

Dan

[Ruffy]

I have found using bullet point bits the best, so far (touch wood ;) ) I have had no problems with any of the acrylics. As others have said clear the flutes regularly and take it nice and easy.

If you want to get the bullet points, the only ones who sell them that I have found a the larger De-Walt stockists as De-Walt are the only ones I know who bring them into Australia, they are not cheap, but then what good drill bit is.

Of course there are probably many others out there who may know of another source :D

[darley]

I have found using bullet point bits the best, so far (touch wood ;) ) I have had no problems with any of the acrylics. As others have said clear the flutes regularly and take it nice and easy.

If you want to get the bullet points, the only ones who sell them that I have found a the larger De-Walt stockists as De-Walt are the only ones I know who bring them into Australia, they are not cheap, but then what good drill bit is.

Of course there are probably many others out there who may know of another source :D

You're correct Ruffy De Waltt are the best, you can find then at Bunnigs store ( they would order them for you ). when I drill acrylic or corian I drill at 1200 rpm very slow and to prevent heat build up at the bit drill I squize few drops of water, I cut my pen blanks 3 to 5 m/m longer to prevent cracking, I cut to the right size on the band saw,

[Woodgrub]

I use compressed air to cool the drill bit while drilling and it clears the drill flutes quickly

[dazzler]

Sheeeesh:mad:

Shoulda searched b4 turning....

Damn ridgy bubbly scratching dull stoooopid (&(^(^&^&^&**^%$^:mad:

Note to self;

Search, read then turn:rolleyes:

[lady_turner]

You people have been so helpful...just bought 2 different lots of acrylic blanks yesterday for pens , and found this discussion...
the advise has been well noted! dont want to stuff them up!

[Tornatus]

G'day L-T

If I may add my 20 cents worth - I have found from experience that the best way to drill acrylic pen blanks is on the lathe, mounting the drill in a Jacobs Chuck in the tailstock. Most acrylic blanks are long enough to allow one end to be held in a chuck - I find the Vicmarc Long-Nose Jaws ideal for this purpose.

Use a "bullet point" drill as recommended above, and drill at the lathe's lowest speed setting. To avoid the dreaded heat problem, only drill about 10 mm at a time, then withdraw the bit, clean off the waste and cool the bit with a handy piece of wet sponge. I pre-measure the blank, and mark the drill bit, so that I know when I have drilled just past the length of one pen segment. I then stop the lathe, withdraw the drill, and saw off the first pen section with a razor saw. This avoids trying to drill too deep a hole and risking heat buildup at the bottom. Drill the second section and cut off as before.

The important points, whether drilling on the lathe or in a drill press, are to take your time, drill in gradual increments, and keep the bit cool.

Likewise, when turning the pen, take it easy and don't get too aggressive with the turning tools - a light touch is best. You will find that the acrylic gives off long "shavings", which are quite clingy and often wrap around the blank/mandrel, obscuring your view of the cutting. You just have to stop often and clear them away. To finish, use wet & dry sandpaper (dripping wet) and polish off with EEE or a cream polish (ie automotive).

Have fun!

[chrisb691]

What is a 'Bullet point' drill bit?

[Tornatus]

What is a 'Bullet point' drill bit?

G'day Chris

As soon as I have worked out how to use my daughter's new digital camera, I'll post a photo of a bullet point bit - it's easier than trying to describe one!

[chrisb691]

G'day Chris

As soon as I have worked out how to use my daughter's new digital camera, I'll post a photo of a bullet point bit - it's easier than trying to describe one!

Thanks mate. :)

[Tornatus]

What is a 'Bullet point' drill bit?

G'day Chris

As promised, here's a photo of the three bits I have used for drilling pen blanks.

The one on the left is a parabolic flute drill, which offers superior waste clearance and is particularly suited to drilling Dymondwood. It has the standard twist drill triangular tip, however, and may not track well in cranky-grained woods.

The centre bit is a brad point drill, excellent for all normal wood blanks.

The right-hand bit is the so-called "bullet point" drill (it is probably known by another name to metal-workers). This design tracks very well through acrylic blanks, and seems to be less prone to heat build-up, although it should still be kept cool and cleared often. It also tracks well through Australian hardwoods and cranky-grained timbers.

The only place I have been able to buy the bullet-point bits is from a local De Walt dealer - I don't know if anyone else makes/sells them. The parabolic flute bits were imported from the US by a pen dealer, and are fairly expensive.

[chrisb691]

Thanks Tornatus,

I did some googling, and found a few references to bullet point, but couldn't find any photos that actually showed what it looks like at the tip. Your photos are excellent, and are very clear.

Speaking of photos. I am very new to pen turning, but am finding that the most difficult part is getting the photos on a digital camera. How did you go about taking those shots?

[Tornatus]

Speaking of photos. I am very new to pen turning, but am finding that the most difficult part is getting the photos on a digital camera. How did you go about taking those shots?

Thanks, Chris.

My big secret for taking good digital photos is - get your kids to take them!

My 16 year-old daughter is studying photography at college with the aim of becoming a photo-journalist. She has already worn out one digital camera, so we have just bought her a new Nikon Coolpix P2, which is a beautiful example of modern miniaturized high technology. You can use it just for automatic "point&shoot" happy snaps, but it can also be controlled manually for special aperture and shutter speed effects. Excellent value for money in the under-$500 range.

We were reading through the manual, learning about the features of the camera, and I said "I need to take a photo for the pen-turning forum - let's use it as a test shoot." After I had made several (poor) attempts at producing a clear image, she said "Oh, give it to me, Dad!" - the photo I posted was the result.

She has made it clear that any future woodwork photos I need will be on a commission basis, but has promised me discount rates ....

[chrisb691]

Ah!, it's all so clear now. I'm an old sod..therefore can't take digital photo's. The solution is to send the pens to you, and your daughter will take the photos. :D :D :D :D :D

[rodent]

SMIDSY some of the guys might disagre but in this cold weather after i drill (500rpm) glue & trim the blanks .I put them in the lathe put the warm lights on them go get a cuppa and then start turning them . Ive had them shatter in the cold weather , im not getting them hot just off cold . but as the guys say wet sand (water) and wet polish if its too warm to hold its too hot let it cool down compresed air is good.

[rodent]

try dewalt for the drill bits you can also get them from mashine shop suppliers blackwoods etc