Cutting very thin veneer for inlay.

[Cleokitty]

Hi, does anyone have any tips about avoiding splintering when cutting very thin veneer (less than 1 mm) for inlay, with a scrollsaw, please? (I'm using a scrollsaw because of temporary problems with my right paw so can't use a jeweller's saw). So far I've concluded that I need to permanently adhere it to a substrate so it doesn't splinter. I don't know what material will work. I'm using good-quality blades.

Rather than repeating all I've already asked and the good information I've been given, there is more information about the saga here:

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f19/scroll-occasional-200174/4#post1935708

I'd really appreciate some suggestions.

[Arron]

Hi Cleokitty,
thats a common question and the usual answer given is 'veneer tape'. Reinforce the veneer by sticking the tape wherever you think it is likely to break. Keep the tape on till its time for final assembly, then wet it to remove.

Veneer tape can be quite hard to buy but you can always make your own - just use Uhu Gum (thats Uhu gum, not Uhu glue) and some paper.

You can also use masking tape. You will need the good stuff - not the crepey stuff you buy in hardware stores. I use Magpie tape, which I get from a Panelbeater supply place, but I suspect that blue painters masking tape will do too.

In years gone buy I have also tried to stick the veneer to just about everything before cutting it - like thin mdf, plywood, cardboard, other pieces of veneer etc, but though they all kind of work they cause more problems then they solve.

There are a few more things you can think about:

Make sure the blade hole in the table insert (the one through which the blade travels) is as small as possible. Sort of a zero clearance insert for scroll saws. This will fully support the workpiece from below.

Think about blade size. I use mostly 3/0 pinless blades, but also 5/0. Small blades have smaller teeth and so are more tractable. Keep away from skip-tooth blades, the workpiece can get between the teeth. Blades labelled as 'puzzle blades' or 'jigsaw puzzle blades' are usually good - they usually are about 3/0 and have lots of small teeth which are very tractable. Of course the negative with a fine blade is they dont track as well as a wider blade - so its a tradeoff.

Get a foot switch. When you get into a tight spot, just turn off - stop and think, then resume. i do this a lot with very tight corners - turn off, realign the workpiece, then restart. Mine is just a $9 job from Aldi.

Veneer type has a lot to do with it. Some veneers make it much easier - tulipier, pearwood, sycamore. Generally, Aussie timber veneers are hard and splintery and best staying away from.

I also use a hand-held hold-down a fair bit - whenever I can see a splintering situation coming up. Its just a thin piece of timber with a tapered end which has a 'V' cut in it. I hold the veneer down with this, the V allows me to get it right in close to the blade - in fact on either side of the blade. Its particularly good for stopping the blade from raising the veneer.

And finally, be realistic in your expectations. Scroll saws were never designed for cutting commercial veneers and commercial veneers were never intended for cutting in a scroll saw. Generally, I reserve the scroll saw for coarser marquetry patterns, ones with larger pieces and gentle curves. If I want tight detail I cut by hand using a scalpel.

There is also nothing wrong with combining methods. Cut most of the job in the scroll saw, but finish the really tight detail with a scalpel.

And be aware that most of the 'masters' who you will see on utube or whatever using a scrollsaw for marquetry or related work are actually using thicker veneers - say 1mm+ - though they usually dont make this clear. Its tempting to use commercial (ie 0.64mm thick) veneers because they are so readily available but they are not a good combination with scroll saws.

cheers
Arron

[Cleokitty]

Arron, thank you so much for that excellent, detailed response. I'll reply more later as I'm just going out (will swing by Aldi and look for a foot switch.) Thanks again, Jen

[Cleokitty]

Hi again Arron,

To respond to your suggestions and advice:

I haven’t tried ‘real’ veneer tape yet. I have used the good-quality blue painters’ tape. Staples has 4 L containers of the Uhu gum and mentions smaller squeeze bottles which I haven’t located on their site yet. I’ve also used a glue stick to stick cut out pieces down to wax paper to assemble the design into a unit. I’ll try that with paper too.

Sticking the veneer to cardboard just resulted in a furry mess; as you noted, a different problem

I note your comments about blades. Thanks for that info

As mentioned, the problem with my right paw is what drove me to the scrollsaw instead of using a jewellers’ saw or scalpel. The few pieces I’ve cut by hand were much cleaner edged but also difficult for me to do. I’ll try the combined saw/hand cutting approach.

I’m using the thin veneers because I was given a large selection of different types and colours, many quite beautifully figured. I can’t bring myself to not try to use them. They are from Europe so I’m not battling the Australian hardwoods. I did one experiment using a thin piece of silky oak as backing but that didn’t work for me either, too splintery.

So far I haven’t had any problems with the blade pulling the veneer down through the hole in the insert, just lifting it up. I really like the idea of the hold-down you describe. I’ll look into making one. That combined with a foot switch sounds much more promising than what I’m doing. I checked Aldi and they don’t currently have them. Until I know if I’m going to persevere with the scrollsaw I’m reluctant to spend a lot on a switch so hope Aldi gets them again.

Perhaps anyone seeing that Aldi has them can post an alert here. That would be helpful.

Thanks again, Aaron, for sharing your experience and pointing out the limitations. That will save me from a lot of wasted effort. Jen