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View Full Version : MC1100 stand or my lousy skills.



Shekel
15th August 2005, 06:06 PM
Hi, I have an MC1100 which I'm having some issues with. The majority vote on this site seems to be that the flimsy stand that comes with the lathe needs a bit of work. I seem to get occasional amounts of dig in and I was wondering whether the stand is vibrating and causing the tool to get knocked around and so, dig in. There doesn't appear to be any vibration that I can feel but I can't tell the difference between what should be vibrating and what shouldn't.

My problem is that I dont have the space to permanently put the lathe.
I was just wondering what the symptoms are if the frame isn't adequately secured. There probably a good chance that the problems might be caused by my skill level ( absolute beginner ).

I was wondering whether there was anyone in the area ( Diamond Creek/Eltham ) who also had a MC1100 who has it bolted down so I could do a comparison.

Then again, I suppose I could always take a lesson or two .

Cheers
Shek

Sprog
15th August 2005, 07:15 PM
A lesson or two could be in order.
Sounds like technique. :D :D :D

I have an MC1100 not boltrd down and there is no movement or vibration.

Stuart
15th August 2005, 07:40 PM
I don't have the stand- but what about hanging some sandbags off it- could be removed when necessary, if hanging almost to ground level would do a good job of dropping the centre of gravity right down, and if the bag was partially in contact with the ground, the vibration absorption of sand would be an added bonus.

La truciolara
15th August 2005, 11:27 PM
.... I seem to get occasional amounts of dig ....Shek

To check if the lathe is vibrating just put your hand on it while running.
The reason of the dig might be that
your chisel is not sharpen enough
your wood has soft parts within hard ones
your experience might need some exercices...:)

woodb woody
15th August 2005, 11:37 PM
I have a WL 18 which is much the same sort of lathe.It is not bolted down yet.I have turned a bowl out of a piece of maple 8 inches in dia.by 4 1nches.the only vibration i had was when I use a larger scraper which I should have sharpened first.

smidsy
16th August 2005, 11:57 AM
If the vibration was enough to effect your turning you would be following the lathe as is meandered around your workshop - I've had mine vibrating quite badly and still been able to hold the chisel ok.

Find a turning club in your area and get some lessons.
Cheers
Paul

Utuk_Xul
16th August 2005, 11:26 PM
I have an mc900 and have never had trouble with dig-in due to vibration. Most dig-ins are due to inadequate experience with the chisels. Give yourself more time you'll get the hang of it. :)

I recommend you find a group in your area or someone who can give you lessons if possible. I am mostly self taught and it took LOTS of practice to get the feel for the different cutting tools and how they interact with different wood densities. I learned from books, videos and the internet. Sites like this one in particular are great sources for information on technique and equipment. I'm not saying you won't have catches, but you will have less. I haven't had a catch in a long time. You kind of learn when the chisel is not cutting right and to back off and change your angle of approach. Unless you are using scrapers...always keep the bevel rubbing. First point of contact is the toolrest...next introduce the bevel to the wood and slowly bring the cutting edge into contact. You will find the optimal position just keep at it.

tonysa
17th August 2005, 12:02 AM
i have very limited experience turning and even so have to agree with Utuk_Xul and the others. My catches were all technique.

It took a while but it finally sunk in after many catches. Even the skew isn't as daunting as it first was.

Quote: Unless you are using scrapers...always keep the bevel rubbing. First point of contact is the toolrest...next introduce the bevel to the wood and slowly bring the cutting edge into contact. You will find the optimal position just keep at it.

Can't stress that enough.
Practice on scrap wood until you get nice shavings coming off.
Then you know you're cutting, not a scaping.
Very gratifying when it happens !
Try on green wood, its easier to get nice shavings.


Good luck and keep persevering
It might not happen overnight, but it will happen.

Cheers
Tony

gatiep
18th August 2005, 12:30 AM
Shek,

Technique is the culprit, do as UX and Tony have suggested. We have 6 MC1100 and 1 MC200 amongst the lathes in the turning class room, none bolted down. The students that follow instructions and rub the bevel of their gouges, skew etc have very few dig ins.

I have no idea where Diamond Creek is. Try the following. Let the body of the gouge make contact with the toolrest first, the point higher than the wood, try on about 50 mm diameter between centres first, then carefully rub the gouge against the spinning wood. Now slide the point down, by lifting the handle of the gouge while sliding the gouge down, do not loose contact with the tool rest. Once the bevel rubs on the wood, go very slow and when you see some 'powder' appear on the cutting edge, the gouge is starting to cut. A very slight further downward movement of the cutting edge will give you the ideal cut.Keep that bevel rubbing. You can practice to get to the bevel rubbing stage with the wood stationary in the lathe. Then after making sure the wood iand the toolrest are secure, switch on, set the speed on the MC at about 1/3 position and repeat the excercise. Keep the movements smooth and you'll soon get into it.
If you try and poke the gouge willy nilly at the wood you'll end up with a dig everytime. Soon you'll learn to judge the bevel rubbing angle, keep the gouge sharp, its not rocket sience but practice, practice and then start practicing again. 45 mm square pine is a good starting point, use scrap and keep the good stuff for later.
I hope my explanation is clear. Obviously its much easier demonstrating to the student than explaining it over the net.
Good luck, keep at it!

tonysa
18th August 2005, 01:23 AM
good clear and concise description of technique Gatiep, I'm impressed !
But then again I reckon you've been through this a few times before.

Cheers
Tony

Shekel
19th August 2005, 01:35 PM
Hi, thanks for all your advice. Sorry about the slow reply. It would appear that my technique is the culprit. I haven't had a chance to try out the technique suggestions but I'm got them etched in my mind now. I've read Mike Darlow's books quite a few times and I guess they didn't sink in enough.

It's my birthday soon so I think I might angle for a sharpening jig to get an edge on the chisels. Although having a round edge doesn't do quite as much damage when you drop it on your foot, it's not quite the desired shape for wood turning.

So, technique, sharp tools and time. Sounds so simple, why didn't I think of that before???

Cheers, keep up the good advice, it's very much appreciated.

Thanks to Sprog, Stuart, LaTruc.., Woodb, Smidsy, Utuk, Tonysa & Gatiep. You may have strange names and I think you should talk to your parents about that but your combined experience is invaluable. ;)

Shekel.

La truciolara
19th August 2005, 08:26 PM
.... You may have strange names and I think you should talk to your parents about that .... ;)
Shekel.
:)
La Truciolara in an invented italian name. Truciolo in Italian means shavings... therefor truciolara could be either the place where you make the shavings, or a lady making shavings while turning. :)

GO for it with all your good intentions as I am looking forward to reading your nex message where you will tell us it is all working smoothly, and in which you will show us your master piece. Enjoy your turning

RETIRED
19th August 2005, 09:28 PM
Thanks to Sprog, Stuart, LaTruc.., Woodb, Smidsy, Utuk, Tonysa & Gatiep. You may have strange names and I think you should talk to your parents about that but your combined experience is invaluable. ;)

Shekel.
And Shekel is...... :D