Router plane

[kenour]

We only have one router plane at TAFE, and I'm sick of waiting to borrow it. So thought I would have a go at making one for next time we're in.

I started with a chisel that I got for xmas many years ago, never really used it because I have a set. Cut the bevels off and made a mortising chisel.

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Sharpened it up, made the sides nice and flat, and honed it.

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Searched the firewood pile for a suitable bit of wood, dressed it.

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Used the chisel to help shape the body and cut the hole that will house the cutter.

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Once I finished using it, heated it up, bent it over, made sure it was square, then used a file to take off the high points that formed during bending.

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Cutter is currently in the oven, will pop it in tomorrow and give it a go.

I will continue to shape the body, not sure what the final shape will be, currently letting my grip define where I remove material.

[Chief Tiff]

Old Allen keys are a popular choice for blades too; no heat treatment required. Just go easy with the grinder!

You don't want the blade to be exactly at right angles to the stem; leave it short of square by about 5 degrees tops. In use you need some clearance behind the blade tip or the whole thing will just rub.

[kenour]

Yeah I didn't bend the blade all the way to 90, even though it looks like it in the photo. Here's a better one! Just got it out of the oven.

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Might whack it in and see how it goes :)

[kenour]

Wow, works unbelievably well. Didn't expect it to just work like that!

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[Chief Tiff]

Impressive; I must admit I thought it would chatter like buggery with the really thin section at the bend but it looks like you've avoided it.

Well done!

[orraloon]

Nice job on the router plane. A very handy tool to have.
Regards
John

[derekcohen]

How do you adjust the blade? Up and down?

One of the important features of a router plane is a depth stop, allowing you to sneak up on the desired final depth. Can you incorporate one?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Christos]

Very nicely done.

You required something for a job and made something to suit. :2tsup::2tsup:

[kenour]

How do you adjust the blade? Up and down?

The hole I made is tapered, I hold the blade in with a wedge. Tap with a hammer to adjust.

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[lightwood]

The hole I made is tapered, I hold the blade in with a wedge. Tap with a hammer to adjust.

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Kenour,
Nice job on that tool!
You are in good company.

Here is a Mathieson made router, made in Scotland around the late 1800s or early 1900s, like yours it is adjusted with a hammer.
http://www.members.optushome.com.au/peterjmcbride/gallery/images/math_router1.jpg

Some advice will come your way to forgo the traditional ways, and embrace the all new better path.

Once you master the adjustment of that tool with a hammer, you will not only be able to adjust a tool, but also use a hammer with finesse.
If you take that path with your tool use, as you seem to be doing, you will, just as a by-product of your traditional tool making and use, become more fluent in the use of ALL hand tools.
Traditional tool use in old fashion ways is often actively discouraged. Folk will say things like...
"did you you know there is faster, and easier way to do this? Another tool has better features you need to have."

My answer is ... "I'm enjoying this, why do you want to take away my happiness, and replace it with your notion of a better, faster way to do it.

Cheers,
Peter

[derekcohen]

The hole I made is tapered, I hold the blade in with a wedge. Tap with a hammer to adjust.

Peter is right. Your design does not lend itself to a depth stop - it would have been an idea if you had used a screw/U-bolt to hold the blade.

How is the blade holding up?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[kenour]

Peter is right. Your design does not lend itself to a depth stop - it would have been an idea if you had used a screw/U-bolt to hold the blade.

How is the blade holding up?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I don't get it? The wedge holds the blade, I adjust the blade by tapping it into position, then giving the wedge a tap to hold if firm. Works for me. I just sneak up on the scribe line/pencil mark by taking a little off at a time. Haven't had an issue.

I did see a few designs with screws and bolts, but didn't see the point. I mean, I understand why it would be easier, but I enjoy the challenge of adjusting things by hand. I find it's rapidly training my hands and eyes.

Blade is doing fine, only had to touch it up once after trying it out on some old red gum (the same stuff used to make the body). I might change the grind angle though, make it a bit steeper.

[derekcohen]

I don't get it? The wedge holds the blade, I adjust the blade by tapping it into position, then giving the wedge a tap to hold if firm. Works for me. I just sneak up on the scribe line/pencil mark by taking a little off at a time. Haven't had an issue.

I did see a few designs with screws and bolts, but didn't see the point. I mean, I understand why it would be easier, but I enjoy the challenge of adjusting things by hand. I find it's rapidly training my hands and eyes.

Blade is doing fine, only had to touch it up once after trying it out on some old red gum (the same stuff used to make the body). I might change the grind angle though, make it a bit steeper.

It is easier to set a depth, which will be consistent across all mating pieces, and then sneak up to this depth (dropping the blade down by a smidgeon each pass) without having to repeatedly measure at the final depth. You will understand if you have any experience with a rebate plane.

Rather than use a scale, most of the time I transfer measurements with a marking gauge from one piece to the next. The depth stop is a variation of that.

Sounds like you did a good job with the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[kenour]

Ahh I think I know what you mean, you set a depth that the blade bottoms out at, then you can adjust up but not down? Didn't notice this feature on the one at school, we all share a Record 71.

At the moment we're just using it to clean out the bottom of a box we're making for our oil stones.

[derekcohen]

That's it. I don't see a way to add one to yours. As mentioned earlier, a depth stop is not used on router planes such as yours.

Here is one on a Veritas, being used to groove a bowed drawer front. It is a collar on the main shaft ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingTheDrawers_html_643b4b90.jpg

Use yours as is intended. I am impressed with it. It looks better than anything I built at your stage of woodworking.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lightwood]

If you want to use your terrific new router the way Derek does in that pic.. Think of a way to come to the depth, and a way to add a fence.
Look around your workshop for a solution.
Apply your mind to a make a simple "setting jig".
Once again, you will be using your hands and brain, and not your credit card to solve a woodwork challenge.
A trench in a short plank with a brass screw coming up from under. You could call it your "custom router adjuster jig"
Hehehe.
These kind of things are what I have tried to instill in the brains of aspiring hand workers.
Teaching them to LEARN how to make things, not teaching them how to make things.
A couple of super "keys" or left field solutions will, over time, give you the smarts to make quick "in the workshop" solutions that work quickly and effectively without a stumble, or hesitating. You will be well served in the future learning that skill, rather then looking in a tool catalogue or spending cash you don't have.
Cheers,
Peter

[lightwood]

Hi Kenour,
Just re-read my last post... wrote it in on the phone last night and mistakenly took out 2 words that were emphasizing the point I was making.

Teaching someone "to learn how to LEARN" was my original phrase.

The internet has provided a platform for a plethora of recently enlightened folk who are happy to show their newfound skills in a video, or to quickly google research a topic and post as an expert in the field giving currency to some really woolly ideas.
Maybe its because I've grown tired of trying to promote this philosophy of making things that I just don't follow the posted links to these performing clowns anymore .... I'm bored to tears by watching a recent tool purchase just "applied" to the work at hand, without the slightest empathy for the tool, or evidence of an ability to feel and adjust to the feedback the tools provide.
I've yet to see a proper description from one of these folk where they explain how to manipulate the grip on a tool to control its behaviour by using different fingers and the muscles in the palm and arms to squeeze a handle. Or other ways to adapt our body to the tool that's in the hand.
What they seem to want, and to promote ... is a tool that relieves them of the need to learn that. They'll talk about hang angle, tooth shape, graduated tooth size all helping the tool to do the work when "applied" to the work.
Perhaps its the responsibility of retail seller to meet the legislated requirement "that a product performs the function for which it was sold" that causes so much of this apparent need for instant success with a new tool purchase right out of the box. So there is an imperative to make a tool for the lowest skilled person to get an instant result. All this comes at a cost: multiple hundred dollar price tags for dovetail saws for example, and the tons of old tools going to scrap or landfill (I know, because that's where I've put the unsaleable ones, and those not worth the $ return or time to re-home)

A $10 plastic and steel bevel gauge will mark an angle as well as a $300+ one will. The line won't know which one was used to draw it.
I know what it's like to use and own very fine tools, and I've made some high price-tag jewellery for clients over the years, so I understand the concept of personal adornment and beauty in decoration for its own sake, and the enjoyment it provides. BUT, the well healed folk who have plenty of discretionary spending funds might be in a far different place than a student on a fixed, low budget. Making your own tools can combine the utility with the beauty .... or even the exotic.
If you don't have any of the exotic timbers to use in tool making, shout out. Over the years I've accumulated a steel two-door cupboard full of nice timbers.

I've not written about this for a while, ie. This philosophy of work. It seems to get me right in the sights of those who have a real enthusiasm for the new and burgeoning tool makes' products. But since I've watched you embrace the traditional tool use ... and especially here we are in "Homemade Tool and Jig Forum", I though it appropriate to run a few word together.

Good luck, it seems to me you have a passion to make a mark in this area, and I think you have started a similar path to one I traveled down 45 years ago, and I get a little nostalgic.

Cheers,
Peter

[Glenn.Visca]

Well done ... It's a fine job !

[derekcohen]

I've yet to see a proper description from one of these folk where they explain how to manipulate the grip on a tool to control its behaviour by using different fingers and the muscles in the palm and arms to squeeze a handle. Or other ways to adapt our body to the tool that's in the hand.
What they seem to want, and to promote ... is a tool that relieves them of the need to learn that.

Peter, I am in agreement with you ... although that may surprise you in view of some of our past "debates" on this forum. We both share an interest in tools and tool design - with yours a huge collection of some amazing vintage tools, while my area is understanding the ergonomics of modern tools. Still, my main interest is building furniture. The type of furniture I build is not built by tools, but by the hand guiding the tool. Keep in mind that I am just a passionate weekend warrior.

Here are the last two pieces I built. First, a copy of Hans Wegner's "The Chair" ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/WeavingSeatCompletingTheChair_html_m4441928f.jpg

And this one is not yet complete, a bow-fronted modern "bombe" ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/FinishingTheCarcase_html_64a44305.jpg

Hardly a straight line there.

And, because this is a handmade tool thread, a bridle plough based on one by Mathierson ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BridlePloughBuild_html_m4eb20c71.jpg

Now the point I want to make is that it took time to master handtools to the point where they are not the focus of my time in the workshop. That does not prevent me enjoying the aesthetic of a well-designed and attractive tool, and I'd rather use a beautiful tool than an ugly one. Still, they are just tools.

The forums are filled with new woodworkers, and they are still at a stage of mastering their tools. They are not at-one with them, and see them as the solution ... rather than the path. It took you time to master your tools, and you have spend some decades doing so. Give them time to mature.

Kenour, you are starting out on an apprenticeship. Some of us here - professionals in other fields, like myself - really envy the opportunity to express the passion we share. I hope that you build more tools as you explore deeper into the craft.

I came across a very interesting interview today, with links on the Old Tool forum - Peter, you likely have read this since you are a member as well. The interview was about the Masters training in woodworking in Germany, which is required to practice there.

Years ago, I read an article in FWW magazine about the training. Then (20 years?), the final exam consisted of building a "master" piece of furniture - drawing up the plans (for approval) and then constructing the piece (in a short period of time). To do this, one had to master a number of skills - administering the financial side of a business, interviewing clients, design, and machine and handtool skills.

What I found interesting about the current Masters model is that it now incorporates the use of the latest technology, including CNC and drafting plans on computers rather than any drawing by hand. Indeed, the final master piece of furniture is permitted to be built by CNC - the recognition is that the requirements of the examination need to replicate the real world. The world of handcrafting a piece of furniture appear to be history.

Links:

What It Takes to Become a Master Furniture Designer/Builder in Germany: Interview With a Master School Instructor, Part 1 - Core77 (http://www.core77.com/posts/51480/What-It-Takes-to-Become-a-Master-Furniture-DesignerBuilder-in-Germany-Interview-With-a-Master-School-Instructor-Part-1)

What It Takes to Become a Master Furniture Designer/Builder in Germany: Interview With a Master School, Part 2 - Core77 (http://www.core77.com/posts/51816/What-It-Takes-to-Become-a-Master-Furniture-DesignerBuilder-in-Germany-Interview-With-a-Master-School-Part-2)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ian]

Ahh I think I know what you mean, you set a depth that the blade bottoms out at, then you can adjust up but not down? Didn't notice this feature on the one at school, we all share a Record 71.

At the moment we're just using it to clean out the bottom of a box we're making for our oil stones.the one at school might be missing this bit

[lightwood]

the one at school might be missing this bit
Hi Ian,
Could you explain how you use that part as a depth stop?
Cheers,
Peter

[ian]

... while [one of my interests] is understanding the ergonomics of modern tools ... my main interest is building furniture. The type of furniture I build is not built by tools, but by the hand guiding the tool. Keep in mind that I am just a passionate weekend warrior. perhaps this is neither the time nor place to debate the phrase "weekend warrior", but I find its use in connection with your own and the work of many other amateurs offensive.

For some reason the term "weekend warrior" has been adopted by many to describe the mostly unskilled and clueless woodworker who is happy to bash out a [slab] bar table or two, or a rickety table, using nothing more than a circular saw, blunt chisel, steel hammer and drill/driver.

To my knowledge the phrase originates as a pejorative to describe part-time members of the military who only "soldier" on the days "real soldiers" have off. However, a weekend warrior has access to the same training and equipment as a professional soldier, the difference being mostly in the intensity of the training and how many bullets they are allowed to expend. The same is not true of woodworkers.

Some amateur (weekend) woodworkers are as skilled, in some cases more skilled, than many professionals, and a few have shops kitted out to a higher level of quality than many professionals. The difference being mostly in the speed at which they work -- there being no need for an amateur to earn a living from their work, enjoyment can be found in the making process rather than the financial return when the piece is sold. Further, freed from the constraint of earning a living, many amateurs have the time to develop and maintain the hand tool skills that a professional would find uneconomic -- especially in Australia.

As Chris Schwarz has noted, it will be committed amateurs who will maintain the hand tool skills that previous generations left to the professionals. To describe these persons as "weekend warriors" is an insult.

[ian]

Hi Ian,
Could you explain how you use that part as a depth stop?
Hi Peter

Unfortunately my father's 71 is in storage back in Australia, however Record Planes - Information and identification of Record Planes & Spokeshaves (http://www.record-planes.com) which describes itself as "The Definitive Resource For Record Planes Online" describes the part as "an adjustable shoe and gauge for closing the throat and also for regulating the depth of cut"
Ref Record No. 071 Router Plane - Record Planes (http://www.record-planes.com/record-no-071-router-plane/)

[lightwood]

Hi Peter

Unfortunately my father's 71 is in storage back in Australia, however Record Planes - Information and identification of Record Planes & Spokeshaves (http://www.record-planes.com) which describes itself as "The Definitive Resource For Record Planes Online" describes the part as "an adjustable shoe and gauge for closing the throat and also for regulating the depth of cut"
Ref Record No. 071 Router Plane - Record Planes (http://www.record-planes.com/record-no-071-router-plane/)


Hi Ian,
I was wondering why you were calling it a depth stop, but then almost everyone who doesn't use the plane calls it that as well.

Unfortunately that link above is another unreliable link to a recently enlightened expert. Google will find it, and it doesn't actually describe how to use it.
That one, and others from the same source, seem to me to be harvesting other peoples work.
Check out the whois info from that and tons of other tool and especially plane information webpages.

That post could be best described a "Depth Gauge" it cannot be put under the cutting edge of the blade and used as a depth stop.
The way it can be used on the plane, apart from supporting the throat closer on narrow stock, is to use the auxiliary throat closing foot as a stop, and invert it in the hole when the foot, acting as a collar, bottoms out the top of the hole .... then you've reached a gauged depth. It won't stop you there. If you continue lowering the blade, you will just keep cutting deeper.

You can also use it separate from the plane with the auxiliary foot acting as fence to make a rough but simple gauge for depth, to check as you go.

I love my grandfather's 071, and have used it for years. I actually used it way back in the 1960's when he was still alive, and now I go to it in a couple of ways he showed me and ways I've discovered since.

I've never liked the post and foot for gauging depth, and certainly wouldn't bother making it as a feature on any tool I made. I use a vernier caliper .. accurate and reliable.
What I do like about it though is using it to help align the blade, sort of keep it on the straight and narrow, with the blade following behind. But only making a groove the width of the posts 2 diameters.
The US made tool has instructions where they also suggest to use it as a type of chip breaker in front of the blade. I've not done that, but it might help in splintery woods like vic ash.
Might help in that way with work where the surface you are cutting is seen, otherwise no need really since it stops you getting into corners, and that's where I love that tool.

Cheers,
Peter

[lightwood]

And another thing ...
:U
Adding to idea that a simple tool can be made to be exotic.
Last Thursday evening I was visiting Rob (Auscab) and saw above his bench a router very similar to the one you made kenour.
BUT, on his bench was the most beautiful little ebony and brass depth gauge that he'd made.
I asked him if ever used it with the router.... Yes, and a lots of other things as well.
Looking at Rob's bench there are so many tools he's made, and so many made of ebony and brass!
The screws are from a drop handle, threaded internally with a threaded rod between them...lovely!
Cheers,
Peter

http://www.petermcbride.com/temp/images/depth_gauge1w.jpg
http://www.petermcbride.com/temp/images/depth_gauge2w.jpg