Help... Vicmarc adaptor doesn't fit

[asheddie]

Hi all,

I just bought a vicmarc VM150 chuck and a 1 3/8 x 6 adaptor from TimberBits. The chuck looks fantastic and I can't wait to test it out.

My spindle thread is also 1 3/8 x 6 but they don't match? It looks like the adaptor is an acme like thread with a V bottom but a flat top to the thread and my spindle is a standard V top and bottom.

I Rang David from TimberBits but his advice was that my thread gauge is wrong. I have two thread gauges and they both read the same.

The adaptor screws on about one rotation before jamming. It's very close, but I don't want to force it.

The lathe is a Wadkin RS-8

If anyone knows what I'm doing wrong can they please give me some advice. Hopefully I've just missed something simple!

Kind regards,

Ash.

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[asheddie]

I just rang Vicmarc and they're very helpful, but also not sure what to suggest. I thought I had was to run a file through my spindle thread to try and open it up a tad?

[asheddie]

377866

Well I'm going for a record of quickest fix here! I ran a file over the spindle to just take the very edge off and it worked! She's on.

Haha, easy fix here! Go to be happy with that!

[pommyphil]

Looks like the spindle is a bit long for the adaptor, is there clearance inside the chuck or will you need a washer ?

[Christos]

Nice quick fix.



Looks like the spindle is a bit long for the adaptor, is there clearance inside the chuck or will you need a washer ?


And just in case you are bored, here's another problem to consider.... :innocent: :lolabove:

[asheddie]

It's hard to see in the picture but the adaptor sits against the end of the thread and stops with about 5mm clearance. Hopefully this is enough? The thread poking through doesn't seem to bind on anything but I haven't had much time to have a good look yet. Never a dull moment... I'll do a proper write up with how I got this lathe and what I'm doing with it in the coming weeks.

[Jim Carroll]

You want the chuck and insert to seat properly, if not you could get some unwanted wobble.

Is there a reason you bought the 150 chuck when the 120 will do the same without the extra cost.

[asheddie]

You want the chuck and insert to seat properly, if not you could get some unwanted wobble.

Is there a reason you bought the 150 chuck when the 120 will do the same without the extra cost.


I'll have a good look at it tomorrow when I get some free time. Maybe a washer will be needed? It seems to turn very true as is though.

I went the 150 because it's such a big lathe, almost three quarters of a ton, and I don't want to be limited by size later on. The chuck looks small on a it!

The other reason is I'm a pen Turner and have no idea about big stuff! I just figured bigger is better... It's going to be a big learning experience I think.

[Vann]

I'll do a proper write up with how I got this lathe and what I'm doing with it in the coming weeks.Looking forward to it.

Cheers, Vann.

[Jim Carroll]

The jaw movement on the 150 is exactly the same as the 120 and all the jaws are fully compatible

The only difference is you can change it from using the allen key to move the jaws in and out, or put in slip mode where you can rotate the body to open and close the jaws.

That is the reason for the larger size to get the extra gearing into a small body.

Hopefully you have variable speed on this lathe as it is a big help to be able to control the larger peices.

[Christos]

..... it's such a big lathe, almost three quarters of a ton, .....


Ok you have me intrigued. What brand of lathe?

[Vann]

What brand of lathe?

The lathe is a Wadkin RS-8I'm envious. I wish I had room for one of those (at a price I could justify http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/mf_wink.gif).

Cheers, Vann.

[asheddie]

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Here she is... This was the day I picked it up a couple of weeks ago. I've got everything loosened up and most of the nuts, bolts and screws were finger tight once I cracked them open with a spanner. The bed is in great condition and the bearings are quiet and very tight. Quite surprising considering it spent some time outdoors. I bought it from an auction site for $400 as I was the only bidder. I've added a VFD to run it from single phase and replaced the drive belt. I tested it for lead paint and it came back negative so I'll strip it all down soon and paint it.
I'm chasing an original tool post and a tool rest. If anyone knows where to find parts for the old girl I'd really appreciate it.

I did read about the chuck having the slip mode, I don't know if I'll really need it? But it fits the lathe so I'm happy!

The VFD gives me to option to go from 0-1100 rpm and I still have the original gearing on the lathe. I installed a emergency stop switch too.

As for room, I don't have enough either! It's taking up the entire loading bay area of my shed... I'm really looking forward to getting into turning, I like the freestyle aspect to it.
I'll do a proper picture write up once I progress a bit further.

[Paul39]

Asheddie,

Referring to photo 3 in your first post: The register for the adapter to the spindle is the flat on the spindle and the unthreaded part behind the threads. The threads just hold it on. It looks as though the fit between the adapter unthreaded part and the spindle unthreaded part is quite close.

It would be good if the back of the adapter was snug against the flat of the spindle. You could get however many washers it would take to fill the gap and put them on the spindle and then run the adapter up nice and snug.

To prepare for the assembly, get some 400 grit sandpaper and light oil and sand the unthreaded part of the spindle and the flat at the back so they are shiny. This should take off any burrs. Check the inside unthreaded part of the adapter and the back for burrs.

Put a piece of 400 grit on a flat surface, table saw top, piece of plate glass, cut out from a granite counter, and rub the washers round and round on both sides to take off any burrs.

Clean and lightly oil everything and put together. Everything should be pretty concentric.

Anything that should be shiny that rotates can be polished up with light oil and 400 grit. The insides of the Morse Tapers and the male Morse taper bits can be cleaned up by heavily oiling and rotating by hand, wiping off rust from in and out, repeat until you are satisfied.

I would not try for shiny, a nice smooth brown will do.

Here is a site in case you haven't found it. Wadkin RS, RU & RUH Lathes

(http://www.lathes.co.uk/wadkin/)Another: Wadkin - Wadkin Library - 220 (http://www.wadkin.com/wadkin-library/view/220)

You stole that lathe, in the US the price would be around $4000.

[NeilS]

I did read about the chuck having the slip mode, I don't know if I'll really need it? But it fits the lathe so I'm happy!



If you don't like the 150, I'll swap you an as new 120 for the 150. I could even send you the 120 for a comparison... :U

If you are not using the jaw adjusting ring, you probably don't need the 150.

My early chucks all had that ring mechanism before the hex keys were introduced, so I'm used to them. Most turners like the hex key to adjust the jaws as they only require one hand to do so while the other holds the blank.

BUT, if you reckon you are going to be turning some hefty chunks of wood some day you may benefit from the claimed "stronger" jaw slides, although I have never found any slides on the other chucks (VM120 or Titan) inadequate to the task of hanging onto a 50kg lump of unbalanced of wood. Just keep the revs low until it is in balance.