Tool handle

[TongueTied]

Just completed making my first tool handle for a P&N Supergouge I picked up in Maleny. It is made from a piece of speed gum kindly given to me by a guy at Ironbark Timbers. I haven't forced the gouge all the way in yet as I explain below.

So here is my question: I drilled the hole for the gouge first and it is a 12mm hole which is what I measured off the tool. The tool slides in most of the way reasonably well but won't go all the way in unless I really force it. When I pull it out, I get that 'pop' sound you get when there is a good air seal. So how tight should the tool be at this point, i.e.before I add glue?
379560

[Drillit]

Hello Tonguetied,
The gouge should go up to the top edge of the ferrule. I guess you measured that.
What I do is drill a pilot hole (say) 1/8th just behind the ferrule and vertical to the hole and through to the hole.
Putting aside whether you need to go a tad further with your tang hole and perhaps scuffing up the tang itself
to give a little more play, I then use two pot epoxy to and simple lightly coat the tang. When you tap in the
chisel up to the ferrule, the pilot hole will allow any excess glue to come out and you then wipe off with a good tight fit.
Usually dries in 24 hours. Hope that helps. Drillit.

[TongueTied]

Hi Drillit, Yes, as mentioned in my post, the tang isn't all the way in and I haven't forced it in yet. The hole is certainly deep enough. Measured it, marked it, measured it again and then drilled and measured it again, just to make sure. I gave it 2mm plus the cone shape of the drill bit head extra, as a place for excess glue. I haven't glued the ferrule on yet either. I was also wondering if it should be seated before or after the tool is fully inserted. It seems the hole is exactly the same diameter and hence the tight fit. This would be fine if air could escape but I'm guessing some of it doesn't and therefore I would have to force it all the way down. Drilling a small hole just behind the ferrule would help but since the tang does down a fair bit further into the handle, there is still plenty of air (which would also include glue at some point) that won't be able to escape. Should I be creating a shallow channel down the inside of the tang hole so excess air and glue can escape all the way from the bottom of the hole?

Yes, I was planning on using a 2 part slow setting epoxy. I don't want to take any chances on that step.

[TongueTied]

I happened to go back home for lunch so I nipped out to the shed to take a few more pictures. As you can see from the attached photos, the hole is about 2mm deeper than the tang is long. I also pushed the tang all the way in which I can do by hand but it is tight. Taking it out again is tough but possible. So, how tight should it be?379563379564379565

[issatree]

Hi Tongue Tied,
You have done everything right as I wood have done it.
I have always only used Aquahere to put my tools in.
Yes, I think it wood be wise to make an escape route for the excess glue, maybe 2 hacksaw cuts just with the blade, but not too deep.
I have always used the Handle outlined in Richard Raffan's book " Turning Wood ".
I think it is a great design.

[Woodturnerjosh]

Great job!

I have only ever glued in tools that fit into the hole easily. If you have to hit the end of the handle with a mallet to get the tools all the way in it's unlikely that you'll need to glue it...and before anyone asks I've never had one come loose. ;)

[nalmo]

If it's such an airtight fit, you can't get the handle all the way down as the air at the bottom of the hole is compressed so much that it prevents the tool going in any further.
If you're glueing with epoxy, it will make it even harder to seat the tool all the way down.

[powderpost]

Enter the tang as far as possible by hand. With a wooden mallet tap the end of the handle firmly until the blade is seated. I have never used glue in a handle and never had a chisel part company with the handle. It the hole in the handle is too big, make another handle.

Jim

[Rod Gilbert]

+1 for the hacksaw cut inside the the hole to let the air out and for the glue to have a way out .
Regards Rod.

[TongueTied]

Okay, tried the hacksaw blade but the only blades I have are about 14mm and the hole is 12mm so, I used a rat tail rasp to create a couple of light grooves inside the hole. When I dry fitted the gouge, it was tight but no air pressure and no 'pop' when I pulled it apart again. So, I epoxied it up and fitted the gouge. There was certainly back pressure while inserting everything and a little squeeze out but after a few seconds holding it in place, the back pressure dissipated. So, I clamped it up and left it overnight. Here is the finished product. Very satisfying to make this even though it is very simple. Thanks for the advice given.
Cheers
379611

[Drillit]

Hello Tonguetied,
I usually put the ferrule on at the same time as I put the tang into the hole. From a design perspective, I use the same style of handle
as Easy Wood Tools. They are longer but in my view give better leverage/torque - whatever. Drillit.