metal inserts into turned pieces

[WaggaSteve]

I would like to experiment with inserts of metal into turned objects. Let me try to be a but clearer: I picture the idea of cutting a piece of wood into 3 vertical pieces, inserting say aluminium sheets between the pieces, gluing then turning say a goblet or candlestick whereby the metal emerges from the wood in hopefully a decorative manner.

Assuming that makes sense, I'd appreciate any suggestions: eg what sort of metal (and there is only Bunning withing 40k of here); is it sufficient to just use wood working glue to hold these together before turning and are there any other traps or suggestions I should be aware of- I dont particularly want to end up like the guy with the bowler hat in James Bond.

On a related item has anyone used what appears to be wood workers glue branded Parfix - its very much cheaper than Aquadhere but I dont know if any good

TIA

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I've worked copper, aluminium & brass on my wood-lathes with woodturning tools. Both individually and laminated into timber or resin.

Most readily available non-ferrous metals should be workable for this, I think.

Glue? I've always epoxied when building up a laminate, after running a 600-800 grit paper over the metal to provide a surface to key. PVA based wood glue doesn't bond to metal very well at all.

If it's a flush metal inlay I use silicone instead, much as one would when insetting a tile or mirror into a platter. This allows the timber to still expand/contract without the inlay falling out. (Which is a problem I've had with a few of my laminated pieces. :doh:)






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[Nubsnstubs]

As the Skew Dancer said, epoxy would be the best. I would sand even courser. I would also use something on the surface to make sure all traces of oil is gone. There is a wash that painters use when painting metals.

I've done both copper and aluminum rod in my turnings. The first one turned out to be a good looking piece, but the second one with the prettiest piece of Pecan I had ever seen exploded on me. On one of the copper rods, 3/8" od, the glue separated and caused it to slide out from centrifugal force?, and caught on the tool. It ripped the turning out of the chuck leaving the tenon and part of the bottom still in the chuck. My guess is the CA I used let go from heat, expansion of the wood from humidity, or other factors(tool presentation? naw! not me:doh:). I still have both pieces and when I get some more Alumilite, I'm going to reattach it and finish using a wood dowel in it's place.

Since that incident, I will not use any more metal in wood unless it's key filings with CA. I'm now making my own wood dowels from local desert trees on my property............... Jerry (in Tucson)

[burraboy]

Parfix is a much cheaper alternative to Aquadhere and for me, works just as well. Don't use it on metals but.

[QC Inspector]

Pen turners often segment with Aluminium, Brass and copper for accents in their pens. Aluminium from pop/beer cans work if you sand off all the paint and coatings. Aluminium flashing and extrusion from the building centers for thicker pieces. Brass shim stock comes in a number of thicknesses. What has been said about epoxy applies but get the longer setting types and not the 5 minute stuff. Don't clamp it really tight and squeeze out the epoxy either. If the metal is thin then normal turning tools work with a little more frequent sharpening needed. Otherwise carbide insert tools are the go to. Very light cuts to prevent heat and the same care if drilling. Don't overlook plastics like guitar pick guard for interesting contrast and effects. Have fun.
Pete

[orraloon]

You could also use soldering rods and wire. Nice and soft. I have used soldering wire to make the dots on the neck of a cigar box guitar. It sands down nicely with the wood to give you silver dots. No reason it would not work in a turning.
Regards
John

[joe greiner]

Pewter is slightly harder than solder, but easy to turn; polishes very nice. Also used for solid parts such as finials.

Cheers,
Joe

[Jonzjob]

I haven't turned aluminium as a part of the wood, so to speak, but I have turned some rod for a goblet. I have posted this before if I remember correctly. The wood is Russian olive, a false olive with wicked spikes on it!

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Alugoblet1.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/Jonzjob/media/Alugoblet1.jpg.html)

As has been said, use light cuts and there shouldn't be any trouble. I finished up with loads of ally wool!!

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Turning%20alu_zpsa46hfo9o.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/Jonzjob/media/Turning%20alu_zpsa46hfo9o.jpg.html)

If it is turned as part of the wood I would be very careful when sanding it or I think that the wood will sand quicker than the metal and leave it slightly proud?

I look forward to seeing your result!!

[WaggaSteve]

My first experience was actually solder, superglued into a groove turned into the edge of a lid for a coffee jar. Went alright

[WaggaSteve]

Jonzjob- Where near Carcassonne? I am just about (week after next) to go to my other house in Trebes, 10 minutes from Carcassonne. Would love to meet up with an English speaking turner(to be honest French speaking as well but my French isn't great). I would really love to have a lathe over there but probably because of my lack of French , haven't found any reasonably priced ones yet.