mike48
10th August 2016, 12:17 PM
Kea Conqueror - Electrical
My ex rental 2009 build Kea Conqueror Camper is based on a 2008 Toyota VDJ78 Troop Carrier with a 4.5 litre V8 diesel.
It is the model with frig in the middle of the rear space just behind the cab.
I think earlier Conquerors had smaller frigs mounted on the side behind the driver.
My vehicle may not be exactly the same as your model (I think Kea called mine “second series”).
Be careful with variations to circuit and fitted items, as these things are subject to change.
Caution – when you are working on “house” DC circuits, remove the mains, then remove the house battery negative connection.
If you are working on house battery “charge’ circuits, then remove the negative connections for both start and house batteries.
The vehicle has 12 V DC and 240V AC connections.
12 Volt DC System
Vehicle Alternator
The standard alternator fitted to this type of vehicle is a Denso 130 amp ruggedised type, so don’t worry about overloading the alternator with charging an extra battery.
My alternator design is an “old fashioned type” with an in built regulator, and charging at a nominal 13.8 – 14.2 volts; mine is actually 14.2 volts output.
It is not a regenerative type (ie for braking) and remains at normal charge volts for low engine RPM.
The main reason for alternator failure appears to be from overheating or sticking brushes, from mud and driving grot, so wash it after a muddy trip.
The alternator is not really repairable at home as special tools are required. You may have to cut the old bearings off with an angle grinder, if you don’t have the special bearing puller tools.
It is best to replace the alternator with an exchange unit.
Sit down before you ask for a price.
Nevertheless, the bearings are drive end 6303-2RS, Ashdown BEX6303 and rear B15-69- 2RS, Ashdown BEX2004.
Brush holder assembly (with new brushes) is Toyota 27370-27060.
Be careful to get the correct type spare.
The alternator is bolted to the engine block with a mix of one short hex head bolt, two long hex head bolts and two special (“lobular” head ie Torx) studs, together with short tubular alignment spacers. The alternator can be replaced in the field.
My E7 Torx head studs sheared their “heads” on removal, and I had to buy new items, but you could just use Hex head bolts of the correct length, as the spacers align the alternator.
Make sure you remove and retain the spacers, if you remove the alternator.
In some cases you may not need to remove the E7 studs, only the nuts.
If you have to remove the alternator front pulley nut, use an impact driver; so easy.
It is very difficult with anything else.
The nut is RH thread.
12 V DC Circuits “House Circuits”
The 12 V DC House requirement is fed from a separate “house” battery fitted in the engine compartment.
Originally this was a “N70ZZ” flooded cell (wet) type of approx. 75-90 AH capacity, and I have upgraded this to a 125 AH AGM type, after modifying and strengthening the Piranha battery carrier (similar to Piranha BT70V8D).
Originally, the battery was fed to a DC distribution panel behind the driver’s seat, via a small 40A thermal circuit breaker on the engine firewall front, and with 10mm2 copper cable.
These small circuit breakers are not robust, and mine fell apart when I attempted to undo the connection nuts, but the original item is widely available.
I replaced my breaker with an inline Narva Maxifuse, 40 Amp fuse, replaced the cable with 13mm2 cable and all crimp connectors.
You can use 16mm 2 cable if available, as it suits standard crimps and crimp tools.
Do not use any fuse type or circuit breaker with less current carrying capability than a Maxifuse or similar large circuit breaker, as thermal concerns may cause early failure, or even overheating and fire.
Do not use tubular glass fuses (ie 3AG type), or “ATC/ATO” type 20mm flat plastic case blade fuses under any circumstances for circuits carrying anything over say 10 amps.
I have seen these ATC fuses and holders partially melt with constant high current, as the units can have relatively high DC resistance, especially those holders with sloppy blade sockets.
The original house battery had a Voltage Switched Relay (VSR) and 10mm2 cable between the vehicle battery positive (alternator output) and the firewall mounted cct breaker.
I originally replaced the VSR, as mine had some years of unknown use, and upgraded the cable to 13mm2 copper using crimp connections.
These VSR units are normally quite reliable; I was being super safe.
Over the years, I have used single and dual diode voltage “alternator sense” mods, and with VSR, to raise the charge volts for a “better charge”.
I have removed the diodes and VSR, and now use a Redarc BCDC 25 Amp LV DC-DC charger; this has inherent VSR characteristics.
This is excellent, and optimises the charging time, especially when travelling from Nat Park to Nat Park without a mains top-up charge.
See photo for placement suggestion, as the engine compartment is cramped.
The placement of AGM battery, and BCDC charger, in the engine compartment is a mite controversial and I did some tests prior to installation.
I drove for two weeks with a remote thermometer sensor tied to the front of the engine compartment firewall for tests, and monitored temperatures under various driving conditions.
When the engine is hot, and when external temperature is 25 degrees or so, and you are driving along, the firewall area temperature seems to stabilise at around 35 to 45 degrees, ie about 15 to 20 degrees hotter.
When you stop with engine hot, air ambient temperature climbs to 50 degrees or so, and falls back to 35 quite quickly, (ie in 2 minutes) as you drive away, or as the engine is started and the fan is working.
The engine compartment components, other than the block and radiator etc, do not heat up during driving as much as you would think..
So, for my situation, I placed the AGM house battery and BCDC charger in the engine compartment, and if I have a long roadside lunch, and especially at the end of each day’s driving, I simply raise the hood for a while, and I stopped worrying about it.
If you do this ventilation repeatedly, and check the temperature of the batteries by hand, you will find that the batteries do not reach a relatively high temperature at all.
I was amazed.
The Redarc BCDC charger is rated up to 80 degrees C. and is derated a little at high temperatures with some current “rollback”.
I probably will get slightly less life from my AGM house battery due to my placement, but I change it at three years anyway, and don’t worry about the reduced life.
A Narva 60 Amp Maxifuse is used as a fusible link between vehicle battery (alternator output) and the Redarc charger, and another 60 Amp Maxifuse is used between the Redarc output and “house” battery.
These fuse values reduce the electrical resistance of holder and fuse to about 0.01 ohm, and allow charge at 25 amps.
I carry a VSR as a spare for temporary use, in case the Redarc BCDC fails “on the road”.
I have added a 0-20 and 0-200 bi-directional (shows + and - amps) ammeter sitting on top of my dash, and the current shunt is directly at the “house battery” positive terminal, so I can see charge and drain currents.
It is left permanently ON, and draws a very low 6mA.
I made the current shunt out of 110mm of 3mm stainless welding rod, and mounted it on a connection block. It is 0.0105 ohm, to allow a 5% back calibration adjustment.
It mates with 0-200mV meters to show plus and minus 0-20 and 0-200 amps switchable.
Rear DC Distribution
Refer to the original wiring circuit.
It shows that the house battery is wired firstly to the panel behind the driver to feed some circuits, and then to the rear switch panel to feed others.
Originally the Waeco CF80 frig was wired from a cct breaker on the rear panel next to the sink. As the frig has top priority in a camper, at least in mine it does, and as the frig has built-in battery DC voltage sense for cut-out, I wanted to have a minimum of voltage drop in the battery cables feeding the frig.
So I have rearranged the cct breakers on the front panel and feed the frig from here instead of from the rear panel, and with the shortest possible (ie cut short) Waeco DC power lead. I utilised a “spare” cct breaker and renamed it ...“Frig”.
The rear switch panel (near sink) feeds all cabin lighting, the DC power outlets, Water Tank Display, and the Water Pump.
I used a spare cct breaker as a switch for a TV amplifier which I installed in the TV antenna cabling.
The earth return for all DC “house” loads is via an earth lug on the vehicle chassis near the panel behind the driver, and this is cabled to another single earth terminal, behind the rear cabinet and accessible by sliding the window directly behind the rear switch panel.
I made my rear cabling more accessible by cutting out a small piece of the rear cabinet to allow the window catch to clear, and to allow increased window sliding distance.
There is no electrical advantage in running a separate heavy earth cable from the house battery to the rear earth lug points, as the vehicle chassis resistance is very low, and currents drawn are relatively low.
The front and rear DC breaker panels are BEP Marine type, and all the breakers are now IEG/AX1 type, with various current trip ratings to suit the various loads.
The original “Solar” and “Charger” breakers on the front panel were 15A Carling push button types.
The rear panel also has a built in analogue DC voltmeter, and I checked mine against a calibrated DVM, as I use it to determine remaining battery capacity for the frig.
I carry a DVM on remote trips for tests and possible faults..
Lighting
I replaced all fixed original 12 V fluoro light fittings (Labcraft and Lumolight) with LED types with remarkable improvement to both light level and power efficiency.
I used strip lights for the rear inside general lighting, mounted in the original positions of the fluoro lights, so as to utilise the original cabling
The front overhead cabin light was replaced with a 48 LED flat panel fitting with inbuilt switch.
I have added four extra LED lamps to the rear.
An external 250mm “awning style” fitting illuminates the cooking area, and draws 300mA.
A small LED “courtesy” type lamp illuminates the rear area as a down light and allows me to read and have an early morning coffee whilst the rest of the camper is in darkness.
Two other “courtesy style” LED lamps illuminate the rear step tread with one lamp, and another is directed onto the pop-top ceiling to allow a low intensity backlight for night time which can be left on almost permanently as the draw is so low (approx 40mA). These lamps are switched together.
I have added two small adjustable strip LED reading lights (with inbuilt switches) to the front pop-top ceiling with Velcro.
All these rear lights are fed from the “Lighting” cct breaker on the rear panel, and via a small distribution strip left loose in the vehicle cavity overhead the rear doors.
Solar Panel and Regulator
My flexible solar panel (actually two panels in series) has a max charge current of approx 2.6 amps at a nominal 12 volts, and is only intended to provide a trickle charge, and to perhaps project a “green” image for rental marketing.
Note that the solar regulator is a series type regulator, and the manufacturer has test methods and other data on their website.
Replacement solar panels were available from Bonnetti Campers, and the regulator can be easily replaced with 6 amp units from electronic stores, using connection diagram provided with the new regulator.
Water Pump and Water Level Sense Panel
Refer to separate “Plumbing” article.
Note that the Shurflo water pump type has now been superseded with (supposedly) an interchangeable type.
Mains 240 V AC
My mains entry is via a rear 15 amp Clipsal fitting, cabled to the MCB/RCD on the panel behind the driver, then to the two GPOs.
Remember to test trip the RCD occasionally.
Mains earth is connected to vehicle earth.
The mains circuit breaker in my vehicle was an NHP mini combined MCB and RCD 16 Amp C curve, with 30mA trip RCD, and switched active and neutral.
Your electrician will understand all that, if replacement is required.
Unless you are licensed, do not alter the mains circuits or components, as you will void certifications etc., and you may make your vehicle unsafe.
Remember that the GPOs are double pole types, and your electrician will be aware of this if replacement is required.
Mains Battery Charger
The original charger is a fully sealed 7 amp three stage charger, and was specified against an original 75-90 AH N70 series type house battery.
There are various manufacturers of this standard type of charger, Alphatron, Victron, Leab etc.
The low charge rating was intended to provide a safe and secure slow overnight charge in a caravan park situation, every two days or so. It was also economical in price.
Even though my present house battery is a 125AH AGM type, I have kept this original charger, and carry a spare, as while it is slow, it works well, has no fan noise, and is super reliable.
It does get a bit warm on max charge.
My charger is a two stage AGM charger, and rests at 6.5 Amps charge current, and falls back to almost zero when the battery is fully charged.
I carry a small jumper lead with two medium size alligator clips to allow parallel connections of the two batteries at the positive terminals, so that the start battery can also get a top up in some rare situations, eg after winching etc.
“Electrical” Items Added to the Original Camper
For interest, I have added the following.
Dash mounted Hema HN7 GPS and rear reversing camera, each fed from two separate dual 12V to 5V USB car converters hard wired to the start battery as follows.
The dash camera USB converter is via a switch (with “ON” LED) from the engine compartment battery connection box connection BATT, and is available at all times.
The GPS USB converter is powered from the ACC connection in the same box.
Icom 400 PRO UHF CB radio powered from the BATT connection via a dash switch with “ON” LED. This and the AM-FM car radio are diode fed to allow “radio” operation with vehicle keys removed, so as to not affect other vehicle circuits by back feed. The “ON” LED allows visual indication if left on accidentally.
The UHF CB antenna is mounted on the driver’s side front top driving light aluminium base, and fed with RG58 coax. It is an RFI mini floppy “end fed” vertical. The coax is run down the rain channel behind the snorkel, into the engine bay, then through the firewall rubber grommet and into the under dash area.
I have used a Narva 72560BL buzzer fed via a dash switch with “ON” LED and via the driver’s “door open” switch, to give an audible alarm when leaving the headlights on. The dash switch disables the buzzer if you really want the lights on and door open. I wrapped my buzzer in electrical tape as it was too loud.
I permanently mounted a small air compressor in an available space in the engine compartment, but this is wired by alligator clips to the start battery.
I mounted a 9500lb winch, and cabled it to the start battery, but with the positive cable lug held off the terminal with a tie, ready for connection when required.
Jump Start Precautions
If you jump start your standard Kea Conqueror vehicle (ie fitted with VSR) from another vehicle, it is probably a good idea to remove the interconnector fuse between the starter battery (alternator output) and the house battery.
This removes any possibility of blowing the interconnector fuse in the time period when the engine is turning over and starting.
The Redarc BCDC does not allow current to “reverse flow” from the house battery under any normal circumstances, so when you are jump starting from another vehicle, removing the fuse is not really required.
I have confirmed this with Redarc Technical Advisory staff.
You can attempt to jump start from your own house battery by jumpering the two battery positive terminals temporarily with a heavy lead.
If you do have start starting difficulties, you should always check your start battery positive terminal connection, and the earth connection. Most “battery problems” are due to connection problems.
Parts and Data caution - watch for variations
For vehicle parts and exploded diagrams, use the Toyota Parts catalogue from TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU (http://www.japan-parts.eu/)
Alternator - Denso 130 Amp, Toyota part 27060-51010, Denso part 104210-5470, (Ashdown DXA550)
Alternator E7 Torx head studs - "Stud Hex Lobular" Toyota 90126-08021, Flange bolt Toyota 91551-80880
Front and rear DC breaker panels - BEP Marine types
IEG/AX1 Circuit Breakers - Airpax type IEG66 or similar, Springers "Series B" $37
Maxi Fuse Holder - Narva In line 60 Amp, Weatherproof, Narva 54414.
Lights strip - Dreamlighting brand Slimline Ultrabright Strip $55.40, Springers etc
Lights drivers cab - LED 12V 48 LEDs white panel $49
Lights awning - Awning 12V 250mm - $39.70, Springers etc
Lights reading - 12 LED swivel 150mm, Dreamlighting PN0013106c white Bias Boating #7267 $19,
Lights rear “courtesy” - 2 LED, Bias Boating #6819, RWB 982 $14.95
Unisolar (prob) PVL31 x2 10 volt 31 watt, 60 watt Kea video says 64W, 2 x 395mmx1410mm
Morningstar Sunguard Solar Regulator , 4.5 Amp max PWM type, Reg volts 14.1V
Water Pump - Shurflo 2088-403-143, 30 PSI, replaced by Shurflo 4009 series $150 Camec and CaravansPlus
Water indicators - BEP Marine RV-TG-2G, two (2) senders RV-TS-5M
Vehicle radio - Toyota 17423, Toyota PZQ60-60040, Fujitsu Ten 122001-9950B151 - no security code
Cigarette DC Outlet – (Good quality) SUTARS Compact Flush Mounted #1218, Springers $9
Dual USB Charger - For GPS PSU and general, Altronics M8625, 4.8A 5V DC Car Dual USB Adaptor or similar
390173390174390175390176390177390178390179390180390181390182390183390184
My ex rental 2009 build Kea Conqueror Camper is based on a 2008 Toyota VDJ78 Troop Carrier with a 4.5 litre V8 diesel.
It is the model with frig in the middle of the rear space just behind the cab.
I think earlier Conquerors had smaller frigs mounted on the side behind the driver.
My vehicle may not be exactly the same as your model (I think Kea called mine “second series”).
Be careful with variations to circuit and fitted items, as these things are subject to change.
Caution – when you are working on “house” DC circuits, remove the mains, then remove the house battery negative connection.
If you are working on house battery “charge’ circuits, then remove the negative connections for both start and house batteries.
The vehicle has 12 V DC and 240V AC connections.
12 Volt DC System
Vehicle Alternator
The standard alternator fitted to this type of vehicle is a Denso 130 amp ruggedised type, so don’t worry about overloading the alternator with charging an extra battery.
My alternator design is an “old fashioned type” with an in built regulator, and charging at a nominal 13.8 – 14.2 volts; mine is actually 14.2 volts output.
It is not a regenerative type (ie for braking) and remains at normal charge volts for low engine RPM.
The main reason for alternator failure appears to be from overheating or sticking brushes, from mud and driving grot, so wash it after a muddy trip.
The alternator is not really repairable at home as special tools are required. You may have to cut the old bearings off with an angle grinder, if you don’t have the special bearing puller tools.
It is best to replace the alternator with an exchange unit.
Sit down before you ask for a price.
Nevertheless, the bearings are drive end 6303-2RS, Ashdown BEX6303 and rear B15-69- 2RS, Ashdown BEX2004.
Brush holder assembly (with new brushes) is Toyota 27370-27060.
Be careful to get the correct type spare.
The alternator is bolted to the engine block with a mix of one short hex head bolt, two long hex head bolts and two special (“lobular” head ie Torx) studs, together with short tubular alignment spacers. The alternator can be replaced in the field.
My E7 Torx head studs sheared their “heads” on removal, and I had to buy new items, but you could just use Hex head bolts of the correct length, as the spacers align the alternator.
Make sure you remove and retain the spacers, if you remove the alternator.
In some cases you may not need to remove the E7 studs, only the nuts.
If you have to remove the alternator front pulley nut, use an impact driver; so easy.
It is very difficult with anything else.
The nut is RH thread.
12 V DC Circuits “House Circuits”
The 12 V DC House requirement is fed from a separate “house” battery fitted in the engine compartment.
Originally this was a “N70ZZ” flooded cell (wet) type of approx. 75-90 AH capacity, and I have upgraded this to a 125 AH AGM type, after modifying and strengthening the Piranha battery carrier (similar to Piranha BT70V8D).
Originally, the battery was fed to a DC distribution panel behind the driver’s seat, via a small 40A thermal circuit breaker on the engine firewall front, and with 10mm2 copper cable.
These small circuit breakers are not robust, and mine fell apart when I attempted to undo the connection nuts, but the original item is widely available.
I replaced my breaker with an inline Narva Maxifuse, 40 Amp fuse, replaced the cable with 13mm2 cable and all crimp connectors.
You can use 16mm 2 cable if available, as it suits standard crimps and crimp tools.
Do not use any fuse type or circuit breaker with less current carrying capability than a Maxifuse or similar large circuit breaker, as thermal concerns may cause early failure, or even overheating and fire.
Do not use tubular glass fuses (ie 3AG type), or “ATC/ATO” type 20mm flat plastic case blade fuses under any circumstances for circuits carrying anything over say 10 amps.
I have seen these ATC fuses and holders partially melt with constant high current, as the units can have relatively high DC resistance, especially those holders with sloppy blade sockets.
The original house battery had a Voltage Switched Relay (VSR) and 10mm2 cable between the vehicle battery positive (alternator output) and the firewall mounted cct breaker.
I originally replaced the VSR, as mine had some years of unknown use, and upgraded the cable to 13mm2 copper using crimp connections.
These VSR units are normally quite reliable; I was being super safe.
Over the years, I have used single and dual diode voltage “alternator sense” mods, and with VSR, to raise the charge volts for a “better charge”.
I have removed the diodes and VSR, and now use a Redarc BCDC 25 Amp LV DC-DC charger; this has inherent VSR characteristics.
This is excellent, and optimises the charging time, especially when travelling from Nat Park to Nat Park without a mains top-up charge.
See photo for placement suggestion, as the engine compartment is cramped.
The placement of AGM battery, and BCDC charger, in the engine compartment is a mite controversial and I did some tests prior to installation.
I drove for two weeks with a remote thermometer sensor tied to the front of the engine compartment firewall for tests, and monitored temperatures under various driving conditions.
When the engine is hot, and when external temperature is 25 degrees or so, and you are driving along, the firewall area temperature seems to stabilise at around 35 to 45 degrees, ie about 15 to 20 degrees hotter.
When you stop with engine hot, air ambient temperature climbs to 50 degrees or so, and falls back to 35 quite quickly, (ie in 2 minutes) as you drive away, or as the engine is started and the fan is working.
The engine compartment components, other than the block and radiator etc, do not heat up during driving as much as you would think..
So, for my situation, I placed the AGM house battery and BCDC charger in the engine compartment, and if I have a long roadside lunch, and especially at the end of each day’s driving, I simply raise the hood for a while, and I stopped worrying about it.
If you do this ventilation repeatedly, and check the temperature of the batteries by hand, you will find that the batteries do not reach a relatively high temperature at all.
I was amazed.
The Redarc BCDC charger is rated up to 80 degrees C. and is derated a little at high temperatures with some current “rollback”.
I probably will get slightly less life from my AGM house battery due to my placement, but I change it at three years anyway, and don’t worry about the reduced life.
A Narva 60 Amp Maxifuse is used as a fusible link between vehicle battery (alternator output) and the Redarc charger, and another 60 Amp Maxifuse is used between the Redarc output and “house” battery.
These fuse values reduce the electrical resistance of holder and fuse to about 0.01 ohm, and allow charge at 25 amps.
I carry a VSR as a spare for temporary use, in case the Redarc BCDC fails “on the road”.
I have added a 0-20 and 0-200 bi-directional (shows + and - amps) ammeter sitting on top of my dash, and the current shunt is directly at the “house battery” positive terminal, so I can see charge and drain currents.
It is left permanently ON, and draws a very low 6mA.
I made the current shunt out of 110mm of 3mm stainless welding rod, and mounted it on a connection block. It is 0.0105 ohm, to allow a 5% back calibration adjustment.
It mates with 0-200mV meters to show plus and minus 0-20 and 0-200 amps switchable.
Rear DC Distribution
Refer to the original wiring circuit.
It shows that the house battery is wired firstly to the panel behind the driver to feed some circuits, and then to the rear switch panel to feed others.
Originally the Waeco CF80 frig was wired from a cct breaker on the rear panel next to the sink. As the frig has top priority in a camper, at least in mine it does, and as the frig has built-in battery DC voltage sense for cut-out, I wanted to have a minimum of voltage drop in the battery cables feeding the frig.
So I have rearranged the cct breakers on the front panel and feed the frig from here instead of from the rear panel, and with the shortest possible (ie cut short) Waeco DC power lead. I utilised a “spare” cct breaker and renamed it ...“Frig”.
The rear switch panel (near sink) feeds all cabin lighting, the DC power outlets, Water Tank Display, and the Water Pump.
I used a spare cct breaker as a switch for a TV amplifier which I installed in the TV antenna cabling.
The earth return for all DC “house” loads is via an earth lug on the vehicle chassis near the panel behind the driver, and this is cabled to another single earth terminal, behind the rear cabinet and accessible by sliding the window directly behind the rear switch panel.
I made my rear cabling more accessible by cutting out a small piece of the rear cabinet to allow the window catch to clear, and to allow increased window sliding distance.
There is no electrical advantage in running a separate heavy earth cable from the house battery to the rear earth lug points, as the vehicle chassis resistance is very low, and currents drawn are relatively low.
The front and rear DC breaker panels are BEP Marine type, and all the breakers are now IEG/AX1 type, with various current trip ratings to suit the various loads.
The original “Solar” and “Charger” breakers on the front panel were 15A Carling push button types.
The rear panel also has a built in analogue DC voltmeter, and I checked mine against a calibrated DVM, as I use it to determine remaining battery capacity for the frig.
I carry a DVM on remote trips for tests and possible faults..
Lighting
I replaced all fixed original 12 V fluoro light fittings (Labcraft and Lumolight) with LED types with remarkable improvement to both light level and power efficiency.
I used strip lights for the rear inside general lighting, mounted in the original positions of the fluoro lights, so as to utilise the original cabling
The front overhead cabin light was replaced with a 48 LED flat panel fitting with inbuilt switch.
I have added four extra LED lamps to the rear.
An external 250mm “awning style” fitting illuminates the cooking area, and draws 300mA.
A small LED “courtesy” type lamp illuminates the rear area as a down light and allows me to read and have an early morning coffee whilst the rest of the camper is in darkness.
Two other “courtesy style” LED lamps illuminate the rear step tread with one lamp, and another is directed onto the pop-top ceiling to allow a low intensity backlight for night time which can be left on almost permanently as the draw is so low (approx 40mA). These lamps are switched together.
I have added two small adjustable strip LED reading lights (with inbuilt switches) to the front pop-top ceiling with Velcro.
All these rear lights are fed from the “Lighting” cct breaker on the rear panel, and via a small distribution strip left loose in the vehicle cavity overhead the rear doors.
Solar Panel and Regulator
My flexible solar panel (actually two panels in series) has a max charge current of approx 2.6 amps at a nominal 12 volts, and is only intended to provide a trickle charge, and to perhaps project a “green” image for rental marketing.
Note that the solar regulator is a series type regulator, and the manufacturer has test methods and other data on their website.
Replacement solar panels were available from Bonnetti Campers, and the regulator can be easily replaced with 6 amp units from electronic stores, using connection diagram provided with the new regulator.
Water Pump and Water Level Sense Panel
Refer to separate “Plumbing” article.
Note that the Shurflo water pump type has now been superseded with (supposedly) an interchangeable type.
Mains 240 V AC
My mains entry is via a rear 15 amp Clipsal fitting, cabled to the MCB/RCD on the panel behind the driver, then to the two GPOs.
Remember to test trip the RCD occasionally.
Mains earth is connected to vehicle earth.
The mains circuit breaker in my vehicle was an NHP mini combined MCB and RCD 16 Amp C curve, with 30mA trip RCD, and switched active and neutral.
Your electrician will understand all that, if replacement is required.
Unless you are licensed, do not alter the mains circuits or components, as you will void certifications etc., and you may make your vehicle unsafe.
Remember that the GPOs are double pole types, and your electrician will be aware of this if replacement is required.
Mains Battery Charger
The original charger is a fully sealed 7 amp three stage charger, and was specified against an original 75-90 AH N70 series type house battery.
There are various manufacturers of this standard type of charger, Alphatron, Victron, Leab etc.
The low charge rating was intended to provide a safe and secure slow overnight charge in a caravan park situation, every two days or so. It was also economical in price.
Even though my present house battery is a 125AH AGM type, I have kept this original charger, and carry a spare, as while it is slow, it works well, has no fan noise, and is super reliable.
It does get a bit warm on max charge.
My charger is a two stage AGM charger, and rests at 6.5 Amps charge current, and falls back to almost zero when the battery is fully charged.
I carry a small jumper lead with two medium size alligator clips to allow parallel connections of the two batteries at the positive terminals, so that the start battery can also get a top up in some rare situations, eg after winching etc.
“Electrical” Items Added to the Original Camper
For interest, I have added the following.
Dash mounted Hema HN7 GPS and rear reversing camera, each fed from two separate dual 12V to 5V USB car converters hard wired to the start battery as follows.
The dash camera USB converter is via a switch (with “ON” LED) from the engine compartment battery connection box connection BATT, and is available at all times.
The GPS USB converter is powered from the ACC connection in the same box.
Icom 400 PRO UHF CB radio powered from the BATT connection via a dash switch with “ON” LED. This and the AM-FM car radio are diode fed to allow “radio” operation with vehicle keys removed, so as to not affect other vehicle circuits by back feed. The “ON” LED allows visual indication if left on accidentally.
The UHF CB antenna is mounted on the driver’s side front top driving light aluminium base, and fed with RG58 coax. It is an RFI mini floppy “end fed” vertical. The coax is run down the rain channel behind the snorkel, into the engine bay, then through the firewall rubber grommet and into the under dash area.
I have used a Narva 72560BL buzzer fed via a dash switch with “ON” LED and via the driver’s “door open” switch, to give an audible alarm when leaving the headlights on. The dash switch disables the buzzer if you really want the lights on and door open. I wrapped my buzzer in electrical tape as it was too loud.
I permanently mounted a small air compressor in an available space in the engine compartment, but this is wired by alligator clips to the start battery.
I mounted a 9500lb winch, and cabled it to the start battery, but with the positive cable lug held off the terminal with a tie, ready for connection when required.
Jump Start Precautions
If you jump start your standard Kea Conqueror vehicle (ie fitted with VSR) from another vehicle, it is probably a good idea to remove the interconnector fuse between the starter battery (alternator output) and the house battery.
This removes any possibility of blowing the interconnector fuse in the time period when the engine is turning over and starting.
The Redarc BCDC does not allow current to “reverse flow” from the house battery under any normal circumstances, so when you are jump starting from another vehicle, removing the fuse is not really required.
I have confirmed this with Redarc Technical Advisory staff.
You can attempt to jump start from your own house battery by jumpering the two battery positive terminals temporarily with a heavy lead.
If you do have start starting difficulties, you should always check your start battery positive terminal connection, and the earth connection. Most “battery problems” are due to connection problems.
Parts and Data caution - watch for variations
For vehicle parts and exploded diagrams, use the Toyota Parts catalogue from TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU (http://www.japan-parts.eu/)
Alternator - Denso 130 Amp, Toyota part 27060-51010, Denso part 104210-5470, (Ashdown DXA550)
Alternator E7 Torx head studs - "Stud Hex Lobular" Toyota 90126-08021, Flange bolt Toyota 91551-80880
Front and rear DC breaker panels - BEP Marine types
IEG/AX1 Circuit Breakers - Airpax type IEG66 or similar, Springers "Series B" $37
Maxi Fuse Holder - Narva In line 60 Amp, Weatherproof, Narva 54414.
Lights strip - Dreamlighting brand Slimline Ultrabright Strip $55.40, Springers etc
Lights drivers cab - LED 12V 48 LEDs white panel $49
Lights awning - Awning 12V 250mm - $39.70, Springers etc
Lights reading - 12 LED swivel 150mm, Dreamlighting PN0013106c white Bias Boating #7267 $19,
Lights rear “courtesy” - 2 LED, Bias Boating #6819, RWB 982 $14.95
Unisolar (prob) PVL31 x2 10 volt 31 watt, 60 watt Kea video says 64W, 2 x 395mmx1410mm
Morningstar Sunguard Solar Regulator , 4.5 Amp max PWM type, Reg volts 14.1V
Water Pump - Shurflo 2088-403-143, 30 PSI, replaced by Shurflo 4009 series $150 Camec and CaravansPlus
Water indicators - BEP Marine RV-TG-2G, two (2) senders RV-TS-5M
Vehicle radio - Toyota 17423, Toyota PZQ60-60040, Fujitsu Ten 122001-9950B151 - no security code
Cigarette DC Outlet – (Good quality) SUTARS Compact Flush Mounted #1218, Springers $9
Dual USB Charger - For GPS PSU and general, Altronics M8625, 4.8A 5V DC Car Dual USB Adaptor or similar
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