Question about Butt Hinge Rebates for Inside Hung Doors

[coffeefro]

When rebating a hinge into a stile so that the hinge does not interrupt the line of the carcase or frame, the rebates are angled or tapered in the carcase and sometimes in the stile. In the stile the rebate tapers from the thickness of the knuckle at the front to the thickness of the leaf at the back, in the carcase the taper is from nothing at the front to the thickness of a leaf at the back. I get why the rebate is tapered in the carcase, so that the rebate supports the hinge and the screws are not subjected to significant side loads. What I don't understand is whether the taper of the rebate in the stile matters or whether a simpler non-tapered rebate would work just as well. It looks like it shouldn't really matter, although there is a certain tidiness about the matching tapers, but is there some good engineering reason for tapering the rebate in the stile?

[Tools]

Why would they be tapered?

Tools

[coffeefro]

In cases where the knuckle is completely inset into the door, I believe it is so that the rebate in the frame will support the leaf, minimising the side load on the screws while not interrupting the line of the frame (zero depth at the front, the thickness of the leaf at the back). My question is about the shape of the rebate in the door. I've found people writing about two different ways of cutting the rebate in the stile, one tapered, one not.

[Enfield Guy]

Tapered rebate for tapered leaf hinges. Most nowadays are not tapered in my experience.

[coffeefro]

Are you saying that its basically an aesthetic decision to keep the leaf embedded in the stile as flush as possible?

[Enfield Guy]

Yep.

[coffeefro]

cool, thank you.