Tormek T7 vs T8

[bpbuilder]

Hi all. Has anyone upgraded their Tormek T7 for a T8? Or compared the two? I'm about to purchase a wetstone grinder but wondering if the T8 is worth the extra $300+ against the run out T7 model. I saw limited comparisons on the net including a video, and I'm perhaps leaning toward the T7 because of price.


As an aside the Triton TWSS10 can be had for half of the T7 price. There are mixed reviews, some that say this machine is not a bad alternative.


I plan on using Tormek jigs even if I was to purchase the Triton and I'm sharpening mainly turning chisels but also twist drills.


Any first hand experience/advice on these machines would be fantastic.

[Jeff Leslie]

BP

I checked the difference out on the net.

Pros - plenty of them including the new bar set up (more slop and easier to use. Improved water trough set up. Build quality though not sure about the HD plastic. Cord position is also good.

Cons - price!

I know it hurts but I got my second Tormek (a T7) on one of those "wheels for life" deals that I could not not part with a grand. The 4 wheels alone are worth more than that.

But don't me mistaken about a T7 being dated The opposition are still miles behind and my old green girl keeps chugging along. One thing you can be sure about Tormek is that they continue to improve, especially with their jigs eg SE-77.

Breath in deep and open your wallet....... Or not. Judgment call entirely up to you.

Jeff

[Jim Carroll]

It would be hard to find a T7 anywhere as most have sold out due to the clearance pricing before the T8 came out.

There is no comparison with the T8 and the others on the market the T8 is worth every penny, better jigs , better wheels and a great duty cycle.

You pay for what you get.

[bpbuilder]

Thanks for the replies. So Tormek it is then.


It would be hard to find a T7 anywhere as most have sold out due to the clearance pricing before the T8 came out.

I've found quite a few kicking about Jim, I guess you just need to know where to hunt for them. Therefore would you personally extend you comment that there is no comparison between the T7 and competitors as well? And given I definitely can get a T7 is the T8 worth the extra hundreds?

[Old Croc]

I plan on using Tormek jigs even if I was to purchase the Triton and I'm sharpening mainly turning chisels but also twist drills.


Any first hand experience/advice on these machines would be fantastic.
Hi BP,
I have an early Tormek and it is great. I just priced the drill sharpening jig at about $450, and for that kind of money I can buy the top of the range Drill Doctor and would get a lot more use out of it. I have a DD500 and the split point function is worth the money.
Rgds,
Crocy

[Mobyturns]

I have owned a T7 for several years now and have enjoyed the ease of use, consistent grind profiles and the woodturners kit jigs. The only jig that I find could do with a redesign is the skew jig, it works well enough but I feel that it could be much better. I also recommend that you purchase the BGM 100 jig so you can do profile changes , bulk material removal, on a bench grinder.

[Jeff Leslie]

Geoff, I think you're right about the skew jigs. Thankfully, the rounded corners on the Hamlet skews make the seating job a little easier. Square skews eg Robert Sorby aren't easy to seat and thus sharpen. The P & Ns are marginally better.

Good suggestion about the BGM100 - almost a must.

I have a good tip (which is hard to explain in words) if you only buy one skew/roughing gouge jig. First, buy two, one for the open seat and roughing gouges. Second, to ensure you get the right angle on the skew setting of what ever degrees, use the front bar and the stone with the jig on its side as intended. Don't worry about the angle shown on the jig - just square the end of the skew up with the stone and set it at that angle. Then set at 55mm protrusion and use the B setting.

Then use the B setting to set the distance of the bar from the stone. (Lazy buggers like me have some permanently set at say 10 degrees, 25, 45 etc), but that's a lot of coin for what really is a simple fix. (And no, I don't think Mr Wraight showed me that trick either!) He did however show mr how to set up the jig for the Sorby skews - press the chisel hard and flat onto the wheel as you tighten the locking screw after you have set the 55mm protrusion.

As Jim has said, you get what you pay for - as far as I know, no-one in the competition has a great stone leveling jig - very much a game breaker. And remember, these things are built to run HD cycles, all day, every day.

[derekcohen]

I have had the Tormek 2000 Supergrind, which is identical to the T7, for several years. It is a great machine, and I do recommend it. However I no longer use it much, since it has largely been replaced with something better!

It must be made clear that I consider the Tormek to be primarily a grinder and not the sharpening system that it is sold as. I grind a hollow on blades, and then proceed to sharpening stones. If this is what you do, then there is no need for the leather wheel.

My preference now is a half-speed (even full speed) 8" dry grinder with CBN wheels (I have 80 and 180 grit wheels). They leave the Tormek in the dust for speed in grinding, and they grind pretty cool. You need to work hard to burn steel. Plus the CBN wheel does not wear and never requires dressing or grading. The Tormek does. The Tormek is messy with water that spills even when careful (I have the T7 reservoir), while the CBN leaves fine steel dust on the table that may be vacuumed.

My grinder is fitted with the BGM100, so it can use all the Tormek jigs. It has the same usability as the Tormek, but works many times faster, and all up costs less than half the T8.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp_html_5c5d41f4.jpg


Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Carroll]

Thanks for the replies. So Tormek it is then.



I've found quite a few kicking about Jim, I guess you just need to know where to hunt for them. Therefore would you personally extend you comment that there is no comparison between the T7 and competitors as well? And given I definitely can get a T7 is the T8 worth the extra hundreds?

If you have found the T7 at the older price go for it, they are never going to be that cheap again. Yes they win hands down over the inferior brands.

[Hors]

Interested as to where T7 can be got at the right price

[justonething]

I bought a T7 at around the end of June this year for $880. I didn't want to go to T8 for the extra cost and the only thing I would want from T8 is the SE-77 jig which can be purchased separately.

[bpbuilder]

I just priced the drill sharpening jig at about $450, and for that kind of money I can buy the top of the range Drill Doctor and would get a lot more use out of it. I have a DD500 and the split point function is worth the money.


I was also looking at the Drill Doctor 750x but for me it's just shy of the required size I want to sharpen up to. And I'll be very happy with the 4-facet point the DBS-22 produces. Both of course much better than the typical stock sharpening of out of the box drills!


Interested as to where T7 can be got at the right price

I don't want to offend anyone but I could suggest having a ring around and even searching the net. I'm sure you'll find what you are after.

You can also save $30-$50 per jig based on "standard pricing". There's quite a huge range of prices out there, for example depending where you live the DBS-22 can be had for under $400.

I took the plunge on a T7!

[Uncle Al]

I attended the Trend Timbers open day last Saturday, and they had a guy demonstrating the T8 using the drill sharpening jig. Trend have a T7 for sale in their showroom, no idea on the price or freight, but easy enough to find out. Trend Timbers - Your One Stop Woodworking Supply Shop (http://www.trendtimbers.com.au/)

Alan...