Best way to store and Season Timber

[Gaza58]

Hi all..... have had the chance to score a slab of Black Wattle that has been freshly milled. I have been looking for some black wattle to make tool handles..saws and chisels mainly. Can anyone give me some pointers as to how to store/treat the timber so that I don't loose too much due to cracking or warping. Also Pointers on using a microwave to fast track the seasoning process. Look forward to your responses.

[rustynail]

The one word answer would be "slow."
The faster it dries the more it plays up. That simple.
Sticker well and paint ends.
As for storage, if you have stickered properly the timber can be left in that format indefinitely.
A level, well ventilated base is most important, well above ground level. White ant and borer protection should be considered also.

[Mobyturns]

Sapwood can be a problem with borers. Hopefully JohnG or others may chip in with best product to use to control them.

[Gaza58]

Thanks Rustynail...........excuse my ignorance as I am an absolute beginner when it comes to this stuff. :rolleyes:.... but can you run me through the Sticker process..... I think I might know but don't want to stuff up some good timber by doing it wrong... I have a covered area that I used to use as a large Dog Kennel years ago that would work pretty well... it is pretty open on the sides but has a good roof over it. I spoke to the guy who cuts the slabs and apparently it came from a dead tree... but I am assuming that probably makes little difference when drying. I believe a year per inch of thickness... is that a good way to work it out .....or best to buy a moisture meter.:?

[Euge]

Sapwood can be a problem with borers. Hopefully JohnG or others may chip in with best product to use to control them.

Pinhole borers love wattle sapwood. I believe it can be controlled using BORAX cheap safe and easily available.
Paint on a solution covering the sapwood. It dries clear.
Other borers are harder to knock out. Most qld woods that are sold interstate used to be treated for borers by this chemical.

Euge

[Gaza58]

Thanks Euge...... Love a cheap way of doing things :2tsup:

[rustynail]

Thanks Rustynail...........excuse my ignorance as I am an absolute beginner when it comes to this stuff. :rolleyes:.... but can you run me through the Sticker process..... I think I might know but don't want to stuff up some good timber by doing it wrong... I have a covered area that I used to use as a large Dog Kennel years ago that would work pretty well... it is pretty open on the sides but has a good roof over it. I spoke to the guy who cuts the slabs and apparently it came from a dead tree... but I am assuming that probably makes little difference when drying. I believe a year per inch of thickness... is that a good way to work it out .....or best to buy a moisture meter.:?
Sounds like a good spot to do a bit of drying.
Stickering material should be dry and of a non staining speci and about 20 x 20mm. Spacing depends on thickness, but as a rule, 450mm to 600mm.
Keep sticker's vertical alignment straight, with first and last sticker as close to the end of the pack ends as possible.
If packs are kept to a width of one metre it makes for easy stacking and volume can be quickly estimated with a length measurement.

[Gaza58]

Thanks Heaps Rustynail..... Will go and have a look at the slab this weekend and see if it is what I am after.:2tsup: